[norton antispam] [dsn_klr650] oil..

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-955001887 p {margin:0;}Good Evening, Not to start a religious war, but at my latest oil change I switched brands and weights.  I have pretty much always used Castrol SynTech 10W-40 in all my bikes since its introduction.  I read an article (http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm) about automotive oils vs. motorcycle oils and the result showed a clear advantage to using Mobil1 over SynTech as far as viscocity retention goes.  It also shows that SynTech and Mobil1 completely blow away M/C specific oils in their laboratory testing in a common sump motorcycle (Like the KLR). While I was making the change, I decided to try 15W-50 instead of 10W-40 since I live in Southern California and almost never see freezing weather.  Let me just say this has made a HUGE difference in my KLR's personality.  The engine is MUCH quieter, smoother and the transmission shifting is as smooth as drawn butter.  I would probably run it even in cold weather, because while it may be a little thick on startup, the hot performance of the 15W-50 is stellar. You might want to give it a try if you're so inclined. -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

[transalp 1]

Attachments : #ygrps-yiv-1171589461 p {margin:0;} Wouldn't an oil with a viscosity spread of 10W40 have fewer additives to make that stretch vs. the 15W50? Even so, the reported film strength of Mobil 1 alone convinced me a while back that it's really good oil.   If the #s in the article are accurate enough, the Mobil 1 you are now using is the equiv. of roughly 12W40 after 1500 miles. (I know that's a crude assumption).  It should bear out a 3,000 mile change interval better than ordinary 10W-40 and makes me cringe at Honda's recommedation for my 08' GL1800 of 10W30 changed every 8,000 miles. Which is why it has gotten 10W40 synthetic more often.   Keep us posted on how your oil & filter look after the next few changes and if the clutch behaves any differently.   eddie  

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@astatic.net [b]To: [/b]DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 1/4/2010 1:06:47 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] OIL.. Good Evening, Not to start a religious war, but at my latest oil change I switched brands and weights.  I have pretty much always used Castrol SynTech 10W-40 in all my bikes since its introduction.  I read an article (http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm) about automotive oils vs. motorcycle oils and the result showed a clear advantage to using Mobil1 over SynTech as far as viscocity retention goes.  It also shows that SynTech and Mobil1 completely blow away M/C specific oils in their laboratory testing in a common sump motorcycle (Like the KLR). While I was making the change, I decided to try 15W-50 instead of 10W-40 since I live in Southern California and almost never see freezing weather.  Let me just say this has made a HUGE difference in my KLR's personality.  The engine is MUCH quieter, smoother and the transmission shifting is as smooth as drawn butter.  I would probably run it even in cold weather, because while it may be a little thick on startup, the hot performance of the 15W-50 is stellar. You might want to give it a try if you're so inclined. -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

[notanymoore]

