Re: Finger Light Push Rods

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steveneal351
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:44 am

Finger Light Push Rods

Post by steveneal351 » Tue Jan 19, 2016 11:19 pm

I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?


Steve
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sjb0459
Posts: 548
Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:36 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by sjb0459 » Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:34 am

Are you sure on that Steve?  I have Normans's brain up and the holes measure approximately 7mm.  I've used 6mm alumium tube for the finger light rods.
Steve
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sjb0459
Posts: 548
Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:36 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by sjb0459 » Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:50 am

Sorry Steve, complete, completely misread your question.  For the push gods I used 1/8" stainless steel rod, fits perfectly.
Steve
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Steve Neal
Posts: 84
Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:08 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by Steve Neal » Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:09 am

Thanks Steve,
Did you file the ends of the push rods rounded and smooth?
Steve

On Wednesday, 20 January 2016, 18:50, "stevejbrown007@gmail.com [B9Builders]" wrote:


  Sorry Steve, complete, completely misread your question.  For the push gods I used 1/8" stainless steel rod, fits perfectly.
Steve

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dhuber0262
Posts: 164
Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:08 am

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by dhuber0262 » Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:38 am

Steve,

Go to any hobby shop and get styrene rods. They are easy to cut. Round the top with sand paper put a little grease on the cam and you're good to go.

David H

---- "steveneal351@yahoo.com.au [B9Builders]" wrote:
> I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?
>
>
> Steve
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Gregorio Padin
Posts: 408
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:09 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by Gregorio Padin » Wed Jan 20, 2016 6:38 am

Good morning!
Sorry for being off the grid but I should be back in a few weeks.
I did want to share the following, an empty pen if taken apart has where the ink goes in. I took a Pilot pen and cut it but not knowing the lenght needed, I let it fall through the hole to hit bottom an cut it flat to the surface.
Considering the force, it should never buckle and it is hallow in case you ever need that forr anything such as to add weight or reinforce. David aka Toblueis :) recommened a LED and a 3mm fits fine if the lower lip is trimmed. It provides a nice curve and polished surface for contact.
If you place a LED, remember the straw is hollow and you could try to power the LED Pimp my B9 lol. 
Metal rods could be ok but it is stronger than the cam and the material of the finger so over time it should wear or show sign.
I am waiting to get my "fingers" to test it out. If you look at the solution presented it is a puece of engineering that is today cheap or free and we recycle. :)
Enjoy!

On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 12:19 AM, steveneal351@yahoo.com.au [B9Builders] wrote:  

I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?


Steve
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sjb0459
Posts: 548
Joined: Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:36 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by sjb0459 » Wed Jan 20, 2016 12:47 pm

I have just rounded the ends slightly so there is no sharp edges.
Steve
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Craig Reinbrecht
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 8:44 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by Craig Reinbrecht » Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:36 pm

Attachments : For the cam push rods, Mike Joyce used 1/8" x 1 1/8" Stainless Steel dowel pins that have slightly beveled ends. McMaser-Carr Part# 90145A882. These will work with the Norman Brain Cups and cams. Delrin, which the cams are made from, is a very dense and sturdy material. It has a naturally slick surface which makes it excellent for moving parts such as this. I am certain Mike felt that wear would not be an issue with the Stainless Steel push rods. I do think rounding the ends and polishing to a very smooth finish would be a good idea.

[img]cid:7.1.0.9.2.20160120202638.0a26fa58@bex.net.0[/img]

For my own robot I used 1/4" Delrin rod, and rounded over the cam ends. Delrin is very dense, and naturally "slippery" material which makes it a great solution for moving parts like this. My Brain Cup is an early version with 1/4" push rod holes (as apposed to Norman's 1/8"). My cam is made of resin with embedded graphite.

[img]cid:7.1.0.9.2.20160120202638.0a26fa58@bex.net.1[/img]   [img]cid:7.1.0.9.2.20160120202638.0a26fa58@bex.net.2[/img]

Craig



At 06:38 AM 1/20/2016, you wrote:
 

Good morning!

Sorry for being off the grid but I should be back in a few weeks.

I did want to share the following, an empty pen if taken apart has where the ink goes in. I took a Pilot pen and cut it but not knowing the lenght needed, I let it fall through the hole to hit bottom an cut it flat to the surface.

Considering the force, it should never buckle and it is hallow in case you ever need that forr anything such as to add weight or reinforce. David aka Toblueis :) recommened a LED and a 3mm fits fine if the lower lip is trimmed. It provides a nice curve and polished surface for contact.

If you place a LED, remember the straw is hollow and you could try to power the LED Pimp my B9 lol.

Metal rods could be ok but it is stronger than the cam and the material of the finger so over time it should wear or show sign.

