plastic gas tank and caps

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market", cheap. It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is probably a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model -- less travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd think). Looks like it'd need an engine cover, at least, to really be rideable; it's "got a very small crack" that leaks "a little oil". It's in Cincinnatti. Not my bike -- just thought someone here might be looking... -- Thor Lancelot Simon tls@... "My guess is that the minimal training typically provided would only have given the party in question multiple new and elaborate ways to do something incomprehensibly stupid and dangerous." -Rich Goldstone

[Tim Gornall]

I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and C and R model? So while I'm at it, I've been lurking on the list for a few months now. I don't have a KLR yet, but hope to soon. I have a few other bikes now, but my new interest is the KLR. Any recommendations on models, years, etc, to look for, or stay away from. Thanks, Tim Thor wrote: There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market", cheap. It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is probably a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model -- less travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd think).

[boulder_adv_rider]

Bogdan - Nice post and thanks for the heads-up on the the 1-w valve. I too was under the impression air could escape but not fuel, but no, air will not flow out (just tested it). Basically, it means your tank won't vent expanding gases on hot, sunny days which is bad juju. I can see the thing swelling like a prenant yak. Well, providing you don't make the hose connections too tight, pressurized air could escape via the connections once the pressure gets high enough. Otherwise, I could see this disfiguring (permanently?) a plastic tank. Sounds a touch epic making your connection. I might reorder the gasket from Acerbis and use the hose cap for high f-factor riding. On the highway, I really appreciate the look and function of the locking cap. Considering it's a dual-sport, you'd think Acerbis would make the locking cap less prone to leakage when the bike is down. I'm not talking a few eye dropper's worth here...

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote: > > I ll do my best, b_a_r. I don t have pictures and my technical writing and > vocabulary is sometimes wanting. I had many of the same experiences you did; > my tank bag is still redolent with gas fumes. The concept I came up with is > simple but ending up with a finished product was more work than I > anticipated. All is built around the standard gas cap and attached tubing > that come with the IMS tank. > > First I drilled out the stem/nipple in the center of the cap that the vent > tubing fits around and ended up with a 3/16 ID hole through the center of > said gas cap. I procured a piece of metal tubing 3/16 OD about 3 1/2 in > length. Basically I had the piece bent so that it was an upside down U > shaped that fit into the drilled hole in the center and then fit around so > it touched the outer side of the cap and then turned so the last inch went > horizontally, parallel with the top of the tank. At that end I had a > stepped metal insert about 1 long soldered to the piece of now bent metal > tubing. The insert went from 1/4 where it met the metal tubing to 3/16 > where it fit into a 3 piece of the rubber like vent tubing that came with > the tank. I adhered the bent metal piece to the hole in the cap using Marine > Tex, a structural epoxy. and built up this epoxy around it. At the other end > I put a small spring clamp over end of the 3 rubber tube over where it > covered the insert. I also fashioned a small bracket that fit over the metal > tubing where it bent next to the side of the cap and screwed and glued it to > the said cap. The piece of 3 rubber tubing was joined to the long piece of > tubing that it was cut from with a straight 3/16 plastic insert. This was > spring clamped at both sides. This is where I break the vent line to unscrew > the cap when I gas up. The long piece of tubing ended up below, close to the > shock as before. > > A word on one way valves: I used to have one in the tank vent line and still > do in my carb vent line. I took the tank one out when a lister posted that > during a hot sunny day his tank literally took on a drastically different > shape. Before that post I thought that the valve would allow air, but not > gas, to go in both directions since I could smell fumes. > > Bogdan, who hopes this wasn t too confusing > > > On 8/21/08 11:12 AM, "boulder_adv_rider" > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Bogdan - Can you tells us more on the metal tube vent you installed? > > I've since gone to the Acerbis locking cap but even that leaks when you > > say horizontal for more than a second. > > > > My original cap that came with the IMS tank is now missing some rubber > > on the mushroom seal that helps prevents backflow. But instead of > > replacing the seal from Acerbis ($4...but min order of $10), I bought > > the Acerbis locking cap (also bought a one-way, in-line valve in case I > > didn't like the locking cap). > > > > Normal riding condition, the new locking cap is great...no hose. > > However, in combat I'm not happy with gas leaking from the locking cap > > after tipping over. So when fall-factor increases I might revert to > > the old cap and would install this one-way valve (purchased from > > Fred). However, I've never been comfortable with the fit of the hose > > into the cap especially when it's under my tank bag. So I'm looking > > for ways to improve cap connection incorporating this one-way valve. > > Ultimately, tipping over and leaking gas is dangerous plus bad for the > > environment. Plus it's soaking my tank bag and the associated fumes > > are unacceptable. > > > > > >> > I agree since that s what I did. Tank bag users be informed, however, > > that > >> > the tank vents from the top of the cap, dirt bike fashion. I > > inserted a > >> > metal tube that turns and vents horizontally before joining the rubber > >> > line-not brain surgery. > >> > > >> > Bogdan > >> > > >> > > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[boulder_adv_rider]

So far I prefer the pre-08s. I'd look for anything 2003 and up with some miles and basic, requisite mods insitu. It gets you in the game (most importantly) and might save you some cash for even more farkle if you're on a budget. The newer model seems more city slicker inspired vs. the no-frills work-horse we've come to love to...ah...abuse. But if it's mostly a commuter, the 08+ might be a more stylish choice. But if you're like many of us--rough on the beast--the drop costs (breaking things) and maintenance are cheaper with an oldy but goodie (abs plastic for one). And compared to a heavier (twin) fuel guzzling KTM 990 Adventurer and the glamour premiums for dropping it and accessorizing, the KLR is like an awesome, lasts-a-lifetime disposable razor with more options for farkle/attachments than a Bobcat skidsteer.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tim Gornall wrote: > > I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and C and R model? > > So while I'm at it, I've been lurking on the list for a few months now. I don't have a KLR yet, but hope to soon. I have a few other bikes now, but my new interest is the KLR. Any recommendations on models, years, etc, to look for, or stay away from. > > Thanks, Tim > > Thor wrote: > There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market", cheap. > It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is probably > a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model - - less > travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd think). >

[Michael Martin]

Hi Tim, The C model designation is explained in the KLR65) FAQ: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html There's a lot more info I'm sure would interest you. Enjoy! Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ----- Original Message ---- From: Tim Gornall I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and C and R model? . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 04:56:45PM -0700, Tim Gornall wrote:

> > I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and > C and R model?

My message was about a KL_X_ 650, not a KLR650. This was a more aggressive performance dual-sport Kawasaki made in two models in the early 90s. The "R" was marketed as a 650CC off-road 4-stroke (no joke) with massive suspension travel at both ends, knobbies, not shipped with any of that silly street-legal farkle. The "C" was street-legal from the dealership and had similar suspension but with less travel and adjustability. With a (not entirely cheao) adapter these bikes' upside-down front forks (similar to the forks from the header KDX models) can be fitted to a KLR650. Several people on this list have done it, some with the "R" forks, some with the "C" forks. Of course people have fitted DR350 forks and all kinds of other crazy stuff, too. But the KLX is a popular donor. So, there's a "C" model KLX for sale cheap, I was saying. Not a "C" model KLR, which was another thing still.