oil change intervals

[Luc Legrain]

Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . Thanks

[Thomas Komjathy]

Depends on how many miles you have on it. do try to find a shop that can bore and hone with a torque plate for the best piston to cylinder fitment. [b]From:[/b] Luc Legrain [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, December 9, 2009 11:45:08 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . Thanks

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Komjathy wrote:

> > Depends on how many miles you have on it. do try to find a shop that can bore and hone with a torque plate for the best piston to cylinder fitment. > >

~~~I was under the impression you sent Snitz your barrel and THEY did the boring, but you're now on your own to find someone to do the head porting Jake Reddick Fla.

> > > ________________________________ > From: Luc Legrain > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Wed, December 9, 2009 11:45:08 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit > > > Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . > Thanks >

[spike55_bmw]

Well: 1. Address any accessory wiring from that 'rat's nest' on top of your battery. 2. Address any wiring that runs under the seat or tank. 3. Address any carb work: check float levels; fuel/air mixture screw setting, check diaphragm - make sure you don't damage the plastic collar around the choke cable. 4. Install the 'Y' breather tube on the carb so it doesn't cut out if you are in 'motor-deep' water - run the other hose under the seat. 5. Clean and re-oil your air filter. 6. Spend $4.00 at Auto Zone (part # 2722 I think) for a PCV valve and install. 7. Any fuel / vacuum leaks associated with the petcock. 8. Valve / shim clearances. 9. Valve timing. 10. I'd use YamaBond 4 to hold the rubber valve cover gasket to the cylinder head - keeps it in place; I also YamaBond-ed the rubber washers around each valve cover bolt (4) to the valve cover. 11. New spark plug. 12. Oil and filter change. 13. New antifreeze - the stuff does wear out. 14. Buy and install a Thermo-Bob (forget installing the new temperature scale - you want the protection of the Thermo-Bob, not the headaches of tearing apart the instrument cluster - It works fine without it). 15. Check the torque on your foot peg bolts. 16. Check the slack in the drive chain - I always put 200# - 250# of sand bags on the seat and tail rack to make sure the chain isn't too tight. 17. Buy a new exhaust header pipe 'crush' gasket (pipe to head interface). 18. Check that those two muffler bolts are secure (Kawi recalla while back). 19. I don't know how you feel about this but it is a good time to reroute all three (3) fuses over to the starter relay cover and convert them to the waterproof housing and blade fuses. 20. It would be a good time to get rid of that 'squeeker' of a horn - I bolted right in a Stebel Magnum 130dB "LOW TONE" with the help of a supplied metal tab - You can use the existing wiring without mods, its cheap, and it is a lot louder than the OEM but not as good as the "AIR BLASTER", but again I'm cheap and it's good enough. I'm sure I missed a thing or two. Not all of this is neccessary to get down the road. Just an opinion in many. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . > Thanks >

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 08:45:08 -0800 (PST) Luc Legrain writes:

> Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you > all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must > Be done and the could be done . > Thanks

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Luc, Sorry for the late reply but I've been on the road since Wednesday morning and just got home this evening. To the best of my knowledge if your KLR650 is running well you don't need to do anything more for the 685 install than resize the cylinder and resize a new headgasket (the hole will be too small on a stock gasket) and reassemble with new o-rings and gaskets. Carb jetting and valve clearances etc should be fine as is. Oh, coolant change would be needed at the same time as the 685 kit install. Stuff you might want to consider could be new valve seals since the head will be off. I think cost of each seal is about $11 or so and you'd need four. A Thermo-Bob is a good add on for a KLR as far as I'm concerned. I know Wattman and he was instrumental in helping me information and advice with both my Thermo-Bob like stat housing construction and the dual radiator conversion on my bike. I know both mods work and I think the Thermo-Bob should garner serious consideration for bikes ridden in temps below 70 degrees. I suppose a doohickey check would be easy to do if you felt like it as would an oil screen cleaning. I'll be adding a torsion spring to my KLR when I do my 685 kit. I swapped an EagleMike long doohickey spring for a short spring about 3 months before the torsion spring became available. It's finally time to add the torsion spring with my next engine work. If a guy wanted to do head work for more power that could be done. I don't think the cost is worth the results so won't be doing it to my head. Hope this is helpful. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Hotel Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=7FZWccbINlpn8llgm12I8QAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATRAAAAAA=

[Jeff Saline]

Attachments : #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 .ygrps-yiv-1481325363ygrp-photo-title { CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363ygrp-photo { BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;HEIGHT:62px;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 P { CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1481325363ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-1481325363 DIV { MARGIN:0px;} Depends on how many miles you have on it. do try to find a shop that can bore and hone with a torque plate for the best piston to cylinder fitment. [b]From:[/b] Luc Legrain [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, December 9, 2009 11:45:08 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . Thanks   ____________________________________________________________ Unsecured Loan Get an Unsecured Loan - Fast and Low Cost. Click here!

[Thomas Komjathy]

