06 with the hiccups !!!

[Darren Clark]

Attachments : Just an FYI to anybody that stripped out the foot peg nuts (like I did, then lost the foot peg on the freeway). I considered cutting off the bracket, drilling out the frame, etc, etc, etc... But that was all way too much work. Instead I did the following: 1) Drilled out the existing nuts with a 11/32 drill bit. 2) Tapped the old nuts with a M10x1.5 tap. 3) Drilled out the new foot peg holes with a 13/32 drill. 4) Bolted the new foot peg on with 2 M10x1.5 bolts and Lok Tight. -- Darren Clark http://www.flickr.com/photos/84373829@N00/ 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI

[fasteddiecopeman]

Only problem with your "fix" is that you still have ONLY about 2 to 3 threads in a soft nut for your new M10 bolts to 'bite' into. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darren Clark wrote: > > Just an FYI to anybody that stripped out the foot peg nuts (like I did, > then lost the foot peg on the freeway). > > I considered cutting off the bracket, drilling out the frame, etc, etc, > etc... But that was all way too much work. > > Instead I did the following: > 1) Drilled out the existing nuts with a 11/32 drill bit. > 2) Tapped the old nuts with a M10x1.5 tap. > 3) Drilled out the new foot peg holes with a 13/32 drill. > 4) Bolted the new foot peg on with 2 M10x1.5 bolts and Lok Tight. > > -- > Darren Clark > http://www.flickr.com/photos/84373829@N00/ > 2004 KLR-650 > Fowlerville, MI >

[Darren Clark]

Attachments : It looks more like 5 or 6 threads, but still it's better to have 5 or 6 10MM threads than 5 or 6 8MM! Plus the red Lok Tight, I don't think it's going to go anywhere. Stock it held up for 22,000 miles, modified it should last longer than the bike. fasteddiecopeman wrote:

Only problem with your "fix" is that you still have ONLY about 2 to 3 threads in a soft nut for your new M10 bolts to 'bite' into. Ed --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darren Clark biggranger@... wrote: Just an FYI to anybody that stripped out the foot peg nuts (like I did, then lost the foot peg on the freeway). I considered cutting off the bracket, drilling out the frame, etc, etc, etc... But that was all way too much work. Instead I did the following: 1) Drilled out the existing nuts with a 11/32 drill bit. 2) Tapped the old nuts with a M10x1.5 tap. 3) Drilled out the new foot peg holes with a 13/32 drill. 4) Bolted the new foot peg on with 2 M10x1.5 bolts and Lok Tight. -- Darren Clark http://www.flickr.com/photos/84373829@N00/ 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI

------------------------------------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: DSN_KLR650-digest@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ -- Darren Clark http://www.flickr.com/photos/84373829@N00/ 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI

[guymanbro]

Except that you end up with some threads in the box that the pegs mount to as well. Trust me, this fix works. I've tested it multiple (hundreds) of times and I think I have proven that I am capable of finding weakness in the structural components of the KLR. ;') da Vermonster

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote: > > Only problem with your "fix" is that you still have ONLY about 2 to 3 threads in a soft nut for your new M10 bolts to 'bite' into. > Ed > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darren Clark wrote: > > > > Just an FYI to anybody that stripped out the foot peg nuts (like I did, > > then lost the foot peg on the freeway). > > > > I considered cutting off the bracket, drilling out the frame, etc, etc, > > etc... But that was all way too much work. > > > > Instead I did the following: > > 1) Drilled out the existing nuts with a 11/32 drill bit. > > 2) Tapped the old nuts with a M10x1.5 tap. > > 3) Drilled out the new foot peg holes with a 13/32 drill. > > 4) Bolted the new foot peg on with 2 M10x1.5 bolts and Lok Tight. > > > > -- > > Darren Clark > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/84373829@N00/ > > 2004 KLR-650 > > Fowlerville, MI > > >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Darren, When my footpeg bolts stripped the nuts, I cut the vertical portion off the box where the nuts are. The nuts are VERY shallow square nuts with possibly 2 to 3 threads (square nuts normally indicates that they are very soft, grade 2 or LESS!), so I got 2 = 10 mm grade 8 nuts welded in and the vertical portion re-welded to the frame. I KNOW that welding changes the strength, but I'd much rather START with grade 8 than grade 2...! Since the fix I've had no problems including a 12,500 km trip to Alaska and Inuvik last summer, and I can tighten them way more than the stocker's 12.5 pound-feet! Ed

[mark ward]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > Darren, > When my footpeg bolts stripped the nuts, I cut the vertical portion off the box where the nuts are. The nuts are VERY shallow square nuts with possibly 2 to 3 threads (square nuts normally indicates that they are very soft, grade 2 or LESS!), so I got 2 = 10 mm grade 8 nuts welded in and the vertical portion re-welded to the frame. I KNOW that welding changes the strength, but I'd much rather START with grade 8 than grade 2...! Since the fix I've had no problems including a 12,500 km trip to Alaska and Inuvik last summer, and I can tighten them way more than the stocker's 12.5 pound-feet! > Ed >

Ed, Did you use a cutoff wheel or recip saw (sic: sawzall) to open the box? Do you use a center stand? One of the other foot peg repairs that I have read/pictures etal precludes using a center stand after the repair as it widens the overall foot peg mounting points...at least without some serious modifications to the center stand attachment points. revmaaatin.

[mark ward]

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-636054426 p {margin:0;}Mike, Since you have the DynaJet kit installed, there is no need for the 22 cent mod, your needle is adjustable.  If you followed the instructions, your slide is drilled as well since the drill bit and instructions are included with the kit. I've never seen the KLX needle in person, so I cannot comment on what its taper is.  If I had to venture a guess, it would be somewhere between stock and the DynaJet, but that's ONLY a GUESS.  Only a pair of calipers could tell you for sure. Cheers! -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Huber" To: jeff@..., "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, June 7, 2010 9:36:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!! Jeff....Thanx for the info on my problem....I haven't noticed the hiccup lately as the temps have been in the 100's .... When I rode to work this morning    it was still in the 80's and it wasn't giving me any problems....It seems that I notice it more when it's cold, so WHEN and IF It ever cools down around    here I'll try and raise it a notch and see if it makes a difference....I've heard that some guys use a KLX needle ....How does it compare to the Dynajet    needle ?? And how does the .22 cent mod and the drilled slide mod work ???  I like the gas mileage but I've heard that some of these mods can effect    it ...     Mike Huber   06 FullyFarkledFrog   Carlsbad, NM where 100* is normal !!!           Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 08:35:50 -0700 From: jeff@... To: minoman59@... CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!! #ygrps-yiv-636054426 .ygrps-yiv-636054426ExternalClass p {} Since it's happening at a higher RPM, it's definitely not the pilot.  The pilot is only significant from idle to 1/8 throttle or so.  The problem will lie in the size of your main jet and the position of the needle. With carbs it's all about throttle position, not so much RPM.  Since you have the K&N, aftermarket pipe and the DynaJet, I would look at a mixture problem. In my experience, the DynaJet needle's taper is a little bit too aggressive, which leads me to think you may be hitting a spot where it's a little too rich.  Try this: Next time you ride it, pay attention to your "hiccup".  If it's not as noticeable when the bike's cold, but gets worse as the bike heats up, then drop your needle a notch and see if that clears it up.  If it's really bad when it's cold, but gets better as it gets warmer, raise it a notch.  If you adjust the needle and it moves the point of the hiccup, pay attention to that as well. I fiddled forever with the DynaJet needles in my old Seca II, and ended up going back to the stock ones.  I never could get it to run smooth through the whole band with the DynaJet needles in there.  The taper was just too aggressive. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Huber" To: "dsn klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, June 6, 2010 9:27:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] 06 with the hiccups !!!   My 06 with 25k smiles on the clock has the hiccups !!!!  As I accelerate through 3000 rpms it has a slight hiccup or miss ...It will have the same miss in   all gears as it hits 3000 rpm ...If I shift it above 3000 rpm I don't notice it...I'm running a K&N filter and a Dynajet kit with a after market pipe and   always get no less than 50 mpg ...I add Seafoam to the gas about every 3rd fillup .....Is this a carb adjustment ,pilot jet, or maybe a   diaphram problem ???    Thanx Mike Huber 06 FullyFarkledFrog Carlsbad, NM