I am attempting to set my race sag for my weight. I weigh roughly 280 lbs out of the shower. Add the Caribou cases, wolfman rainier bag and my gear ... and I suspect my loaded weight increases to approximately 330 pounds, give or take. My front forks have 15 wt fork oil and my rear spring preload is set to five with an 8.0 kg spring from top gun manufacturing.
Here are the measurements for the rear sag as measured from the bottom of the caribou rack near the top edge of the top rack to the edge of the chain measurement plate at the end of the swingarm... no load, wheels off the ground=21.75", static sag=20.25", me on the bike with full gear=18". From my measurements, I get a 2.25 race sag setting, which I figure is about a 1/2 lower than optimal.
Front sag as measured from the top of the lower triple clamp to the top of the front axle nut are ... no load, wheels off the ground=25", static sag=23.75, me on the bike with full gear=21.5". From my measurements, I get 2.25" race sag setting on the front, which I understand is nearly optimal for the 9.1' suspension that is standard on the KLR650.
Here is my question ...
To achieve the 2.25" race sag in the front, I had to cut the spacers from 5.5" to 5.25". From everything I have read, at my weight, I suspected I had to increase the spacer length considerably to get the desired 25 percent (2.25") sag setting for the bike. Why then did I have to reduce the spacer length by 1/4" instead to achieve the desired race sag setting. Did the 15 wt oil I added have anything to do with it?
The rear sag setting is a bit low, and I have purchased some RL-2 raising links to let me reduce the current preload, which is set at 5, to something lower. I intend to purchase an MOAB shock shock at some point, but the prices are a bit higher than I want to pay right now. I am hoping that the raising links will allow me to set the rear shock preload to about 3 while maintaining a 30 percent sag setting, which I calculate to be about 2.75".
Any help from the KLR collective would be appreciated. Is my math wrong ... am I on the right track? Please help me out. I am new to this motorcycle thing, but I am eager to learn.
Thanks,
Kevin
question about turn signals
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question about turn signals
FMVSS 108 defines lighting requirements for motor vehicles. Here's an abbreviated copy:
http://calcoast-itl.com/assets/Motorcycles%20&%20Motor%20Driven%20Cycles%20-%20Lighting.pdf
Turn signals are required to have a minimum area of 3.5 square inches and, if the rear ones are red, they must be separated from the tail light by a minimum of 4 inches.
YMMV as far as state inspections are concerned.
Mike Martin,
Louisville, KY
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From: spike55_bmw
I'm sure LED trailer lights would pass state vehicle inspection and be more visible than the OEM incandescent lamps. It's all about what "floats your boat" and is still legal.
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here's one for the suspension experts on the list
I don't think you are too far off. I always thought race sag was measured from full extension, not from your static sag height. That would give you race sag of 3.75". With the ramped preload adjustment on the stock shock, I always thought that 3 to 3.5" was where you wanted to be, and about as close as you could cut it.
In any case, your spring may be a bit light. An 8 kg spring is equivalent to 452 lb/in. At one time, I weighed close to 270 lb. I was getting my sag in range at a preload setting of 2 with a 500/550 lb progressive "granite" spring. This is the same spring that Dave Jakeman used; he was somewhere north of 280.
