----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Saline" To: s2mumford@... Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 12:23:54 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR 650 : 685 kit On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 02:01:14 -0000 "SM" writes: > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline > wrote: > > > > If a guy wanted to do head work for more power that could be done. > I > > don't think the cost is worth the results so won't be doing it to > my > > head. > > That's a pretty subjective view there, Jeff. > > You're looking at more than a 7% (41 vs. 38 horsepower) peak > increase according to this chart: > http://www.patmanracing.com/Image%20host/eXcel-dyno-chart-A.jpg > > This page is pretty comprehensive regarding power gains through > different mods: > http://www.patmanracing.com/klrdyno.htm > > Looks like it is pretty evenly spread across the whole rpm range, > too. > > Thanks > CA Stu A13 <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Stu, Yup, subjective alright. : ) I took a very quick look at the dyno results. I didn't see where headwork along was documented. Although the dyno results show improvement I stand by my view that the head work isn't worth the money to me. The 685 kit is worth the money in my opinion if a person wants to stop an oil burner or gain a little extra power. No matter what mods you do you still basically have a KLR. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . __________________________________________________________ Criminal Lawyer Criminal Lawyers - Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=QjYFcuPMDrbGBTNZSwMEbAAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAiFgAAAAA=
oil change intervals
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klr 650 : 685 kit
#ygrps-yiv-480001884 p {margin:0;}Since my KLR is my primary transportation (I'm lucky if I drive my truck once or twice per month), I rack up the miles pretty fast. I'm already over 10,000 miles on my '09.
My plan is to ride it with the mods I've currently performed until she starts to lose compression, then do the 685 Kit. Since I'm pretty faithful with the engine maintenance and only use full synth. oil, this may take a while.
If I wear that out, I might even do the 705. I want to see exactly how many miles I can put on one before it dies.
-Jeff Khoury
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klr 650 : 685 kit
Unless you are abusing it or not changing the oil, that will be in about
5-10 years or so......
Jeff Khoury wrote:
> > Since my KLR is my primary transportation (I'm lucky if I drive my > truck once or twice per month), I rack up the miles pretty fast. I'm > already over 10,000 miles on my '09. > > My plan is to ride it with the mods I've currently performed until she > starts to lose compression, then do the 685 Kit. Since I'm pretty > faithful with the engine maintenance and only use full synth. oil, > this may take a while. > > If I wear that out, I might even do the 705. I want to see exactly > how many miles I can put on one before it dies. > > -Jeff Khoury > > > Reply to sender > > | Reply to group > DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=Re:%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20Re:%20KLR%20650%20:%20685%20kit> > > Messages in this topic > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/message/194215;_ylc=X3oDMTM3Z3U0YW4xBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEbXNnSWQDMTk0MjkyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTI2MTE2ODQ2NAR0cGNJZAMxOTQyMTU-> > (10) > Recent Activity: > > * New Members > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/members;_ylc=X3oDMTJlMmttbzRtBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEc2VjA3Z0bARzbGsDdm1icnMEc3RpbWUDMTI2MTE2ODQ2NA--?o=6> > 6 > * New Photos > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/spnew;_ylc=X3oDMTJlamNtcXJmBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEc2VjA3Z0bARzbGsDdnBob3QEc3RpbWUDMTI2MTE2ODQ2NA--> > 9 > > Visit Your Group > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZzJtcnJyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEc2VjA3Z0bARzbGsDdmdocARzdGltZQMxMjYxMTY4NDY0> > Start a New Topic > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ3Y1MHVyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDbnRwYwRzdGltZQMxMjYxMTY4NDY0> > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > MARKETPLACE > > Going Green: Your