more on go fast juice

[esteban80127]

Wayne, Boy am I glad that did not happen to me when my kill switch suffered the same fate. I was 50 miles up the Poudre Canyon from Ted's Place and then up some real real rough, never traveled, totally washed out 4wd roads in the deep woods on a weekday. This is a very lonely area of northern Colorado near the Wyoming border. If I had fried my electronics up there I may still be there. I found my old broken hot-wired switch, so I'll tell you (after the fact) what I did: Removed the central phillip screw thus exposing the back of the switch and the wires to the terminals. Next I looped a 1/2" piece of bare approx 18 gauge galvanized baling wire behind the orange and brown wires in the switch up near their bare soldered ends so that it connected the two after a little careful work with pliers. (I think I tried connecting the various options - quickly - until I arrived at the right combo by observing the dash lights.) Or maybe I figured it out by looking at the broken components. I do not remember. (But I did not fry anything on my bike.) That created the connection that the "kill switch" needs as when intact to make the bike run. I guess you could also call it a "Run Switch". I ran the bike like for 6 months with no operating kill- switch before fixing. Sorry you had the bad luck, I was unaware of the possible consequences of doing it wrong. Anybody who has not cured this bad design by grinding smaller and to shape the kill-switch excess protrusion runs the risk of this happening to them. It could snag on a coat, branch, tank bag, hand or just about anything for that matter. I highly recommend that you do it, and I think that Wayne would recommend it too. See my post - up thread, on what I did to fix this poor design. Regards, Steve G

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Wayne Adamson" wrote: > I fucked it up bigtime Steve. $400.00 for a CDI unit,$72.00 for a new kill > switch,plus 14% tax,plus shipping.Now remember this is in Canadian dollars. > I was lucky that Burnaby Kawasaki was willing to take the parts off of a > bike on the show room floor or I would have had to wait a couple of weeks to > pay these outrages prices? Anyway whats done is done,I'm back on the > road,but it was a very expensive mistake.;l > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Green" > To: "Wayne Adamson" > Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 4:56 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: Kill Switch > > > > Wayne, > > > > I do not know what you may have overheated (fried). > > You must look at the 4 terminals (if I remember right) and figure out how > it > > works before hot wiring. Hard for me to give any better of an explanation. > > Do you have the popped-out parts? That makes it easier to figure out. If > you > > still have not got it fixed let me know and I will did around in the > garage > > to maybe find my old switch and how I hot wired it. I may have > > tossed it. > > > > Steve > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Wayne Adamson" > > To: "DSN" ; "esteban80127" > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 12:37 AM > > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: Kill Switch > > > > > > > Steve,I tried to hot wire the switch and I F-up something,but I'm not > sure > > > what?I crossed the brown wire with the orange wire, with the white and > > black > > > wire,turned on the key,and fried something? It made a popping sound,and > > > started to smell.I shut it off and then connected the orange and brown > > > alone,witch I think are the right ones to hot wire? Now the starter > > > works,but I have to figure out what I fried? I have the tank off,and the > > > fairing off,but it was getting to late to continue.I have both > manuals,but > > I > > > am not very good at reading electrical diagrams.If anyone can offer some > > > advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you .............Wayne > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "esteban80127" > > > To: > > > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 11:13 PM > > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Kill Switch > > > > > > > > > > I had this exact thing happen when a ring on my Wolfman caught the > > > > kill switch and tore it out in the middle of nowhere on a trail 60 > > > > miles form anywhere alone on a week day in North central Colorado. I > > > > hot wired the switch to get the bike to start and used it that way > > > > for 6 months. > > > > > > > > Now I have a $65 new switch on which I have shortened & shaped the > > > > red thumb lever. I cut it on an angle so this cannot happen again. I > > > > used a Foredom flexi-shaft grinder...like a dremel. > > > > > > > > A very worthwhile mod. > > > > > > > > Steve > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Wayne Adamson" wrote: > > > > > I was out riding in the bush to-day and somehow the kill switch > > > > fell off my > > > > > bike. Just the red part,it must have caught on my wolfman tankbag? > > > > Anybody > > > > > ever have this happen? I am going to try and take it apart and > > > > cross the > > > > > wires so my bike will start.When I shut it off,it wouldn't start,I > > > > mean the > > > > > starter would not engage.Totally dead. Any > > > > suggestions?...........Wayne

[Harry C Seifert, Jr]

Hey Joe, The Californicatin' smog cops won't allow us to directly fill our tanks from unapproved sources....I have four or five independent service stations and other businesses within 30 miles if the house, so if I'm going that way, I'll put several 5 gal gas tanks in the LC and bring it home to mix with fresh premium. Keeps me going for at least 10 days to two weeks. If I need gas on the road, I'll put premium in the tank and fill the tank with the fuel mix when I get home. Besides, the racing stuff smells just like the gas mom used to put in her DeSoto. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]