[dsn_klr650] octane rating.......cylinder out of round...

[nakedwaterskier]

Total cost: ~$70 Difficulty level: 3.5 out of 5? Skills/equipment required: welder, grinder, reciprocating saw, cutoff wheel, drill Well, basically for shits and giggles I decided to mount a Stanley DR-8 tractor muffler from Tractor Supply on the KLR. If I really had to give the reasons, they would be: 1) stock muffler melts wide rear tires (even with outward adjustment) 2) stock muffler weighs >20 lbs, tractor muffler weighs 4 lbs + midpipe 3) tweety sucks, even after 12" screwdriver mod 4) too cheap for a "real" muffler 5) curiosity This wasn't my brilliant idea, as a few other inmates have done the same, but there seems to be no writeup on the topic, so I'll provide as much detail as I can. Muffler Specs: Tractor Supply TSC# 0234340 FOR MODELS = *330 SERIES, 440 SERIES, OEM REPL.# = AT10646T,MFG. NO. = DR-8,WEIGHT LBS. = 4,INLET ID = 2 IN., JOHN DEERE TRACTORS My price was $36.20 + shipping from Bakersfield, CA Apparently price varies based on location Note- muffler comes solo: no clamps, mounting tabs, or midpipe. Muffler in hand, I needed to mock up the mounting hardware. I opted to use both bolt locations from the stock muffler. One would have sufficed, I'm sure, but I went for stability. I needed full rear tire clearance so I visually aligned the muffler with the edge of the inner fender. I was also concerned with having ample clearance for my side racks, so I took that into account. I wanted to mount the muffler non-horizontally, to make the bends in the needed midpipe as simple as possible. Again, did this visually. Once I figured out approximately where I wanted it, I mocked up some mounting tabs with cardstock and tape. Scrounged some 1.5" x 1/8" galvanized, angle steel from which to create the mounting brackets. I basically traced my cardstock brackets onto the steel and used various cutting devices to make the appropriate shapes which were drilled for bolts and hammered for curvature. Mounting tabs were welded in place with a stick welder. Significant differences in thickness of muffler material and mounting tab made this a precarious endeavor. Make sure you don't melt holes in the muffler. If so, fill them. Now that the muffler is properly mounted to the bike, a midpipe is needed to connect the head pipe to the muffler. Note that the muffler inlet is 2" ID while the head pipe is ~1.75" OD. I opted to take the bike to my local Midas Muffler where the manager had agreed to bend me an appropriate pipe for $20 cash. This only took him about 7 minutes once I had provided him a template via a bent welding rod. He "upped" both ends of the pipe to 2" OD at the exhaust end and 2" ID at the engine side. This proved a bit too big for the engine side, but those frustrations would be evident later... I mounted it all up and found leakage at both joints, so I just put the stocker back on and headed home. I hoped to use the stock clamp to connect midpipe to headpipe, but the pipe was too big and the clamp didn't have sufficient "crunch" to seal the joint. (I also hoped to weld the muffler to the midpipe, but I may do this some other time. I'm using a 2" U-bolt style muffler clamp for now.) The midpipe/headpipe joint continued to give me issues. I used the cutoff wheel and sliced the midpipe 8 times so it was compressible. Further experimenting with shim material and the stock clamp proved futile. Eventually I had to buy a U-bolt style muffler clamp (1 5/8") and use mucho torque to crunch the joint together before it quit leaking. A more appropriately sized midpipe inlet would have avoided all this and allowed the use of the stock clamp. The image below shows the microscopic clearance between the U-clamp and the airbox (background/center). from adv rider I over-trimmed the fender and side plate. Side was previously charred from heavy saddlebags on the stock pipe. I hope to get new plastics someday... Plenty of clearance for my side racks (not pictured). In all, the install took me the weekend. We drank a lot of beer and it was f'n hot, so productivity wasn't ideal. I also had to wait several hours for the midpipe to be made. I took some time to resurface and paint the headpipe and exhaust (high temp spraypaint- an addl. $5). I don't think I can readily break the headpipe midpipe joint to paint the midpipe, so I'm leaving it for now. My motivations were not performance-related, but I can provide a limited review. The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. Don't know about gas mileage yet. The exhaust sound is definitely louder, but not obnoxious. It is a throatier tone. I generally ride with sound-isolating earbuds, so it doesn't affect my volume levels. It seems quieter than a buddy's Supertrapp IDS2. Will do a more direct, unbiased sound comparison when I have the opportunity. Overall, it was fun, not too challenging, and worthwhile. Killed tweety for $70 and possibly increased performance? I'll likely put the stock exhaust back on for emissions testing. MUCHO thanks to Glenn for all his assistance (and for the Bud Lights). __________________ JD 1999 KLR650 A13 Tulsa, OK

