ama dual sport ride

[bryanonfire]

Hi, Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is less than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, it's far less, maybe around a sixteenth. Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive movement can be felt..." The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front to back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that amount of play acceptable? If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel tank but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. It looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't have the tool in hand yet. Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner wrench? Thanks in advance for any advice, Bryan

[dat brooklyn bum]

If you felt the play, tighten your nut. And you don't need no steenking pin spanner wrench. Use a drift and a punch. Loosen the nut on top of the steering stem first. Get it to where there is a very slight drag on the steering. da Vermonster

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bryanonfire" wrote: > > Hi, > > Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. > > Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is less than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, it's far less, maybe around a sixteenth. > > Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive movement can be felt..." > > The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." > > So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front to back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that amount of play acceptable? > > If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel tank but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. It looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't have the tool in hand yet. > > Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner wrench? > > Thanks in advance for any advice, > > Bryan >

[klrdon@comcast.net]

Do you get shaking in the front end when you grab the front brakes? That was one symptom I had, but I had a lot of play when investigated. Removing the tank is probably to make sure no paint is harmed in the process. Pad the tank if you care. Don M -----Original Message----- From: bryanonfire Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2011 3:16 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] steering play Hi, Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is less than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, it's far less, maybe around a sixteenth. Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive movement can be felt..." The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front to back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that amount of play acceptable? If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel tank but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. It looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't have the tool in hand yet. Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner wrench? Thanks in advance for any advice, Bryan ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4674 - Release Date: 12/11/11

[RobertWichert]

Maybe somebody else gave the answers from their viewpoint, mine is "It needs to be tight". I had a front-end wobble that went away when I tightened the steering head bearings "more than stock". Fixed it like a light switch. It only happened when I switched tires, but tightening the bearings made it all go away. So, if it was me, if it moves at all, it needs to be tightened. The wrench is the hard part, for sure, but you "can" use other methods. I bought a wrench, actually I bought three or four wrenches. My recollection is that Sears has a good set that works. You do not need to removed the tank, but you do need to remove (not totally, just move it forward out of the way) the handlebars. It's best to follow the procedure in the service manual and BE SURE TO LOOSEN THE LOWER CLAMP NUTS. Easy fix... Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/11/2011 12:16 PM, bryanonfire wrote: > > Hi, > > Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to > checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in > the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion > there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. > > Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is less > than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, it's > far less, maybe around a sixteenth. > > Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, > tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive > movement can be felt..." > > The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." > > So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front to > back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that amount > of play acceptable? > > If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel tank > but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. It > looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't have > the tool in hand yet. > > Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner wrench? > > Thanks in advance for any advice, > > Bryan > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeffrey]

I have to lube my steering bearings--they are overdue. My steering play is adjusted well. I will try and mark it so I can just put it back where it is. J#

[Jeffrey]

I didn't take it all apart. I tried to do it the shortcut way. Didn't completely remove instruments or handlebars. Almost forgot to disconnect speedo cable. With my forks tubes tweaked a little, it was harder to get back together. MY 04 KLR STEERING BEARINGS SURPRISINGLY CAME WITH PLENTY OF GREASE FROM THE FACTORY! However, it was time to clean out the old grease and put in new grease. The upper bearing grease was dirtier than the lower bearing grease. Though the bottom steering bearing had a touch of rust color to it, the grease looked OK...didn't quite make sense. My rear suspension came with much less grease, but it was easier to do than the front steering bearings. J#3

[dooden]

What he said below, might be easier to remove the bars to loose the jam nut, I would also loosen the top triple clamps on the forks also so when you snug the steering stem, this will allow for the clamps to adjust also. Good time to adjust handlebar position also, I prefer mine tilted forward. Tighten it all back up when done. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "dat brooklyn bum" wrote: > > If you felt the play, tighten your nut. And you don't need no steenking pin spanner wrench. Use a drift and a punch. Loosen the nut on top of the steering stem first. Get it to where there is a very slight drag on the steering. > > da Vermonster > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bryanonfire" wrote: > > > > Hi, > > > > Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. > > > > Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is less than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, it's far less, maybe around a sixteenth. > > > > Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive movement can be felt..." > > > > The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." > > > > So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front to back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that amount of play acceptable? > > > > If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel tank but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. It looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't have the tool in hand yet. > > > > Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner wrench? > > > > Thanks in advance for any advice, > > > > Bryan > > >

[david zawadzki]

