optimize n' synchronize

[FFDennis]

Okay, another entry in the "nothing ever goes easy for me" category. I just got the correct rotor puller bolt from Fred (thanks Fred!) and went out to the garage to pull the magneto rotor to change the doohickey. Well, after a few good tugs, the bolt now just spins....won't go farther in, won't back out....... Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting pretty F'ing pissed here..... FFDennis

[Combat_Tourer]

Spinning? Clockwise and counterclockwise? Sounds like you fractured it. Try prying it out while turning it out. I don't want to worry you about the other possibility, stripped threads on the crank. That seems unlikely though. T

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "FFDennis" wrote: > Okay, another entry in the "nothing ever goes easy for me" category. > > I just got the correct rotor puller bolt from Fred (thanks Fred!) and went > out to the garage to pull the magneto rotor to change the doohickey. > > Well, after a few good tugs, the bolt now just spins....won't go farther in, > won't back out....... > > Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting pretty F'ing pissed here..... > > FFDennis

[ffpmdad]

It felt normal in use, no big crack sound or sudden release of tension, just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it were pushing the rotor off the crank... and the rotor moved a bit off, then stopped, and the puller/pusher bolt now just turns both ways without going farther in, or coming out. I've tried to pry up on the underside of the bolt while turning it, without success. I can see having stripped the rotor or tool, I don't see how I could have stripped the crank. FFDennis

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Combat_Tourer" wrote: > > Spinning? Clockwise and counterclockwise? > > Sounds like you fractured it. Try prying it out while turning it > out. > > I don't want to worry you about the other possibility, stripped > threads on the crank. That seems unlikely though. > > T > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "FFDennis" wrote: > > Okay, another entry in the "nothing ever goes easy for me" category. > > > > I just got the correct rotor puller bolt from Fred (thanks Fred!) > and went > > out to the garage to pull the magneto rotor to change the doohickey. > > > > Well, after a few good tugs, the bolt now just spins....won't go > farther in, > > won't back out....... > > > > Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting pretty F'ing pissed here..... > > > > FFDennis

[ffpmdad]

It felt normal in use, no big crack sound or sudden release of tension, just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it were pushing the rotor off the crank... and the rotor moved a bit off, then stopped, and the puller/pusher bolt now just turns both ways without going farther in, or coming out. I've tried to pry up on the underside of the bolt while turning it, without success. I can see having stripped the rotor or tool, I don't see how I could have stripped the crank. FFDennis

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Combat_Tourer" wrote: > > Spinning? Clockwise and counterclockwise? > > Sounds like you fractured it. Try prying it out while turning it > out. > > I don't want to worry you about the other possibility, stripped > threads on the crank. That seems unlikely though. > > T > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "FFDennis" wrote: > > Okay, another entry in the "nothing ever goes easy for me" category. > > > > I just got the correct rotor puller bolt from Fred (thanks Fred!) > and went > > out to the garage to pull the magneto rotor to change the doohickey. > > > > Well, after a few good tugs, the bolt now just spins....won't go > farther in, > > won't back out....... > > > > Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting pretty F'ing pissed here..... > > > > FFDennis

[RM]

On Fri, 19 Jul 2002, ffpmdad wrote:

>It felt normal in use, no big crack sound or sudden release of >tension, just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it >were pushing the rotor off the crank...

That's a big ol bolt with an awful lot of thread engagement. You'd hafta reef on it pretty damn hard to strip out any threads. As for the crank, the puller pushes against the crank nose - it doesn't thread into it. So you can relax. As for what happened... It beats the hell outta me.

[Tengai650]

At 11:21 AM +0000 7/19/2002, ffpmdad wrote:

>It (was) just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it >were pushing the rotor off the crank... and the rotor moved a bit >off, then stopped,

If the rotor exhibited ANY axial movement at all, it should be free from the crank now. I've never seen a rotor only "halfway on" a crank of a KLR.

>I can see having stripped the rotor or tool, I don't see how I could >have stripped the crank.

Nothing's threaded into the crank during the rotor pulling procedure. Mark B2 A2 A3

[Combat_Tourer]

Well, I am an idiot! I need to start reading these posts more carefully. When I read it at 0'dark thirty this morning I thought you were talking about the retaining "bolt", and not the puller. D'oh!! From what you are describing, the rotor is now 'FREE' from the crank. I bet you the thing that is holding you up now is the woodruf key. It tends to slide forward when the rotor is pulled. It may have tilted up and caught onto the groove in the rotor. Grab the rotor and the starting gear behind it and wiggle it off the crank. Do NOT bang on the rotor! The puller is attached to the rotor so, it will come away with it. Look for the woodruf key to fall either on the floor or into the motor, or even stick to the rotor/gear assembly. When I pulled mine, I searched all over for that damned key. It was nowhere to be found. I finally pulled the starting gear away from the rotor and there it was, resting in a recess. You will need this key to line the rotor up properly on install. Todd (Springfield, VA)