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sun, Apr 05, 2009 at 03:48:10AM -0000, nakedwaterskier wrote:

> > The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at > just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual.

I'm _hoping_ none of the mods you made to attach your muffler changed your bike's gearing! Thor

[Rick McCauley]

I actually had a guy tell me once, that if he laid down on the gas tank, his bike ran 500 rpms less than it did when he sat up !! Rick A17

--- On Mon, 4/6/09, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: From: Thor Lancelot Simon Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 12:02 AM On Sun, Apr 05, 2009 at 03:48:10AM -0000, nakedwaterskier wrote: > > The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at > just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. I'm _hoping_ none of the mods you made to attach your muffler changed your bike's gearing! Thor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rick McCauley]

What about jetting, or any other affects. Rick A17

--- On Sat, 4/4/09, nakedwaterskier wrote: From: nakedwaterskier Subject: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, April 4, 2009, 10:48 PM Total cost: ~$70 Difficulty level: 3.5 out of 5? Skills/equipment required: welder, grinder, reciprocating saw, cutoff wheel, drill Well, basically for shits and giggles I decided to mount a Stanley DR-8 tractor muffler from Tractor Supply on the KLR. If I really had to give the reasons, they would be: 1) stock muffler melts wide rear tires (even with outward adjustment) 2) stock muffler weighs >20 lbs, tractor muffler weighs 4 lbs + midpipe 3) tweety sucks, even after 12" screwdriver mod 4) too cheap for a "real" muffler 5) curiosity This wasn't my brilliant idea, as a few other inmates have done the same, but there seems to be no writeup on the topic, so I'll provide as much detail as I can. Muffler Specs: Tractor Supply TSC# 0234340 FOR MODELS = *330 SERIES, 440 SERIES, OEM REPL.# = AT10646T,MFG. NO. = DR-8,WEIGHT LBS. = 4,INLET ID = 2 IN., JOHN DEERE TRACTORS My price was $36.20 + shipping from Bakersfield, CA Apparently price varies based on location Note- muffler comes solo: no clamps, mounting tabs, or midpipe. Muffler in hand, I needed to mock up the mounting hardware. I opted to use both bolt locations from the stock muffler. One would have sufficed, I'm sure, but I went for stability. I needed full rear tire clearance so I visually aligned the muffler with the edge of the inner fender. I was also concerned with having ample clearance for my side racks, so I took that into account. I wanted to mount the muffler non-horizontally, to make the bends in the needed midpipe as simple as possible. Again, did this visually. Once I figured out approximately where I wanted it, I mocked up some mounting tabs with cardstock and tape. Scrounged some 1.5" x 1/8" galvanized, angle steel from which to create the mounting brackets. I basically traced my cardstock brackets onto the steel and used various cutting devices to make the appropriate shapes which were drilled for bolts and hammered for curvature. Mounting tabs were welded in place with a stick welder. Significant differences in thickness of muffler material and mounting tab made this a precarious endeavor. Make sure you don't melt holes in the muffler. If so, fill them. Now that the muffler is properly mounted to the bike, a midpipe is needed to connect the head pipe to the muffler. Note that the muffler inlet is 2" ID while the head pipe is ~1.75" OD. I opted to take the bike to my local Midas Muffler where the manager had agreed to bend me an appropriate pipe for $20 cash. This only took him about 7 minutes once I had provided him a template via a