nklr - but should be fun - monday is national talk like a pirate

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hansenj32
Posts: 13
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:02 am

valve adjustments/doohickey torsional spring locator hole

Post by hansenj32 » Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:54 am

It's been a few years since I've adjusted the valves on my A13 and I'm getting ready to check and probably adjust them again. As a refresher, I watched the gentleman's (2) videos on YouTube that cover checking and adjusting. One of the comments left for the adjustment video states that Motion Pro makes a tool for compressing the shim bucket so the cams don't need to be removed in order to change out shims. Have any of you used this method? After dropping the short screw from the chain tensioner into my sump last time (didn't stuff rags over the opening and was surprised by the different length), not removing the cams is really appealing if it can be done w/o scratching the cam lobes. Also, my doohickey replacement kit from Eagle Mike should be arriving today and I opted for the torsional spring. I've read several instructions and watched a couple of videos regarding the the location of the 1/16" dia. locating hole and none give any accurate dimension for the hole from the shaft bore. Any thoughts on that dimension or isn't it that critical? As stiff as the spring has to be, I'd think the radial distance should be close to keeping everything as concentric as possible. Jake

hansenj32
Posts: 13
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:02 am

nklr - but should be fun - monday is national talk like a pirate

Post by hansenj32 » Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:00 pm

Here a great tutorial to help those not up on this event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cKCkbWDGwE -jh
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > > http://www.talklikeapirate.com/ > > > Aaaarrrrgggghhh! > > Don M :-)))) >

Jud
Posts: 570
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:52 pm

valve adjustments/doohickey torsional spring locator hole

Post by Jud » Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:05 pm

I seem to remember reading somewhere that depressing the buckets on a KLR did not work, or at least not very well. No doubt someone knows better than I. I have never found it troublesome to lift the camshafts, a lot easier than trying to coax those shims out of their recesses with the cams still in place.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hansenj32" wrote: > > It's been a few years since I've adjusted the valves on my A13 and I'm getting ready to check and probably adjust them again. As a refresher, I watched the gentleman's (2) videos on YouTube that cover checking and adjusting. One of the comments left for the adjustment video states that Motion Pro makes a tool for compressing the shim bucket so the cams don't need to be removed in order to change out shims. Have any of you used this method? After dropping the short screw from the chain tensioner into my sump last time (didn't stuff rags over the opening and was surprised by the different length), not removing the cams is really appealing if it can be done w/o scratching the cam lobes. > > Also, my doohickey replacement kit from Eagle Mike should be arriving today and I opted for the torsional spring. I've read several instructions and watched a couple of videos regarding the the location of the 1/16" dia. locating hole and none give any accurate dimension for the hole from the shaft bore. Any thoughts on that dimension or isn't it that critical? As stiff as the spring has to be, I'd think the radial distance should be close to keeping everything as concentric as possible. > > Jake >

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