klr650 with zx10 motor

[Chris]

On Tue, Dec 23, 2003 at 11:49:48PM -0000, Keith Saltzer wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, bill sels wrote: > > serious off roadng yet what do you guys > > reccommend as BEST oil for me to use?? > > Oh no. He DIDN'T just ask about oil did he? Here we go again. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) uses Amsoil 20-50 synthetic

Hey, he asked for the BEST, that's Rotella-T of course. Muahahaha. If you can't tell from the replies, oil is holy war material on any bike list. Use what you want, but just change it. Any oil frequently changed (filter too) will do far better than whatever NASA miracle oil that isn't changed. Since switching to the 'multi-purpose' graded oil that Rotella-T is (there is plain and synthetic) my bike runs great and shifts a lot smoother than it used to. The Rotella comes in gallons from Wally World which is convenient too. -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

[Mike T]

I swear by Amsoil. Check out http://www.amsoil.com/products/amf.htm and other pages on amsoil.com Mike T A16 Las Vegas -----Original Message----- From: bill sels [mailto:lucky520us@...] Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 2:53 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] oil My bike is resting in warm basement waiting for a warm day>>< padded seat >< new battery and fresh oil and filter >< bike has 2400 miles now no serious off roadng yet what do you guys reccommend as BEST oil for me to use?? i ride mostly 2 lane paved roads under 60 mph some dirt and gully washed roads getting to creeks and strip pits >< i use my bke to get to fishing holes too far in woods for me to walk to eddie self www.freeflowplumbing.com

[Martin Waters]

Although I fully respect the beliefs of all group members, because of the small investment involved and the time between oil changes, does it not make sense just to use the BEST oil? Martin in Canada A16 2002

[aboyandhisdawg]

ok, i'll bite! and the "BEST" oil is? fixer KLR A1 Lost Wages, NV --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Waters" wrote:

> Although I fully respect the beliefs of all group members, because of > the small investment involved and the time between oil changes, does > it not make sense just to use the BEST oil? > > Martin in Canada > A16 2002

[boldrider26]

What to use?? FAQ suggests Castrol GTX which does not have the API ratings listed in the KLR manual. Castrol motorcycle 20w-50 does, but is this not a bit thick leading to poor lubrication at startup? Recommedations greatly appreciated.

[Eric]

Like the FAQ says... you'll get a million different answers. I have heard (and believe) that the only major difference between car oil and bike oil is that car oil has detergents in it that can cause the bike clutch to slip. I have actually felt it on my big high hp street bikes... swapped in bike oil and it was fine. I don't think the KLR produces enough power to slip the clutch anyway, so I personally am going to use the Castrol 10-40 and see how it goes. If anybody disagrees, don't hesitate to tell me I'm wrong... ~Eric

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "boldrider26" wrote: > > What to use?? > FAQ suggests Castrol GTX which does not have the API ratings listed > in the KLR manual. Castrol motorcycle 20w-50 does, but is this not a > bit thick leading to poor lubrication at startup? Recommedations > greatly appreciated.

[Arden Kysely]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "boldrider26" wrote:

> > What to use?? > FAQ suggests Castrol GTX which does not have the API ratings listed > in the KLR manual. Castrol motorcycle 20w-50 does, but is this not

a

> bit thick leading to poor lubrication at startup? Recommedations > greatly appreciated.

Shhh...don't tell my A11. It's run happily on GTX for many a mile. And I put 20W-50 in for hot-hot-hot rides. __Arden

[nakedwaterskier]

Thicker oil doesn't flow back dn hill easily so thick oil is fine at startup. But if oil is too thick for the outside temperature then you cannot start up bike...I LEARNED AT ESR2...I thought the straight 40w would have thinned out after 1500 miles but it didn't. I had to put a space heater near the motor for 15 mins. to start. The house brand oil is fine at autozone, kragen, pep boys etc...it is made by major refineries and the specs. are continually upgraded...we have gone from sf to sg to sh to si to sj to sk...who knows where we are now...BUT, EVEN HOUSE BRAND OIL MADE IN THE LAST YR IS FABULOUS! JPG RED04

[nakedwaterskier]

API (American Petroleum Institute) Classification: Oil performance is expressed by two letters. The first letter indicates whether the oil is for gasoline (S) or diesel (C) engines. The second letter specifies the level of technical performance within the relevant group: A for the minimum level for both gasoline and diesel, and J (gasoline) and F (diesel) for the highest level. Gasoline: (min.performance) SA..SB..SC..SD..SE..SF..SG..SH..SJ (max.performance) Diesel: (min.performance) CA..CB..CC..CD..CE..CF (max.performance) ACEA (Association of European Car Manufacturers) Classification: Oil performance is described by a letter followed by a number. ACEA standards are divided into three categories: A for gasoline engines, B for diesel car engines, E for diesel engines for commercial vehicles and trucks. Levels of lubricants performance are expressed by a following number: 1 for fuel-economy oils 2 for general purpose oils, and 3 for high performance oils Example: A1 describes a fuel-economy gasoline engine oil, and A3 describes a high-performance gasoline engine oil. The proper viscosity grade to use depends on many factors such as ambient temperature, miles on the engine, bearing and piston clearances, and type of service. A general rule of lubrication is to use the lowest viscosity possible which will provide the proper separation of metal. Anything more than this minimum will increase power loss due to friction and will reduce the pumpability of the oil at all temperatures. However, one must consider synthetics differently when determining viscosity requirements.

[John Kokola]

Oil thread ... already? It's only October! I agree, use any oil ... but use an appropriate weight. The thicker the oil, the longer it takes to reach the top end. Sure, a thicker oil will leave a better film behind, but that's not the best approach for start-up lubrication (the most critical period). Bypass valves on oil filters rarely open because the filter clogs. They open on startup because cold oil is too thick to go through a filter. The colder the ambient temperature, and the higher viscosity grade of the oil, the longer the bypass valve remains open. Personally I've never seen a clutch slip because an oil (like many bike-specific oils) containing moly was used, nor have I ever seen a lubrication-related failure. I highly recommend the 3-part series on oil by Motorcycle Consumer News from a couple of years ago, I believe the entire series is available as a special reprint. I like synthetics because of their flow properties at low temperatures and their resistance to breakdown at high temperatures. --John Kokola -----Original Message----- From: nakedwaterskier Sent: Oct 20, 2004 10:54 AM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] OIL Thicker oil doesn't flow back dn hill easily so thick oil is fine at startup.