my travel list? yours???? & "there's"

[RobertWichert]

How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in there, and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb first and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop around the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a pain. -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

[RobertWichert]

Oh my! I followed the manual! Silly me... I did learn a lot about the sub-frame, the rubber boot, where the gas lines go, how the coil is mounted, where the dirt hides, and lots more FUN FACTS about my KLR. Like how to remove the muffler (That's a heavy bugger. Let's see... www.supertrapp.com may have some ideas....) But no, I did not realize that the manual was that far wrong. I should have asked here first, I guess. Thanks for the spanking Kevin... Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/4/2012 6:28 AM, Kevin Powers wrote: > Umm, you know you didn't have to do that to replace the shock, > right? From the FAQ: > *To remove the shock, do I really need to remove the battery, > subframe, etc.?* > No. Jack up the bike so the rear wheel is off the ground, and slip a > board under the tire to support it. Disconnect the links from the > bottom of the shock, and remove the bolt at the top (the nut is welded > on the other side). The shock can be dropped out through the > underside of the bike. > > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN > > On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 8:19 AM, RobertWichert > wrote: > > How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the > airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in there, > and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, > including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb > first > and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop around > the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of > rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? > > I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a pain. > > -- > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 04 Apr 2012 06:19:21 -0700 RobertWichert writes:

> How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the > airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in > there, > and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, > > including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb > first > and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop > around > the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of > rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? > > I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a > pain. > -- > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Robert, Sounds like you are doing the rear shock the hard way. It should only take about 15 minutes to change out. The upper mount nut is captured so you can remove the upper bolt from the left side. -All you do to change the rear shock is support the bike with weight off the rear wheel. -Remove the dog bone links. -Remove the bottom shock mount bolt. -Remove the upper shock bolt. -Lift the rear wheel/swing arm to make clearance to lower the shock out the bottom of the bike. -Reverse steps to install the new shock. I haven't personally had to mess with the intake boot to air box connection but have read of a few people that have had issues with it. If I was messing with it I'd mount the intake to the air box first. I think a guy could clean both parts well with alcohol and then use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue it in place. I think there might be an indexing (timing/clocking) issue but don't remember for sure. Check to see if that's the side of the carb with a notch to match the rubber part. If so it will have to be properly placed. Once the rubber is glued in place maybe put a very light coat of grease/oil on the carb mounting surface and use a hot air gun to warm the rubber part. Then gently work the softened more flexible rubber around the carb mounting area. Might be worth cleaning the carb while you have it out. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 57 Year Old Looks 27 Local Woman Reveals Wrinkle Secret That Has Doctors Angry. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f7c5820df71c15e57st06vuc

[RobertWichert]

You're right, Jeff, I'm doing it by the manual (AKA The Hard Way). I had a long talk with Fred about why they would say to do it like that, and neither of us had a hard reason. It "might" be to avoid taking the dog bones off. You don't need to do that with their method. I also think that it lets you get at the nuts and bolts with a torque wrench, which I believe is more difficult without taking everything off and opening up the frame, but Fred says he can get a torque wrench on it his way, so there you go! They say to take the battery out, and that looks like a total waste of time since the airbox/battery box is still in the same place. I think part of the issue with the rubber boot was that it sat for two days with the rubber boot squished between the frame and it took a bad set. A heat gun might have helped, but I used a screwdriver. You said "gently", well, I beat it into place. I'm like that. I also took it off the airbox to see if it was easier to put it on the carb first. It wasn't. Because, yes, there is a keyway on the airbox and a key on the boot that need to be aligned. It's pretty much back together now. I'm just looking for gorilla snot to glop it up. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/4/2012 7:12 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Wed, 04 Apr 2012 06:19:21 -0700 RobertWichert > writes: >> How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the >> airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in >> there, >> and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, >> >> including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb >> first >> and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop >> around >> the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of >> rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? >> >> I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a >> pain. >> -- >> Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C >> +1 916 966 9060 >> FAX +1 916 966 9068 > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Robert, > > Sounds like you are doing the rear shock the hard way. It should only > take about 15 minutes to change out. > > The upper mount nut is captured so you can remove the upper bolt from the > left side. > > -All you do to change the rear shock is support the bike with weight off > the rear wheel. > > -Remove the dog bone links. > > -Remove the bottom shock mount bolt. > > -Remove the upper shock bolt. > > -Lift the rear wheel/swing arm to make clearance to lower the shock out > the bottom of the bike. > > -Reverse steps to install the new shock. > > I haven't personally had to mess with the intake boot to air box > connection but have read of a few people that have had issues with it. > If I was messing with it I'd mount the intake to the air box first. I > think a guy could clean both parts well with alcohol and then use 3M > weatherstrip adhesive to glue it in place. I think there might be an > indexing (timing/clocking) issue but don't remember for sure. Check to > see if that's the side of the carb with a notch to match the rubber part. > If so it will have to be properly placed. > > Once the rubber is glued in place maybe put a very light coat of > grease/oil on the carb mounting surface and use a hot air gun to warm the > rubber part. Then gently work the softened more flexible rubber around > the carb mounting area. > > Might be worth cleaning the carb while you have it out. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > ____________________________________________________________ > 57 Year Old Looks 27 > Local Woman Reveals Wrinkle Secret That Has Doctors Angry. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f7c5820e1a5415bc9st01vuc > > >

