petcock question

[Kevin Powers]

Sometimes you will find a chunk on a magnetic drain plug: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6F_PBGFIdKmIo3eyY8VuAA?authkey=Gv1sRgCNP1h-nKwtaXGQ&feat=directlink -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

[Thomas Komjathy]

Hey man! It's what we do.... Happy New Year. TK [b]From:[/b] Parker Jeffrey [b]To:[/b] dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Cc:[/b] John Biccum [b]Sent:[/b] Fri, January 1, 2010 3:47:07 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded?   Dear John, Jud, Jeff, Jeff, Tim, Jake, et al, Many thanks for your authoritative, educational and entertaining replies. I've learned more in this first morning of 2010 than I have in days of googling on my own. This forum is a treasure. I just hope I can pass the favor on to others. John, great quality photograph, not to mention startling! I'm wondering where you live to see if I'm close enough to join your next tech day........ Really appreciate everyone's advice.  Happy New Year to all! Jeff (in Sonoma County, CA)

On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:10 PM, John Biccum wrote:   I ve run tech days at my home and so have performed, assisted or observed  [b]dozens[/b] of doohickey replacements.  Many of these replacements have resulted in broken springs and/or broken doohickeys removed.  I personally would not want to ride a KLR into the backcountry without knowing the state of the doohickey and spring.  The new parts are cheap, the replacement is easy if you can follow well-documented instructions and the new Eagle Mike parts are a quantum improvement over the stock parts. 

 

Catastrophic failures  are relatively rare since the broken quadrant arc typically finds it was past the moving balancer chain, balancer etc.  But  the broken quadrant [b]could[/b] jam into the chain/gear interstice and that would certainly ruin your entire day if not worse.  Non-catastrophic failures might take the form of a balancer system that gradually becomes less efficient as the chain stretches.  Another common form of failure is that the owner will loosen the doohickey bolt on a bike with a broken spring only to find that the bike runs much rougher after the adjustment since the doohickey moved making the balancer chain much looser.

 

I have never seen broken spring parts come out in the oil change or adhere to a magnetic drain plug.  Much more  common is for the broken bits to be found in the oil screen, along with chunks of sealant.  This screen is typical of what I have seen at tech days: http://johnbiccum. smugmug.com/ Motorcycles/ Misc-KLR- photos/497409_ 5HfHR#20342804_ xY6tQ-A-LB

 

On balance, there are many reasons to do this simple procedure and precious few reasons not to do it.  How lucky do you feel?

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_ KLR650@yahoogrou ps.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]spike55_bmw [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 01, 2010 6:24 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded?

 

 

Jeff x 2: I have an '06 from new and did change the OEM doohickey out for an Eagle Mike version plus I used the torsion spring rather than replace the the stock tension spring with an upgraded tension spring. But first, calm down. Although I'm a relative short-timer on the list, there are very few accounts of a broken doohickey causing a catastrophic failure along the road, resulting in someone becoming wolf-bait. Many riders never change their doohickies, probably don't even know that they have one, and probably never go through the procedure to allow the system, which the doohickey is part of, to adjust itself. Yes, the pre-2008 doohickies were a crappy design of very brittle metal welded on to a hub. And, yes, the OEM tension spring can fail 5 miles off of the dealer's lot or it can become ineffectual, over time, to properly take slack out (tension) of the counter-balance system's chain when going through the self-adjusting procedure, but a little here or a little there isn't going to hurt you. Some may differ with me on this but most of us, me included, aren't trained mechanics and somewhere along the line we adopted several axioms to live by, like 'bigger is better', 'if tight is good, tighter is better', and then there is the one about blondes. I think most OEM doohickies are broken by their owners when they over-tightening them at the end of the adjustment procedure. You should be following the prescribed procedure and use a torque wrench at the end, so as not to over-tighten the bolt / over-flex the OEM doohicky / snapping it into pieces but eventually the spring needs replaced for a shorter one. I would first look at your aftermarket magnetic oil pan drain plug after some miles and some heavy leaning (falling down). That should shake things up. If that plug doesn't collect any big metal which is sharply squared off = doohickey; round and spring-like = the tension spring, you are probably OK for many more miles. Over the years, I've seen some sort of tubular scope that allows you to look in and around the adjustment bolt to inspect the doohickey but I have no experience with it. Changing the doohickey over to the stainless steel billet unit isn't easy the first time but it isn't that hard either. During this time of the year (North America) you have plenty of 'non-riding' time and plenty of friends here to help you through it. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" wrote: > > Jeff, > > thanks for raising this question. I'm in a similar state of confusion. I recently picked up a 2000 KLR that's a bit longer in the tooth than yours, with 35k miles racked up in the redwood forests of northern california. > > I did find a very expert analysis of the balancer system problems, which lists your year -- 1996 -- as a time when kawasaki partially addressed the problem. > > http://www.eagle-m-e..com/balancer_system.htm > > still, having read EagleMike's analysis, I'm still a bit fuzzy on 1) when the doohickey procedure recommends itself, and 2) whether the procedure needs repeating over time and, if so, under what circumstances. > > i too await expert guidance from this forum! > > warm regards, > Jeff in Sonoma County, CA > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Hartman wrote: > > > > This is my first attempt to ask a question on this list, so I hope I am posting this correctly. I bought a 95 KLR this fall, and and the seller did not know if the previous owner had performed the doohicky upgrade. In reviewing other KLR sites, I see lot of descriptions of how to change it out, but no easy check to find out if it has been previously upgraded. Is there some painless and non-invasive way to determine if it has been changed out? It has about 13.5 K on it, and runs great especially after new sprockets, brake pads, chain, throttle and clutch cables, and a little basic maintenance. > > > > This KLR looks like it has had a full life traveling around Southeast Alaska, but I would like to be confident that I could run up on the ferry to Haines, and explore around the back roads of the Yukon without being stranded. > > Thanks for any advice you have, > > Jeff - Juneau, Alaska > > >

[Thomas Komjathy]

Oh yeah Baby, good save!!!! I have one of those maganetic thingeez and I figured if that was good, a bunch is better so I put a handful of them thar maganets in the oil fill port. She ain't running right...Maybe I put to many maganets in... [b]From:[/b] Kevin Powers [b]To:[/b] Parker Jeffrey [b]Cc:[/b] dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com; John Biccum [b]Sent:[/b] Fri, January 1, 2010 4:06:59 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded?   Sometimes you will find a chunk on a magnetic drain plug: http://picasaweb.. google.com/ lh/photo/ 6F_PBGFIdKmIo3ey Y8VuAA?authkey= Gv1sRgCNP1h- nKwtaXGQ&feat=directlink -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

[Jeff Hartman]

I also want to express my appreciation, and agree with everything Jeffrey said about how the comprehensive review from all of you lays out the tradeoffs for doohickey replacement in my situation.  Now I just need to get the time and courage to tear into it.  If I could only head out for a short ride to one of your California tech days... Jeff  --Juneau, Alaska [b]From:[/b] Parker Jeffrey [b]To:[/b] dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Cc:[/b] John Biccum [b]Sent:[/b] Fri, January 1, 2010 11:47:07 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded?   Dear John, Jud, Jeff, Jeff, Tim, Jake, et al, Many thanks for your authoritative, educational and entertaining replies. I've learned more in this first morning of 2010 than I have in days of googling on my own. This forum is a treasure. I just hope I can pass the favor on to others. John, great quality photograph, not to mention startling! I'm wondering where you live to see if I'm close enough to join your next tech day........ Really appreciate everyone's advice.  Happy New Year to all! Jeff (in Sonoma County, CA)

On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:10 PM, John Biccum wrote:   I ve run tech days at my home and so have performed, assisted or observed  [b]dozens[/b] of doohickey replacements.  Many of these replacements have resulted in broken springs and/or broken doohickeys removed.  I personally would not want to ride a KLR into the backcountry without knowing the state of the doohickey and spring.  The new parts are cheap, the replacement is easy if you can follow well-documented instructions and the new Eagle Mike parts are a quantum improvement over the stock parts. 

 

Catastrophic failures  are relatively rare since the broken quadrant arc typically finds it was past the moving balancer chain, balancer etc.  But  the broken quadrant [b]could[/b] jam into the chain/gear interstice and that would certainly ruin your entire day if not worse.  Non-catastrophic failures might take the form of a balancer system that gradually becomes less efficient as the chain stretches.  Another common form of failure is that the owner will loosen the doohickey bolt on a bike with a broken spring only to find that the bike runs much rougher after the adjustment since the doohickey moved making the balancer chain much looser.

