loud pipes nklr

[Jeff Khoury]

Good Morning All, I know this info is probably old news to most people on this list, but I'm writing a series of motorcycle maintenance and repair articles on my blog. These started out as posts to this and other lists and the thought occurred to me that I should collect my old posts, clean them up and post them so I didn't have to keep-rewriting them all the time. I though I'd post this one here for peer review (Please be gentle). The articles to follow will be about carburetor theory, cleaning, rebuilding and jetting then probably moving on to other topics. Feedback is always welcome. Care and feeding of your carbureted motorcycle: Among the most common problems that people have with their motorcycles are plugged jets and passageways in the carburetor(s). This clogging is caused by varnish that accumulates over time due to the evaporation of the gasoline in the bowls and passageways of the carb. The varnish consists of gasoline additives, and here in California we have more additives in our gas than just about anywhere in the country. To prevent this, there are some very simple steps you can take to save yourself time and/or money with carburetor problems. I will give several methods in order of preference to keep the varnish from forming: Method #1: Ride your motorcycle This one is the easiest and most fun. Riding your motorcycle often (every few days at least) will keep fresh gasoline in the carburetor bowls and will prevent the gas in the tank from going sour over time. Riding your motorcycle also has the added side benefit of reducing stress and generally having a good time. Method #2: Drain your carb(s) if you plan to store your motorcycle for more than a week. Draining your carbs is easy and the best way to keep varnish from forming. On most bikes, all you need is a short length of rubber tubing, a screwdriver and a small bottle. On the bottom of most carbs, you will see a small nipple on the very bottom of the bowl, and there will be a valve screw in the bowl as well. Turn off the fuel petcock* (see below), then simply put one end of the tube on the nipple, the other in the bottle and loosen the screw a bit. A small amount of gas will drain into your bottle from each bowl. Tighten the screw when you're done, and be careful not to over-tighten. When you've drained them all, pour the gas back in to the tank, not on the ground or sewer, please. When it comes time to start your bike, turn on your fuel, wait a minute or two for the bowls to fill and crank away. Depending on the type of fuel delivery, it may take quite a bit of cranking to start, especially if you have a vacuum-powered fuel pump. Gravity-fed bikes and MOST bikes with electric fuel pumps usually start right up. Method #3: Run your carbs dry. This method is not as preferable as draining, but it will help significantly to extend the length of time between carburetor rebuilds. The process is simple, but cannot be performed on a bike with a vacuum-controlled petcock. Turn the petcock to [off] and start the bike. Hold the throttle open to about 1/4 throttle to ensure that the main jets are active. This draws fuel from a lower part of the bowl than the pilot (idle) jets and will remove more fuel from the bowls. There will still be some fuel left and varnish will form in the bottom of the bowls, but at least it won't be on the jets. Method #4: Use a fuel stabilizer This is the least-preferred method, but it's better than nothing. Use the recommended amount of "Sta-bil" or "Sea Foam" fuel additives that will retard varnish formation. Make sure you add it to the tank and ride a few miles to make sure that it makes it down into the bowls from the tank, and make sure your petcock is off. Long-term storage: If you plan to store your bike for more than a month, drain the tank in addition to the carburetors. Over time, the same evaporation happens in the tank and can varnish your tank and fill it with sediment. Even longer periods of storage can make the gas in the tank unusable sickly-sweet smelling sludge. The time you take draining it can save hours of work cleaning and rebuilding your fuel system. * There are two types of fuel petcocks: standard and vacuum-controlled. The standard ones are marked [on - off - res]. The vacuum-controlled ones are typically marked [on - pri - res]. If you have a vacuum-controlled petcock, the fuel is only turned on when vacuum is applied via a second hose from one of the intakes when in the [on] or [res] positions. [Pri] stands for "Prime" and is the equivalent of [res] on standard petcocks. -Jeff Khoury [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rick McCauley]

Excellent advice. If i may, I would like to add to Step #2. Once the carb(s) is drained, I like to stick the skinny red tube thingy, that comes with carb cleaner, up the hose you used to drain the carbs. Spray carb cleaner in thru the hose until you are sure the bowl has had a good flushing. Allow the carb cleaner to drain back out. It gives me the added certainty that i am keeping my carb clean. Also, a mechanic told me it was best to leave the drain screws open for storage. Any feedback on that? Rick A17

