Re: Paint Prep for Steel Treads

Jim Easley · Post by **Jim Easley** » Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:45 pm

Might try powder coating. It is pretty much impervious to everything and works well with steel. Abrasive blasting will take care of rust and contaminants and preps the material for good adhesion of most materials. From: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 02, 2015 8:27 PM To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Subject: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads
I'm finding so many different methods of cleaning new steel in preparation for paint. I got my tread sections from Eric, so those who have the same ones can perhaps set me straight as to what to do to remove the rust & oily substance to obtain a showroom finish with the paint. I've read about acetone for cleaning, which I really don't want to use but will if it's the best way to go. Also curious about the screw holes and how they will hold up because once you screw something into the tapped holes, they'll then be un-coated & possibly begin to allow oxygen underneath the painted areas around them. That is unavoidable, I suppose but I just want a finish that will last & not be prone to any rust over many, many years. I've seen mention of conversion coatings that somehow changes ferrous metals for better protection. Anyway, those with more knowledge than myself, what are your suggestions? Thanks. Ken.

dmw0dmw · Post by **dmw0dmw** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:53 am

Great question, I'll be interested to see the answers.

I like the idea of using acetone for cleaning. Why don't you like this idea?

I just sanded my metal down and used a self etching primer first
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000GTIRAU/spiderpress

But I never heard of conversion coating before , so how much could I really know.

Dennis

From: "acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders]"
To: "B9Builders"
Sent: Monday, November 2, 2015 11:27:14 PM
Subject: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads

I'm finding so many different methods of cleaning new steel in preparation for paint. I got my tread sections from Eric, so those who have the same ones can perhaps set me straight as to what to do to remove the rust & oily substance to obtain a showroom finish with the paint. I've read about acetone for cleaning, which I really don't want to use but will if it's the best way to go. Also curious about the screw holes and how they will hold up because once you screw something into the tapped holes, they'll then be un-coated & possibly begin to allow oxygen underneath the painted areas around them. That is unavoidable, I suppose but I just want a finish that will last & not be prone to any rust over many, many years. I've seen mention of conversion coatings that somehow changes ferrous metals for better protection. Anyway, those with more knowledge than myself, what are your suggestions? Thanks. Ken.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:13 am

I checked into powder coating. I think it was about 400.00 for the set but I bet that varies according to the shop you use.
D.Scott

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On Nov 2, 2015, at 8:45 PM, "'Jim Easley' jimeasley.tech@gmail.com [B9Builders]" wrote:

Might try powder coating. It is pretty much impervious to everything and works well with steel. Abrasive blasting will take care of rust and contaminants and preps the material for good adhesion of most materials. From: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 02, 2015 8:27 PM To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Subject: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads

I'm finding so many different methods of cleaning new steel in preparation for paint. I got my tread sections from Eric, so those who have the same ones can perhaps set me straight as to what to do to remove the rust & oily substance to obtain a showroom finish with the paint. I've read about acetone for cleaning, which I really don't want to use but will if it's the best way to go. Also curious about the screw holes and how they will hold up because once you screw something into the tapped holes, they'll then be un-coated & possibly begin to allow oxygen underneath the painted areas around them. That is unavoidable, I suppose but I just want a finish that will last & not be prone to any rust over many, many years. I've seen mention of conversion coatings that somehow changes ferrous metals for better protection. Anyway, those with more knowledge than myself, what are your suggestions? Thanks. Ken.

Jeff DeRose · Post by **Jeff DeRose** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:41 am

Clearly I didn't think enough about this one. Like Dennis, I just lightly sanded, vacuumed clean, primed, textured, sanded, painted. It's been 2 years and so far so good. But I'm in northern CA so maybe the climate is my friend.
Best,
Jeff-

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On Nov 2, 2015, at 8:27 PM, "acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders]" wrote:

I'm finding so many different methods of cleaning new steel in preparation for paint. I got my tread sections from Eric, so those who have the same ones can perhaps set me straight as to what to do to remove the rust & oily substance to obtain a showroom finish with the paint. I've read about acetone for cleaning, which I really don't want to use but will if it's the best way to go. Also curious about the screw holes and how they will hold up because once you screw something into the tapped holes, they'll then be un-coated & possibly begin to allow oxygen underneath the painted areas around them. That is unavoidable, I suppose but I just want a finish that will last & not be prone to any rust over many, many years. I've seen mention of conversion coatings that somehow changes ferrous metals for better protection. Anyway, those with more knowledge than myself, what are your suggestions? Thanks. Ken.

David Schulpius · Post by **David Schulpius** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:31 am

Hi Ken, my advice is to do it right but don't go bonkers and worry yourself to death. I'm probably the last one to give that advice because I am guilty of doing just that. However who better to get advice from than the sinners themselves. Lol. Don't worry about thouse little screw holes. Before you start applying the primer just insert a small screw in each hole and spray away. After the final top coat is dry just remove them and throw them away. If you're really set on rust prevention you can add a drop of oil to the threads before applying the new screws. Personally, I wouldn't bother unless he'll be standing in a damp location all the time. As far as the prep and paint; do you actually have visual rust that needs removing? If it's just a little serface stuff just hand sand with some dry 350 and/or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper followed by a wipe down with naptha or acidtone. Follow that with the alcohol if you feel better about it and lightly wipe with a tac cloth before each coat. Make it easy on yourself and use the self etching primer as your first coat and don't look back. Dupli-Coat has excellent paint products including the self etching primer and can be usually found in auto supply stores. This stuff is awsome and made to be used on metal. Its important to stay with the same type of primers, paints and clear coats. Lacquer and lacquers, enamel and enamel, latex and latex. If useing Dupli-Coat just stick with the same category name and you'll be fine. However Powder Coat is the ultimate and then someone else would be doing all the work with perp and finishing. Hope this is useful for you.
Dave Schulpius

On Nov 3, 2015 9:28 AM, "acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders]" wrote:

Thanks Jim, Dennis, Daniel & Jeff. One of my many faults is that I have a tendency to over analyze things. That must be why I have so many unfinished projects laying around Powder coating is interesting if I could do it myself. I don't live in an area where I can easily have that done, plus I'd be a nervous wreck they'd dent my beauties. But I'll keep it in mind and research the idea. Acetone is not out of the running, it's just that I've used it before and recall it as being very unpleasant. But again, I haven't ruled it out. I do have some 99% iso alcohol that doesn't smell bad or leave a residue but still not sure it's got enough power to do a good cleaning after sanding. The self-etching primer is more than likely what I'll use after getting the metal super clean and smooth. Still seeking out a good automotive primer & top coat. I'm also thinking about some sort of inert compound for the screw holes that would coat the threads & help seal out moisture & air. And yes, a good, dry climate is ideal for hindering oxidation. Unfortunately, the humidity here is the worst next to Florida, so, I really need a good, sealed finish. Here's a link for anyone interested in reading about the conversion coating I mentioned. Thanks again for the informative replies. All suggestions welcomed & appreciated! -Ken Conversion Coatings - Henkel North America Conversion Coatings - Henkel North America Henkel offers a complete line of conversion coatings for metal surfaces. View on www.henkelna.com Preview by Yahoo

Jim Easley · Post by **Jim Easley** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:48 am

Ken, One type of solution the pros use prior to painting is Prep-Sol and it will remove wax dirt and grease. Light sand the rust away and strip the surfaces with the Prep-Sol and clean lint free cloth. Wear gloves and plenty of ventilation. Most of the solutions for this application are flammable. Tapped holes will probably need to be chased with a tap after finishing. Use stainless steel hardware and a light coat of anti-seize on the threads to prevent corrosion. Probably the biggest problem you are going to have painting the tread section is getting in to all the deep recesses. Any well prepped and applied finish will prevent rust. Many of the guys use primer and spray cans like Rustoleum or Duplicolor and get amazing results. Have you decided on a specific color and surface finish? From: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 02, 2015 8:27 PM To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com Subject: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads
I'm finding so many different methods of cleaning new steel in preparation for paint. I got my tread sections from Eric, so those who have the same ones can perhaps set me straight as to what to do to remove the rust & oily substance to obtain a showroom finish with the paint. I've read about acetone for cleaning, which I really don't want to use but will if it's the best way to go. Also curious about the screw holes and how they will hold up because once you screw something into the tapped holes, they'll then be un-coated & possibly begin to allow oxygen underneath the painted areas around them. That is unavoidable, I suppose but I just want a finish that will last & not be prone to any rust over many, many years. I've seen mention of conversion coatings that somehow changes ferrous metals for better protection. Anyway, those with more knowledge than myself, what are your suggestions? Thanks. Ken.