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "ffpmdad" wrote: > > It felt normal in use, no big crack sound or sudden release of > tension, just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it > were pushing the rotor off the crank... and the rotor moved a bit > off, then stopped, and the puller/pusher bolt now just turns both > ways without going farther in, or coming out. > > I've tried to pry up on the underside of the bolt while turning it, > without success. > > I can see having stripped the rotor or tool, I don't see how I could > have stripped the crank. > > FFDennis > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Combat_Tourer" wrote: > > > > Spinning? Clockwise and counterclockwise? > > > > Sounds like you fractured it. Try prying it out while turning it > > out. > > > > I don't want to worry you about the other possibility, stripped > > threads on the crank. That seems unlikely though. > > > > T > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "FFDennis" wrote: > > > Okay, another entry in the "nothing ever goes easy for me" > category. > > > > > > I just got the correct rotor puller bolt from Fred (thanks Fred!) > > and went > > > out to the garage to pull the magneto rotor to change the > doohickey. > > > > > > Well, after a few good tugs, the bolt now just spins....won't go > > farther in, > > > won't back out....... > > > > > > Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting pretty F'ing pissed here..... > > > > > > FFDennis

[Fred Hink]

I have heard from several other "Puller Buyers" that the puller that they purchased elsewhere didn't fit. There has been a problem with the advertising from different sources listing the KLR puller as supposed to be a 20 x 1.5 thread. This information is incorrect and I have gone through this and do stock and sell the correct size of pullers for the KLR650. I have never heard of anyone stripping threads on the rotor or the rotor puller before. This is a fluke and I will be interested in finding out what caused your problem. When you get your rotor puller out, send it to me and I will find out what caused your problem. Usually when a rotor breaks free from the crankshaft, it comes loose with a "pop". If "It (was) just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier", that sounds like the threads pulling loose on either the rotor or the puller or both. Did you have anything between the puller and the rotor? How far did the puller thread into the rotor? The puller should rest on the end of the crankshaft. Is there any chance that your rotor was loose at the bolt already? Does your rotor have any "play" from the crankshaft? I would suggest those that are having problems pulling the rotor to tighten the puller and then give the end of the puller a tap with a hammer to break free the taper on the rotor. If that doesn't work, repeat again till it does. Let us all know what you find out. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://www.canyonlandsmotorclassic.com

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tengai650" To: "ffpmdad" Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 5:49 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: stripped rotor or tool > At 11:21 AM +0000 7/19/2002, ffpmdad wrote: > >It (was) just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier, as if it > >were pushing the rotor off the crank... and the rotor moved a bit > >off, then stopped, > > If the rotor exhibited ANY axial movement at all, it should be free > from the crank now. I've never seen a rotor only "halfway on" a crank > of a KLR. > > >I can see having stripped the rotor or tool, I don't see how I could > >have stripped the crank. > > Nothing's threaded into the crank during the rotor pulling procedure. > Mark > B2 > A2 > A3 >

[Combat_Tourer]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Fred Hink" wrote: > > I would suggest those that are having problems pulling the rotor to tighten > the puller and then give the end of the puller a tap with a hammer to break > free the taper on the rotor. If that doesn't work, repeat again till it > does. > > Let us all know what you find out. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > http://www.canyonlandsmotorclassic.com > I don't think tapping on or around the rotor is a good idea. I understand you can literally tap/bang the magnetic field right out of the rotor by doing this. Like you said, never heard of the threads stripping here. I think his rotor is loose already. Just needs to finish up by pulling it away. Todd (Springfield, VA)

[FFDennis]

> I > have never heard of anyone stripping threads on the rotor or the rotor > puller before. This is a fluke and I will be interested in finding out

what

> caused your problem. When you get your rotor puller out, send it to me

and

> I will find out what caused your problem. > > Usually when a rotor breaks free from the crankshaft, it comes loose with

a

> "pop". If "It (was) just a nice snug push, then it got a little easier", > that sounds like the threads pulling loose on either the rotor or the

puller

> or both. Did you have anything between the puller and the rotor? How far > did the puller thread into the rotor? The puller should rest on the end

of

> the crankshaft. Is there any chance that your rotor was loose at the bolt > already? Does your rotor have any "play" from the crankshaft? > > I would suggest those that are having problems pulling the rotor to

tighten

> the puller and then give the end of the puller a tap with a hammer to

break

> free the taper on the rotor. If that doesn't work, repeat again till it > does. > > Let us all know what you find out. > > Fred

Fred and All, Okay, there is nothing between the puller and the crankshaft. The puller threaded in as it should, with a lot of engagement until it contacted the crank. I then put the rotor-holding wrench on the rotor, put a socket on the tool, and about about a 18" handle on the socket. It was quite stiff at first, then it turned slowly. It turned in the same manner about 1.5-2 complete revolutions. It then became much easier. I thought I detected axial movement, but I could be wrong I suppose. Now, when grasped on it's sides, the rotor still feels solid to the crank. The puller has a slight amount of play between it and the rotor. The puller can now be spun in either direction with my fingers only, but does not go farther in or come out. If you look at where the threads enter the rotor and turn it, it gives you that "barber pole" effect, if you know what I mean. The tool is now stuck and not leaving the building, but turns freely. My only thought is that now I need to rig up a three jaw puller on the backside of the rotor, and mount a slide hammer to it. I'm open to any other suggestions. FFDennis