--- On Tue, 7/28/09, Jeff Khoury wrote: From: Jeff Khoury Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR - Care and feeding of carbureted bikes To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 2009, 12:42 PM Good Morning All, I know this info is probably old news to most people on this list, but I'm writing a series of motorcycle maintenance and repair articles on my blog. These started out as posts to this and other lists and the thought occurred to me that I should collect my old posts, clean them up and post them so I didn't have to keep-rewriting them all the time. I though I'd post this one here for peer review (Please be gentle). The articles to follow will be about carburetor theory, cleaning, rebuilding and jetting then probably moving on to other topics. Feedback is always welcome. Care and feeding of your carbureted motorcycle: Among the most common problems that people have with their motorcycles are plugged jets and passageways in the carburetor(s) . This clogging is caused by varnish that accumulates over time due to the evaporation of the gasoline in the bowls and passageways of the carb. The varnish consists of gasoline additives, and here in California we have more additives in our gas than just about anywhere in the country. To prevent this, there are some very simple steps you can take to save yourself time and/or money with carburetor problems. I will give several methods in order of preference to keep the varnish from forming: Method #1: Ride your motorcycle This one is the easiest and most fun. Riding your motorcycle often (every few days at least) will keep fresh gasoline in the carburetor bowls and will prevent the gas in the tank from going sour over time. Riding your motorcycle also has the added side benefit of reducing stress and generally having a good time. Method #2: Drain your carb(s) if you plan to store your motorcycle for more than a week. Draining your carbs is easy and the best way to keep varnish from forming. On most bikes, all you need is a short length of rubber tubing, a screwdriver and a small bottle. On the bottom of most carbs, you will see a small nipple on the very bottom of the bowl, and there will be a valve screw in the bowl as well. Turn off the fuel petcock* (see below), then simply put one end of the tube on the nipple, the other in the bottle and loosen the screw a bit. A small amount of gas will drain into your bottle from each bowl. Tighten the screw when you're done, and be careful not to over-tighten. When you've drained them all, pour the gas back in to the tank, not on the ground or sewer, please. When it comes time to start your bike, turn on your fuel, wait a minute or two for the bowls to fill and crank away. Depending on the type of fuel delivery, it may take quite a bit of cranking to start, especially if you have a vacuum-powered fuel pump. Gravity-fed bikes and MOST bikes with electric fuel pumps usually start right up. Method #3: Run your carbs dry. This method is not as preferable as draining, but it will help significantly to extend the length of time between carburetor rebuilds. The process is simple, but cannot be performed on a bike with a vacuum-controlled petcock. Turn the petcock to [off] and start the bike. Hold the throttle open to about 1/4 throttle to ensure that the main jets are active. This draws fuel from a lower part of the bowl than the pilot (idle) jets and will remove more fuel from the bowls. There will still be some fuel left and varnish will form in the bottom of the bowls, but at least it won't be on the jets. Method #4: Use a fuel stabilizer This is the least-preferred method, but it's better than nothing. Use the recommended amount of "Sta-bil" or "Sea Foam" fuel additives that will retard varnish formation. Make sure you add it to the tank and ride a few miles to make sure that it makes it down into the bowls from the tank, and make sure your petcock is off. Long-term storage: If you plan to store your bike for more than a month, drain the tank in addition to the carburetors. Over time, the same evaporation happens in the tank and can varnish your tank and fill it with sediment. Even longer periods of storage can make the gas in the tank unusable sickly-sweet smelling sludge. The time you take draining it can save hours of work cleaning and rebuilding your fuel system. * There are two types of fuel petcocks: standard and vacuum-controlled. The standard ones are marked [on - off - res]. The vacuum-controlled ones are typically marked [on - pri - res]. If you have a vacuum-controlled petcock, the fuel is only turned on when vacuum is applied via a second hose from one of the intakes when in the [on] or [res] positions. [Pri] stands for "Prime" and is the equivalent of [res] on standard petcocks. -Jeff Khoury [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Ditto...

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote: > > Might be rotten in Bureau Co, but it stinks here in Lake / Cook Co just as much. > > Funny ILL law states no modified exhaust on motorcycles. .. but yet BLAAAAAAAAAAAA BLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA BLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA is all I hear.. > > Now I admit I have a Flowmaster muffler on the Camaro, and happens to be kinda raspy sounding, but not loud. Only thing the shop had that would fit the weird config of the car, without waiting for stock to come in. Very nice heavy constructed muffler btw. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > > I have nothing against good sounding mufflers that have a good rumble to them. > I bet your Camaro sounds sweet. It is the obnoxious straight pipes, and the continuous > rapping of them that I find totally out of line. > > Rick > A17 > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >