questions, now guns nklr

[judjonzz]

A couple of weeks ago, my KLR speedometer failed in the middle of a ride. An inspection revealed that the corner had broken off the lug on the fork leg that engages a notch on the speedo drive. That in turn allowed the speedo drive to rotate, pulling the ferrule on the drive cable right out of the cap that screws down onto the drive. The cable inner was nowhere to be found. Has anybody seen a failure like this before? Some back story: A couple of weeks earlier, the bike was knocked over in a parking lot. The car driver's insurer had already settled with me for the cosmetic damage to front fender, saddle bag and Rally Pro lever guard. When the adjuster came out to pay me for a new helmet and collect the old one that had been sitting on the RH mirror, I showed him the damage to the cable and the fork leg. For the first time, I noticed a couple of scratches to the LH fork leg that looked like the probable point of impact with the SUV's bumper. According to the driver, the impact was at a very low speed when he let his parked car roll forward on a slight gradient. Could the impact to the left fork leg have weakened or cracked the lug, setting it up to fail at a later time? It strikes me a a pretty tenuous chain of events, and the adjuster agreed.OTOH, I have never seen a fork leg fail in this way, and I can't think of how else it might have happened. The solution the adjuster came up with was to pay me for parts and labor to replace the scratched left leg, knowing full well that if I replace anything, it will be the right leg. Next question. What repair would you suggest to the RH fork leg? The missing chunk of metal is about 1/8" by 1/4, the eighth inch being the apex of the lug, the portion that engages the speedo drive. A bead of aluminum weld ground to fit would probably be the best. Do you think JB Weld would hold? What third-world expedients might also serve to keep the speedo drive from rotating? I don't intend to replace any of the body parts. If I can fix the speedo drive without buying a fork leg, the insurance should be enough to buy a new gun, either a handgun or a .22 rifle. CZ75 or 1911? Ruger 10/22, CZ455 or CZ 512?

[Jeff Khoury]

Well, as far as the new handgun goes, I have a CZ-75B and I absolutely LOVE it. I think it's one of the best value buys in handguns right now. It's well-made, very reliable and VERY accurate right out of the box. With about 15 minutes of tuning, Here's what you can expect: http://www.facebook.com/v/1555499883719

----- Original Message ----- From: "judjonzz" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 9:33:05 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Questions, questions, questions? A couple of weeks ago, my KLR speedometer failed in the middle of a ride. An inspection revealed that the corner had broken off the lug on the fork leg that engages a notch on the speedo drive. That in turn allowed the speedo drive to rotate, pulling the ferrule on the drive cable right out of the cap that screws down onto the drive. The cable inner was nowhere to be found. Has anybody seen a failure like this before? Some back story: A couple of weeks earlier, the bike was knocked over in a parking lot. The car driver's insurer had already settled with me for the cosmetic damage to front fender, saddle bag and Rally Pro lever guard. When the adjuster came out to pay me for a new helmet and collect the old one that had been sitting on the RH mirror, I showed him the damage to the cable and the fork leg. For the first time, I noticed a couple of scratches to the LH fork leg that looked like the probable point of impact with the SUV's bumper. According to the driver, the impact was at a very low speed when he let his parked car roll forward on a slight gradient. Could the impact to the left fork leg have weakened or cracked the lug, setting it up to fail at a later time? It strikes me a a pretty tenuous chain of events, and the adjuster agreed.OTOH, I have never seen a fork leg fail in this way, and I can't think of how else it might have happened. The solution the adjuster came up with was to pay me for parts and labor to replace the scratched left leg, knowing full well that if I replace anything, it will be the right leg. Next question. What repair would you suggest to the RH fork leg? The missing chunk of metal is about 1/8" by 1/4, the eighth inch being the apex of the lug, the portion that engages the speedo drive. A bead of aluminum weld ground to fit would probably be the best. Do you think JB Weld would hold? What third-world expedients might also serve to keep the speedo drive from rotating? I don't intend to replace any of the body parts. If I can fix the speedo drive without buying a fork leg, the insurance should be enough to buy a new gun, either a handgun or a .22 rifle. CZ75 or 1911? Ruger 10/22, CZ455 or CZ 512?

