backfire

[leroy_cope]

A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? Roy Cope

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 01:17:41 -0000 "leroy_cope" writes:

> > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > Roy Cope

<><><><><> <><><><><> Roy, I've heard the Raptor petcock works too but have no personal experience with it. Doesn't seem too expensive for a learning experience if it's important to you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8f4336f2b173c9019st02vuc

[Tim Pruitt]

I'd be interested in knowing if this works as well. A friend of mine is thinking of converting his KLR over to a manual petcock and I'm researching possibilities for him. Anyone else know if this conversion woks, and how difficult or easy it is? How about any other after market KLR petcock conversions? Thanks! Tp Knoxville, TN ________________________________ From: Jeff Saline To: coaster@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, March 27, 2011 9:45:59 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Manual petcock for KLR? On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 01:17:41 -0000 "leroy_cope" writes:

> > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > Roy Cope

<><><><><> <><><><><> Roy, I've heard the Raptor petcock works too but have no personal experience with it. Doesn't seem too expensive for a learning experience if it's important to you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . __________________________________________________________ Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d8f4336f2b173c9019st02vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[souperdoo]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "leroy_cope" wrote:

> > > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > Roy Cope >

It does work and is a simple modification. For a description/how-to, see http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?p=48405#post48405 Tom

[skypilot110]

This is a nice looking mod but has anybody on the list ever had a failure of the vaccum petcock not shutting off? Not that that would be the only reason to do this but I am curious Chris

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "souperdoo" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "leroy_cope" wrote: > > > > > > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > > > Roy Cope > > > > It does work and is a simple modification. > > For a description/how-to, see http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?p=48405#post48405 > > Tom >

[revmaaatin]

Does an active leak, in any selected 'ON" position count? I had one of those. Tightening the screws (helps some) did not hot help. A kit from Fred, fixed the problem. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "skypilot110" wrote: > > This is a nice looking mod but has anybody on the list ever had a failure of the vaccum petcock not shutting off? Not that that would be the only reason to do this but I am curious > Chris > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "souperdoo" wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "leroy_cope" wrote: > > > > > > > > > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > > > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > > > > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > > > > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > > > > > Roy Cope > > > > > > > It does work and is a simple modification. > > > > For a description/how-to, see http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?p=48405#post48405 > > > > Tom > > >

[John Biccum]

I had the diaphragm fail in my stock petcock. The symptoms were fuel starvation at low vacuum settings (e.g. high speed on highway) and extremely rich running at high vacuum settings (e.g. idling in traffic or engine braking). At low vacuum the leaky diaphragm would not allow enough fuel to flow to the carb bowl keep up with the demands of the engine. At high vacuum the leaky diaphragm allowed raw gasoline to be sucked down what should have been just a vacuum hose into the carb where it created a very rich running condition (soot on the fender and in the tailpipe, sooty spark plug). Coincidently I was trying to get the jetting sorted out for the very first 685 on the road. I was perplexed by the too rich AND too lean symptoms and I asked a lot of people for advice. The legendary Seattle race engine builder George Dean asked me if I had a vacuum petcock on the bike and when I said yes he said "the diaphragm has failed". George was, as usual, right. I put a Pingel on my bike but a manual conversion kit for the stocker or the Rhino manual petcock are both thriftier alternatives. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of skypilot110 Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 6:39 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Manual petcock for KLR? This is a nice looking mod but has anybody on the list ever had a failure of the vaccum petcock not shutting off? Not that that would be the only reason to do this but I am curious Chris --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , "souperdoo" wrote:

> > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ,

"leroy_cope" wrote:

> > > > > > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > > > Roy Cope > > > > It does work and is a simple modification. > > For a description/how-to, see

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?p=48405#post48405

> > Tom >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

John, Thanks for posting that information. Is any of this 'vacuum-data' you have presented also, temperature and altitude sensitive? The same bike that I rebuilt the pet cock on has developed a horrible running problem at temps above 90/95F. Last summer, I could barely get the bike to run...as the OAT increased. The problem initally presented RIGHT AFTER buying 10%ethenol fuel in Yellowstone NP = no choice; I needed fuel. Very soon after that, I pulled over and I drained the carb, flush/drain and continued. We limped into Cody, WY; did the flush drain again. In the process of limping along: I tried adding choke, removing choke; it would barely pull itself along/bucking/surging along at ~35 mph at the high OAT. (I have had previous experiences here in the Dakota's with 10%ethenol and temps above 90F. It would not go any faster than 60mphi.) Of course, I avoid ethenol unless it is absolutely necessary. Leaving Cody at 10AM, it ran fine until noon, then while crossing the Eastern WY from Worland, Eastward with increasing temps, it was a real pill. I tried opening the gas tank while driving; no effect. I stopped and drained the carb; a couple of times at Ten Sleep (only shade for miles). In the course of time, I had tried adding higher octane fuel, draining the carb, opening the fuel tank, thinking hateful thoughts. By now, we had completly used up/diluted most of that 10% enthenol. Mind you, Sam's bike was running just fine on the same conditions. As I climbed out of Ten Sleep, WY the OAT slowly decreased as the altitude increased and the bike ran better. (Seemed to me to be strictly temp specific.) My son's KLR650 did not exhibit any of these problems. Next day, repeat of the previous two days. As temps got hotter, the bike would barely pull itself along. Initally of a morning, ran like a very fine KLR, because, well, it is a very fine KLR! But get a little temp increase. It gets naughty. Leaving Rapid City, it was running pretty good. Same story, 3rd verse. By the time I got to Midland,SD it was hot outside and the bike beagan getting naughty again. I stopped in at the ACE hardware, Midland, SD and bought reflective bubble wrap and wrapped the fuel line. It was a marginal fix; as the temp stabilized below that 90/95F as the evening wore on we limped home. I have put some miles on it since; no repeat/poor performance. A couple of other data points: Thermo bob installed; temp was reaching above 220 during some of these times. Fan is operating as advertised. Future: I am going to throghly clean the radiator with soap and water--though I don't think this is a problem. I am going to look for a vacum leak in the petcock. I don't think this is a problem. shrug. Saturday, I had the KLR out: OAT 30F; thermo bob took the bike to ~200F and the fan cycled as advertised. It was only a short ride back to cold storage for the bikes to await the spring thaw. again. Any ideas, suggestions? I am confident that it would present the same problems if the OAT was above 90, and certainly above 95F. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote: > > I had the diaphragm fail in my stock petcock. The symptoms were fuel > starvation at low vacuum settings (e.g. high speed on highway) and extremely > rich running at high vacuum settings (e.g. idling in traffic or engine > braking). > > > > At low vacuum the leaky diaphragm would not allow enough fuel to flow to the > carb bowl keep up with the demands of the engine. At high vacuum the leaky > diaphragm allowed raw gasoline to be sucked down what should have been just > a vacuum hose into the carb where it created a very rich running condition > (soot on the fender and in the tailpipe, sooty spark plug). > > > > Coincidently I was trying to get the jetting sorted out for the very first > 685 on the road. I was perplexed by the too rich AND too lean symptoms and > I asked a lot of people for advice. The legendary Seattle race engine > builder George Dean asked me if I had a vacuum petcock on the bike and when > I said yes he said "the diaphragm has failed". > > > > George was, as usual, right. > > > > I put a Pingel on my bike but a manual conversion kit for the stocker or the > Rhino manual petcock are both thriftier alternatives. > > > > > > > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of skypilot110 > Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 6:39 AM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Manual petcock for KLR? > > > > > > This is a nice looking mod but has anybody on the list ever had a failure of > the vaccum petcock not shutting off? Not that that would be the only reason > to do this but I am curious > Chris > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > "souperdoo" wrote: > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , > "leroy_cope" wrote: > > > > > > > > > A friend of mine has given me information that a Petcock for a > > > 2003 Yamaha YFM660RR Raptor ATV will fit the KLR. > > > > > > Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01-00 Price from Ron Ayers is $16.30 > > > > > > Can anyone confirm this? Has anyone tried this? > > > > > > Roy Cope > > > > > > > It does work and is a simple modification. > > > > For a description/how-to, see > http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?p=48405#post48405 > > > > Tom > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[John Biccum]

When I was experiencing fuel starvation I was able to confirm the float bowl was empty, as soon as it filled again the bike ran great until I ran the bowl dry again. I didn't notice any correlation to altitude or temperature. But all of my jetting work was performed at close to sea level in Seattle when the weather was. typical Seattle weather, drizzling and not so warm. The symptoms you describe *do* sound like vapor lock, a condition when the gasoline is vaporized where it should still be in the liquid form. Ethanol is more volatile than gasoline so 10% ethanol-90% gasoline is going to be more likely to vapor lock than pure gasoline. But one of your comments is telling: "Sam's bike was running just fine on the same conditions". What was different between your bike and his? Why wouldn't Sam's bike be experiencing vapor lock as well? Perhaps the petcock diaphragm was marginal on your bike and no so marginal on his. The high temps would exacerbate any pinholes in the thin rubber material that makes up the diaphragm since rubber become more flexible at elevated temperatures. If the diaphragm was just barely able to keep up with the engine's demands for the fuel in the float bowl, you would see fuel starvation symptoms that would mimic those of vapor lock in that in both cases the engine would starved for fuel. Here is how I would test the diaphragm: I'd use a vacuum pump with a vacuum gage (e.g. a Mity Vac, used for bleeding brakes) on the carb end of the vacuum hose serving the petcock. It should hold vacuum and not leak down. If it does leak down the diaphragm is not vacuum tight. After operating the bike for a while I'd stop the bike and pull the carb end of the vacuum hose serving the petcock off the carb and see if it has liquid gasoline or gas vapors in in. It should have neither, but if it does gasoline is leaking down the hose into the carb meaning the diaphragm in not vacuum tight. I am not fond of parts switching as a diagnostic measure. But vacuum petcocks are a bit of automation that should not be necessary with a bit of operator discipline (e.g. FINE-C), I always wondered if it was the engineering department or the loss prevention department that invented them J. I think that even those vacuum petcocks that have not failed are destined to do so and mostly likely at the most inopportune time. So why not just convert it to full manual operation with a rectangle of nitrile-rubber (e.g. BUNA-N) and four Allen head cap screws? As I recall someone (Krokko?) used to sell an inexpensive kit that was just that. Or go for the Rhino petcock or similar? BTW I agree that your radiator sounds fine and is not likely to be the problem. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of revmaaatin Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 7:32 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Manual petcock for KLR? John, Thanks for posting that information. Is any of this 'vacuum-data' you have presented also, temperature and altitude sensitive? The same bike that I rebuilt the pet cock on has developed a horrible running problem at temps above 90/95F. Last summer, I could barely get the bike to run...as the OAT increased. The problem initally presented RIGHT AFTER buying 10%ethenol fuel in Yellowstone NP = no choice; I needed fuel. Very soon after that, I pulled over and I drained the carb, flush/drain and continued. We limped into Cody, WY; did the flush drain again. In the process of limping along: I tried adding choke, removing choke; it would barely pull itself along/bucking/surging along at ~35 mph at the high OAT. (I have had previous experiences here in the Dakota's with 10%ethenol and temps above 90F. It would not go any faster than 60mphi.) Of course, I avoid ethenol unless it is absolutely necessary. Leaving Cody at 10AM, it ran fine until noon, then while crossing the Eastern WY from Worland, Eastward with increasing temps, it was a real pill. I tried opening the gas tank while driving; no effect. I stopped and drained the carb; a couple of times at Ten Sleep (only shade for miles). In the course of time, I had tried adding higher octane fuel, draining the carb, opening the fuel tank, thinking hateful thoughts. By now, we had completly used up/diluted most of that 10% enthenol. Mind you, Sam's bike was running just fine on the same conditions. As I climbed out of Ten Sleep, WY the OAT slowly decreased as the altitude increased and the bike ran better. (Seemed to me to be strictly temp specific.) My son's KLR650 did not exhibit any of these problems. Next day, repeat of the previous two days. As temps got hotter, the bike would barely pull itself along. Initally of a morning, ran like a very fine KLR, because, well, it is a very fine KLR! But get a little temp increase. It gets naughty. Leaving Rapid City, it was running pretty good. Same story, 3rd verse. By the time I got to Midland,SD it was hot outside and the bike beagan getting naughty again. I stopped in at the ACE hardware, Midland, SD and bought reflective bubble wrap and wrapped the fuel line. It was a marginal fix; as the temp stabilized below that 90/95F as the evening wore on we limped home. I have put some miles on it since; no repeat/poor performance. A couple of other data points: Thermo bob installed; temp was reaching above 220 during some of these times. Fan is operating as advertised. Future: I am going to throghly clean the radiator with soap and water--though I don't think this is a problem. I am going to look for a vacum leak in the petcock. I don't think this is a problem. shrug. Saturday, I had the KLR out: OAT 30F; thermo bob took the bike to ~200F and the fan cycled as advertised. It was only a short ride back to cold storage for the bikes to await the spring thaw. again. Any ideas, suggestions? I am confident that it would present the same problems if the OAT was above 90, and certainly above 95F. revmaaatin. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Loose exhaust fitting ? Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bradley Scheirer" wrote: > > I noticed last year my 01 started backfiring when I leave off the throttle, > Any thoughts or ideas how to fix it? > Thanks > Brad >