nklr-drivel

DSN_KLR650
traderpro2003
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:39 pm

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by traderpro2003 » Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:55 am

If I might indulge the group...I busted my balls on a bmx bike when I was kid and the master link broke. I put load on the chain, clip split in two and launched the backer. Yeah, I Yahooooooooed! Never again can I look at a master clip the same way...long live Rosie the Riveter! Now, that's great if wiring is working for you, but so did coins in old fuse boxes (you know...til you could get to the store or [worse] replace the wire that was grossly over-loaded...especially around Christmas time). Sure, these "tips" do work and in fact might even get you out of bind temporarily, but I'll stick to the manufacturers' recommendations here which are sans drilling and wire. Just my humble and tender opinion... Good night, all - Brian
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "grufrude" wrote: > > FWIW, I'm just an old fart who rides old school bikes ('06KLR; '84 > > BMW RS, '69CB750, '75 CB400F) and who used to roadrace the 750 and a > > CB500 back in the mid-'70s in WEERA's endurance races up here in the > > inter-mountain west. We used clips on our chains and safety- wired > > them the way Chris explains. We used clips because we needed to > > swap > > The deal is that you were in a race environment, and the clip was removed, inspected, and > re-installed on a regular basis. I was in a regular road-riding environment where, 15,000 > miles after being put on the bike, the clip went AWOL. In the mid 70's on those race bikes > you probably replaced your chain after a couple thousand miles because in those pre-o- > ring days they were shot after that time. Nowdays... (shrug). Different environment, dude. > Different environment. > > Given that I have the tool to deal with a rivet-type masterlink, and given that it actually > requires less time, trouble, and fuss to install a rivet-type masterlink than to install a clip- > type masterlink using this tool (the tool handles pretty much everything, you just assemble > it and crank until it hits bottom to press on the plate, then back off, assemble a different > way and crank twice on each pin until it hits bottom to mushroom the rivets), and given > the permanence of the installation (as in, 15,000 miles on a chain that has never been > removed from the bike, only gearing changes being between 14 and 15 tooth front > sprockets), it only makes sense to just do it right the first time and be done with all the > inspecting and making sure the clip is still there and making sure the *safety wire* is still > there (yes over time it can corrode or flex or otherwise go AWOL), etc... just do it right, > and don't worry, hmm? > > I just wish I'd followed my advice 15,000 miles ago, or I wouldn't have been doing the job > in a hotel parking lot using a side case under the skid plate and a borrowed pair of > channel-lok's.... >

Ed Dobson
Posts: 102
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:50 am

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by Ed Dobson » Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:03 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "traderpro2003" wrote:
> > If I might indulge the group...I busted my balls on a bmx bike when I > was kid and the master link broke. I put load on the chain, clip > split in two and launched the backer. Yeah, I Yahooooooooed! Never > again can I look at a master clip the same way...long live Rosie the > Riveter! Now, that's great if wiring is working for you, but so did > coins in old fuse boxes (you know...til you could get to the store or > [worse] replace the wire that was grossly over-loaded...especially > around Christmas time). Sure, these "tips" do work and in fact might > even get you out of bind temporarily, but I'll stick to the > manufacturers' recommendations here which are sans drilling and > wire. Just my humble and tender opinion... > > Good night, all - Brian > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "grufrude" wrote: > > > FWIW, I'm just an old fart who rides old school bikes > ('06KLR; '84 > > > BMW RS, '69CB750, '75 CB400F) and who used to roadrace the 750 > and a > > > CB500 back in the mid-'70s in WEERA's endurance races up here in > the > > > inter-mountain west. We used clips on our chains and safety- > wired > > > them the way Chris explains. We used clips because we needed to > > > swap > > > > The deal is that you were in a race environment, and the clip was > removed, inspected, and > > re-installed on a regular basis. I was in a regular road-riding > environment where, 15,000 > > miles after being put on the bike, the clip went AWOL. In the mid > 70's on those race bikes > > you probably replaced your chain after a couple thousand miles > because in those pre-o- > > ring days they were shot after that time. Nowdays... (shrug). > Different environment, dude. > > Different environment. > > > > Given that I have the tool to deal with a rivet-type masterlink, > and given that it actually > > requires less time, trouble, and fuss to install a rivet-type > masterlink than to install a clip- > > type masterlink using this tool (the tool handles pretty much > everything, you just assemble > > it and crank until it hits bottom to press on the plate, then back > off, assemble a different > > way and crank twice on each pin until it hits bottom to mushroom > the rivets), and given > > the permanence of the installation (as in, 15,000 miles on a chain > that has never been > > removed from the bike, only gearing changes being between 14 and 15 > tooth front > > sprockets), it only makes sense to just do it right the first time > and be done with all the > > inspecting and making sure the clip is still there and making sure > the *safety wire* is still > > there (yes over time it can corrode or flex or otherwise go AWOL), > etc... just do it right, > > and don't worry, hmm? > > > > I just wish I'd followed my advice 15,000 miles ago, or I wouldn't > have been doing the job > > in a hotel parking lot using a side case under the skid plate and a > borrowed pair of > > channel-lok's.... > > >
See this link: http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/ Specifically: Types of connecting links (spring clip links should not be used above 250/400cc disp. .....) and Replacing a chain with spring clip connecting link (spring clip should not be used more than once .....) Food for thought. ED

