klr 650 : overheating/freezing

[spike55_bmw]

Not my finest work trying to drill these odd-shaped pieces but I think it'll be way better than having to pull this all apart to do the routine lubrication. Three new pictures in photo section. Once installed, I'll be back to the engine together. Everything has gone through the parts washer and is very clean and very dry. Need to spray some oil around in there before starting to seal it up. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > I just posted some before and after pictures of the swing arm. What a slimy dirty rotten mess getting 3.5 yrs worth of crud off of the chain guard and slider areas. I used a large kitty litter bucket with 2 gals of oil partswasher fluid. Plan to mix that in with my waste oil for a friend's garage heater. > > Removing the pivot bolt was a bit tense, as you can see it was rusty in the middle and held fast to the sleeve through the pivot lever. I'm not sure there is a long term cure for the rust, since greasing it will allow the bearing's inner sleeve to rotate around the bolt rather than having the surrounding needle bearings rotate around the sleeve, as designed. > > I now have to re-read the 'watt-man' files on Zerk installation. More later. > > BTW - I now have a new base and head gasket for the cylinder (ball-honed in new cross-hatching but otherwise stock). All stock ring gaps were well within spec after 22.6K, so I'll keep it stock. > > Don R100, A6F >

[mechanizeinc]

I wouldn't "spray" any oil inside the case halves before reassembly. Just a drop or two (NO MORE)on each bearing will prevent that oil from running on and fowling up the sealing faces between case halves and engine covers you just finished cleaning. As a matter of fact, even though the components are "very clean and very dry," I'd recommend burning off any and all remaining moisture on the sealing surfaces of the case halves with a butane or propane torch right before assembly with Yamabond/Hondabond type non drying "pookie." Just warm (not hot) the case seal face with the flame (not an oxy/acetylene as axe) until the condensation that wicks to the surface is vaporized. Just my $.02 Thanks for your post. Reminded me that I need to go pull the flush mounted set screws, reinstall my zerks and squeeze some fresh green grease in my swing arm assembly and pull and grease the bolts. Did you drill escape weep holes? I didn't. When I grease 'em up the chambers fill w/ pressure 'till the seal blows and then I wipe away the excess and re seat the seal. Dang, I still haven't done my head bearings yet. Good luck with your engine build! Mech

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > Not my finest work trying to drill these odd-shaped pieces but I think it'll be way better than having to pull this all apart to do the routine lubrication. Three new pictures in photo section. > > Once installed, I'll be back to the engine together. Everything has gone through the parts washer and is very clean and very dry. Need to spray some oil around in there before starting to seal it up. > > Don R100, A6F > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > I just posted some before and after pictures of the swing arm. What a slimy dirty rotten mess getting 3.5 yrs worth of crud off of the chain guard and slider areas. I used a large kitty litter bucket with 2 gals of oil partswasher fluid. Plan to mix that in with my waste oil for a friend's garage heater. > > > > Removing the pivot bolt was a bit tense, as you can see it was rusty in the middle and held fast to the sleeve through the pivot lever. I'm not sure there is a long term cure for the rust, since greasing it will allow the bearing's inner sleeve to rotate around the bolt rather than having the surrounding needle bearings rotate around the sleeve, as designed. > > > > I now have to re-read the 'watt-man' files on Zerk installation. More later. > > > > BTW - I now have a new base and head gasket for the cylinder (ball-honed in new cross-hatching but otherwise stock). All stock ring gaps were well within spec after 22.6K, so I'll keep it stock. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > >

[spike55_bmw]

Good idea on preheating the engive casings. We are in a roller-coaster weather pattern: was low 50s but now high 20s. I might bring them inside the night before gluing them together. Wasn't going to go crazy prelubing the surfaces but I don't want to have a completely 'dry' startup in any of those seldom wetted surfaces. You can see in the swing arm pics that I did install weep holes. I moved the bearings around to get a clear shot when drilling but in hindsight it would have been better to not have the bearings in there at all when drilling since I now have to flush / blast out any of the aluminum shavings that got on them. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "mechanizeinc" wrote: > > I wouldn't "spray" any oil inside the case halves before reassembly. Just a drop or two (NO MORE)on each bearing will prevent that oil from running on and fowling up the sealing faces between case halves and engine covers you just finished cleaning. As a matter of fact, even though the components are "very clean and very dry," I'd recommend burning off any and all remaining moisture on the sealing surfaces of the case halves with a butane or propane torch right before assembly with Yamabond/Hondabond type non drying "pookie." Just warm (not hot) the case seal face with the flame (not an oxy/acetylene as axe) until the condensation that wicks to the surface is vaporized. Just my $.02 > > Thanks for your post. Reminded me that I need to go pull the flush mounted set screws, reinstall my zerks and squeeze some fresh green grease in my swing arm assembly and pull and grease the bolts. > Did you drill escape weep holes? I didn't. When I grease 'em up the chambers fill w/ pressure 'till the seal blows and then I wipe away the excess and re seat the seal. > > Dang, I still haven't done my head bearings yet. > > Good luck with your engine build! > > Mech > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > Not my finest work trying to drill these odd-shaped pieces but I think it'll be way better than having to pull this all apart to do the routine lubrication. Three new pictures in photo section. > > > > Once installed, I'll be back to the engine together. Everything has gone through the parts washer and is very clean and very dry. Need to spray some oil around in there before starting to seal it up. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > > > I just posted some before and after pictures of the swing arm. What a slimy dirty rotten mess getting 3.5 yrs worth of crud off of the chain guard and slider areas. I used a large kitty litter bucket with 2 gals of oil partswasher fluid. Plan to mix that in with my waste oil for a friend's garage heater. > > > > > > Removing the pivot bolt was a bit tense, as you can see it was rusty in the middle and held fast to the sleeve through the pivot lever. I'm not sure there is a long term cure for the rust, since greasing it will allow the bearing's inner sleeve to rotate around the bolt rather than having the surrounding needle bearings rotate around the sleeve, as designed. > > > > > > I now have to re-read the 'watt-man' files on Zerk installation. More later. > > > > > > BTW - I now have a new base and head gasket for the cylinder (ball-honed in new cross-hatching but otherwise stock). All stock ring gaps were well within spec after 22.6K, so I'll keep it stock. > > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > >

[Luc Legrain]

The most important and necessary piece of equipment I have ever added to my A-19 is the ThermoBob, well worth the money, i am riding to work in 20 degrees weather now, and 95-100 in the summer . that thing WORKS . All KLR riders should add one to their rides . GET ONE !!! Luc -- trying to find a solution for the male shrinkage problem----