On the front end, I think once again you are measuring race sag from the wrong point. Your race sag is 3.5", measured from full extension. What was your measurement with the stock spacers? I think you may need slightly longer ones, as you suspected. In any event, BTW, the weight of your fork oil is immaterial.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "kevincrossett" wrote: > > I am attempting to set my race sag for my weight. I weigh roughly 280 lbs out of the shower. Add the Caribou cases, wolfman rainier bag and my gear ... and I suspect my loaded weight increases to approximately 330 pounds, give or take. My front forks have 15 wt fork oil and my rear spring preload is set to five with an 8.0 kg spring from top gun manufacturing. > > Here are the measurements for the rear sag as measured from the bottom of the caribou rack near the top edge of the top rack to the edge of the chain measurement plate at the end of the swingarm... no load, wheels off the ground=21.75", static sag=20.25", me on the bike with full gear=18". From my measurements, I get a 2.25 race sag setting, which I figure is about a 1/2 lower than optimal. > > Front sag as measured from the top of the lower triple clamp to the top of the front axle nut are ... no load, wheels off the ground=25", static sag=23.75, me on the bike with full gear=21.5". From my measurements, I get 2.25" race sag setting on the front, which I understand is nearly optimal for the 9.1' suspension that is standard on the KLR650. > > Here is my question ... > To achieve the 2.25" race sag in the front, I had to cut the spacers from 5.5" to 5.25". From everything I have read, at my weight, I suspected I had to increase the spacer length considerably to get the desired 25 percent (2.25") sag setting for the bike. Why then did I have to reduce the spacer length by 1/4" instead to achieve the desired race sag setting. Did the 15 wt oil I added have anything to do with it? > > The rear sag setting is a bit low, and I have purchased some RL-2 raising links to let me reduce the current preload, which is set at 5, to something lower. I intend to purchase an MOAB shock shock at some point, but the prices are a bit higher than I want to pay right now. I am hoping that the raising links will allow me to set the rear shock preload to about 3 while maintaining a 30 percent sag setting, which I calculate to be about 2.75". > > Any help from the KLR collective would be appreciated. Is my math wrong ... am I on the right track? Please help me out. I am new to this motorcycle thing, but I am eager to learn. > > Thanks, > Kevin >
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here's one for the suspension experts on the list
I recently put a low mile 2009 stock shock on my 2004. I had already added an Eibach spring after 4 years to the stock shock. The Eibach spring had rate of 450 lbs/inch seems to be ballpark for riders of 180-200 lbs. I am 187 lbs. I moved the Eibach 450lbs/inch to the new low mile shock but my Sag stats were:
No load ie in the air 22 11/16 inches
On the ground with no added weight 20 1/2 inches
Me on the bike 20 1/8 inches
I have the preload adjustor set on 2 and will now move it back down to 1 because I have too much preload.
PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT ABOVE, DAMPNING ADJUSTMENT BELOW, DR. KROK BOTTOM
The newer shock has an easier screw adjust dampning adjustment. If I remember correctly, I screwed the screw all the way in and backed it out 1 complete turn. Earlier shock had a wheel to adjust dampning that was supposed to be moved in only 1 direction.
I believer that 1 gives me more dampning which is better with my shorter stronger spring.
J#3
Per Doc Krok:
What are the stats on the stock spring?
The stock spring is about 56mm/2.2" ID, 254mm/10" long, and the spring rate has been measured at 5.3 kg/300 lb. NOTE: Although the stock spring is 10" long, the shock appears to be built for a 9" spring. That is, installing the stock 10" spring puts an inch of preload on it, which is quite a bit. The consensus is that you are better off with a stiffer, shorter spring. A rate of 450 lbs/inch seems to be ballpark for riders of 180-200 lbs, and 500 or 550 for heavier riders. However, you might want to consult a suspension specialist (or the list) for suggestions on your specific weight and riding style. The(spring) proper diameter is 2.25".
How much preload should I set on the rear?
The rear suspension should compress about 3" from the combined weight of you and the bike. First, tilt the bike onto the side stand to top out the rear suspension, and have someone measure the distance from the rear axle to some point directly above it. Then, get on the bike, balance it upright, and only put one foot lightly on the floor to keep it balanced. Have your friend measure the distance again, and the difference between the two measurements is the sag. Adjust the preload as required to get 3" of sag. Note: When riding on your typical terrain, if you don't bottom the suspension out once and a while, you probably have it set too stiff.
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here's one for the suspension experts on the list
Thanks for the clarification. I am waiting for a set of raising links to
offset the 8.0 kg spring that I mentioned in the post. I will eventually get
a spring and shock that are tuned for my weight. Once I get the links
installed, I will remeasure the sag based on the fully-extended suspension.
Maybe then I'll get the 30 percent of so sag that I need.
Kevin
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