What's happening... Update

[Paroor]

Hi Eric, Last year I converted my XPAG cylinder head to use led free fuel. They put new valve seat and the VW type I valves and valve guides. Cost 400 . I had a problem in my motorcycle with the valve guide. In stop and go drive the engine got heated and valve guide got stuck on the valve stem and the vale guide got loose in the Alu. cylinder head. I was lucky that cylinder head was not damaged. In case of motor cycle the valve guide was bronze or some other alloy. I turned a new over size valve guide in the lathe to fix every thing. Is there any possibility on our XPAG engine to happen some thing like that ? In case of poor lubrication ? The after market valve guides are of different material. Best regards Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von E.Worpe Gesendet: Freitag, 13. Mai 2005 10:21 Hi Terry, Your picture of the fractured valve stem suggests that the valve is made in two sections, the head and stem, and then friction welded together. This process relies on forcing the two parts together and then rotating just one part such that the friction raises the temperature to allow the surfaces to weld together. This is usually a reliable process if set up correctly, clearly not so in your case. If a faulty batch has been made, then it might be prudent to change the other valves. Regards, Eric. -----Original Message----- Well it is time for another update. Rather than bore you here I have posted a note up at the following link . Terry TC2285 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links

[Skip Kelsey]

Moss makes one piece S/S 21 4N exhaust valves. Skip............................................................ At 07:49 AM 5/13/2005 -0500, 1939mgtb wrote:

>Does anyone make stainless one-piece valves? Or are we still cutting down >other applications? >Best, >Ray >"Morology is our profession, >our ONLY profession!" >----- Original Message ----- >From: "E.Worpe" E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk> >To: "thorlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net>; "mg-tabc" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> >Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:21 AM >Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update > > > > Hi Terry, > > Your picture of the fractured valve stem suggests that the > > valve is made in two sections, the head and stem, and then > > friction welded together. This process relies on forcing the > > two parts together and then rotating just one part such that > > the friction raises the temperature to allow the surfaces to > > weld together. > > This is usually a reliable process if set up correctly, clearly > > not so in your case. If a faulty batch has been made, then it > > might be prudent to change the other valves. > > Regards, Eric. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > Well it is time for another update. Rather than bore you here I have > > posted a note up at the following link . > > > > Terry TC2285 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

[Peter Ross]

Eric & Terry, I had the same thing happen, with much more disastrous consequences, a few years ago. My exhaust valves, unbeknown to me, were of the welded type and I was then told of there having once been a bad batch. I had to change the whole engine! I'd definitely change them all. Cheers, Peter

----- Original Message ----- From: "E.Worpe" E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk> To: "thorlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net>; "mg-tabc" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 4:21 AM Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update > Hi Terry, > Your picture of the fractured valve stem suggests that the > valve is made in two sections, the head and stem, and then > friction welded together. This process relies on forcing the > two parts together and then rotating just one part such that > the friction raises the temperature to allow the surfaces to > weld together. > This is usually a reliable process if set up correctly, clearly > not so in your case. If a faulty batch has been made, then it > might be prudent to change the other valves. > Regards, Eric. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Well it is time for another update. Rather than bore you here I have > posted a note up at the following link . > > Terry TC2285 > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Peter Ross]

I used stainless valves in my replacement engine, but my latest quest for valves indicates they are in short supply. My supplier (Brown & Gammons) tell me there isn't the demand any longer to warrant having another batch made. Cheers, Peter (starting to read 4-day-old mail)

----- Original Message ----- From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> To: "thorlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net>; "mg-tabc" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>; "E.Worpe" E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:49 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update > Does anyone make stainless one-piece valves? Or are we still cutting down > other applications? > Best, > Ray > "Morology is our profession, > our ONLY profession!" > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "E.Worpe" E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk> > To: "thorlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net>; "mg-tabc" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:21 AM > Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update > > > > Hi Terry, > > Your picture of the fractured valve stem suggests that the > > valve is made in two sections, the head and stem, and then > > friction welded together. This process relies on forcing the > > two parts together and then rotating just one part such that > > the friction raises the temperature to allow the surfaces to > > weld together. > > This is usually a reliable process if set up correctly, clearly > > not so in your case. If a faulty batch has been made, then it > > might be prudent to change the other valves. > > Regards, Eric. > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > Well it is time for another update. Rather than bore you here I have > > posted a note up at the following link . > > > > Terry TC2285 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Peter Ross]

Madhu, I have been using stainless valves running in bronze guides in my Laystall aluminium head for 4 racing seasons. Including one air cooled half a lap when a core plug departed whence a piston siezed before anything else. Cheers, Peter

----- Original Message ----- From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> To: "E.Worpe" E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk>; "thorlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net>; "mg-tabc" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 9:09 AM Subject: AW: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update > Hi Eric, > Last year I converted my XPAG cylinder head to use led free fuel. > They put new valve seat and the VW type I valves and valve guides. Cost > 400?. > I had a problem in my motorcycle with the valve guide. In stop and go drive > the engine got heated and valve guide got stuck on the valve stem and the > vale guide got loose in the Alu. cylinder head. I was lucky that cylinder > head was not damaged. In case of motor cycle the valve guide was bronze or > some other alloy. I turned a new over size valve guide in the lathe to fix > every thing. > > Is there any possibility on our XPAG engine to happen some thing like that ? > In case of poor lubrication ? > The after market valve guides are of different material. > Best regards > Madhu > > -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag > von E.Worpe > Gesendet: Freitag, 13. Mai 2005 10:21 > > Hi Terry, > Your picture of the fractured valve stem suggests that the > valve is made in two sections, the head and stem, and then > friction welded together. This process relies on forcing the > two parts together and then rotating just one part such that > the friction raises the temperature to allow the surfaces to > weld together. > This is usually a reliable process if set up correctly, clearly > not so in your case. If a faulty batch has been made, then it > might be prudent to change the other valves. > Regards, Eric. > > -----Original Message----- > Well it is time for another update. Rather than bore you here I have > posted a note up at the following link . > > Terry TC2285 > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Paroor]

Why not try the VW type I valves ? They fit. Quality and price is good. Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von Peter Ross Gesendet: Mittwoch, 18. Mai 2005 04:20 I used stainless valves in my replacement engine, but my latest quest for valves indicates they are in short supply. My supplier (Brown & Gammons) tell me there isn't the demand any longer to warrant having another batch made. Cheers, Peter

[TMcNam4510@aol.com]

Hey Madhu, I comin in late on this but.............am I to understand that VW type 1 valves fit directly into our XPAG's? If so, does anone know the part numbers? Surprised, Tom TC 2850 (disassembled) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Paroor]

Hi Tom, TC 0448 cylinder head is converted for led free fuel. They used VW Type 1 valves, valve guides and Valve seat. I had to get the detail from my mechanic who assembled my XPAG with Volvo oil seal for me. If you want I can get the detail from him or from the machine shop fixing cylinder head. Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: TMcnam4510@aol.com [mailto:TMcnam4510@aol.com] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 18. Mai 2005 20:41 An: paroor@t-online.de; boltonmg@comcast.net; thorlick@sbcglobal.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com; E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk; 1939mgtb@comcast.net Betreff: Re: AW: [mg-tabc] Re: What's happening... Update Hey Madhu, I comin in late on this but.............am I to understand that VW type 1 valves fit directly into our XPAG's? If so, does anone know the part numbers? Surprised, Tom TC 2850 (disassembled) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Paroor]

Dear All, I was not able to get the information from my mechanic. So I rang up two other shops. These are the primary information I have at present. I will try to get more details if any one wants. VW inlet valve is 35,5 mm and the item number in VW shop is - 33009 - VW outlet valve is 32 mm and the item number in VW shop is - 33008 - VW valve shaft oil seal ? I did not get the item number. 8 mm diameter, hard chrome plated, cost is about 10 to 12 ( will let you know the exact price. Some shops are using a special hard bronze to make valve guides. I had to get details about the vale guides. Very often the valve is Exchanged against the VW valve, while led-free fuel conversion is done the cylinder head. So every thing goes through one hand. They charge 400 to 500 . As I understand there are minor work to be done on the vale seating washer / valve spring collar to accommodate oil seal. They use the VW valve cotters and valve shaft silicon oil seal. They clamed it to be much better. The new Golf they are using this type of cotters and oil seal. The Vale seats are imported from US. I was not able to find out the manufacturer. Madhu