I am waiting to get my "fingers" to test it out. If you look at the solution presented it is a puece of engineering that is today cheap or free and we recycle. :)

Enjoy!


 

I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?


Steve
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Steve Neal
Posts: 84
Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 10:08 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by Steve Neal » Fri Jan 22, 2016 7:01 pm

Thanks for all the advise guys, oh and sorry for the late reply
Steve

On Thursday, 21 January 2016, 12:37, "Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders]" wrote:


  For the cam push rods, Mike Joyce used 1/8" x 1 1/8" Stainless Steel dowel pins that have slightly beveled ends. McMaser-Carr Part# 90145A882. These will work with the Norman Brain Cups and cams. Delrin, which the cams are made from, is a very dense and sturdy material. It has a naturally slick surface which makes it excellent for moving parts such as this. I am certain Mike felt that wear would not be an issue with the Stainless Steel push rods. I do think rounding the ends and polishing to a very smooth finish would be a good idea.



For my own robot I used 1/4" Delrin rod, and rounded over the cam ends. Delrin is very dense, and naturally "slippery" material which makes it a great solution for moving parts like this. My Brain Cup is an early version with 1/4" push rod holes (as apposed to Norman's 1/8"). My cam is made of resin with embedded graphite.

 

Craig



At 06:38 AM 1/20/2016, you wrote:
 

Good morning!

Sorry for being off the grid but I should be back in a few weeks.

I did want to share the following, an empty pen if taken apart has where the ink goes in. I took a Pilot pen and cut it but not knowing the lenght needed, I let it fall through the hole to hit bottom an cut it flat to the surface.

Considering the force, it should never buckle and it is hallow in case you ever need that forr anything such as to add weight or reinforce. David aka Toblueis :) recommened a LED and a 3mm fits fine if the lower lip is trimmed. It provides a nice curve and polished surface for contact.

If you place a LED, remember the straw is hollow and you could try to power the LED Pimp my B9 lol.

Metal rods could be ok but it is stronger than the cam and the material of the finger so over time it should wear or show sign.

I am waiting to get my "fingers" to test it out. If you look at the solution presented it is a puece of engineering that is today cheap or free and we recycle. :)

Enjoy!


 

I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?


Steve
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Gregorio Padin
Posts: 408
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:09 pm

Re: Finger Light Push Rods

Post by Gregorio Padin » Sat Jan 23, 2016 6:34 am

No worries on my end :) a reply is better than no replie :).
Perhaps you can share pictures  and / or video of the assembly of the light fingers. Once I get my items I plan on doing one and sharing. As long as I dont forget lol...

On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 8:01 PM, Steve Neal steveneal351@yahoo.com.au [B9Builders] wrote:  
Thanks for all the advise guys, oh and sorry for the late reply
Steve

On Thursday, 21 January 2016, 12:37, "Craig Reinbrecht craig@bex.net [B9Builders]" wrote:


  For the cam push rods, Mike Joyce used 1/8" x 1 1/8" Stainless Steel dowel pins that have slightly beveled ends. McMaser-Carr Part# 90145A882. These will work with the Norman Brain Cups and cams. Delrin, which the cams are made from, is a very dense and sturdy material. It has a naturally slick surface which makes it excellent for moving parts such as this. I am certain Mike felt that wear would not be an issue with the Stainless Steel push rods. I do think rounding the ends and polishing to a very smooth finish would be a good idea.



For my own robot I used 1/4" Delrin rod, and rounded over the cam ends. Delrin is very dense, and naturally "slippery" material which makes it a great solution for moving parts like this. My Brain Cup is an early version with 1/4" push rod holes (as apposed to Norman's 1/8"). My cam is made of resin with embedded graphite.

 

Craig



At 06:38 AM 1/20/2016, you wrote:
 

Good morning!

Sorry for being off the grid but I should be back in a few weeks.

I did want to share the following, an empty pen if taken apart has where the ink goes in. I took a Pilot pen and cut it but not knowing the lenght needed, I let it fall through the hole to hit bottom an cut it flat to the surface.

Considering the force, it should never buckle and it is hallow in case you ever need that forr anything such as to add weight or reinforce. David aka Toblueis :) recommened a LED and a 3mm fits fine if the lower lip is trimmed. It provides a nice curve and polished surface for contact.

If you place a LED, remember the straw is hollow and you could try to power the LED Pimp my B9 lol.

Metal rods could be ok but it is stronger than the cam and the material of the finger so over time it should wear or show sign.

I am waiting to get my "fingers" to test it out. If you look at the solution presented it is a puece of engineering that is today cheap or free and we recycle. :)

Enjoy!


 

I was wondering if someone can suggest what to use for the finger light push rods. I have a Norm S. brain cup and cam. The push rod holes are 3mm. Also what is done to prevent damade to the cam contact surface?


Steve
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