hiccups !!!klx needle.

[pdstreeter@mmm.com]

 Martin (revmaaatin) wrote:  

>

I heavily advise you change that .98-$1.25 rim strip AT LEAST every 5 tire changes...cough. hack. fuss. >Really--at least every other tire change, if not EVERY change.   >I would imagine some of those folks would/might buy a $6 beer at the ball park and then cheat on a duct-tape rim strip.  >They would also 'hope' they don't rub a hole in the tube on a dark and stormy night.   >Duck tape is for McGivering; >It's your pig.  Part-it or tape to your hearts desire.  I've replaced parts in the garage; I've been stranded because >things I should have been watching closer, come unglued.  sigh.   The reason that I have used duct tape on my rims is that it helps prevent instant loss of air pressure in case of a puncture.  Without all the spoke holes to gush out of, the air takes a little more time, and is less like a blow out.  

>The garage is much better...fewer bears and mosquitoes as well.

Fewer bears but more beers. Paul Streeter

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, pdstreeter@... wrote:

>SNIP> > > The reason that I have used duct tape on my rims is that it helps prevent > instant loss of air pressure in case of a puncture. Without all the spoke > holes to gush out of, the air takes a little more time, and is less like a > blow out. > > >The garage is much better...fewer bears and mosquitoes as well. > > Fewer bears but more beers. > > Paul Streeter >

Paul, Thanks for the thoughtful response. hmmm. I suppose that would be a Hamm's beer bear. I wonder--is it out the spoke interface that you will see the rapid escape of air; or might it be around the valve stem? Why should I suggest that :~/ ? During my last tire change, due to a nail puncture, the excess tire soap was escaping (visibly) around the valve stem; not visibly around the spokes. shurg. Of course acknowledging that the spoke nipples are much smaller hole,etc, harder to see a leak, and the valve stem is a sloppy fit at best. shrug. Hence, me thinks it is the valve stem that the air will escape the firstest and the mostest. and as a Side note: this tire (K270) had been mounted up at least 3 years and it was p-a-i-n-f-u-l to break the bead. Took over an hour using the 2x4 under the car frame method to break the bead. painful Honda [reportedly] has a farkle that you put around the valve stem to keep water out of your tire--that should theoretically do the same for the slow transfer of air from the tire to the atmosphere. Former KLR fiend, "Norm" had it listed on his 100 farkle list and thought it was useful. Perhaps--the deep thinkers returning from their oil-dreams will re-tire to thoughts of escaping air from sudden punctures would care to comment. smile. Paul, what I do see that has merit--that a strip of duct tape below the rim strip would answer all the 'questions' except Fred's penchant for rusty nipples. grin. It is just to hard to please everybody. The duck tape would [presumably] slow down the air leak and the rimstrip would protect the tube from the abrasion of the tape threads. In some 40K KLR miles, I have only had two flats. Both in my home county, both from nails, both in the rear tire. One was a 20p box and the other was a 10p finish nail. The 20p full shredded the HD tube in the time it first wobbled to I got it stopped. revmaaatin. hoping that this is my 'only' flat this year!

[mark ward]

[mechanizeinc]

I have used electrical tape instead of duct tape. I don't have to rip it into strips as it is already almost the perfect width to fit the rim valley. It seals the nipples fairly well and doesn't chafe the tube like duct tape fibers could. I prefer a fresh rim strip, but in the absence of such a coupla wraps of electrical tape, trim the stem hole with a pocket knife. Done. The last time I had rubber off the wheel I wire brushed, cleaned and then shot the nipples/rim inside w/ a light coating of self etching primer. Haven't pulled rubber off in awhile to see if it inhibited corrosion... someone please post a link of the Honda valve stem seal farkle. Mech

[Greg May]

