moron nklr a little help..

DSN_KLR650
gyb@sprynet.com
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2000 9:21 pm

ready to buy, but.....!!!

Post by gyb@sprynet.com » Wed Sep 05, 2001 11:41 pm

> Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > recommendation how old?
I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper... ;-) I used to think that buying new bikes (or cars for that matter) was better, since it came with that warm and fuzzy "warranty" cushion to rely on. These days, with few exceptions, most bikes will do tens of thousands of miles without any major problems, often without any problems and with minimal maintenace. I bought my KLR used. It was (still is) cosmetically challenged. Looked like it had the minimum maintenance, but no more than that in it's first 9k. Changed the oil, filter, spark plug and adjusted the valves, and it runs as well as any KLR that was babied since new. I use it to ride off-road (something I had very little experience with before I bought it), so the appearance wasn't a concern. It was almost a given that I will be dropping it often, so a cheaper bike hurts much less when you drop it... ;-) Almost 5k later, it still runs without a problem. KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. Good luck, Gustavo

Devon Jarvis
Posts: 2322
Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am

ready to buy, but.....!!!

Post by Devon Jarvis » Thu Sep 06, 2001 9:19 am

Also, when they changed the balancer didn't the clutch basket change as well? The kickstarter kit won't fit post-'96 KLR? Devon A15 gyb@... wrote:
> > > Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > > recommendation how old? > > I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and > how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A > new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on > the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper... ;-) > > I used to think that buying new bikes (or cars for that matter) was > better, since it came with that warm and fuzzy "warranty" cushion > to rely on. These days, with few exceptions, most bikes will do > tens of thousands of miles without any major problems, often > without any problems and with minimal maintenace. > > I bought my KLR used. It was (still is) cosmetically challenged. > Looked like it had the minimum maintenance, but no more than > that in it's first 9k. Changed the oil, filter, spark plug and > adjusted the valves, and it runs as well as any KLR that was > babied since new. I use it to ride off-road (something I had very > little experience with before I bought it), so the appearance > wasn't a concern. It was almost a given that I will be dropping it > often, so a cheaper bike hurts much less when you drop it... ;-) > Almost 5k later, it still runs without a problem. > > KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > Good luck, > > Gustavo > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Arden Kysely
Posts: 1578
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2001 8:18 am

ready to buy, but.....!!!

Post by Arden Kysely » Thu Sep 06, 2001 9:45 am

I believe there is an extra plate in the newer clutches, and no more option for a kick starter even though the hole in the case is still there. They also lightened the flywheel a big to help it rev quicker. Arden Kysely A11 "Mr. K"
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote: > Also, when they changed the balancer didn't the clutch basket change as > well? The kickstarter kit won't fit post-'96 KLR? > > Devon > A15 > > gyb@s... wrote: > > > > > Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > > > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > > > recommendation how old? > > > > I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and > > how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A > > new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on > > the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper... ;-) > > > > I used to think that buying new bikes (or cars for that matter) was > > better, since it came with that warm and fuzzy "warranty" cushion > > to rely on. These days, with few exceptions, most bikes will do > > tens of thousands of miles without any major problems, often > > without any problems and with minimal maintenace. > > > > I bought my KLR used. It was (still is) cosmetically challenged. > > Looked like it had the minimum maintenance, but no more than > > that in it's first 9k. Changed the oil, filter, spark plug and > > adjusted the valves, and it runs as well as any KLR that was > > babied since new. I use it to ride off-road (something I had very > > little experience with before I bought it), so the appearance > > wasn't a concern. It was almost a given that I will be dropping it > > often, so a cheaper bike hurts much less when you drop it... ;-) > > Almost 5k later, it still runs without a problem. > > > > KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > > > Good luck, > > > > Gustavo > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Be part of the Adventure! > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > > > Post message: DSN_klr650@y... > > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@y... > > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@y... > > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Brad Davis
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am

ready to buy, but.....!!!

Post by Brad Davis » Thu Sep 06, 2001 7:49 pm

> KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > Good luck, > > Gustavo
Only two people report doing the engine balancer upgrade in the polls section. I was one of them. Brad

Brad Davis
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am

ready to buy, but.....!!!

Post by Brad Davis » Fri Sep 07, 2001 6:11 am

Todd, The poll question refers to the balancer SPRING upgrade.. Brad --- zootpatutie wrote:
> Is that the solid balancer upgrade from Eagle > Machine, and any guidance on > pitfalls or directions? I'd appreciate info before > I attempt this one. > Thanks > Todd > A3 > A9
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Bogdan Swider
Posts: 2759
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm

moron nklr a little help..

Post by Bogdan Swider » Fri Sep 07, 2001 12:33 pm

> Yes, especially for the hefty man-sized rider. > I used to bottom out my stocker all the time, but now I only bottom out > the > Progressive shock once or twice a day in the tuff stuff. > CA Stu > > -----Original Message----- > I'm also real curious on how you guys with the after market shocks are > liking > them off road. Is it like a day/night difference to the stocker? > > Scott > A14 "thunderdog" > Sorrento, Fl > >
I believe the most effective rear suspension mod (especially for the money) is a Progressive rear spring mated to the stock shock. Did wonders for this KLRister. $ 90 with postage from Hinksta Fred. Bogdan

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