Gary LaRue
Posts: 49
Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2007 5:33 pm

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by Gary LaRue » Fri Dec 07, 2007 5:33 pm

Hi All; I, too, have ridden many thousands of miles over a bunch of years - much of it two up with camping gear - and never lost a clip-type master link. As ocpianoman said, though, it was all on the street with only an occasional dirt road. I guess that could make a difference, but I am not sold on that. The correct way to install a clip is with the round end facing in the direction of rotation. Therefor, if an object were to strike it, it would push the clip more in the "on" direction, not push it off. While I have never been involved with any significant amount of off-road riding, if I had a clip came off I would blame myself for not putting it on right to begin with. Lash '77 GL 1000 '08 KLR 650 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

traderpro2003
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:39 pm

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by traderpro2003 » Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:17 pm

I'll pass this on to my crotch...long-live the rivet! Seriously, it's nice to know things have changed from those BMX days and people are using these clips without incident. Brian
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Gary LaRue wrote: > > Hi All; > > I, too, have ridden many thousands of miles over a bunch of years - much of it two up with camping gear - and never lost a clip- type master link. As ocpianoman said, though, it was all on the street with only an occasional dirt road. I guess that could make a difference, but I am not sold on that. > > The correct way to install a clip is with the round end facing in the direction of rotation. Therefor, if an object were to strike it, it would push the clip more in the "on" direction, not push it off. While I have never been involved with any significant amount of off- road riding, if I had a clip came off I would blame myself for not putting it on right to begin with. > > Lash > > '77 GL 1000 > '08 KLR 650 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

traderpro2003
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:39 pm

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by traderpro2003 » Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:47 pm