 

I have never seen broken spring parts come out in the oil change or adhere to a magnetic drain plug.  Much more  common is for the broken bits to be found in the oil screen, along with chunks of sealant.  This screen is typical of what I have seen at tech days: http://johnbiccum. smugmug.com/ Motorcycles/ Misc-KLR- photos/497409_ 5HfHR#20342804_ xY6tQ-A-LB

 

On balance, there are many reasons to do this simple procedure and precious few reasons not to do it.  How lucky do you feel?

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_ KLR650@yahoogrou ps.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]spike55_bmw [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 01, 2010 6:24 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded?

 

 

Jeff x 2: I have an '06 from new and did change the OEM doohickey out for an Eagle Mike version plus I used the torsion spring rather than replace the the stock tension spring with an upgraded tension spring. But first, calm down.. Although I'm a relative short-timer on the list, there are very few accounts of a broken doohickey causing a catastrophic failure along the road, resulting in someone becoming wolf-bait. Many riders never change their doohickies, probably don't even know that they have one, and probably never go through the procedure to allow the system, which the doohickey is part of, to adjust itself. Yes, the pre-2008 doohickies were a crappy design of very brittle metal welded on to a hub. And, yes, the OEM tension spring can fail 5 miles off of the dealer's lot or it can become ineffectual, over time, to properly take slack out (tension) of the counter-balance system's chain when going through the self-adjusting procedure, but a little here or a little there isn't going to hurt you. Some may differ with me on this but most of us, me included, aren't trained mechanics and somewhere along the line we adopted several axioms to live by, like 'bigger is better', 'if tight is good, tighter is better', and then there is the one about blondes. I think most OEM doohickies are broken by their owners when they over-tightening them at the end of the adjustment procedure. You should be following the prescribed procedure and use a torque wrench at the end, so as not to over-tighten the bolt / over-flex the OEM doohicky / snapping it into pieces but eventually the spring needs replaced for a shorter one. I would first look at your aftermarket magnetic oil pan drain plug after some miles and some heavy leaning (falling down). That should shake things up. If that plug doesn't collect any big metal which is sharply squared off = doohickey; round and spring-like = the tension spring, you are probably OK for many more miles. Over the years, I've seen some sort of tubular scope that allows you to look in and around the adjustment bolt to inspect the doohickey but I have no experience with it. Changing the doohickey over to the stainless steel billet unit isn't easy the first time but it isn't that hard either. During this time of the year (North America) you have plenty of 'non-riding' time and plenty of friends here to help you through it. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" wrote: > > Jeff, > > thanks for raising this question. I'm in a similar state of confusion. I recently picked up a 2000 KLR that's a bit longer in the tooth than yours, with 35k miles racked up in the redwood forests of northern california. > > I did find a very expert analysis of the balancer system problems, which lists your year -- 1996 -- as a time when kawasaki partially addressed the problem. > > http://www.eagle- m-e.com/balancer _system.htm > > still, having read EagleMike's analysis, I'm still a bit fuzzy on 1) when the doohickey procedure recommends itself, and 2) whether the procedure needs repeating over time and, if so, under what circumstances. > > i too await expert guidance from this forum! > > warm regards, > Jeff in Sonoma County, CA > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Hartman wrote: > > > > This is my first attempt to ask a question on this list, so I hope I am posting this correctly. I bought a 95 KLR this fall, and and the seller did not know if the previous owner had performed the doohicky upgrade. In reviewing other KLR sites, I see lot of descriptions of how to change it out, but no easy check to find out if it has been previously upgraded. Is there some painless and non-invasive way to determine if it has been changed out? It has about 13.5 K on it, and runs great especially after new sprockets, brake pads, chain, throttle and clutch cables, and a little basic maintenance. > > > > This KLR looks like it has had a full life traveling around Southeast Alaska, but I would like to be confident that I could run up on the ferry to Haines, and explore around the back roads of the Yukon without being stranded. > > Thanks for any advice you have, > > Jeff - Juneau, Alaska > > >

[spike55_bmw]