  I still have the original rim strips in use but have always used 3M splicing compound tape as a replacement when needed. It is a self vulcanizing rubber tape that will pretty much only stick to itself. The tape I use is 3/4" wide so it is about the same width as the original strip, I just use 3 layers put on in a continuous strip weaving out around the valve stem hole and put a 6" or so piece of electrical tape over the joint where the tape ends, it takes pressure for it to vulcanize to itself so it doesn't stick together until air has been added to the tube.    Since I've never suffered with rusty nipples like Fred is concerned about, it does sound uncomfortable, this tape must seal the rim quite well, I've never had it come apart like I think I read was a concern with duct tape and if you remove it there is no residue to clean up. It should be available at any electrical distributor. I included a link below to one of the products I use....Have a great day.....Greg   http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtMxM_NXs6EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--     [b]Tue, 6/8/10, mechanizeinc [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: mechanizeinc Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Who is using rim locks here?, now rim strips To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Tuesday, June 8, 2010, 1:59 PM   I have used electrical tape instead of duct tape. I don't have to rip it into strips as it is already almost the perfect width to fit the rim valley. It seals the nipples fairly well and doesn't chafe the tube like duct tape fibers could. I prefer a fresh rim strip, but in the absence of such a coupla wraps of electrical tape, trim the stem hole with a pocket knife. Done. The last time I had rubber off the wheel I wire brushed, cleaned and then shot the nipples/rim inside w/ a light coating of self etching primer. Haven't pulled rubber off in awhile to see if it inhibited corrosion... someone please post a link of the Honda valve stem seal farkle. Mech

[Jud]

Once you start to talk about sealing spoke holes against air loss, you are just a hop and a skip from going tubeless altogether. Seal the nipples with RTV, cover that over with any tape or spooge that will make you sleep better at night, and install a tubeless valve stem. Run a "tubeless" tire without a tube, and voila: protecting the tube from the spokes is no longer an issue. Is there any reason you can't run rim locks with a tubeless tire? If there's no tube, there's almost no inconvenience. What is it that makes me shy away from being a pioneer?

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, pdstreeter@... wrote: > > > Martin (revmaaatin) wrote: > > >I heavily advise you change that .98-$1.25 rim strip AT LEAST every 5 tire > changes...cough. hack. fuss. > >Really--at least every other tire change, if not EVERY change. > > >I would imagine some of those folks would/might buy a $6 beer at the ball > park and then cheat on a duct-tape rim strip. >They would also 'hope' they > don't rub a hole in the tube on a dark and stormy night. > > >Duck tape is for McGivering; > > >It's your pig. Part-it or tape to your hearts desire. I've replaced > parts in the garage; I've been stranded because >things I should have been > watching closer, come unglued. sigh. > > > The reason that I have used duct tape on my rims is that it helps prevent > instant loss of air pressure in case of a puncture. Without all the spoke > holes to gush out of, the air takes a little more time, and is less like a > blow out. > > >The garage is much better...fewer bears and mosquitoes as well. > > Fewer bears but more beers. > > Paul Streeter >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1217082858 p {margin:0;}I've heard stories of people doing this back in the '60s and '70s by using spoke nipples from wire car wheels that have rubber gaskets on them.  I've never actually seen it in person though. If it's true, and it does work, it would be very neat to do.  However, if you're running low enough pressure to need rim locks, the chances are high that you'd go over a rock or something and break the bead, causing instant complete deflation. Also, I know I'll never do it because having tube type tires saved my @$$ a few months back when I hit a large piece of metal debris on the freeway.  Evidently there had been an accident there earlier in the day and a giant piece of metal was left lying on the freeway (about the size of a parking stop).  The debris was black and it was dark - I hit it at about 40MPH and found myself unexpectedly a couple of feet off the ground. I managed to stick the landing and not crash.  Both my wheels were toast, but the tires stayed inflated thanks to HD tubes.  Had I been running tubeless tires, I would have had to land on two flats and the results might have turned out very differently. Here are pictures of the aftermath: http://bit.ly/bGCBXS -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jud" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2010 8:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Who is using rim locks here?, now rim strips   Once you start to talk about sealing spoke holes against air loss, you are just a hop and a skip from going tubeless altogether. Seal the nipples with RTV, cover that over with any tape or spooge that will make you sleep better at night, and install a tubeless valve stem. Run a "tubeless" tire without a tube, and voila: protecting the tube from the spokes is no longer an issue. Is there any reason you can't run rim locks with a tubeless tire? If there's no tube, there's almost no inconvenience. What is it that makes me shy away from being a pioneer? --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, pdstreeter@... wrote: > > > Martin (revmaaatin) wrote: > > >I heavily advise you change that .98-$1.25 rim strip AT LEAST every 5 tire > changes...cough. hack. fuss. > >Really--at least every other tire change, if not EVERY change. > > >I would imagine some of those folks would/might buy a $6 beer at the ball > park and then cheat on a duct-tape rim strip. >They would also 'hope' they > don't rub a hole in the tube on a dark and stormy night. > > >Duck tape is for McGivering; > > >It's your pig. Part-it or tape to your hearts desire. I've replaced > parts in the garage; I've been stranded because >things I should have been > watching closer, come unglued. sigh. > > > The reason that I have used duct tape on my rims is that it helps prevent > instant loss of air pressure in case of a puncture. Without all the spoke > holes to gush out of, the air takes a little more time, and is less like a > blow out. > > >The garage is much better...fewer bears and mosquitoes as well. > > Fewer bears but more beers. > > Paul Streeter >