I've always used 20W50 in my 2006 KLR and found it makes a big difference in engine feel and performance over 15W40 and 10W40. Especially during the summer. Believe it or not, I've been able to start my motorcycle even in the middle of a Chicago winter with 20W50. I can't say I've ever been a fan of synthetics in my vehicles, but that's mainly because I'm more of a traditionalist.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > Good Evening, > > Not to start a religious war, but at my latest oil change I switched brands and weights. I have pretty much always used Castrol SynTech 10W-40 in all my bikes since its introduction. I read an article (http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm) about automotive oils vs. motorcycle oils and the result showed a clear advantage to using Mobil1 over SynTech as far as viscocity retention goes. It also shows that SynTech and Mobil1 completely blow away M/C specific oils in their laboratory testing in a common sump motorcycle (Like the KLR). > > While I was making the change, I decided to try 15W-50 instead of 10W-40 since I live in Southern California and almost never see freezing weather. Let me just say this has made a HUGE difference in my KLR's personality. The engine is MUCH quieter, smoother and the transmission shifting is as smooth as drawn butter. I would probably run it even in cold weather, because while it may be a little thick on startup, the hot performance of the 15W-50 is stellar. > > You might want to give it a try if you're so inclined. > > -Jeff Khoury > Astatic Solutions, LLC. >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1702468278 p {margin:0;}   Eddie, --snip-- Wouldn't an oil with a viscosity spread of 10W40 have fewer additives to make that stretch vs. the 15W50? --/snip-- As I understand it, Multi-Viscosity oil works with polymer chains that curl up tight when cold for easier starting flow (the first number) and then uncoil when hot to work like a heavier oil (the second number).  I'm not sure if there is an additive difference.  I would have used 20W-50, but it seems Mobil1 doesn't make it. --snip-- If the #s in the article are accurate enough, the Mobil 1 you are now using is the equiv. of roughly 12W40 after 1500 miles. (I know that's a crude assumption).  --/snip-- My thoughts exactly. --snip-- It should bear out a 3,000 mile change interval better than ordinary 10W-40 and makes me cringe at Honda's recommedation for my 08' GL1800 of 10W30 changed every 8,000 miles. Which is why it has gotten 10W40 synthetic more often. --/snip-- Does the GL1800 have a common sump, or does the transmission have its own separate lubrication?  If it does, then it makes sense that you can go longer between changes because it is the transmission in common sump engines that chew up the long polymer chains and cause faster viscosity breakdown. --snip-- Keep us posted on how your oil & filter look after the next few changes and if the clutch behaves any differently. --/snip-- Will do.  So far, so good.  The clutch feels fine after 400 miles or so.  I was careful to check the API seal to make sure it didn't say "Energy Conserving".  This is a dead giveaway that there is Molybdenum friction modifiers that will cause clutch slippage.  Some weights of Mobil1 have that mark, but the 10W-40 and the 20W-50 do not.  -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@... [b]To: [/b]DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 1/4/2010 1:06:47 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] OIL.. Good Evening, Not to start a religious war, but at my latest oil change I switched brands and weights.  I have pretty much always used Castrol SynTech 10W-40 in all my bikes since its introduction.  I read an article (http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm) about automotive oils vs. motorcycle oils and the result showed a clear advantage to using Mobil1 over SynTech as far as viscocity retention goes.  It also shows that SynTech and Mobil1 completely blow away M/C specific oils in their laboratory testing in a common sump motorcycle (Like the KLR). While I was making the change, I decided to try 15W-50 instead of 10W-40 since I live in Southern California and almost never see freezing weather.  Let me just say this has made a HUGE difference in my KLR's personality.  The engine is MUCH quieter, smoother and the transmission shifting is as smoot h as drawn butter.  I would probably run it even in cold weather, because while it may be a little thick on startup, the hot performance of the 15W-50 is stellar. You might want to give it a try if you're so inclined. -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "notanymoore" wrote:

> > > > I've always used 20W50 in my 2006 KLR and found it makes a big difference in engine feel and performance over 15W40 and 10W40. Especially during the summer. > > Believe it or not, I've been able to start my motorcycle even in the middle of a Chicago winter with 20W50. >

RT, It is good that you tell us what has worked well for you. Tell us more. smile. With accurate details. Now, having said all that: Tell us the actual spot temp at the location of motorcycle containing 20W50 oil. ie: a. 45F garage, OAT is much lower or b.-10F OAT and the bike is cold soaked to -10F. or 45F garage, 45F OAT, etc. This is is a whole lot different than 10F OAT and local spot temp of 45-55F of your garage, which your post does not 'adequately' disclose. Note: IMO, your measure of the proper oil viscosity makes me cringe; just because it will start is not a good indication that it should have been started with that oil. That is will start is only an indication of engine/carburetor 'tune' and battery strength. From what you have described makes me cringe--but I repeat myself. For example, I could start my 1972 XS650 with Castrol 50w at 30F, but I weep now to think the damage I did that old girl (me, age 18) by kick starting and operating her under those conditions. Just curious--how cold is it when you ride. ie. what is your cutoff point? If you like riding cold days, do your bike a favor and buy a thermobob. It will never reach operating temps if the OAT is much below 60ish, and the amount of wear/tear on your bike will be greatly reduced. Bill Watson and Jeff Saline have posted their data on their bikes reaching 195F operating temps in a matter of minutes, and for us 'penguin-riders', a bike reaching 195F is a very good thing. revmaaatin. who is a owner of 3 installed thermobobs.

