steering play

[david.r.nichols@sbcglobal.net]

Will a 2008 and up skid plate I found for sale on Craigslist fit a 2007? The seller says no, but I'm pretty sure the frame and engine is the same in this area.

[Fred Hink]

The skid plate is the same except you will need a spacer and longer U bolt for the front mount. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: david.r.nichols@... Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 5:44 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Skid plate question. Will a 2008 and up skid plate I found for sale on Craigslist fit a 2007? The seller says no, but I'm pretty sure the frame and engine is the same in this area. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeffrey]

Agreed. Either the top or the bottom triple clamp can be loosened; As long as one is free to move. BUT, THE TOP HAS TO COME OFF TO GET TO THE UPPER STEERING BEARING(repack); though NOT FOR SIMPLE ADJUSTMENT. There are different ways to adjust the bearing. I did mine so the steering would continue turning from center if I started it turning with my pinky. Any tighter and there would be binding and could have steering problems if the bearing heats up. But, with copious amounts of fresh waterproof grease, I doubt that the steering bearings will heat up much for the next 8 years. J#3 Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: steering play It shouldn't matter which set of pinch bolts get loosened when adjsuting the bearing nut as long as the steering stem is allowed to move to compress or realx the tension on the bearings. That's with the bike supported so the front wheel is only just off the ground or perhaps slightly touching. The uppers are just easier to reach. Say you are working at home, in your driveay. You've got the KLR on the center stand or a rear swingarm stand, the handlebars removed and the top triple clamp taken off to get at the adjustment nut that lives under it. Loosening the lower triple clamp bolts at this point isn't necessary. There's nothing to keep the lower triple clamp and it's built-in steering stem tube from moving upward as you snug the bearing nut. Oppositely, if you remove the nut at this point to repack the bearings, the forks can(will) slip out of place if you place a jack under the bike and lift it up an inch or so. I placed a block of wood ahead of the wheel to prevent mine from disasterously falling out completely and used this time to pack as much waterproof grease as possible in both upper and lower bearings. Getting the top inner race and adjustment nut back in place was a small struggle single-handedly. But, it was doable. Once in place, I tightened the nut to the spot where it was originally (I marked it) and then gave it a slight nudge more with a punch and hammer. (maybe 1/4 of an inch, tops) Thus tightened, I reinstalled the upper clamp, chrome nut, pinch bolts and handlebars and checked the steering free play. It was to my liking - so the project was complete. eddie