Wow. Never seen this before

On 12/13/11, revmaaatin wrote: > Mark-- > I don't know anything about Ohio, but it I lived there, this is what I would > do: > > Invent your own! > Start here: > > http://www.amazon.com/Ohio-Atlas-Gazetteer-Delorme/dp/0899332811/ref=sr_1_14?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1323753985&sr=1-14 > > $13.57 if you are part of Amazon Prime. > > if this link does not work, google Delorme gazetteer, > Select Ohio. > While you are at it, get the surrounding states as well. > > Do a map study, > copy the panels (make 2) near your home and start with every gravel road. > THE HOW: > Make a 'strip-map' of one copy that is only ~4 to 6 inches wide along where > you want to ride (keep the second copy so you can find your way home if you > ride off the map). I suggest you leave the original at home as they will > quickly fall apart while dual sporting...Aerostitch makes a ziplock bag the > size of an entire DeLorme map set. etc > > anyway-- > after your map study, > Do and expanding line from near your home or start point; > explore every secondary or teriary road. There may not be much gravel > roads, but there will be plent of farm to market roads once you get away > from the city. > > Using this technnique, > I now have a 2/3 or an E-W trek what I call, > [the Central Trans S. Dakota Ride; = Huron,SD to the Wyoming border] across > the state of SD that is completly gravel more or less; some short paved > sections becuase you have to cross a couple of rivers. > Some parts are inpassable when wet. shrug. > Some parts nearly impassable when dry! > Some roads that were gravel 7 years ago are now under water due to the high > snow fall...3 years ago! Still under water! > Some of it is prairie trail; read: grass > Some of completly dirt; read dirt with glacial rocks of various sizes. > > Its all fun. > > No, I don't have the tacks ready to publish just yet. > Two posters, Jud Jones and AJ Clifford have ridden chuncks of it with me; > others who remain nameless have been invited as well! > > Additional map sources are county maps. > They can ususally be found at the specific county court house if you are > there when they are open. > Some states publish the public hunting area guide which is also a free > source for gravel roads; albeit, [some] not in very good detail. > > revmaaatin. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "marknavy13" wrote: >> >> Anyone know of a good organized Dual Sport ride near Ohio that is do able >> on a 650? >> > > >

[RobertWichert]

I find it necessary to remove the bars, but not the cables. I would NOT loosen the upper triple clamp nuts. ONLY loosen the lower triple clamp nuts. This is what the manual says and it makes sense. You are reacting the upper against the lower and you want to raise the lower to take up slack in the bearing. I have done this maybe five or six times, tighter each time. Works great! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/13/2011 2:05 AM, Dooden wrote: > > What he said below, might be easier to remove the bars to loose the > jam nut, I would also loosen the top triple clamps on the forks also > so when you snug the steering stem, this will allow for the clamps to > adjust also. > > Good time to adjust handlebar position also, I prefer mine tilted forward. > > Tighten it all back up when done. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , "dat brooklyn bum" > wrote: > > > > If you felt the play, tighten your nut. And you don't need no > steenking pin spanner wrench. Use a drift and a punch. Loosen the nut > on top of the steering stem first. Get it to where there is a very > slight drag on the steering. > > > > da Vermonster > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , "bryanonfire" wrote: > > > > > > Hi, > > > > > > Going through the routine maintenance check list, when I came to > checking the steering and bearings I felt a little front-back play in > the forks. Side-to-side the steering checks out fine, and in motion > there is no shaking or chatter from the steering. > > > > > > Gripping the forks just above the axle, the fore-aft movement is > less than a quarter inch but probably more than an eigth. At the stem, > it's far less, maybe around a sixteenth. > > > > > > Clymer says first, "if movement can be felt at the steering stem, > tighten up the steering..." and then goes on to say "If no excessive > movement can be felt..." > > > > > > The factory manual just says "if play is felt..." > > > > > > So, before I go out shopping for a stem nut wrench, how much front > to back play is too much? Do I need to tighten it up, or is that > amount of play acceptable? > > > > > > If I do need to adjust, Clymer doesn't mention removing the fuel > tank but the factory book does. Mine's a 2003 with about 18,500 miles. > It looks like I can get in to the nut with the tank on, but I don't > have the tool in hand yet. > > > > > > Finally, where does one get the stem nut wrench, aka pin spanner > wrench? > > > > > > Thanks in advance for any advice, > > > > > > Bryan > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeffrey]

But, to get to the upper bearing and race and bottom bearing and race to clean out the old dirty grease(and there was plenty from the factory surprisingly) and to clean and repack the bearings, DON'T YOU HAVE TO LOOSEN THE UPPER TRIPLE CLAMP? I had already adjusted the steering bearings a couple of times. At over 35K miles it was time to repack. If I didn't do this, I imagine that I would be having to change bearing and races within 10k miles which would have been much more hassle. J#3