[Fred Hink]

I believe your tight axle will keep the speedometer drive from rotating. That lug on your fork leg is for locating the correct position of the speedometer drive and the axle is what holds it from turning. It sounds like you might have had something wrong in the drive to cause it to turn and break off this lug. But anything is possible in an accident. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: judjonzz Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 10:33 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Questions, questions, questions? A couple of weeks ago, my KLR speedometer failed in the middle of a ride. An inspection revealed that the corner had broken off the lug on the fork leg that engages a notch on the speedo drive. That in turn allowed the speedo drive to rotate, pulling the ferrule on the drive cable right out of the cap that screws down onto the drive. The cable inner was nowhere to be found. Has anybody seen a failure like this before? Some back story: A couple of weeks earlier, the bike was knocked over in a parking lot. The car driver's insurer had already settled with me for the cosmetic damage to front fender, saddle bag and Rally Pro lever guard. When the adjuster came out to pay me for a new helmet and collect the old one that had been sitting on the RH mirror, I showed him the damage to the cable and the fork leg. For the first time, I noticed a couple of scratches to the LH fork leg that looked like the probable point of impact with the SUV's bumper. According to the driver, the impact was at a very low speed when he let his parked car roll forward on a slight gradient. Could the impact to the left fork leg have weakened or cracked the lug, setting it up to fail at a later time? It strikes me a a pretty tenuous chain of events, and the adjuster agreed.OTOH, I have never seen a fork leg fail in this way, and I can't think of how else it might have happened. The solution the adjuster came up with was to pay me for parts and labor to replace the scratched left leg, knowing full well that if I replace anything, it will be the right leg. Next question. What repair would you suggest to the RH fork leg? The missing chunk of metal is about 1/8" by 1/4, the eighth inch being the apex of the lug, the portion that engages the speedo drive. A bead of aluminum weld ground to fit would probably be the best. Do you think JB Weld would hold? What third-world expedients might also serve to keep the speedo drive from rotating? I don't intend to replace any of the body parts. If I can fix the speedo drive without buying a fork leg, the insurance should be enough to buy a new gun, either a handgun or a .22 rifle. CZ75 or 1911? Ruger 10/22, CZ455 or CZ 512? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 15 Nov 2011 17:33:05 -0000 "judjonzz" writes:

> Could the impact to the left fork leg have weakened or cracked the > lug, setting it up to fail at a later time? > Next question. What repair would you suggest to the RH fork leg? The > missing chunk of metal is about 1/8" by 1/4, the eighth inch being > the apex of the lug, the portion that engages the speedo drive. A > bead of aluminum weld ground to fit would probably be the best. Do > you think JB Weld would hold? What third-world expedients might also > serve to keep the speedo drive from rotating?

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Jud, I haven't seen that situation before. I doubt the tip over did the damage. I think it would be pretty easy for a decent welder to add some metal to the leg. Because of the location on the assembly I don't think the fork would even have to be taken apart for the welding. Once the metal is added I think a guy could reshape it in about 10 minutes with an abrasive disk or flap wheel and a file. If you are going to go with the welding do clean the area but do not use brake cleaner. Acetone would be a good chemical to help get that area clean. Allow the welder to do any metal removal/prep prior to welding. I don't think JB Weld would be worth the effort. I do think Fred has it nailed that when properly assembled the axle will keep the speedo drive housing from moving. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

[Jud]

Nice shooting. I doubt I can shoot anything that well. A lot of people consider it the best 9mm at any price. I just like the CZs I already have, which a friend sold me because I was the only guy around riding CZ motorcycles, and he thought I ought to have them.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > Well, as far as the new handgun goes, I have a CZ-75B and I absolutely LOVE it. I think it's one of the best value buys in handguns right now. It's well-made, very reliable and VERY accurate right out of the box. With about 15 minutes of tuning, Here's what you can expect: > > http://www.facebook.com/v/1555499883719 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "judjonzz" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 9:33:05 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Questions, questions, questions? > > > > > > > A couple of weeks ago, my KLR speedometer failed in the middle of a ride. An inspection revealed that the corner had broken off the lug on the fork leg that engages a notch on the speedo drive. That in turn allowed the speedo drive to rotate, pulling the ferrule on the drive cable right out of the cap that screws down onto the drive. The cable inner was nowhere to be found. Has anybody seen a failure like this before? > > Some back story: A couple of weeks earlier, the bike was knocked over in a parking lot. The car driver's insurer had already settled with me for the cosmetic damage to front fender, saddle bag and Rally Pro lever guard. When the adjuster came out to pay me for a new helmet and collect the old one that had been sitting on the RH mirror, I showed him the damage to the cable and the fork leg. For the first time, I noticed a couple of scratches to the LH fork leg that looked like the probable point of impact with the SUV's bumper. According to the driver, the impact was at a very low speed when he let his parked car roll forward on a slight gradient. > > Could the impact to the left fork leg have weakened or cracked the lug, setting it up to fail at a later time? It strikes me a a pretty tenuous chain of events, and the adjuster agreed.OTOH, I have never seen a fork leg fail in this way, and I can't think of how else it might have happened. > > The solution the adjuster came up with was to pay me for parts and labor to replace the scratched left leg, knowing full well that if I replace anything, it will be the right leg. > > Next question. What repair would you suggest to the RH fork leg? The missing chunk of metal is about 1/8" by 1/4, the eighth inch being the apex of the lug, the portion that engages the speedo drive. A bead of aluminum weld ground to fit would probably be the best. Do you think JB Weld would hold? What third-world expedients might also serve to keep the speedo drive from rotating? > > I don't intend to replace any of the body parts. If I can fix the speedo drive without buying a fork leg, the insurance should be enough to buy a new gun, either a handgun or a .22 rifle. CZ75 or 1911? Ruger 10/22, CZ455 or CZ 512? >

