valve adjustment with motor off the bike and doohicky

[mwl_95623]

I agree. I also like the technique Jake describes on his site using a mirror to align the sprocket with the chain: http://sagebrushmachine.com/howeye/chain.html Matt

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "The Mule" wrote: > As someone else mentioned previously, it's a good idea to check how the > chain lines up with the sprocket as well. Centered and not listing to one > side. Spin the wheel while checking. If the two wheels are out with each > other when the chain/sprocket are centered, you've probably got other > alignment issues to deal with. > > Steve > The Mule > >

[transalp 1]

Chain adjusters and their marks for aligning the rear wheel are a "close enough" affair, I suppose.

Recently, I adjusted my chain and went for a short ride. As I rolled to a stop in the driveway, I noticed the chain made more noise than before. It wasn't too tight or loose. I'd double checked the tension and at different points by turning the wheel. Hmmm....   So, I put the bike on the center stand and had a look at the rear sprocket. The chain seemed to be riding on the center of the teeth and not favoring one side or another. Then I had a MacGyver moment and got a small ceramic magnet, rectangular in shape, about 2 inches by 1 inch by 1/4 in. With the thin edge of one long side at 12:00 on the rear sporocket - magnet parallel to the ground - I placed a brand new, straight hacksaw blade on the opposite edge pointed forward at the countershaft sprocket area. The blade was situated so it was vertically oriented (like it would be in a saw in use) and not inclined to "flop". The blade is also white, so it was easy to see it wasn't pointed straight ahead. In fact, it was headed left a good bit.  I played with the chain adjusters a little and got the blade going straight ahead - parallel to the chain as I could manage. After tightening things up, I gave the wheel a spin. The chain still seemed centered on the sprocket and the tension was okay. So, I took the bike for another short ride. The odd noise was gone. In fact, the chain is really quiet now. Success! 

 

eddie

 

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote:

> > Chain adjusters and their marks for aligning the rear wheel are a "close enough" affair, I suppose.

SNIP

> eddie

Eddie- AS always, nice, informative, and useful post. smile. Your attention being drawn to the new 'squeek' made me smile. I offer a couple of comments/observations for the general reading public, and not intended to be all inclusive-- In a recent visit with Jeff Saline, he mentioned the method being used at the Black Hills HD shop where he has most recently been a pre-maint/post-maint test rider. He handed me a welding rod (to be bent at the end 90 degrees) and said this is what they use. They put the 90degree bend at the center of the swingarm pivot point on side L, then note the point that is at the center of the axle; move to side R and compare the difference. Adjust until both are equal. Then they adjust chain/belt for tension. Is that better? shrug. Just another data point; seems to work for a commercial operation that does it for 'money'--because time is money--and is purported to be FAST. You can always hope they do it that way because it is adequately accurate. = Simple, fast, accurate. My HSchool Sportster riding friend counted exposed threads on the chain tensioner; even at the age of 16/17, I knew THAT had its own physical and scientific possibilites of error. but, seemed close enough. smile. It was 1969 XLCH, and he said my XS650 shook! On my Hodaka dirt bikes, circa 1968-76 I would sight over the top of the chain as it went back towards the C/S; adjusting so it fed off the chain straight. Then adjusted chain tension. Seemed to work good enough then. Presently using a mirror to sight how the chain is feeding onto the rear sprocket; adjusting to make sure it is feeding square--then adjusting for tension. After the initial 'got it the way I want it' we indexed the chain tension nuts with a . and a .. opposite each other that represent 1/2 turn. (. and .. on the chain tension nut is a Jeff Saline suggestion) When we do sprocket changes for mountain gears (= 14/46 or 13/43) or road gears (=16/46 or 15/43) both chain tension nuts are moved EXACTLY the same amount each time which eliminates any chain alignment problems, thus drastically reducing the sprocket change time becuase you don't have to struggle with the chain alignment. If it was straight before, it remains straight afterwards. So easy a 14 year old with limited experience could do it. In fact, he did it yesterday, changing from mt. gears to road gears with only a little supervision. Two additional suggestions: replace that double nut chain tensioner (on pre-08's) with a nyloc nut or a prevailing torque nut; both are available from Fred and possibly in the bolt/nut selection of a well equipped hardware store or at a place like FASTENAL bolts and nuts, etal. No Virginia, I have never lost a single nut. cough. What I have lost is the frustration of having that OEM set up requirng two wrenches to operate. the second thing--has slipped my mind. shrug. Might have been replace that C/S nut with a prevailing Torque nut from Fred of Eagle Mike. Makes life a lot more simple--especially if you are changing gears for the conditions--not necessary if the only time you change a sprocket is when it is worn out. We change often and has made the task simplier. AS well as replacing both axle nuts with prevailing torque nuts from Fred. A point of interest; we loose ~5mph for the same rpm when we make a tooth change. So if you swap you 15/43 =70mph@5Krpm for a 13/43, you will see 60mph at 5Krpm. Yeah, yeah, yeah, you go faster than 70 at 5K rpm. Your indicated speed is probably 75/65 but measured by GPS the actual speed is the suggested 70/60mph. One thing that I do, I make sure the 13T sprocket is wide-side-in; the chain makes a tighter loop next to the engine case and where the C/S exits the case, it is a stepped boss that the chain will/might rub on if you have the narrow side of the C/S sprocket next to the case. Yes, Virginia, I know why. smile. This is ESPICALLY important on an O-ring chain as the O-ring chain is slightly wider than a non-o-ring chain. That slight difference of wide side in, wide side out allowed the chain to drag on the case. Eagle Mike also sells a 'washer' that you can put on the C/S to give additional clnc--of wich I now possess as well. or, the second thing might have been this: Something Sam and I watched carefully on our 2527 Father/Son/dos KLR trip this month is oil consumption. We went a full 2K miles on 15/40 Rotella and never observed the bubble in the window--and NEVER exceeded 5K rpm for any significant amount of time. The last 800 miles, we we slabbed home (due to time constraints) and stayed in mt gears at 5800-6000 rpms a good bit of the time; the 01-650 with 31Ksmiles drank 500cc in those first 500 miles = half way into the sight window. The 98 with 39Ksmiles is still above the sight window. note: I for one believe the engineers when they say 2.5l oil capacity with filter change. My own testing of adding oil in carefully measured increments indicate that you need to add 300cc when the sight bubble is first visible to equal 2.5l of oil capacity. ymmv. revmaaatin. who is still relishing the memories of 2527 KLRsmiles with my son.

