upgrades or replacement? - correction

[spike55_bmw]

Recent discussions with Mike Martin have pointed out an error in my recent posts on internal engine bolts torque values. I have confussed the required socket size, bolt shaft diameter, threaded area diameter, and nominal bolt sizing nomenclature and used the wrong torque values on the wrong bolts. An 8mm socket drives a something less than 6mm shaft / threaded area dia bolt but the Chap 5 torque table calls it a 6mm bolt. The same is true for a 10mm socket driven bolt but it is actually less than 8mm shaft dia / threaded area dia but it is call an 8mm bolt in the table. I, therefore, used torque values associated with those socket sizes, not the correct nominal bolt diameters. There are some other logic faux pauxs but I wanted to keep the list short, so as not to look like a total nut. I apologize for this misinformation and will post this 'correction' to any other thread that needs updated. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > Dave: > As you know, my '06 is down for some 'deep maintenance' (transmission inspection [insp], clutch insp, water pump insp, oil screen insp, cylinder insp - ball honed, piston / rings insp, head / valves insp, (6) grease fittings on rear suspension, fork tubes insp, miscellaneous electric issues with homemade dashboard, new hand grips (right-side melted from hi heat setting last Dec on a wet ride). > > If and when you split the engine cases in half, I would suggest getting new 6mm bolts for those locations "not" on the perimeter of the case. I started to put mine together and most of the 6mm bolts around the front counter-balance shaft snapped off long before reaching proper torque but all of the perimeter 6mm and the three (3) larger non-perimeter 8mm were fine. These 6mm bolts are $1.43 ea from the dealer, so I'd have them onhand prior to reassembly (I'm glad the weather is so crappy around here - Pennsylvania - plenty of time to wait for parts). Luckily, these 6mm snapped off above the bolt hole and were easy to extract but... you end up with fresh YamaBond all over the place that needs cleaned up. > > Another observation is the difference I see in the YamaBond vs whatever Kawi used on the original assembly. I don't think I'll ever find anything on the oil screen on later inspections. Dried YamaBond is a bugger to get off a properly cleaned surface. The Kawi stuff could be rolled off with your fingers (like that rubber snot that magazines use to hold on removable labels). I now need a small brass wire brush (doesn't scratch the aluminum) to remove errant YamaBond. I hope that bodes well in preventing any future oil leaks along that seam. > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "David H" wrote: > > > > Kinda my thoughs on the rebuild, mine is still going strong, for now, just looking for ideas for the future, it is getting close to needing some stuff soon, instead of replacing with kind, might as well upgrade and trying to get a plan so as not to repete anything. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hal gainous" wrote: > > > > > > I bet you can find a pretty new klr for $3000.(less than 10,000 miles) > > > somebody's always getting out or upgrading. > > > I found a 2006 with 3000 miles and $1,700 worth of nifty upgrades > > > for $3000 in mid 2007. > > > rebuilding one would be very educational. > > > > > >

[false]

Selling 1996 KLR 650, 6400 miles, most parts replaced with 07 parts, runs good email for pictures and questions. 2400.00 comes with parts take offs. barry_h56@... 7138352995 Houston TX 'A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have..' - Thomas Jefferson