[Kevin Powers]

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 10:05 AM, RobertWichert wrote:

> ** > > > You said "gently", well, I beat it into place. I'm like that. >

My brother! I hear Harbor Freight is having a sale on "fine adjustment tools". -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

OK, it's back together. With: Nicely repainted muffler (love that stock muffler!); freshly torqued nuts, bolts and washers; lots of nice red Loctite (I know it's not the right type to use, don't waste your breath); VERY clean side covers, inside and out; New Progressive Shock (the reason for the whole deal); and I learned a lot too. I learned: 1. The sidestand switch is a kludge of impressive proportions, designed by Rubus H. Goldberg II no doubt. Use a CABLE from a lever to move a SPRING LOADED lever to actuate a SWITCH? Really? And mount it so that it explodes if you remove it? And hide it behind a sleazy plastic piece held by a screw and a slot? Nice work! I had half an idea to throw the whole mess away. 2. The proper routing of the various vacuum hoses that service the CALIFORNIAN EDITION. 3. That the rear brake fluid reservoir has a backing plate. 4. That the rubber boot between the carb and the airbox doesn't like me. And so much more! The Progressive shock is supposed to be one inch shorter than stock, and I switched to one-inch lowering links, so it theoretically should be the same height as with the two inch lowering links, but the lean angle on the sidestand says it's higher than before. Haven't ridden it yet. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/4/2012 6:19 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > > How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the > airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in there, > and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, > including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb first > and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop around > the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of > rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? > > I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a pain. > > -- > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tim Pruitt]

Yep, I've known of "minimalist" hikers or backpackers doing that too, it get's old fast. From: mark ward To: "achesley43@..." ; Ron Criswell Cc: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 2, 2012 9:22 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re:My Travel List? Yours???? & "THERE'S" DIDO, I pack EXTRA, but it always seems, I use some of what I thought I would not need, and not use some of what I thought was a MUST. Some friends in my street riding/dualsport club (Ridmotorcycle.com) Pac little to nothing, Then ALWAYS NEED TO "BORROW" Something. Yet BITCH that I carry to much. I asked one guy, ut what if you need ######?? His responce,...... I always, get by as a minimalist, (NO tools, straps, NO Food, ETC ETC. BESIDE'S, IF I REALY NEED ANYTHING, SOMEONE ELSE!!!!.... USUALY HAS, WHAT WHAT EVER I MAY NEED. I just started telling him (them) NOPE, I Don't have "IT",.... this ride, I started taking YOUR ADVISE. (SHHHH. I have 3 in my side bag.) 1 refuses to evn get saddle bags. "mess's up the LOOK up My bike" So every trip he has others haul his shit.

--- On Mon, 4/2/12, Ron Criswell wrote: From: Ron Criswell Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: My Travel List? Yours???? To: "achesley43@..." Cc: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, April 2, 2012, 12:41 PM I carry a Starbucks bottled Mocha and a bag of Corn Nuts (breakfast of Champions). Cheetos and a Coke will work in a pinch. I have various surfer/ mermaids icons zip tied to my handlebars to ward off flats. I have a Milagro Cross that I carry if things look dicey and deer are around. Seriously, I carry waaaay too much stuff in my tailbag. I could probably do an engine tare down on the side of the road. I don't carry too much clothes like undies. Dogs like me. Criswell Sent from my iPad On Apr 2, 2012, at 5:36 AM, "achesley43@..." wrote: > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "eddie" wrote: > > > > There has been some talk on this newsgroup about long trip so I post below my Travel List. How does it compare to yours? Note that I brake down what I carry based on the rooms in a house. > > > > > So, what do you carry? > > > > Eddie > > > I keep mine simple. Don't camp no more, stopped that at 62 years old, so all that stuff is out. > Tank Bag W/ > Map of area > water bag, tube and bite valve > notebook and a couple ball points > Camera > .380 Auto > ear plugs > mp3 player with ear buds > > Top box gets > Chain lube > Tool kit > Tire repair kit and pump > umbrella > rain gear > assorted stuff > > One Givi bag gets 2 pair of jeans > 3 t shirts > 2 long sleeve t shirts > 2 pair of shorts > 2 pair of socks > ( Wash the shorts and socks and t shirts every night and dry them in the micro wave inthe room when available. > > One Givi bag get electric vest and gloves with wiring > shoes > laptop computer > 2 towels > assorted stuff. > > on the handle bars > radar detector > GPS > > generally use motel laundry services about once a week when available. > Carry about the same stuff on either bike The KLR or the 1250S bandit. Just soft saddlebags on the KLR vs PLX givi on the Bandit. > > Andy Chesley > Jennings, La. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]