bent welding rod. He "upped" both ends of the pipe to 2" OD at the exhaust end and 2" ID at the engine side. This proved a bit too big for the engine side, but those frustrations would be evident later... I mounted it all up and found leakage at both joints, so I just put the stocker back on and headed home. I hoped to use the stock clamp to connect midpipe to headpipe, but the pipe was too big and the clamp didn't have sufficient "crunch" to seal the joint. (I also hoped to weld the muffler to the midpipe, but I may do this some other time. I'm using a 2" U-bolt style muffler clamp for now.) The midpipe/headpipe joint continued to give me issues. I used the cutoff wheel and sliced the midpipe 8 times so it was compressible. Further experimenting with shim material and the stock clamp proved futile. Eventually I had to buy a U-bolt style muffler clamp (1 5/8") and use mucho torque to crunch the joint together before it quit leaking. A more appropriately sized midpipe inlet would have avoided all this and allowed the use of the stock clamp. The image below shows the microscopic clearance between the U-clamp and the airbox (background/ center). from adv rider I over-trimmed the fender and side plate. Side was previously charred from heavy saddlebags on the stock pipe. I hope to get new plastics someday... Plenty of clearance for my side racks (not pictured). In all, the install took me the weekend. We drank a lot of beer and it was f'n hot, so productivity wasn't ideal. I also had to wait several hours for the midpipe to be made. I took some time to resurface and paint the headpipe and exhaust (high temp spraypaint- an addl. $5). I don't think I can readily break the headpipe midpipe joint to paint the midpipe, so I'm leaving it for now. My motivations were not performance- related, but I can provide a limited review. The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. Don't know about gas mileage yet. The exhaust sound is definitely louder, but not obnoxious. It is a throatier tone. I generally ride with sound-isolating earbuds, so it doesn't affect my volume levels. It seems quieter than a buddy's Supertrapp IDS2. Will do a more direct, unbiased sound comparison when I have the opportunity. Overall, it was fun, not too challenging, and worthwhile. Killed tweety for $70 and possibly increased performance? I'll likely put the stock exhaust back on for emissions testing. MUCHO thanks to Glenn for all his assistance (and for the Bud Lights). ____________ ______ JD 1999 KLR650 A13 Tulsa, OK [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[roncriswell@sbcglobal.net]

Yeah but his back hurt. Criswell

On Apr 6, 2009, at 11:28 AM, Rick McCauley wrote: > I actually had a guy tell me once, that if he laid down on the gas > tank, his bike ran 500 rpms less than it did when he sat up !! > > > Rick > A17 > > --- On Mon, 4/6/09, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > > From: Thor Lancelot Simon > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 12:02 AM > > On Sun, Apr 05, 2009 at 03:48:10AM -0000, nakedwaterskier wrote: > > > > The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at > > just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. > > I'm _hoping_ none of the mods you made to attach your muffler changed > your bike's gearing! > > Thor > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[nakedwaterskier]

I just copied and pasted from an ADV rider who did the mod. The one I saw and heard was underneath a guy I road dn to a Julian Tech Day with. It sounded 100 times better than any other KLR I had ever heard. I doubt it made much performance difference other than the weight savings. But, it was to kewl for skool! Jeffrey

[Jim Douglas]

Rick McCauley wrote:

