fork oil question

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "ssjarz" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > We are suppose to clean the air filter ? Ut oh... > > > > Dooden > > A15 Green Ape > > > > Two points: > > 1. If the filter foam looks dirty, it probably IS dirty. Clean it. > > 2. Either kerosene can be used or manufacturers that make foam oils > makes a foam cleaner specifically for foam filters. > > Regards, > > ssjarz > A8L

Well actually I am guilty, my 2001 has never had the airbox even open since I bought it. Suppose I could at least look at it and maybe clean it the easy way, about 110psi and a air nozzle. Maybe I should spray it down with Tri-Flow afterwards so nothing sticks to the teflon coat eh, would save cleaning time down the road. (well its a thought, dunno how smart of one, but its a thought) Dooden A15 Green Ape (been seeing way too much garage time)

[Thane Silliker]

I use good ol' WD40 to clean foam filters. Wearinf rubber gloves, spraying it generously whilst kneading the filter. After wringing out the filter well, I soak and knead engine oil throughout the filter. At 06:37 PM 17/10/2003 -0000, patod02703 wrote:

> >As a kind of follow up to the 'how quickly does your oil turn black' >thread, I'm wondering how long before a clean foam air filter (a) >looks dirty and (b) is actually dirty? Or is it the case that if it >looks dirty, then it is?

Happy Trails from London, Canada Thane Silliker, CET, STOC #730 The ST1100 Sport / Grand Touring Motorcycle KLR650 Adventure Touring ST Owners Club Iron Butt Association Canadian Motorcycle Association 2001 Iron Butt Rally Gold Medal Cross Canada Record 59:45 http://www.silliker.ca

[Matthew Durtsche]

I use a spray on air filter oil by bel ray. It works great, and is so much easier and less messy then anything else. You can get quite a few lubes out of a 3 dollar bottle. -----Original Message----- From: Thane Silliker [mailto:tsilliker@...] Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 12:21 AM To: patod02703; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Air filters and such I use good ol' WD40 to clean foam filters. Wearinf rubber gloves, spraying it generously whilst kneading the filter. After wringing out the filter well, I soak and knead engine oil throughout the filter. At 06:37 PM 17/10/2003 -0000, patod02703 wrote:

> >As a kind of follow up to the 'how quickly does your oil turn black' >thread, I'm wondering how long before a clean foam air filter (a) >looks dirty and (b) is actually dirty? Or is it the case that if it >looks dirty, then it is?

Happy Trails from London, Canada Thane Silliker, CET, STOC #730 The ST1100 Sport / Grand Touring Motorcycle KLR650 Adventure Touring ST Owners Club Iron Butt Association Canadian Motorcycle Association 2001 Iron Butt Rally Gold Medal Cross Canada Record 59:45 http://www.silliker.ca List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[bigfatgreenbike@netscape.net]

kdxkawboy@... wrote:

>I'd stick with the 10W at the recommend height - measuring the oil height >from the top of the tube, springs out, forks collapsed is the only way to measure >oil. >If you still want stiffer dampening tray adding oil up to say 170 mm from the >top.

Oil height will affect bottoming resistance in the last fraction of fork travel. Switching from 190mm to 170mm will have zero effect at the top of the fork stroke. I say put in the progressive springs, and fresh 10w fork oil to 170mm level. If it's too soft, try putting a tablespoon of 90w gear oil in each leg. If you still want more dampening switch to 15W and normal height and add

>more oil if you still want it stiffer.

I've had two different sets of stock forks, they worked TOTALLY differently with exactly the same setup. There is considerable variation from one set of forks to another, so take any advice with a grain of salt and keep notes on what you change with your particular set. 15w was not stiff enough with my first set, and it was WAY too stiff with the 2nd. If at 170mm you still want stiffer I

>think its time to start looking at the Race Tech valves. >

Racetech "cartridge emulators" go on top of the damper rod, and provide the compression damping by a different method than the stock setup. These work very well, and I recommend them if you can't get a fork setup you are happy with otherwise. Installing them requires removing the damper rod and drilling holes in it. This can't be reversed, but I have a spare set of OEM damper rods that are yours for shipping cost if you go for the emulators. http://www.devonjarvisphoto.com/posted/emulators/installing_racetech_emulators_DRZ400S.html Devon -- Brooklyn '01 A15-Z KLR650 '81 SR500 __________________________________________________________________ McAfee VirusScan Online from the Netscape Network. Comprehensive protection for your entire computer. Get your free trial today! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/computing/mcafee/index.jsp?promo=393397 Get AOL Instant Messenger 5.1 free of charge. Download Now! http://aim.aol.com/aimnew/Aim/register.adp?promo=380455