[fasteddiecopeman]

I installed a Shinko E705 90/90x21 tubeless front onto my KLR after siliconing the spokes ('trued' up the wheel FIRST) and drilling the stem hole to accept a metal (mag-wheel) stem, TUBELESS, and so far it's holding pressure really well. I'll start the "tubeless" work on my rear wheel for the other E705 in the next couple of days. Cheers, Ed

[stuart sullivan]

Schitz Motorsports Inc has the KLX Needles in a kit for $25,It's richer than the stock needle and the Dynojet one also and is adjustable,i just did a mod on mine and got my jets from Schnitz,good service.                                                            Stu. To: minoman59@... CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com From: jeff@... Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 22:44:07 -0700 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!!   Mike, Since you have the DynaJet kit installed, there is no need for the 22 cent mod, your needle is adjustable.  If you followed the instructions, your slide is drilled as well since the drill bit and instructions are included with the kit. I've never seen the KLX needle in person, so I cannot comment on what its taper is.  If I had to venture a guess, it would be somewhere between stock and the DynaJet, but that's ONLY a GUESS.  Only a pair of calipers could tell you for sure. Cheers! -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Huber" To: jeff@astatic. net, "dsn klr650" Sent: Monday, June 7, 2010 9:36:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!! Jeff....Thanx for the info on my problem....I haven't noticed the hiccup lately as the temps have been in the 100's .... When I rode to work this morning    it was still in the 80's and it wasn't giving me any problems.... It seems that I notice it more when it's cold, so WHEN and IF It ever cools down around    here I'll try and raise it a notch and see if it makes a difference.. ..I've heard that some guys use a KLX needle ....How does it compare to the Dynajet    needle ?? And how does the .22 cent mod and the drilled slide mod work ???  I like the gas mileage but I've heard that some of these mods can effect    it ...     Mike Huber   06 FullyFarkledFrog   Carlsbad, NM where 100* is normal !!!           Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 08:35:50 -0700 From: jeff@astatic. net To: minoman59@msn. com CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogro ups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!! Since it's happening at a higher RPM, it's definitely not the pilot.  The pilot is only significant from idle to 1/8 throttle or so.  The problem will lie in the size of your main jet and the position of the needle. With carbs it's all about throttle position, not so much RPM.  Since you have the K&N, aftermarket pipe and the DynaJet, I would look at a mixture problem. In my experience, the DynaJet needle's taper is a little bit too aggressive, which leads me to think you may be hitting a spot where it's a little too rich.  Try this: Next time you ride it, pay attention to your "hiccup".  If it's not as noticeable when the bike's cold, but gets worse as the bike heats up, then drop your needle a notch and see if that clears it up.  If it's really bad when it's cold, but gets better as it gets warmer, raise it a notch.  If you adjust the needle and it moves the point of the hiccup, pay attention to that as well. I fiddled forever with the DynaJet needles in my old Seca II, and ended up going back to the stock ones.  I never could get it to run smooth through the whole band with the DynaJet needles in there.  The taper was just too aggressive. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Huber" To: "dsn klr650" Sent: Sunday, June 6, 2010 9:27:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!!   My 06 with 25k smiles on the clock has the hiccups !!!!  As I accelerate through 3000 rpms it has a slight hiccup or miss ...It will have the same miss in   all gears as it hits 3000 rpm ...If I shift it above 3000 rpm I don't notice it...I'm running a K&N filter and a Dynajet kit with a after market pipe and   always get no less than 50 mpg ...I add Seafoam to the gas about every 3rd fillup .....Is this a carb adjustment ,pilot jet, or maybe a   diaphram problem ???    Thanx Mike Huber 06 FullyFarkledFrog Carlsbad, NM