Yahoo! Groups resource for green living > http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=14kehk4vt/M=493064.13814333.13821539.13298430/D=groups/S=1705126262:MKP1/Y=YAHOO/EXP=1261175664/L=/B=Dq4iXkPDhCo-/J=1261168464719812/K=hmebboWEghClWv5OH6Fifg/A=5922843/R=0/SIG=11ckn2mo6/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/green/> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Parenting Zone: Find useful resources for a happy, healthy family and > home > http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=14klfnsrl/M=493064.13814537.13821737.10835568/D=groups/S=1705126262:MKP1/Y=YAHOO/EXP=1261175664/L=/B=D64iXkPDhCo-/J=1261168464719812/K=hmebboWEghClWv5OH6Fifg/A=5898843/R=0/SIG=11kkq36go/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/parentingzone/> > > Yahoo! Groups > http://groups.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTJjN2tkZDFnBF9TAzk3NDc2NTkwBGdycElkAzQ4ODM4NQRncnBzcElkAzE3MDUxMjYyNjIEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDZ2ZwBHN0aW1lAzEyNjExNjg0NjQ-> > > Switch to: Text-Only > DSN_KLR650-traditional@yahoogroups.com?subject=Change%20Delivery%20Format:%20Traditional>, > Daily Digest > DSN_KLR650-digest@yahoogroups.com?subject=Email%20Delivery:%20Digest> > Unsubscribe > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> > Terms of Use http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> > . > >
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klr 650 : 685 kit
The reason you don't see a dyno graph of a 685 and then a 685 with a new head is because it makes sense to trick out the head when you put the 685 piston and cylinder on.
The graph I linked to has the head, a KLX needle, and a 42 pilot jet as the mods made at the same time.
Since we both know that the pilot jet affects only the first 1/4 of throttle opening, it seems pretty far fetched to me to suggest that a KLX needle vs. a Dynojet needle would have that much effect by itself.
Have you ridden one with that has had the cylinder head modified?
Also, I don't see what you mean by "you still basically have a KLR"?
Care to expand on that a bit?
Thanks
CA Stu A13
---
Stu, Yup, subjective alright. : ) I took a very quick look at the dyno results. I didn't see where headwork along was documented. Although the dyno results show improvement I stand by my view that the head work isn't worth the money to me. The 685 kit is worth the money in my opinion if a person wants to stop an oil burner or gain a little extra power. No matter what mods you do you still basically have a KLR. Best, Jeff Saline
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klr 650 : 685 kit
#ygrps-yiv-96411896 .ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-photo-title { CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-photo { BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;HEIGHT:62px;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 P { CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 DIV.ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp { BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-RIGHT:10px;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-LEFT:10px;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:10px 0px;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-TOP:0px;BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp HR { BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-96411896hd { FONT-WEIGHT:700;FONT-SIZE:85%;MARGIN:10px 0px;COLOR:#628c2a;LINE-HEIGHT:122%;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-96411896ads { MARGIN-BOTTOM:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-96411896ad { PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-96411896 #ygrps-yiv-96411896ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-96411896ad A { COLOR:#0000ff;TEXT-DECORATION:none;} The reason you don't see a dyno graph of a 685 and then a 685 with a new head is because it makes sense to trick out the head when you put the 685 piston and cylinder on.
The graph I linked to has the head, a KLX needle, and a 42 pilot jet as the mods made at the same time.
Since we both know that the pilot jet affects only the first 1/4 of throttle opening, it seems pretty far fetched to me to suggest that a KLX needle vs. a Dynojet needle would have that much effect by itself.
Have you ridden one with that has had the cylinder head modified?
Also, I don't see what you mean by "you still basically have a KLR"?
Care to expand on that a bit?