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Nah, the HK P7 series is the sweetest-shooting 9mm tack driver at any price right out of the box. Once you get a few of these, you'll dump all your other 9mm pistols like I did. Anyway, if it comes down to replacing a fork lower, I'll sell you one real cheap, like say, $40 shipped since we go way back. Mark At 7:28 PM +0000 11/15/11, Jud wrote: Nice shooting. I doubt I can shoot anything that well. A lot of people consider it the best 9mm at any price. I just like the CZs I already have, which a friend sold me because I was the only guy around riding CZ motorcycles, and he thought I ought to have them. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:

> > Well, as far as the new handgun goes, I have a CZ-75B and I >absolutely LOVE it. I think it's one of the best value buys in >handguns right now. It's well-made, very reliable and VERY accurate >right out of the box. With about 15 minutes of tuning, Here's what >you can expect:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud Jones]

Thanks, Mark. I m going to try to avoid replacing the fork leg, but hold that thought, just in case. Thanks for the tip on the Heckler and Koch, as well. I m sure the HK is a nice pistol. A quick look shows asking prices ranging from $1200 to $1600 for NIB safe queens . If the estimate on my bike had come to that much, he would have totaled it. I m sure I could do better on a truly used example if I looked a little harder. No idea what a new one costs. In any case, I d love to try one. A new CZ75B lists for something like $479.00, with some dealer prices as low as $389.00. I would love a Hi Power, too, which the 75B resembles. Used examples are not all as much as the HK, but still more than a new CZ. Col. Jeff Cooper called it the world s best service pistol , even though he was a big proponent of single action pistols. Throw in the fact that I am already partial to CZs, and the 75B has to be very high on my list. On 11/15/11 3:10 PM, "Tengai Mark Van Horn" wrote:

> Nah, the HK P7 series is the sweetest-shooting 9mm tack driver at any price > right out of the box. Once you get a few of these, you'll dump all your other > 9mm pistols like I did. > > Anyway, if it comes down to replacing a fork lower, I'll sell you one real > cheap, like say, $40 shipped since we go way back. > > Mark > > > At 7:28 PM +0000 11/15/11, Jud wrote: > Nice shooting. I doubt I can shoot anything that well. A lot of people > consider it the best 9mm at any price. I just like the CZs I already have, > which a friend sold me because I was the only guy around riding CZ > motorcycles, and he thought I ought to have them. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Jeff > Khoury wrote: >> > >> > Well, as far as the new handgun goes, I have a CZ-75B and I absolutely LOVE >> it. I think it's one of the best value buys in handguns right now. It's >> well-made, very reliable and VERY accurate right out of the box. With about >> 15 minutes of tuning, Here's what you can expect: >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

You can find HK P7 ("PSP" model) Niedersachsen Polizei service trade-ins in nice shape for$500 +/- if you look around. The $1,200-$1,600 "safe queens" are NIB P7M8 models, and most of those guys are dreamers if they ask for anything above $1,200. No matter which variant it is, they all have the same operating system. Speaking of Col. Jeff Cooper, he wasn't a fan of 9mm and referred to it as an "anemic caliber." However, along with the CZ-75, he also liked the HK P7. He is quoted as saying, "If one is going to carry an underpowered pistol, he should carry the neatest and handiest one available, and that is the H&K P7." Mark At 7:04 PM -0600 11/15/11, Jud Jones wrote: Thanks for the tip on the Heckler and Koch, as well. I'm sure the HK is a nice pistol. A quick look shows asking prices ranging from $1200 to $1600 for "NIB safe queens". If the estimate on my bike had come to that much, he would have totaled it. I'm sure I could do better on a truly used example if I looked a little harder. No idea what a new one costs. In any case, I'd love to try one. A new CZ75B lists for something like $479.00, with some dealer prices as low as $389.00. I would love a Hi Power, too, which the 75B resembles. Used examples are not all as much as the HK, but still more than a new CZ. Col. Jeff Cooper called it "the world's best service pistol", even though he was a big proponent of single action pistols. Throw in the fact that I am already partial to CZs, and the 75B has to be very high on my list. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mike smith]

Sorry thought this was a bike group ????????? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Horton Oliphant]

This is, and always has been, a bike group that takes occasional tangents. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

On 11/16/2011 4:11 AM, Mike Smith wrote: > > Sorry thought this was a bike group ????????? > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]