sjb0459 · Post by **sjb0459** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:42 pm

I've got Eric's treads and I live in the UK where our weather is quite changeable, lol! All I have done is primed them when I received them and they have sat in our back room with my other parts for nearly three years now, ready for the big assembly and so far look as good as the day I primed them. At the end of the day my B9 will take pride of place in our home away from the outside elements so don't worry to much about rust.
Steve

deroseje · Post by **deroseje** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 5:17 pm

Attachments :As far as texture goes, I used the Stone Fleck spray on all my "metal" parts, except for the radar. When sanded down, it gives a very subtle look. That said, I'd highly recommend the SEM texture spray used by Dave S. and many other builders. From what I can tell, it gives a very subtle look and is incredibly uniform.

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------ Original Message ------

From: acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: November 3, 2015 at 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads

Excellent Jim, thanks! Sounds like Prep-Sol would do the trick. Is this anti-seize something that goes on the wheel axles? Yes, indeed; so many nooks and crannies that I'll have to be sure to cover when spraying, inside & out. I'd like to do a lightly textured finish on the final coat; not as rough as the hero from LIS but enough to make it look a bit more industrially 'cast' rather than a smooth auto finish. I've read some builders have used the hammered finish spray but that might be too rough. No specific color chosen as of yet. Thanks again. Going to be doing a great deal of reading this evening on Prep-Sol, anti-seize & other products. --Ken

David Schulpius · Post by **David Schulpius** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:30 pm

Yep, SEM is great but don't over sand it or you'll be reapplying and resanding. You just want to take the tips off with this stuff. Good News Is that It's easy to reapply and work with. Dave Schulpius

On Nov 3, 2015 4:17 PM, "jeff.derose@comcast.net [B9Builders]" wrote:

As far as texture goes, I used the Stone Fleck spray on all my "metal" parts, except for the radar. When sanded down, it gives a very subtle look. That said, I'd highly recommend the SEM texture spray used by Dave S. and many other builders. From what I can tell, it gives a very subtle look and is incredibly uniform.

Sent from my iPad
------ Original Message ------

From: acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders]
To: B9Builders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: November 3, 2015 at 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [B9Builders] Paint Prep for Steel Treads
Excellent Jim, thanks! Sounds like Prep-Sol would do the trick. Is this anti-seize something that goes on the wheel axles? Yes, indeed; so many nooks and crannies that I'll have to be sure to cover when spraying, inside & out. I'd like to do a lightly textured finish on the final coat; not as rough as the hero from LIS but enough to make it look a bit more industrially 'cast' rather than a smooth auto finish. I've read some builders have used the hammered finish spray but that might be too rough. No specific color chosen as of yet. Thanks again. Going to be doing a great deal of reading this evening on Prep-Sol, anti-seize & other products. --Ken

Eric Johnson · Post by **Eric Johnson** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:47 pm

Ken,
The way I prepped mine was wipe with lacquer thinner using a 3m scuff pad. Sand, prime, texture with SEM and paint. I'm not saying this is the only way it should be done. Others have giving great other options to use.

Eric

On 11/3/2015 3:14 PM, acropolisuniversity@gmail.com [B9Builders] wrote:

Steve, Good idea to prime things as they arrive rather than wait (as I've done). Sure saves a lot of worry down the road when everything is there waiting to be assembled. Good to know your treads are still good as the day you prepped them! They are quality, heavy tread sections and I'm very glad I got a set. --Ken

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