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[Jud]

I was just thinking out loud about using rim locks without tubes, but obviously not thinking very clearly, because a discreet soul had the tact to contact me off-list to point out that the use of rim locks would create yet another hole to seal up somehow. Perhaps the reason I wasn't thinking too clearly is because I have already considered the idea of tubeless tires on spoked wheels, and have discarded it. My reasons are as follows: 1. I don't really have too much trouble with tubes, either in the shop or on the road; 2. Tubeless beads are not so easy, as they fit the rim more closely, and are thus harder to break and to seat. 3. The prospect of trying to seat a tubeless bead at trailside with a hand pump does not appeal to me, even in the absence of a bead-retention shoulder. I have done it on a Lester mag with an old BMW tool-kit hand pump, and it was a dodgy proposition.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I've heard stories of people doing this back in the '60s and '70s by using spoke nipples from wire car wheels that have rubber gaskets on them. I've never actually seen it in person though. > > If it's true, and it does work, it would be very neat to do. However, if you're running low enough pressure to need rim locks, the chances are high that you'd go over a rock or something and break the bead, causing instant complete deflation. > > Also, I know I'll never do it because having tube type tires saved my @$$ a few months back when I hit a large piece of metal debris on the freeway. Evidently there had been an accident there earlier in the day and a giant piece of metal was left lying on the freeway (about the size of a parking stop). The debris was black and it was dark - I hit it at about 40MPH and found myself unexpectedly a couple of feet off the ground. > > I managed to stick the landing and not crash. Both my wheels were toast, but the tires stayed inflated thanks to HD tubes. Had I been running tubeless tires, I would have had to land on two flats and the results might have turned out very differently. > > Here are pictures of the aftermath: http://bit.ly/bGCBXS > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jud" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2010 8:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Who is using rim locks here?, now rim strips > > > > > > > Once you start to talk about sealing spoke holes against air loss, you are just a hop and a skip from going tubeless altogether. Seal the nipples with RTV, cover that over with any tape or spooge that will make you sleep better at night, and install a tubeless valve stem. Run a "tubeless" tire without a tube, and voila: protecting the tube from the spokes is no longer an issue. > > Is there any reason you can't run rim locks with a tubeless tire? If there's no tube, there's almost no inconvenience. What is it that makes me shy away from being a pioneer? > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , pdstreeter@ wrote: > > > > > > Martin (revmaaatin) wrote: > > > > >I heavily advise you change that .98-$1.25 rim strip AT LEAST every 5 tire > > changes...cough. hack. fuss. > > >Really--at least every other tire change, if not EVERY change. > > > > >I would imagine some of those folks would/might buy a $6 beer at the ball > > park and then cheat on a duct-tape rim strip. >They would also 'hope' they > > don't rub a hole in the tube on a dark and stormy night. > > > > >Duck tape is for McGivering; > > > > >It's your pig. Part-it or tape to your hearts desire. I've replaced > > parts in the garage; I've been stranded because >things I should have been > > watching closer, come unglued. sigh. > > > > > > The reason that I have used duct tape on my rims is that it helps prevent > > instant loss of air pressure in case of a puncture. Without all the spoke > > holes to gush out of, the air takes a little more time, and is less like a > > blow out. > > > > >The garage is much better...fewer bears and mosquitoes as well. > > > > Fewer bears but more beers. > > > > Paul Streeter > > >