Ed, great link/info. sidebar: I got nearly 14k miles from my OEM chain. I wasn't nice to it either despite regular maintenance. Ultimately, after our 2-up return from Prudhoe (to my horror) I noticed back in Fairbanks I was running on several pins without rollers! Yep. The chain looked like a shot-up B-52 limping home and disintegrating. I wondered why during the trip I had to adjust for slack so soon, but attributed it to mud/rain. I glanced over it but never visually inspected it 100% all-the-way around. Bottom-line is you have to inspect your chain on the centerstand and look for missing rollers. I'm sure if I "weighed" the chain it would have failed the stretch test, but I wasn't able to do this. Well, like that potentially rogue clip, a disintegrating chain could have been just as bad. Still, I attribute survival to the overall integrity of the seamless design. Brian
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Dobson" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "traderpro2003" > wrote: > > > > If I might indulge the group...I busted my balls on a bmx bike when I > > was kid and the master link broke. I put load on the chain, clip > > split in two and launched the backer. Yeah, I Yahooooooooed! Never > > again can I look at a master clip the same way...long live Rosie the > > Riveter! Now, that's great if wiring is working for you, but so did > > coins in old fuse boxes (you know...til you could get to the store or > > [worse] replace the wire that was grossly over- loaded...especially > > around Christmas time). Sure, these "tips" do work and in fact might > > even get you out of bind temporarily, but I'll stick to the > > manufacturers' recommendations here which are sans drilling and > > wire. Just my humble and tender opinion... > > > > Good night, all - Brian > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "grufrude" wrote: > > > > FWIW, I'm just an old fart who rides old school bikes > > ('06KLR; '84 > > > > BMW RS, '69CB750, '75 CB400F) and who used to roadrace the 750 > > and a > > > > CB500 back in the mid-'70s in WEERA's endurance races up here in > > the > > > > inter-mountain west. We used clips on our chains and safety- > > wired > > > > them the way Chris explains. We used clips because we needed to > > > > swap > > > > > > The deal is that you were in a race environment, and the clip was > > removed, inspected, and > > > re-installed on a regular basis. I was in a regular road-riding > > environment where, 15,000 > > > miles after being put on the bike, the clip went AWOL. In the mid > > 70's on those race bikes > > > you probably replaced your chain after a couple thousand miles > > because in those pre-o- > > > ring days they were shot after that time. Nowdays... (shrug). > > Different environment, dude. > > > Different environment. > > > > > > Given that I have the tool to deal with a rivet-type masterlink, > > and given that it actually > > > requires less time, trouble, and fuss to install a rivet-type > > masterlink than to install a clip- > > > type masterlink using this tool (the tool handles pretty much > > everything, you just assemble > > > it and crank until it hits bottom to press on the plate, then back > > off, assemble a different > > > way and crank twice on each pin until it hits bottom to mushroom > > the rivets), and given > > > the permanence of the installation (as in, 15,000 miles on a chain > > that has never been > > > removed from the bike, only gearing changes being between 14 and 15 > > tooth front > > > sprockets), it only makes sense to just do it right the first time > > and be done with all the > > > inspecting and making sure the clip is still there and making sure > > the *safety wire* is still > > > there (yes over time it can corrode or flex or otherwise go AWOL), > > etc... just do it right, > > > and don't worry, hmm? > > > > > > I just wish I'd followed my advice 15,000 miles ago, or I wouldn't > > have been doing the job > > > in a hotel parking lot using a side case under the skid plate and a > > borrowed pair of > > > channel-lok's.... > > > > > > > See this link: > > http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/ > > Specifically: > > ?Types of connecting links > > (spring clip links should not be used above 250/400cc disp. .....) > > and > > ?Replacing a chain with spring clip connecting link > > (spring clip should not be used more than once .....) > > Food for thought. > > ED >

Peter Meilstrup
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 5:23 pm

stupid clip-type masterlinks

Post by Peter Meilstrup » Sat Dec 08, 2007 2:27 pm

On Dec 7, 2007 3:33 PM, Gary LaRue wrote:
> The correct way to install a clip is with the round end facing in the direction of rotation. Therefor, if an object were to strike it, it would push the clip more in the "on" direction, not push it off. While I have never been involved with any significant amount of off-road riding, if I had a clip came off I would blame myself for not putting it on right to begin with.
Since the chain goes slower than the bike, this doesn't make much sense. The bottom run of the chain, the section most likely to hit stuff, is traveling forwards relative to the rocks, which movement is against the chain direction of rotation. -pm

Jacobus De Bruyn
Posts: 209
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 9:55 am

nklr-drivel

Post by Jacobus De Bruyn » Tue Dec 11, 2007 6:08 pm

The earth being flat or round - BOTH! Depends on your point of view literally. You guys that were airplane-pilots must know about celestial navigation, and I understand that you used an artificial horizon incorporated in the sextant. On the sea, we used the real horizon, and we had to make a correction depending on the height of the observer s eye. As we are dealing here with 1/100-s of a degree, it is not noticed by the human eye, but in reality, the higher you go, the lower is the horizon, meaning the angle between the vertical and the horizon becomes greater than 90 . But for KLR-content we can safely assume the earth is as flat as a tortilla. Now was the world, or reality, created by a big bang or by a sort of Santa in the sky? None of the above?? Perhaps the material universe we blabber about so much only exists to our limited material viewpoint? The earth that seemed so flat is not, should we change our point of view about the seeming reality of this material universe? Good things to ponder during the winter months. My wife brought home a small calender for 2008, a gift from a clothing shop, and it shows a picture of a lake in the Rockies, snowcapped mountains, peace and purity. Underneath is the text: "Todos vivimos bajo el mismo cielo, pero no todos tenemos el mismo horizonte." We all live under the same sky/heavens, but we don t all have the same horizon. On the KLR I have a better horizon than those sitting in the small shitty cars, a better view. The difference is only a couple of feet. flying is much better! I beg your pardon for the drivel, Jake. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

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