Thanks
CA Stu A13
Stu, I haven't ridden a KLR with a 685 kit or modified cylinder head. I'm not into the power of those improvements. I find a KLR works well for me just fine with the power it comes with from the factory. The only reason I'm gonna do a 685 kit on my bike is to stop an oil use issue. I actually think it's valve seals but since I'll be so close I want to make sure I stop the oil use if it isn't the seals. I agree it makes sense to do the headwork at the same time as a 685 kit instead of pulling the head twice. I don't know for sure but believe the headwork is worth about $600 or so depending on what's done. For me that money could be better spent on suspension improvements. I look at a KLR as a basic dual sport motorcycle and a darn good one for the money it costs. But when you really get down to doing a lot of mods for brakes, suspension, power and personalization it can run into some hefty dollar amounts. So far I've done more personalization to mine and just last spring finally added progressive springs and race tech gold cartridge emulators to my forks. For me the brakes are fine as the come stock but I should disclose I've got about 29,000 smiles on my bike and I'm still on the original stock pads. Power is good as I run a 14/46 sprocket combo and still don't often rev past 6,000 rpm. That sometimes happens when I'm V-Twin hunting and find a gaggle going 35 in a 50 zone. Usually I'm more at 5,000 rpm for sustained use. I don't see much need for more power if I'm not using what I've already got. So I guess doing a few power improvements without a lot of other improvements leaves you with a KLR that has more power. That's just basically a KLR in my book. : ) Best, Jeff
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
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klr 650 : 685 kit
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote:
Now that brings up an interesting subjective 'opinion' cough. whqat defines abuse? or flogging? 'I just ride it, never "flog" it' and we all have a different defintion of 'flogging' One example would be oil change intervals. When I read the oil change intervals some 'advertise', ie --I change it every 3K miless--I just cringe. No doubt they ride their bike with a much more gentle hand than I do, but going 3K mile on an oil change is abuse. =royal flogging. Yes, virginia, that statement was made with science behind it--allowing that 10/40 oil that has sheared down to 30wt is no longer doing its job. (30wt verified through Catapillar Oil analysis--as told here numerous times) Valvoline 10/40 was shot at 1K miles Rotella 15/40 is good up to 2K-ish. ( I try to change at 1500) One of our friends suggest--oil is cheap. change it often. If you do that--(and add a thermobob) there is years and years of service a head for all of us. revmaaatin. yfmv (your flogging may vary)> > Unless you are abusing it or not changing the oil, that will be in about > 5-10 years or so...... >
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klr 650 : 685 kit
I know two guys who have done the 685 and are very happy with the results. One had port work done by a shop in Arkansas highly recommended. The other did his own port work. I rode the one where the guy did his own port work and seat of the pants does feel stronger. I am considering doing it to mine but have 52,000 miles on the engine and wonder if it is a good idea? I did have a top end job done by a reputable mechanic at about 25,000 due to smoking oil burning. so far no more of those problems.
Criswell
On Dec 18, 2009, at 11:26 PM, Jeff Saline wrote:
The reason you don't see a dyno graph of a 685 and then a 685 with a new head is because it makes sense to trick out the head when you put the 685 piston and cylinder on. The graph I linked to has the head, a KLX needle, and a 42 pilot jet as the mods made at the same time. Since we both know that the pilot jet affects only the first 1/4 of throttle opening, it seems pretty far fetched to me to suggest that a KLX needle vs. a Dynojet needle would have that much effect by itself. Have you ridden one with that has had the cylinder head modified? Also, I don't see what you mean by "you still basically have a KLR"? Care to expand on that a bit? Thanks CA Stu A13 Stu, I haven't ridden a KLR with a 685 kit or modified cylinder head. I'm not into the power of those improvements. I find a KLR works well for me just fine with the power it comes with from the factory. The only reason I'm gonna do a 685 kit on my bike is to stop an oil use issue. I actually think it's valve seals but since I'll be so close I want to make sure I stop the oil use if it isn't the seals. I agree it makes sense to do the headwork at the same time as a 685 kit instead of pulling the head twice. I don't know for sure but believe the headwork is worth about $600 or so depending on what's done. For me that money could be better spent on suspension improvements. I look at a KLR as a basic dual sport motorcycle and a darn good one for the money it costs. But when you really get down to doing a lot of mods for brakes, suspension, power and personalization it can run into some hefty dollar amounts. So far I've done more personalization to mine and just last spring finally added progressive springs and race tech gold cartridge emulators to my forks. For me the brakes are fine as the come stock but I should disclose I've got about 29,000 smiles on my bike and I'm still on the original stock pads. Power is good as I run a 14/46 sprocket combo and still don't often rev past 6,000 rpm. That sometimes happens when I'm V-Twin hunting and find a gaggle going 35 in a 50 zone. Usually I'm more at 5,000 rpm for sustained use. I don't see much need for more power if I'm not using what I've already got. So I guess doing a few power improvements without a lot of other improvements leaves you with a KLR that has more power. That's just basically a KLR in my book. : ) Best, Jeff Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ Weight Loss Program Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
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klr 650 : 685 kit
That is interesting. I have always done the 3,000 routine using Rotella 15/40 the last 25,000 or so.