> > What about jetting, or any other affects. > > Rick > A17 > > --- On Sat, 4/4/09, nakedwaterskier > wrote: > > From: nakedwaterskier > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Saturday, April 4, 2009, 10:48 PM > > Total cost: ~$70 > Difficulty level: 3.5 out of 5? > Skills/equipment required: welder, grinder, reciprocating saw, cutoff > wheel, drill > > Well, basically for shits and giggles I decided to mount a Stanley > DR-8 tractor muffler from Tractor Supply on the KLR. > If I really had to give the reasons, they would be: > 1) stock muffler melts wide rear tires (even with outward adjustment) > 2) stock muffler weighs >20 lbs, tractor muffler weighs 4 lbs + midpipe > 3) tweety sucks, even after 12" screwdriver mod > 4) too cheap for a "real" muffler > 5) curiosity > > This wasn't my brilliant idea, as a few other inmates have done the > same, but there seems to be no writeup on the topic, so I'll provide > as much detail as I can. > > Muffler Specs: > Tractor Supply TSC# 0234340 > FOR MODELS = *330 SERIES, 440 SERIES, OEM REPL.# = AT10646T,MFG. NO. = > DR-8,WEIGHT LBS. = 4,INLET ID = 2 IN., JOHN DEERE TRACTORS > > My price was $36.20 + shipping from Bakersfield, CA > Apparently price varies based on location > Note- muffler comes solo: no clamps, mounting tabs, or midpipe. > > Muffler in hand, I needed to mock up the mounting hardware. I opted to > use both bolt locations from the stock muffler. One would have > sufficed, I'm sure, but I went for stability. > > I needed full rear tire clearance so I visually aligned the muffler > with the edge of the inner fender. I was also concerned with having > ample clearance for my side racks, so I took that into account. I > wanted to mount the muffler non-horizontally, to make the bends in the > needed midpipe as simple as possible. Again, did this visually. Once I > figured out approximately where I wanted it, I mocked up some mounting > tabs with cardstock and tape. > > Scrounged some 1.5" x 1/8" galvanized, angle steel from which to > create the mounting brackets. I basically traced my cardstock brackets > onto the steel and used various cutting devices to make the > appropriate shapes which were drilled for bolts and hammered for > curvature. > > Mounting tabs were welded in place with a stick welder. Significant > differences in thickness of muffler material and mounting tab made > this a precarious endeavor. Make sure you don't melt holes in the > muffler. If so, fill them. > > Now that the muffler is properly mounted to the bike, a midpipe is > needed to connect the head pipe to the muffler. Note that the muffler > inlet is 2" ID while the head pipe is ~1.75" OD. I opted to take the > bike to my local Midas Muffler where the manager had agreed to bend me > an appropriate pipe for $20 cash. This only took him about 7 minutes > once I had provided him a template via a bent welding rod. He "upped" > both ends of the pipe to 2" OD at the exhaust end and 2" ID at the > engine side. This proved a bit too big for the engine side, but those > frustrations would be evident later... > > I mounted it all up and found leakage at both joints, so I just put > the stocker back on and headed home. > > I hoped to use the stock clamp to connect midpipe to headpipe, but the > pipe was too big and the clamp didn't have sufficient "crunch" to seal > the joint. (I also hoped to weld the muffler to the midpipe, but I may > do this some other time. I'm using a 2" U-bolt style muffler clamp for > now.) > > The midpipe/headpipe joint continued to give me issues. I used the > cutoff wheel and sliced the midpipe 8 times so it was compressible. > Further experimenting with shim material and the stock clamp proved > futile. Eventually I had to buy a U-bolt style muffler clamp (1 5/8") > and use mucho torque to crunch the joint together before it quit > leaking. A more appropriately sized midpipe inlet would have avoided > all this and allowed the use of the stock clamp. The image below shows > the microscopic clearance between the U-clamp and the airbox > (background/ center). > > from adv rider > > I over-trimmed the fender and side plate. Side was previously charred > from heavy saddlebags on the stock pipe. I hope to get new plastics > someday... Plenty of clearance for my side racks (not pictured). > > In all, the install took me the weekend. We drank a lot of beer and it > was f'n hot, so productivity wasn't ideal. I also had to wait several > hours for the midpipe to be made. I took some time to resurface and > paint the headpipe and exhaust (high temp spraypaint- an addl. $5). I > don't think I can readily break the headpipe midpipe joint to paint > the midpipe, so I'm leaving it for now. > > My motivations were not performance- related, but I can provide a > limited review. The bike seemed peppier this morning and was > indicating 80 mph at just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than > usual. Don't know about gas mileage yet. > > The exhaust sound is definitely louder, but not obnoxious. It is a > throatier tone. I generally ride with sound-isolating earbuds, so it > doesn't affect my volume levels. It seems quieter than a buddy's > Supertrapp IDS2. Will do a more direct, unbiased sound comparison when > I have the opportunity. > > Overall, it was fun, not too challenging, and worthwhile. Killed > tweety for $70 and possibly increased performance? I'll likely put the > stock exhaust back on for emissions testing. > > MUCHO thanks to Glenn for all his assistance (and for the Bud Lights). > ____________ ______ > JD 1999 KLR650 A13 Tulsa, OK > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >

Anyone can post a post, or a link to a photo? As would like to see this, or is it another KLR urban myth?

[Rick McCauley]

That sounds great. I don't care about increased performance. Increased performance usually comes at the cost of fuel mileage, or a yo yo type powerband, with focus on peak power rather than low and mid range. I just want a deeper tone without any jetting changes, or power loss. If this is not possible, I will gladly keep the stock muffler. Sounds like the JD mod is cheap enough a guy could try it just to see how it behaves. Rick A17

--- On Mon, 4/6/09, nakedwaterskier wrote: From: nakedwaterskier Subject: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 7:41 PM I just copied and pasted from an ADV rider who did the mod. The one I saw and heard was underneath a guy I road dn to a Julian Tech Day with. It sounded 100 times better than any other KLR I had ever heard. I doubt it made much performance difference other than the weight savings. But, it was to kewl for skool! Jeffrey [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[k650]

You don't believe him? What he told you CAN HAPPEN and if he wasn't making it up then I know what was wrong with his bike! Walt

----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick McCauley" To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! I actually had a guy tell me once, that if he laid down on the gas tank, his bike ran 500 rpms less than it did when he sat up !! Rick A17 --- On Mon, 4/6/09, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: From: Thor Lancelot Simon Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 12:02 AM On Sun, Apr 05, 2009 at 03:48:10AM -0000, nakedwaterskier wrote: > > The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at > just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. I'm _hoping_ none of the mods you made to attach your muffler changed your bike's gearing! Thor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links

[Rick McCauley]

Really ?? Please explain to me how laying on the tank changes your gearing!! If you are going 55 mph and your engine is turning 4,000 rpm's, it will run the same if you are sitting upright, laying down, or if you jump off the bike. The motor will always run 4,000 rpm's at 55 mph unless you change gears or gearing. Rick A17

--- On Thu, 4/9/09, k650 wrote: From: k650 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: ramachm12@..., dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009, 3:40 PM You don't believe him? What he told you CAN HAPPEN and if he wasn't making it up then I know what was wrong with his bike! Walt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick McCauley" To: Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! I actually had a guy tell me once, that if he laid down on the gas tank, his bike ran 500 rpms less than it did when he sat up !! Rick A17 --- On Mon, 4/6/09, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: From: Thor Lancelot Simon Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] John DEERE MUFFLER mod is DA BOMB! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 12:02 AM On Sun, Apr 05, 2009 at 03:48:10AM -0000, nakedwaterskier wrote: > > The bike seemed peppier this morning and was indicating 80 mph at > just over 5100 rpm. I think that's better than usual. I'm _hoping_ none of the mods you made to attach your muffler changed your bike's gearing! Thor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------ --------- --------- ------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews. com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/ klr650faq. html Member Map at: http://www.frappr com/dsnklr650Yah oo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]