rk chains

[KJ]

Well I went and stripped one of my foot peg mounts. I was just checking to make sure it was tight and it stripped. I was only using a 1/4 drive socket too. So anyone know what size tap and bolt I need to fix this? Jake? you sell these? I have a dual-star center stand and the bolts they provide. It really didn't take much to strip it so be careful. Karl A14

[ATO137528@aol.com]

My KLR sits outside with the same delimma...BOTH bolt holes stripped. I took the bolts to a place here that sells fasteners and got a tap and two new bolts. It is a 3/8" and fit perfectly in the stripped out hole. I got bolts to fit and came home all excited. I twisted the tap into the hole and decided to give it one more turn. It exploded into about 10 pieces! The largest of which is hopelessly secured into the hole and I have no way of getting it out. Drill it out? With what?? the tap is supposed to be harder than regular steel. My metal drill bit just bounces off it. Screw it. I'm gonna weld the MF on. Enough is enough! Lamar A14 "Hanger Queen" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Steven van Twuyver]

Just repaired a stripped footpeg on my Tengai. I replace mine with a matching set so I can't help you out with the size. If you can re-tap it do so. Mine were too far gone and the previous owner tried to bore them too large. For the best job, take a die-grinder or Dremel tool with a mini cut-off disc and cut the face of the foot peg box off. Then grind off the original nuts. Buy new nuts and have them TIG welded on. Then TIG weld the face of the box back on. Cost me $50 to have this done. Then I had to repaint the frame tube. Painting was easy since I painted most of the frame to a readily available color. Getting a match to the stock frame color may be difficult.

>Well I went and stripped one of my foot peg mounts. I was just >checking to >make sure it was tight and it stripped. I was only using a 1/4 drive >socket >too. So anyone know what size tap and bolt I need to fix this? >Jake? you >sell these? I have a dual-star center stand and the bolts they >provide.

It

>really didn't take much to strip it so be careful. >Karl >A14

[Chuck MacKarness]

Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags in place... Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures. Take care. Rev. Chuck :^)>+ --- ATO137528@... wrote:

>My KLR sits outside with the same delimma...BOTH bolt holes stripped. I took >the bolts to a place here that sells fasteners and got a tap and two new >bolts. It is a 3/8" and fit perfectly in the stripped out hole. I got bolts >to fit and came home all excited. > >I twisted the tap into the hole and decided to give it one more turn. It >exploded into about 10 pieces! The largest of which is hopelessly secured >into the hole and I have no way of getting it out. Drill it out? With >what?? the tap is supposed to be harder than regular steel. My metal drill >bit just bounces off it. > >Screw it. I'm gonna weld the MF on. Enough is enough! > >Lamar >A14 "Hanger Queen" > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >Checkout Dual Sport News at >http://www.dualsportnews.com >Be part of the Adventure! > >Visit the KLR650 archives at >http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/ > >Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com >Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com >Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com >List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

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[Chuck MacKarness]

hehehe, I said "...pags..." what the heck are pags? Disclaimer and disclosure of facts begin: ALL READERS PLEASE UNDERSTAND: I really meant "pegs"... Disclaimer and disclosure of facts end: --- Chuck MacKarness wrote:

>Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags in place... >Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures. > >Take care. >Rev. Chuck >:^)>+

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[KJ]

on 7/22/02 12:00 PM, Chuck MacKarness at RevChuck@... wrote:

> Personally I believe welding them in place is your new best method of > re-attachment, I would replace the entire mount point, but not weld the pags > in place... > Another thought, looking at the frame it appears to be a high tension point > for the tubes, so please be careful with the heat concentration on the frame > members there, improper heating could lead to stress fractures. > > Take care. > Rev. Chuck > :^)>+ >

I managed to re-drill and tap the stripped mount for a 10mm bolt. Karl A14

[judjonzz]

My oem chain and rear sprocket just deteriorated suddenly with about 9000 mi. on them. I bought the bike with 4k on it, so I don't know how it was treated, but I have been lubing it about every 2-300 mi. It looked fine when I lubed and inspected it down in Iowa last weekend, but at home 200 mi. later, yhe chain was hanging down and the teeth on the sprocket were worn to needle points, or rounded off. Sprocket Specialists had a DID O-ring chain for five bucks less than the RK, so I ordered the cheaper one.

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote: > > On Mon, 22 Jul 2002, Chris Krok wrote: > > >Someone once posted that the RK was a "bargain" chain, and ones like DID > >are the chain of choice. > > The local squid-pack seems to lean towards RK. They're a bunch of > crotchrocket kids though, so take that with a grain of salt. > > I have no allegance to any particular chain mfr. I get whatever's cheap, > and Chaparral had the best price on DID's, so..... > > >I also found that the stock rear sprocket is pretty tough! > > The OEM sprocket has awesome wear characteristics.