Criswell
On Dec 19, 2009, at 12:46 AM, revmaaatin wrote:
--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote: > > Unless you are abusing it or not changing the oil, that will be in about > 5-10 years or so...... > Now that brings up an interesting subjective 'opinion' cough. whqat defines abuse? or flogging? 'I just ride it, never "flog" it' and we all have a different defintion of 'flogging' One example would be oil change intervals. When I read the oil change intervals some 'advertise', ie --I change it every 3K miless--I just cringe. No doubt they ride their bike with a much more gentle hand than I do, but going 3K mile on an oil change is abuse. =royal flogging. Yes, virginia, that statement was made with science behind it--allowing that 10/40 oil that has sheared down to 30wt is no longer doing its job. (30wt verified through Catapillar Oil analysis--as told here numerous times) Valvoline 10/40 was shot at 1K miles Rotella 15/40 is good up to 2K-ish. ( I try to change at 1500) One of our friends suggest--oil is cheap. change it often. If you do that--(and add a thermobob) there is years and years of service a head for all of us. revmaaatin. yfmv (your flogging may vary)
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klr 650 : 685 kit
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@..." wrote:
Ron, Well, That kind of puts a hole in my balloon! Does the bike still shift smoothly at 3K miles on the oil? Just thinking out loud-- Your previous post of needing to correct/repair an oil burner at 25K miles--does that support going 3K miles between oil changes or could it support my premise that the oil sheared down to 30wt and was more consumable? The oil analysis that was done with 4 different bikes (my bike, Jeff Saline, --?Bob Sobolof? the California-engineer-oil guy who know longer has a KLR and I think-Steve R of Texas as well) indicated that the 15/40 Rotella started to break-down/sheared down to 30w at ~2K miles. If OEM suggests that 40w (temp adjusted) was the recommended weight, our logic says that it needs to remain a minimum of 40wt. The other indicator of shearing/needing an oil change was the bike becomes more difficult to shift at the upper end of the oil change interval. Jeff is the keeper of the analysis data--maybe he will comment. What I do know, the 3K oil change interval would not work for me. revmaaatin.> > That is interesting. I have always done the 3,000 routine using > Rotella 15/40 the last 25,000 or so. > > Criswell
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klr 650 : 685 kit
Could be a reason for oil burning at 25,000. I attributed some of it to a K&N filter in very dusty conditions (that wasn't fitting correctly - metal cover). Plus I run it at 5200 - 5500 rpm all the time even in hot TX summer.
But .......even more intersting....my friend who did the 685 and did his own port work and has a lot of experience rebuilding motorcycle and car engines thinks the stock oil ring is weak.
And ........even more interesting, he runs Rotella Dino and the other 685 guy runs Rotella Synthetic. The Synthetic guys piston looked almost brand new while the Rotella Dino piston had quite a bit of brown burn marks on the piston walls. Both had about the same milage at teardown. Neither guy babys their bike.
Oh no, oil again.