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 15:19:41 -0000 "Steve" writes:

> After a total motor failure (basically, the bike blew a valve through > the valve cover), I'm about to install a new (used) motor that I got > from a wrecker. He said that they had run it, so I'm hopeful. Two > questions: > > 1. I figure I may as well check the valve clearances while the > motor is out if the bike. Seems easier than having to get into all > the tight places. I've done the valve adjustment before, but am > wondering if there is anything that I would need to do different if > the bike isn't mounted in the frame. > > 2. I know there has been discussion before about figuring out if > the doo was done, but I can't find it. How can I tell if the > original doohicky was replaced. > > Thanks

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Steve, I don't think you need to do anything differently for the valve check/adjustment with the engine out of the bike. I'm guessing it will actually be much easier. To validate the condition/make of the doo and spring I don't know of any way other than opening the engine. That might be easier with it mounted in the frame as there could be some serious torque involved if you have to remove/replace the rotor bolt. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

[billshel2003]

I was on a road trip and one of the nylon straps I used to "secure" the load on the rack hanged down and got caught on the hub just inside the rear sprocket. It felt like I hit a hard bump, but it pulled that 1" nylon strap down, wrapped it around the hub and snapped it. Luckily, previously I upgraded the subframe bolts or it might have ripped the back of the bike apart. I doing doing around 60mph. Upon examination it looked like the rear sprocket was now directing the chain to the left of the countershaft sprocket. I had always kept the chain adjustment marks equal. Now the left side is slightly forward so that when viewed from behind I eyeball the chain being directed straight to the countershaft sprocket. Maybe it was always a little off, or maybe the swingarm got bent during that incident. But, those marks aren't equal from here on out. Bike still runs fine.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: > > Chain adjusters and their marks for aligning the rear wheel are a "close enough" affair, I suppose. > Recently, I adjusted my chain and went for a short ride. As I rolled to a stop in the driveway, I noticed the chain made more noise than before. It wasn't too tight or loose. I'd double checked the tension and at different points by turning the wheel. Hmmm.... So, I put the bike on the center stand and had a look at the rear sprocket. The chain seemed to be riding on the center of the teeth and not favoring one side or another. Then I had a MacGyver moment and got a small ceramic magnet, rectangular in shape, about 2 inches by 1 inch by 1/4 in. With the thin edge of one long side at 12:00 on the rear sporocket - magnet parallel to the ground - I placed a brand new, straight hacksaw blade on the opposite edge pointed forward at the countershaft sprocket area. The blade was situated so it was vertically oriented (like it would be in a saw in use) and not inclined to "flop". The blade is also white, so it was easy to see it wasn't pointed straight ahead. In fact, it was headed left a good bit. I played with the chain adjusters a little and got the blade going straight ahead - parallel to the chain as I could manage. After tightening things up, I gave the wheel a spin. The chain still seemed centered on the sprocket and the tension was okay. So, I took the bike for another short ride. The odd noise was gone. In fact, the chain is really quiet now. Success! > > eddie >