Jeff: If you look at various company sites that sell the billet stainless steel doohickey with a tension and torsion springs, you'll notice they sell 'kits' with the two tools you'll need and gaskets. I don't know how much equipment you have or if you know someone with a garage / cutting torch. The doohickey kits have this 'bent' wrench in them, which you'll need to get the rotor off and to put it on. You can buy it or make one. I bought one already made. It seemed to be a PITA to find and buy only one wrench (usually sold in a collection), then find a way to heat it up and bend it. I didn't have those resources. I countinue to use my wrench when working on friends' KLR doohickies and now with my engine all apart. Also, print out the procedures from the internet and have your Clymers manual (best $ I ever spent for the KLR and my BMW - very good manual - Although you are working on the 'Lower End', 'Counter-Balance System', some of the info you'll need is in the 'Electrical' Section - go through your manual mark & write notes in the margins). Find a place you can work on your bike by leaning it over to the right. If you lean it the same amount to the right that it leans to the left when on its side-stand, all of the oil will stay in the engine and not run out on the floor. This also orients the engine up towards you so it is easier to work on. Remove the shift lever and the counter-sprocket cover (dirtest area of the bike). You want to 'free up' those wires that need to move later. For your first time, use a sheet of cardboard to keep the 6mm bolts in their proper places when you go to put it together. The lengths are different for different bolts, so draw an outline on the cardboard and cut holes to hold the bolts. If you are careful when taking the two layers of cases off of the left side of the motor, you can continue to use the original gaskets over again for maybe another five 'openings', which you shouldn't need to do. Just have a puddy knife handy and make sure the gast stays attached to all one surface or the other. You'll see that the gasket will leave behind some gray gummy deposits on the 'clean' surface. Just leave them there - they will help seal the gasket upon re-assembly. As you pull to outside engine cover off, it will resist because of the magnetic attraction between the stator (coils of copper wire in the cover) and the rotor (big shiny permanent magnet on the crankshaft), which you will take off in the next few steps. Special Note: There are a set of small gears that inside that first layer of the engine. They move power from the starter to the engine. Be carefull to not lose the tiny washers on the shafts of those gears (one washer on each end of the two shafts). The one shaft is part of the gear (still has a washer on each end) and lower one has a washer at each end of the removable shaft "and" there are two sets of needle bearings inside that gear. It doesn't matter which washer goes where or if the needle bearings go in one way or the other - they just have be in there on re-assembly. Because of the oil film, people lose these washers because they might stick to one surface or the other. Just find them right away and put them in one spot. Have a piece of wire handy and loop it through one of the cover's bolt holes and tie it out of the way, so you can work on the next steps. You can only move it so far becuase of the electrical wires. The next steps will require the special wrench and the rotor-puller, which is just a big bolt but you need it. Anyway, I'll tell you more if you decide you're game to DIY. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Hartman wrote: > > I also want to express my appreciation, and agree with everything Jeffrey said about how the comprehensive review from all of you lays out the tradeoffs fordoohickey replacement in my situation. Now I just need to get the time and courage to tear into it. If I could only head out for a short ride to one of your California tech days... > Jeff --Juneau, Alaska > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Parker Jeffrey > To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Cc: John Biccum > Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 11:47:07 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been upgraded? > > > Dear John, Jud, Jeff, Jeff, Tim, Jake, et al, > > Many thanks for your authoritative, educational and entertaining replies. I've learned more in this first morning of 2010 than I have in days of googling on my own. This forum is a treasure. I just hope I can pass the favor on to others. > > John, great quality photograph, not to mention startling! I'm wondering where you live to see if I'm close enough to join your next tech day........ > > Really appreciate everyone's advice. > > Happy New Year to all! > > Jeff (in Sonoma County, CA) > > > > On Jan 1, 2010, at 12:10 PM, John Biccum wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > >I ve run tech days at my home and so have performed, assisted > >or observed dozens of doohickey replacements. Many of these > >replacements have resulted in broken springs and/or broken doohickeys > >removed. I personally would not want to ride a KLR into the backcountry without > >knowing the state of the doohickey and spring. The new parts are cheap, the > >replacement is easy if you can follow well-documented instructions and the new Eagle > >Mike parts are a quantum improvement over the stock parts. > > > >Catastrophic failures are relatively rare since the broken > >quadrant arc typically finds it was past the moving balancer chain, balancer etc. > >But the broken quadrant could jam into the chain/gear interstice and > >that would certainly ruin your entire day if not worse. Non-catastrophic > >failures might take the form of a balancer system that gradually becomes less > >efficient as the chain stretches. Another common form of failure is that the > >owner will loosen the doohickey bolt on a bike with a broken spring only to > >find that the bike runs much rougher after the adjustment since the > >doohickey moved making the balancer chain much looser. > > > >I have never seen broken spring parts come out in the oil change > >or adhere to a magnetic drain plug. Much more common is for the > >broken bits to be found in the oil screen, along with chunks of sealant. This > >screen is typical of what I have seen at tech days: http://johnbiccum.. smugmug.com/ Motorcycles/ Misc-KLR- photos/497409_ 5HfHR#20342804_ xY6tQ-A-LB > > > >On balance, there are many reasons to do this simple procedure > >and precious few reasons not to do it. How lucky do you feel? > > > >> > >From:>DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_ KLR650@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of spike55_bmw > >Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 6:24 AM > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: How do I tell if my doohicky has been > >upgraded? > > > > > >> > >> > >Jeff x 2: > >>I have an '06 from new and did change the OEM doohickey out for an Eagle Mike > >version plus I used the torsion spring rather than replace the the stock > >tension spring with an upgraded tension spring. > > > >>But first, calm down. Although I'm a relative short-timer on the list, there > >are very few accounts of a broken doohickey causing a catastrophic failure > >along the road, resulting in someone becoming wolf-bait. Many riders never > >change their doohickies, probably don't even know that they have one, and > >probably never go through the procedure to allow the system, which the > >doohickey is part of, to adjust itself. > > > >>Yes, the pre-2008 doohickies were a crappy design of very brittle metal welded > >on to a hub. And, yes, the OEM tension spring can fail 5 miles off of the > >dealer's lot or it can become ineffectual, over time, to properly take slack > >out (tension) of the counter-balance system's chain when going through the > >self-adjusting procedure, but a little here or a little there isn't going to > >hurt you. > > > >>Some may differ with me on this but most of us, me included, aren't trained > >mechanics and somewhere along the line we adopted several axioms to live by, > >like 'bigger is better', 'if tight is good, tighter is better', and then there > >is the one about blondes. I think most OEM doohickies are broken by their > >owners when they over-tightening them at the end of the adjustment procedure. > >You should be following the prescribed procedure and use a torque wrench at the > >end, so as not to over-tighten the bolt / over-flex the OEM doohicky / snapping > >it into pieces but eventually the spring needs replaced for a shorter one. > > > >>I would first look at your aftermarket magnetic oil pan drain plug after some > >miles and some heavy leaning (falling down). That should shake things up. If > >that plug doesn't collect any big metal which is sharply squared off = > >doohickey; round and spring-like = the tension spring, you are probably OK for > >many more miles. > > > >>Over the years, I've seen some sort of tubular scope that allows you to look in > >and around the adjustment bolt to inspect the doohickey but I have no > >experience with it. > > > >>Changing the doohickey over to the stainless steel billet unit isn't easy the > >first time but it isn't that hard either. During this time of the year (North > >America) you have plenty of 'non-riding' time and plenty of friends here to > >help you through it. > > > >>Don R100, A6F > > > >>--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, > >"Jeff" wrote: > >>> > >>> Jeff, > >>> > >>> thanks for raising this question. I'm in a similar state of confusion. I > >recently picked up a 2000 KLR that's a bit longer in the tooth than yours, with > >35k miles racked up in the redwood forests of northern california. > >>> > >>> I did find a very expert analysis of the balancer system problems, which > >lists your year -- 1996 -- as a time when kawasaki partially addressed the > >problem. > >>> > >>> http://www.eagle- m-e.com/balancer _system.htm > >>> > >>> still, having read EagleMike's analysis, I'm still a bit fuzzy on 1) when > >the doohickey procedure recommends itself, and 2) whether the procedure needs > >repeating over time and, if so, under what circumstances. > >>> > >>> i too await expert guidance from this forum! > >>> > >>> warm regards, > >>> Jeff in Sonoma County, CA > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, > >Jeff Hartman wrote: > >>> > > >>> > This is my first attempt to ask a question on this list, so I hope I > >am posting this correctly. I bought a 95 KLR this fall, and and the seller did > >not know if the previous owner had performed the doohicky upgrade. In reviewing > >other KLR sites, I see lot of descriptions of how to change it out, but no easy > >check to find out if it has been previously upgraded. Is there some painless > >and non-invasive way to determine if it has been changed out? It has about 13.5 > >K on it, and runs great especially after new sprockets, brake pads, chain, > >throttle and clutch cables, and a little basic maintenance.. > >>> > > >>> > This KLR looks like it has had a full life traveling around Southeast > >Alaska, but I would like to be confident that I could run up on the ferry to > >Haines, and explore around the back roads of the Yukon without being stranded. > >>> > Thanks for any advice you have, > >>> > Jeff - Juneau, Alaska > >>> > > >>> > > > > >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Jeff, IN CASE no one mentioned this site: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/ Go to it, scroll down the left side to the doohickey instructions and print them out and study them. They're pretty much all you'll need to do your 'Doo (PLUS tools of course....). I did mine 5 years ago, but refer to Mark's instructions each time I go back in, lastly to put Eagle Mikes "torsion spring" which we ALL highly recommend! Cheers, Ed

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RAY TRUJILLO wrote:

> > Does anyone have a fuel petcock for an 03 KLR650 for sale? Or where is the best place for me to look online? Thanks in advance for any help. > > Larry > '03 KLR650 >

Ray, Unless your is destroyed, you can easily get a rebuild kit from Fred at http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com/ I bought mine there. I suggest you take the tank off to pull the petcock--as you will (I did) find it difficult to reach R/R one of the bolts properly. ymmv. revmaaatin.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Powers wrote:

> > Sometimes you will find a chunk on a magnetic drain plug: > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6F_PBGFIdKmIo3eyY8VuAA?authkey=Gv1sRgCNP1h-nKwtaXGQ&feat=directlink > > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN >

Hi Kevin, Nice pic. In-my-mind there is that same photo of my drain plug. Now the rest of the story-- Feb 08 I bought a heavily farkled 20K smile 98KLR650 in Dallas, TX for a very good price considering the farkles. Fast forward to the End of April and a 26 hour bus ride, I arrived in Dallas, TX ~1230. By 1600 I was loaded and was headed NE out of town. Prior to my arrival, the previous owner, #3 (me, the rev = #4) did a courtesy oil change and installed a magnetic drain plug that he had purchased but had not previously installed. I remember thinking, this is odd--that many miles and this much farkle but never had a mag-drain plug-- A 20K mile bike and it has lived its entire life without a magnetic oil plug. The ride home was described here in the DSN as the Tattered Flag Tour--cause that is what I felt like when I finally arrived in South Dakota some days later. A most enjoyable ride out of TX, into OK, AR (scenic route #7), MO, Iowa, NE and MO except for the constant 40+mph winds, and a 200 mile ride in the dark to stay ahead of a dangerous storm front. That front spawned a tornado, it killed 4 people in SW Missouri--in an area that I contemplated camping for the night, until told they were in a Tornado watch. Yet I digress. Finally: Arriving in SD, I had a down day, and prepped for a 4 day ride in the black hills. My riding partner, AJ Clifford, Aberdeen, SD arrived at my home to find me changing a chain/sprocket set that was only miles from completely exploding--as most of the rollers had been left on the trail in the last 200 miles--looked good during the the last chain lube. Wow. Dodged a bullet there. I figure the OEM chain was at 21.5K and it did not owe me anything at that point. The previous owner, a most gracious man had already provided a full set of drive components and I was out a few minutes of time to change them out. Just like a fine horse--it carried me home before dying inside the corral gate. yeah, over simplified, but that is how it happened. Onward- AJ and I pushed off--arriving at Jeff Saline's, via the Rosebud Reservation. We make a visit to AJ's home-bound grandfather in Martin, SD--followed by a very emotional-visit to the site of Wounded Knee. (NOTE: if you ride into SD, make Wounded Knee, a must-see destination). We pushed NW, taking a 26 mile short-cut (BIA #2, SE of Hermosa, SD) over a road that had deteriorated into marbles-over-pudding with only one get off by me. Crazy road spit me out and left me standing in the middle without an iron-horse KLR (under me). AJ graded the dismount a strong 6. The cowboy who watched the whole thing thought us crazy. No dismount shame here--AJ was still ahead in the daily/dismount-dirtnap by one. The sky continued to darken, and just as we reached Hermosa, the clouds started to cry--big tears from that same wx front that chased me out of TX--the front actually arriving at Jeff's house about 2 hours before we did. Rain. Lots of it. But thankfully, no lightning. Seems to me, there was much laughter about 'everywhere I (the rev)go, I seem to attract rain.' Well, maybe so. We make a 225 mile trip from my house to Jeff's in only 425 miles. What could be better than that! The next morning, Jeff, AJ and I talked about wrenching, or riding. To wet to do much real dirt, but could ride some pavement, and some well graveled mt roads. There were parts waiting is Surges so-- Off we went. I turned on the rain magnet about 5 miles out just to make it interesting--and the dumb thing worked 4.0. We climbed into the mountains and the visibility dropped--because we entered into the base of the clouds. The temp dropped immediately. Nary another motorcycle on the road. cough. nary another cage on the road either because it is no longer raining. It is now snowing. Snowflakes big enough to drink. I am dash three as Jeff leads us up Vanocker Canyon and thankfully, over the crest. Jeff and AJ are just a blur of white and LED tail/brake lights--as seen through my constantly fogging face shield, as both of them now look like snowmen on a motorcycle. We arrive at our initial destination of the Sturgis BMW and the horrified look of the salesman as three snow-clad smile-bound motorcyclist enter their previously pristine showroom. "Come on in!" I think they are lying--it was said with way to much enthusiasm. and laughter. What could possibly be so funny. I look to see if my fly is open. Nope. Didn't check Jeff or AJ. shrug. Jeff is well known to them--and the go to guy for airhead support in the Black Hills area. We kibitz, and drip on the floor and counter--make a purchase of something or another and depart. Leaving a triple trail of snow-melt. And laughter. We depart and retrace our route, over the pass and once again punching into white-oblivion of instrument motorcycle rules before finally finding the bottom of the clouds and into a temp that a KLR would enjoy; ~40F. No Virgina, no heated grips--yet. Jeff has his on HIGH and probably is having the most fun. smile. It is all good. We continue to descend into warmer air. I believe it acutally got up to 50F. The snow slacked on the South side of the pass giving us a break and we ride a total of 169 miles--all of it thoroughly enjoyable because--we have the right machines and they are correctly tuned for this environment. After getting out of the clouds, we had a relatively 'dry' day for the rest of the trip. It turned out to be a very good choice to ride that day instead of wrench. Returning to Jeff's, we wash down the bikes--as tomorrow the forecast will place us in the teeth of that front that has trailed me from TX. It definitely will be a tech day for three. The day dawns and the clouds weep aligator tears. Are we glad we went for a ride the day before! Well, if you can't ride, wrench. AJ and I both had previously completed dohickey upgrades w/springs. Through PPPPPP, Jeff previously ordered Eagle Mike's torsion springs--anticipating our arrival for that first week of May. Today, is that day. We started a simultaneous tear down, and installation. Finishing mine, I did an oil change--and found the lower part of the dohickey stuck to the magnetic oil plug! I was not happy, to say the least. That lever had been changed early in the dohickey discussions, as we believed it to be one of Jakes's original dohickey, and that chunk-of-junk had been down there all along. Point of all that--install a magnetic drain plug. I had a pretty good tech day. Hard wired (AJ did it) two outlet plugs heated grips as I recall. Blade fuses installed--plug and play, Oil change Big washer welded to the side stand. Thermobob installed antifreeze change Jeff welded on the saddlebag racks. We pushed off on Mother's day--to return home. and it was interesting as well. Eagles, ospreys, wild turkeys, low fuel, raging creeks (crossed on a bridge) Pie in Union Center horrible headwinds, and 125mph indicated on the speedo. shrug. 125 mph. Something screwy about that. Which reminds me-- Might be the rain magnet. Need to check to see if I got that turned off. Naw. At -18F (yesterday),and wind chills today hitting -20F, it will wait. revmaaatin.