travel lock - cable - chain question

DSN_KLR650
k650@verizon.net
Posts: 82
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:50 pm

tire repair hints and tricks help

Post by k650@verizon.net » Mon Aug 23, 2010 4:01 pm

Attachments : I usually manage to mount my tires without using lube even with dual rim locks.

Occasionally and only if needed I use silicone spray on the “trouble” spot.

 

Walt

 

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Jeff Khoury [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, August 23, 2010 16:41 [b]To:[/b] Bob K [b]Cc:[/b] thehaymaker@xr650r.us; dsn klr650 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help

 

I use Windex on the road (I carry a 6oz bottle for cleaning mirrors and face shields), and Simple Green at home.  Simple green is some slick stuff. -Jeff Khoury
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob K" cbrxx98@hotmail.com> To: thehaymaker@xr650r.us, "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 1:26:34 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help  

WD-40 makes rubber swell.....that's the opposit of what he wants.   Bob 09

 

 

To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: TheHaymaker@xr650r.us Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 16:06:32 -0400 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help  

Am I the only one who uses WD40 as a lube for working tires? I carry one of those tiny cans you can find occasionally and use that on the trail. WD is superior to soap because it is such a worthless lube that it dries up upon assembly, vs soap that is slick again at the next mudhole. It has helped cures rim spin on my XR650R permanently. Get rid of the cotters and other stuff and go with a locknut. I carry small vise grips to stop bead "walk" when assembling. They also make a tool to do this. Chances are if you can't get the last of the bead to come over is that you aren't pushing the tire into the center of the wheel. You gotta start in the right place so the rimlock doesn't prevent this from happening. E


Jud
Posts: 570
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:52 pm

tire repair hints and tricks help

Post by Jud » Mon Aug 23, 2010 4:44 pm

Have you remembered to push both beads down into the drop center of the rim opposite where you are working? This essential step is often forgotten, leading people to seek longer and longer tire levers. If you are doing it right, it really does not call for much force. Those Motion Pro T6 levers are the shizzle, but you ought to be able to lever the tire on and off with the 6" levers from a BMW tool kit. Doing it without pinching the tube is another matter, which is why I swear by the MP spoons. Lube helps, but it is not essential at this point. You really need it when seating the bead. I use talc as lube. Dish soap works, but leaves a sticky residue that can interfere with breaking the bead next time. Talc does triple duty, as it also lubes the tube inside the casing, and helps keep your butt cool and dry on the road. Keep your powder dry and it will return the favor.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "idaho_mtgoat" wrote: > > Well after 8500 smiles I have my first rapid air down of a tire. My rear tire acquired a sheet rock screw and went flat fast with the resultant distruction of the tube. I was close to home so just trailered it home and set about to change the tire with the tools I carry on-board (first flat repair). I made it almost all the way through. I am down to the last 12" to 14" of the tire to coax over the rim and I am stymied. Are there any tricks to getting the last little bit of the tire to slide over the rim? I am using two Pro-Motion wrench/bar combos and a 8" flat steel tire iron. Any hints and tricks would be appreciated. > > Additionally which side do most "lay in the dirt" when changing a rear tire? I opted for the sprocket side. > > BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? > > Thanks > Pat >

roncriswell@sbcglobal.net
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:08 pm

tire repair hints and tricks help

Post by roncriswell@sbcglobal.net » Mon Aug 23, 2010 4:56 pm

I used to use hitch pins but found if you are riding in brushy stuff, they can get pulled out by twigs or vines. I started putting a wrap of duct tape around the open end to make sure it didn't accidently get pulled out. After a guy in Moab went out on the White Rim and came back with his front axle nut missing and he was using hitch pins, I went back to cotter keys. Criswell
On Aug 23, 2010, at 10:32 AM, Jeff Khoury wrote:   I use a hitch pin as well.  Saves tons of time and effort. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "transalp 1" To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 7:43:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Tire Repair Hints and Tricks Help   My mechanic doesn't use pliers to remove cotter pins. He uses diagonal cutters. 1st, he snips the bent ends off. Then he grabs the head of the pin with the cutters - careful not to cut on through it and then levers it out of the hole sort of like a hammer pulling a nail. The pin comes right out. Of course, he has a ready supply of new cotter pins always on hand, too. ;) Me? I've got a hitch pin vs a cotter pin. It stays in place but removes easily when I need it. eddie > [Original Message] > > From: idaho_mtgoat > (snip) > > BTW the items I have on my list to add are the little tool to fish the valve through the hole in the rim and a better set of pliers to easier remove the axle cotter pin. Best place to find each (4" quality slip joint pliers seem hard to locate)? > > > > Thanks > > Pat > > > > > >

E Hines
Posts: 179
Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:16 pm

tire repair hints and tricks help

Post by E Hines » Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:41 pm