Criswell
Sent from my iPhone
--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@ ..." wrote: > > That is interesting. I have always done the 3,000 routine using > Rotella 15/40 the last 25,000 or so. > > Criswell Ron, Well, That kind of puts a hole in my balloon! Does the bike still shift smoothly at 3K miles on the oil? Just thinking out loud-- Your previous post of needing to correct/repair an oil burner at 25K miles--does that support going 3K miles between oil changes or could it support my premise that the oil sheared down to 30wt and was more consumable? The oil analysis that was done with 4 different bikes (my bike, Jeff Saline, --?Bob Sobolof? the California-engineer -oil guy who know longer has a KLR and I think-Steve R of Texas as well) indicated that the 15/40 Rotella started to break-down/sheared down to 30w at ~2K miles. If OEM suggests that 40w (temp adjusted) was the recommended weight, our logic says that it needs to remain a minimum of 40wt. The other indicator of shearing/needing an oil change was the bike becomes more difficult to shift at the upper end of the oil change interval. Jeff is the keeper of the analysis data--maybe he will comment. What I do know, the 3K oil change interval would not work for me. revmaaatin.On Dec 19, 2009, at 9:07 AM, "revmaaatin" wrote:
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klr 650 : 685 kit
On Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:07:49 -0000 "revmaaatin"
writes:
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><>> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "roncriswell@..." > wrote: > > > > That is interesting. I have always done the 3,000 routine using > > Rotella 15/40 the last 25,000 or so. > > Criswell
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Martin, Listers, First... it's Blake Sobiloff. : ) He hasn't been on the list in a few years but is the guy that got me started with oil analysis on the KLR. I met him in Walnut Creek, CA in the fall of 2006. We had a nice visit and some good conversation. I took my last sample over a year ago. Martin's comments are pretty accurate based on our conversations and data sharing. I found Rotella T 15w/40 dino oil in my KLR was good for about 2,000 smiles and was on the verge of being sheared to a 30 weight. My guess based on multiple analysis results is by 2,250 smiles it would be a high 30 weight. I run a 14/46 sprocket combo on my bike so that indicates to me I could probably get a bit more use from the oil if I was running stock sprockets of 15/43. Based on more than a handful of samples I decided I'd normally change my KLR oil at 1,750 smiles. I have absolutely no data concerning using oil past the 2,000 mile mark and don't expect I'll ever obtain it. I believe KHI put the oil change interval at 6,000 miles in my 2003 owners manual. I contacted them in late 2003 asking about this interval and got a reply saying it was incorrect but they weren't going to correct the manual. Unfortunately I didn't save that correspondence. The KLR oil compartment is a harsh place. It contains the crankcase for an internal combustion engine, a constant mesh transmission and a multi-disk wet clutch. All three items have different lubrication requirements. One oil doesn't work "best" for each of these. Finding what works "best" for you and your KLR is up to you. Some folks like motorcycle specific oil, others like a synthetic, others like dino of a specific brand and still others put in whatever they have available. Oil change intervals are as diverse as oil choices. I've heard of folks changing oil every 800 miles or sooner to going 6,000 or more smiles between changes. How's that for throwing fuel on the fire? : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Weight Loss Program Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=hR9CMriEazy1Qj7K1MmUEQAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEUgAAAAA=> Ron, > Well, > That kind of puts a hole in my balloon! > Does the bike still shift smoothly at 3K miles on the oil? > > Just thinking out loud-- > Your previous post of needing to correct/repair an oil burner at 25K > miles--does that support going 3K miles between oil changes or could > it support my premise that the oil sheared down to 30wt and was more > consumable? > > The oil analysis that was done with 4 different bikes (my bike, Jeff > Saline, --?Bob Sobolof? the California-engineer-oil guy who know > longer has a KLR and I think-Steve R of Texas as well) indicated > that the 15/40 Rotella started to break-down/sheared down to 30w at > ~2K miles. If OEM suggests that 40w (temp adjusted) was the > recommended weight, our logic says that it needs to remain a minimum > of 40wt. > > The other indicator of shearing/needing an oil change was the bike > becomes more difficult to shift at the upper end of the oil change > interval. > > Jeff is the keeper of the analysis data--maybe he will comment. > > What I do know, the 3K oil change interval would not work for me. > > revmaaatin.
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