Hi Jeff  You are correct, the bore should be kept cool and at a constant temperature when bored. We were testing some thoughts we had about boring and because the KLR has such a big bore, we decided to test our theory on it. We measured the bore at 70 degrees, no torque plate, then installed and torqued the cylinder and found some distortion. Then we heated the cylinder to 200 degrees in an oil bath, measured the bore and found different readings as well. The final step was; we heated the cylinder, applied the torque plate and found a third set of readings/measurements. So we, heated to 200 degrees, applied the torque plate, bored and honed; the oil bath kept the cylinder at a constant 200 degrees and carried the interface heat between the bit and sleeve away quickly. It is the best sealing cylinder we have bored and honed so far. We also heated the piston and measured it, then matched the clearances between the bore and piston. I know this sounds a bit laborious for a boring job, but it was really more about testing thoughts on boring, I'm weird like that. TK [b]From:[/b] Jeff Saline [b]To:[/b] DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Mon, December 14, 2009 12:48:23 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Fw: Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   List,   Sorry about the blank e-mail.  Yahoo sometimes won't show messages from Juno accounts but sends the original message.  Hopefully this comes through.  Below is what I sent to Thomas.   Best,   Jeff <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Thomas,   Last winter I did a bit of research on the need for torque plates for KLR cylinder boring.  The advice I got from the "experts" was torque plates were not needed for the KLR650 cylinders.  What is needed is making sure the cylinder doesn't get "hot" during the boring or honing process.   Best,   Jeff Saline ABC # 4412  South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT     ----- Forwarded Message ----- [b]From:[/b] Thomas Komjathy [b]To:[/b] Luc Legrain , DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Date:[/b] Wed, 9 Dec 2009 09:07:16 -0800 (PST) [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit [b]Message-ID:[/b] [b]References:[/b]   Depends on how many miles you have on it. do try to find a shop that can bore and hone with a torque plate for the best piston to cylinder fitment. [b]From:[/b] Luc Legrain yahoo.com> [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, December 9, 2009 11:45:08 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . Thanks ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ Save $10 on Flowers and Gifts! Shop now at www.ftd.com/ 16714

[Jeff Saline]

Attachments : #ygrps-yiv-985899394 .ygrps-yiv-985899394ygrp-photo-title { CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394ygrp-photo { BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;HEIGHT:62px;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 P { CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV.ygrps-yiv-985899394ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-985899394 DIV { MARGIN:0px;} Hi Jeff  You are correct, the bore should be kept cool and at a constant temperature when bored. We were testing some thoughts we had about boring and because the KLR has such a big bore, we decided to test our theory on it. We measured the bore at 70 degrees, no torque plate, then installed and torqued the cylinder and found some distortion. Then we heated the cylinder to 200 degrees in an oil bath, measured the bore and found different readings as well. The final step was; we heated the cylinder, applied the torque plate and found a third set of readings/measurements. So we, heated to 200 degrees, applied the torque plate, bored and honed; the oil bath kept the cylinder at a constant 200 degrees and carried the interface heat between the bit and sleeve away quickly. It is the best sealing cylinder we have bored and honed so far. We also heated the piston and measured it, then matched the clearances between the bore and piston. I know this sounds a bit laborious for a boring job, but it was really more about testing thoughts on boring, I'm weird like that. TK [b]From:[/b] Jeff Saline salinej1@juno.com> [b]To:[/b] DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Mon, December 14, 2009 12:48:23 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Fw: Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   List,   Sorry about the blank e-mail.  Yahoo sometimes won't show messages from Juno accounts but sends the original message.  Hopefully this comes through.  Below is what I sent to Thomas.   Best,   Jeff <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Thomas,   Last winter I did a bit of research on the need for torque plates for KLR cylinder boring.  The advice I got from the "experts" was torque plates were not needed for the KLR650 cylinders.  What is needed is making sure the cylinder doesn't get "hot" during the boring or honing process.   Best,   Jeff Saline ABC # 4412  South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT     ----- Forwarded Message ----- [b]From:[/b] Thomas Komjathy klrsisfiddy@yahoo.com> [b]To:[/b] Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@yahoo.com>, DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Date:[/b] Wed, 9 Dec 2009 09:07:16 -0800 (PST) [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit [b]Message-ID:[/b] 786090.74638.qm@web113817.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> [b]References:[/b] 776294.15703.qm@web33906.mail.mud.yahoo.com>   Depends on how many miles you have on it. do try to find a shop that can bore and hone with a torque plate for the best piston to cylinder fitment. [b]From:[/b] Luc Legrain yahoo.com> [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, December 9, 2009 11:45:08 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] KLR 650 : 685 kit   Well ... Winter project " 685 kit ". Besides the basics what do you all suggest should be done while the motor is open . Gimme the Must Be done and the could be done . Thanks ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ ___ Save $10 on Flowers and Gifts! Shop now at www.ftd.com/ 16714   ____________________________________________________________ Cash Advance Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.

[SM]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > If a guy wanted to do head work for more power that could be done. I > don't think the cost is worth the results so won't be doing it to my > head.

That's a pretty subjective view there, Jeff. You're looking at more than a 7% (41 vs. 38 horsepower) peak increase according to this chart: http://www.patmanracing.com/Image%20host/eXcel-dyno-chart-A.jpg This page is pretty comprehensive regarding power gains through different mods: http://www.patmanracing.com/klrdyno.htm Looks like it is pretty evenly spread across the whole rpm range, too. Thanks CA Stu A13

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 02:01:14 -0000 "SM" writes:

> > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline > wrote: > > > > If a guy wanted to do head work for more power that could be done. > I > > don't think the cost is worth the results so won't be doing it to > my > > head. > > That's a pretty subjective view there, Jeff. > > You're looking at more than a 7% (41 vs. 38 horsepower) peak > increase according to this chart: > http://www.patmanracing.com/Image%20host/eXcel-dyno-chart-A.jpg > > This page is pretty comprehensive regarding power gains through > different mods: > http://www.patmanracing.com/klrdyno.htm > > Looks like it is pretty evenly spread across the whole rpm range, > too. > > Thanks > CA Stu A13

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Stu, Yup, subjective alright. : ) I took a very quick look at the dyno results. I didn't see where headwork along was documented. Although the dyno results show improvement I stand by my view that the head work isn't worth the money to me. The 685 kit is worth the money in my opinion if a person wants to stop an oil burner or gain a little extra power. No matter what mods you do you still basically have a KLR. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Criminal Lawyer Criminal Lawyers - Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=QjYFcuPMDrbGBTNZSwMEbAAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAiFgAAAAA=