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[Robert Waters]

Hello, I'm off work today and am planning on tightening the stearing bearings. I looked it over pretty good but could not determine for sure how much stuff needs to be taken off to accomplish the task. Also, I need to know the amount the bearing nut needs to be torqued. Please cc me so I will get a copy asap--I receive list mail in digest. Thanks, RobertWaters@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Andrus Chesley]

You can keep this job really simple. Just get a long punch and a hammer, stick the end on the nut and do it that way. Works every time and only takes a few minutes. As for torque. No problem. Just snug the bottom nut good. If you start feeling drag then your too tight. The front is just not that critical, but will clunk if just a little bit loose.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Andrus Chesley" wrote:

> > You can keep this job really simple. Just get a long punch and a > hammer, stick the end on the nut and do it that way. Works every time > and only takes a few minutes. As for torque. No problem. Just snug > the bottom nut good. If you start feeling drag then your too tight. > The front is just not that critical, but will clunk if just a little > bit loose. >

My Fellow Steering head bearings and Stem-tighteners, You many know this; just as a reminder: Don't forget to loosen the upper triple-tree bolts before tightening the stem nut. The process is much smoother if you loosen those top four bolts 'first'. revmaaatin.

[fasteddiecopeman]

Robert, Loosen the bolts on the LOWER triple clamp; loosen the large "stem" nut underneath the handlebars (might have to remove the 'bars...) a bit; then use a brass drift if you don't have the proper pin spanner and tighten the large round nut (w/ slots in it) that's just UNDER the top triple clamp a bit. Ensure the bars will still 'flop' to the side w/ a push (front wheel in the air). Tighten the "stem" nut to 29 ft. lbs, then the lower triple clamp bolts to 18 ft. lbs. Re-check the play is OK. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Waters" wrote: > > > Hello, > > I'm off work today and am planning on tightening the stearing bearings. > I looked it over pretty good but could not determine for sure how much > stuff needs to be taken off to accomplish the task. Also, I need to > know the amount the bearing nut needs to be torqued. > > Please cc me so I will get a copy asap--I receive list mail in digest. > > Thanks, > > RobertWaters@... > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[dooden]

Ya what he said... IF they are really really loose, bet they need grease also.. but if not that bad loosen one end of the fork clamp so it can move also.. Bottom will allow the weight of the bike to keep the bottom bearing snug at least, then just tighten back when done. But otherwise I watched the shop do that to mine couple days after I took receipt, bearings just setting in good basically. I do not know why I was thinking it needed some special socket or something.. and when he took a punch and a hammer to it I could'nt believe it, cept he took handlebars off and was nice enough to set them way forward compaired to delivery, much better with bars farward when ya play offroad alot and on the pegs. Dooden A15 Green Ape (Nothing Political in this post) --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Andrus Chesley" wrote:

> > You can keep this job really simple. Just get a long punch and a > hammer, stick the end on the nut and do it that way. Works every time > and only takes a few minutes. As for torque. No problem. Just snug > the bottom nut good. If you start feeling drag then your too tight. > The front is just not that critical, but will clunk if just a little > bit loose. >

[Robert Waters]

Thanks to all who have contributed on this thread. I finished the job and took it for a ride. WALLA! No more rattle in the front, much more stable, and handles SOOOO much better. Shoulda done this a long time ago. The video was helpful, but you can skip a major step. The speedometer does not have to be removed. The nut was pretty loose. I pulled the shaft out and inspected the bearings. They were greased well. So, took a chisel and hammer and tightened the nut until it felt right and put it back together. I'd like to know how anyone can use a torque wrench on that baby? You just has to use the SWAG method to get it right. Oh, I almost forgot. BE SURE to pump each break before doing the test drive. I almost ran into the garage, which would have been bad at the speed I was going. Did a double pump on the rear and then had to use the front break, which luckily I had pumped once already. Bearly got stopped. Robert Waters NW Arkansas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[boulder_adv_rider]

Robert - Good point on skipping the speedo. The bottom 25mm nut doesn't have a torque spec (I think this is what you're referring to). You get it snug like you did and then tighten the 18mm upper nut to 29 ft-lbs. You use a socket and torque wrench on the upper nut only and must have the handle bars out of the way to fit the socket. Finally, you test the steering for proper tightness by the gravity and push-pull tests. Your last safety reminder is critical--energize the brakes. I think it's a good habit when leaving the garage to test your brakes. Just don't do it while pointing towards the Ferrari! Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Waters wrote:

> > > Thanks to all who have contributed on this thread. > I finished the job and took it for a ride. WALLA! No more rattle

in the front, much more stable, and handles SOOOO much better. Shoulda done this a long time ago.

> > The video was helpful, but you can skip a major step. The

speedometer does not have to be removed.

> > The nut was pretty loose. I pulled the shaft out and inspected the

bearings. They were greased well. So, took a chisel and hammer and tightened the nut until it felt right and put it back together. I'd like to know how anyone can use a torque wrench on that baby? You just has to use the SWAG method to get it right.

> > Oh, I almost forgot. BE SURE to pump each break before doing the

test drive. I almost ran into the garage, which would have been bad at the speed I was going. Did a double pump on the rear and then had to use the front break, which luckily I had pumped once already. Bearly got stopped.

> > Robert Waters > NW Arkansas > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[albatrossklr]

and that is what this list is about, helping each other with our toys. keep well & keep riding albatross --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Waters wrote:

> > > Thanks to all who have contributed on this thread. > I finished the job and took it for a ride. WALLA! No more rattle

in the front, much more stable, and handles SOOOO much better. Shoulda done this a long time ago.

> > The video was helpful, but you can skip a major step. The

speedometer does not have to be removed.

> > The nut was pretty loose. I pulled the shaft out and inspected the

bearings. They were greased well. So, took a chisel and hammer and tightened the nut until it felt right and put it back together. I'd like to know how anyone can use a torque wrench on that baby? You just has to use the SWAG method to get it right.

> > Oh, I almost forgot. BE SURE to pump each break before doing the

test drive. I almost ran into the garage, which would have been bad at the speed I was going. Did a double pump on the rear and then had to use the front break, which luckily I had pumped once already. Bearly got stopped.

> > Robert Waters > NW Arkansas > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Jason Marshall]

Please cancel my subscription to this group. It was fun while it lasted, but I no longer have my bike and the emails are VERY numerous. Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]