a7 "almost starts" condition--v.timing???

DSN_KLR650
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halvor.dan.jon@juno.com
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2000 12:41 pm

tune up

Post by halvor.dan.jon@juno.com » Wed Oct 18, 2000 3:20 pm

I noticed two things after my 500 mile tune up was complete and I am wondering about what you think; The oil level was filled to the very top or even a hair over the line when viewing the level oil sight. I was holding the bike as level as possible. Is this ok? When the clutch lever is all the way out, there is naturally a little play before bringing the cable taunt as you draw it in. Then as you draw the lever in, I would say not more than 1/5 of the way, the clutch disengages. Isnt this set a bit early to disengage? Thank you for your input Dan

Jaime Pertuz
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Aug 16, 2000 10:39 pm

a7 "almost starts" condition--v.timing???

Post by Jaime Pertuz » Thu Oct 19, 2000 1:31 am

Hello any experienced wrenches out there, I got a 93 KLR that almost starts. That is, if I keep the starter turning the engine, there is combustion. It produces exhaust, and I can hear and feel the engine also "helping" the starter, but it's just not quite enough. If I let go of the starter, it turns out that even though it felt like the engine was running, it actually was not. My question is, given the recent work I've done on it, can or does this condition sound like it might be due to incorrect valve timing?? How much can the arrows on the cam sprockets be out of line?? I mean, I know if my valve timing is off, it's slight--no where near the piston slamming the valves or anything like that. I was wondering if because I decarbonized the head, the valve seats and all, and adjusted the clearance, but re-used the slightly stretched cam chain, if this could push the timing just enough out of wack. Could the valve timing, assuming it was incorrect, but not so bad as to be causing them to collide with the piston, still keep the engine from starting? How much of a range of tolearance is there between perfect valve timing and the point before the engine will now longer run. Can this be the cause of my "almost start" situation?? Or could this be caused by a small imperfection in valve face to seat sealing?? Or lastly, could this be a low compression situation caused by insufficiently torqued cylinder head studs?? Cause when I was putting the head back on, I could only get the studs as close as about 8ft.lbs away from spec. without them just spinning and not tightening anymore. Anyone got any suggestions??? I've worked so hard on a bunch of stuff, and put so much time and money into this thing that I'm pulling my hair out, know what I mean? I'm sure you've been there in your day. Thanks for any help, Jaime. St. Paul, MN

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