light bulbs and sprokets?

DSN_KLR650
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Mike Awesome
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 8:41 am

bashing the moose cont

Post by Mike Awesome » Sun Aug 06, 2000 1:20 pm

My apologies for posting my original twice. I removed the drain plug by drilling a hole through the head of the plug , applying a little pressure and the plug jumped back on the threads. Only to find: 1. missing metal washer on plug ( thanks St Pete Kawasaki) 2. The small circular area , where drain plug washer would seat, is now half circle as part has cracked and broken off. I placed all the blame on Moose wrongly. The dealership most definitely never replaced the washer and probably (99% sure) over torqued the drain plug ( with washer missing). Maybe causing all my woes. I will insert a new drain plug ( with washer) wrapped with teflon tape hoping for no leaks. Again sorry for the earlier repost.

Mike Awesome
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2000 8:41 am

bashing the moose cont

Post by Mike Awesome » Sun Aug 06, 2000 3:54 pm

> . Only to find: > 1. missing metal washer on plug ( thanks St Pete Kawasaki) > 2. The small circular area , where drain plug washer would seat, is > now half circle as part has cracked and broken off.
and last and worst 3. hairline cracks in case along hole for drain plug (woe is me)
> > I placed all the blame on Moose wrongly. The dealership most > definitely never replaced the washer and probably (99% sure) over > torqued the drain plug ( with washer missing). Maybe causing all my > woes.
remember this all stems from my ill-fated trip to the dealership to have the valves checked by qualified??? mechanics. Less and less likely the bash plate was the weak link here. Mike KLRless for now Awesome A1klr650 down but not forgotten p.s. anyone know a good lawyer.. good laywer yea like a qualified mechanic what an oxymoron

Karl Raupp
Posts: 216
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2000 10:13 am

bashing the moose cont

Post by Karl Raupp » Sun Aug 06, 2000 9:51 pm

>My apologies for posting my original twice. >I removed the drain plug by drilling a hole through the head of the >plug , applying a little pressure and the plug jumped back on the >threads.
I find a good way to get the threads to 'jump back' are to take a flathead screwdriver and jam it between the bolt head and the other surface and then trying to undo the bolt. Sometimes you need to twist the screwdriver as if you are trying to pry it apart. Usually works for me.
>The dealership most >definitely never replaced the washer and probably (99% sure) over >torqued the drain plug ( with washer missing).
Wow. Remind us again never to visit that dealership. Good luck with your case! TTYL Karl ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

kcorriga@together.net
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2000 7:48 am

light bulbs and sprokets?

Post by kcorriga@together.net » Sun Aug 06, 2000 9:56 pm

Hi folks. I have questions on a couple of topics that I'm sure some of you have already investigated. 1) I recently have had a couple of near misses with some of the nearsighted motorists of the 4 wheeled variety. I have decided that when using the 'Big Green F#%*er' to get to and from work I must be more visible if I stand a chance of distracting them from their cell phones and palm pilots for just an instant while I am in there path. I have seen H4 headlamp bulbs offered much stronger than the OEM 60/ 55w. Other options are 100/55w, 100/80w, and 130/90w. These are also offered in "All Weather', Diamond Blue', 'White', 'Xenon', 'HIB Blue', 'Yellow', and 'Gold with an additional ion gas tube around the filament bulb'. What is the highest power bulb I can safely use and what color is the most visible in the day time but still good at night? I saw a rice rocket coming at me the other day with the most amazing yellow or gold headlamp I've ever seen. Does any one know what these are? 2) I have also found that the OEM gearing is to high to be comfortable on the log skidder roads, cow paths and snowmobile trails that I ride on. This is definitely not an observed trials mount. I seem to have mucho excess road range a would give up anything over 60 mph at a reasonable rpm to have 3 gears to work with in the crud instead of just 1. I have heard many of you talk about simply going down to a 14 tooth on the front. Did that work well for you or should I also change the rear spocket up to ??? teeth to do it right and take up excess chain slack? Thanks in advance for the help. K.C. Y2KLR650 'Big Green F#%*er' 73 Yami RT3 360 'Little Thumper'

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