[Kevin Powers]

Whoohoo, an oil thread in January, right on schedule! I'll go back to trying to stay warm and patiently wait for the gun-thread season. ;^) -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 12:06 AM, Jeff Khoury wrote: Good Evening, Not to start a religious war, but at my latest oil change I switched brands and weights. I have pretty much always used Castrol SynTech 10W-40 in all my bikes since its introduction. I read an article (http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm) about automotive oils vs. motorcycle oils and the result showed a clear advantage to using Mobil1 over SynTech as far as viscocity retention goes. It also shows that SynTech and Mobil1 completely blow away M/C specific oils in their laboratory testing in a common sump motorcycle (Like the KLR). While I was making the change, I decided to try 15W-50 instead of 10W-40 since I live in Southern California and almost never see freezing weather. Let me just say this has made a HUGE difference in my KLR's personality. The engine is MUCH quieter, smoother and the transmission shifting is as smooth as drawn butter. I would probably run it even in cold weather, because while it may be a little thick on startup, the hot performance of the 15W-50 is stellar. You might want to give it a try if you're so inclined. -Jeff Khoury Astatic Solutions, LLC.

-- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

[Jim Douglas]

STOP the madness before it goes any further.........................

> __

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[Richard Decker]

I thought that just draining the oil into a container with some cheese cloth and dumping it back in was good enough. who knew... And OOooooo a gun thread... when?!

On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:49 PM, Jim Douglas wrote: STOP the madness before it goes any further......................... > __ -- *CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:* This email, including attachments, may include confidential and/or proprietary information of Genesis Software and may be used only by the person or entity to which it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended recipient or his or her authorized agent, the reader is hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify the sender by replying to this message and delete this email immediately. ------------------------------------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: DSN_KLR650-digest@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

-- - Rich Decker Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

[Thomas Komjathy]

That's what I do. I just use what I dump from my car, because it hasn't been subject to the sheering affects of gears, so putting it in the KLR I get the full use of all my oil. Oh, and then I put two ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in there and run it for another 4K. I have over 90 K on the bike and it is running like new. TK [b]From:[/b] Richard Decker [b]To:[/b] Jim Douglas [b]Cc:[/b] DSN _KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Mon, January 4, 2010 6:04:52 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] OIL..   I thought that just draining the oil into a container with some cheese cloth and dumping it back in was good enough. who knew...   And OOooooo a gun thread.... when?!

On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 2:49 PM, Jim Douglas wrote: STOP the madness before it goes any further..... ......... ......... .. > __ -- *CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:* This email, including attachments, may include confidential and/or proprietary information of Genesis Software and may be used only by the person or entity to which it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended recipient or his or her authorized agent, the reader is hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email is prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify the sender by replying to this message and delete this email immediately. ------------ --------- --------- ------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: [url=http://www.dualsportnews..com/]www.dualsportnews. com[/url] List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/ klr650faq. html Member Map at: http://www.frappr. com/dsnklr650Yah oo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:    http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/DSN_ KLR650/ Your email settings:    Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to:    http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/DSN_ KLR650/join    (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email:    DSN_KLR650-digest@yahoogroups.com    DSN_KLR650-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:    DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:    http://docs. yahoo.com/ info/terms/

-- - Rich Decker Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

[transalp 1]

#ygrps-yiv-1536606919 p {margin:0;} The GL1800s have a shared sump - just like the KLR. 10W-30 for 8k miles? No way!   eddie    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] jeff@... --snip-- It should bear out a 3,000 mile change interval better than ordinary 10W-40 and makes me cringe at Honda's recommedation for my 08' GL1800 of 10W30 changed every 8,000 miles. Which is why it has gotten 10W40 synthetic more often. --/snip-- Does the GL1800 have a common sump, or does the transmission have its own separate lubrication?  If it does, then it makes sense that you can go longer between changes because it is the transmission in common sump engines that chew up the long polymer chains and cause faster viscosity breakdown.