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[oldrider25]

A question for the collective.... This morning, my bike stopped running like it ran out of fuel. I was clutching in for a stop when the motor died. I opened the fuel cap to make sure there was fuel and to see if there was a vacuum when I popped the cap (yes fuel; no vacuum). The bike restarted after about 10mins but would not idle. It died less than 30 seconds later and would not restart for another 10 mins. I finally gave up and had to throw the bike in the back of my truck. 1. I can smell raw fuel through the exhaust 2. Bike will restart but will not run more than 30secs 3. When bike dies, it sounds like it's running out of fuel - it idles down to zero. Sunday, I replaced the spark plug. Could it be I hooked up the vacuum lines wrong to the fuel tank? I rode the bike all yesterday w/o any problems. Any ideas? TIA, John the-wongs2453@...

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 14 Nov 2007 01:17:37 -0000 "oldrider25" writes:

> A question for the collective.... > > This morning, my bike stopped running like it ran out of fuel. I > was > clutching in for a stop when the motor died. I opened the fuel cap > to > make sure there was fuel and to see if there was a vacuum when I > popped the cap (yes fuel; no vacuum). The bike restarted after > about > 10mins but would not idle. It died less than 30 seconds later and > would not restart for another 10 mins. I finally gave up and had > to > throw the bike in the back of my truck. > > 1. I can smell raw fuel through the exhaust > 2. Bike will restart but will not run more than 30secs > 3. When bike dies, it sounds like it's running out of fuel - it > idles > down to zero. > > Sunday, I replaced the spark plug. Could it be I hooked up the > vacuum > lines wrong to the fuel tank? I rode the bike all yesterday w/o > any > problems. > > Any ideas? > > TIA, > John > the-wongs2453@...

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> John, I'm gonna make a wild guess that the float is sticking just a bit or the needle seat is not sealing. Or, well one more guess at the end of the post. This could I suppose cause too much fuel to enter the system. If it's just a bit I think the bike might run with the throttle open as more air would lean out the fuel rich mixture. When you went to idle the rich fuel mixture couldn't be leaned out cause you closed the throttle cutting the available air. This caused the engine to flood and stall. It then wouldn't restart because it was flooded. You could smell the extra fuel. Once the bike sat for a bit the extra fuel evaporated and you got to where the fuel/air mix would burn and the engine started. Then it flooded again and you started the entire process over again. I think the fix for this might entail removing the float bowl and cleaning the needle seat and checking float action. Now the other item I suppose it could be is you left the choke on. You need it to start on a cold morning but once the engine is warm (maybe 2 minutes max) you don't need a rich mixture anymore. The engine can run at speed with the choke on but won't idle. And it'll also be hard to start. The first thing I'd check is the choke lever. : ) Hope this helps. Let us know how this works out. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[matteeanne@yahoo.com]

If your not sure if you have fuel in the tank, your not riding enough. (I can tell you from any time of day or night how much fuel I have, I just got off the bike) You have abviously let the bike sit and got bad gas. Shame on you. Sean Brown Looking for the perfect gift for the wife/Mom/or "the person who has everything?" www.brownsbirdestates.com To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 5:17:37 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Stalled and Can't Start Up! A question for the collective.. .. This morning, my bike stopped running like it ran out of fuel. I was clutching in for a stop when the motor died. I opened the fuel cap to make sure there was fuel and to see if there was a vacuum when I popped the cap (yes fuel; no vacuum). The bike restarted after about 10mins but would not idle. It died less than 30 seconds later and would not restart for another 10 mins. I finally gave up and had to throw the bike in the back of my truck. 1. I can smell raw fuel through the exhaust 2. Bike will restart but will not run more than 30secs 3. When bike dies, it sounds like it's running out of fuel - it idles down to zero. Sunday, I replaced the spark plug. Could it be I hooked up the vacuum lines wrong to the fuel tank? I rode the bike all yesterday w/o any problems. Any ideas? TIA, John the-wongs2453@ sbcglobal. net ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Greg May]

Jeff Saline wrote: On Wed, 14 Nov 2007 01:17:37 -0000 "oldrider25" writes:

> A question for the collective.... > > This morning, my bike stopped running like it ran out of fuel. I > was > clutching in for a stop when the motor died. I opened the fuel cap > to > make sure there was fuel and to see if there was a vacuum when I > popped the cap (yes fuel; no vacuum). The bike restarted after > about > 10mins but would not idle. It died less than 30 seconds later and > would not restart for another 10 mins. I finally gave up and had > to > throw the bike in the back of my truck. > > 1. I can smell raw fuel through the exhaust > 2. Bike will restart but will not run more than 30secs > 3. When bike dies, it sounds like it's running out of fuel - it > idles > down to zero. > > Sunday, I replaced the spark plug. Could it be I hooked up the > vacuum > lines wrong to the fuel tank? I rode the bike all yesterday w/o > any > problems. > > Any ideas? > > TIA, > John > the-wongs2453@...

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> John, I'm gonna make a wild guess that the float is sticking just a bit or the needle seat is not sealing. Or, well one more guess at the end of the post. This could I suppose cause too much fuel to enter the system. If it's just a bit I think the bike might run with the throttle open as more air would lean out the fuel rich mixture. When you went to idle the rich fuel mixture couldn't be leaned out cause you closed the throttle cutting the available air. This caused the engine to flood and stall. It then wouldn't restart because it was flooded. You could smell the extra fuel. Once the bike sat for a bit the extra fuel evaporated and you got to where the fuel/air mix would burn and the engine started. Then it flooded again and you started the entire process over again. I think the fix for this might entail removing the float bowl and cleaning the needle seat and checking float action. Now the other item I suppose it could be is you left the choke on. You need it to start on a cold morning but once the engine is warm (maybe 2 minutes max) you don't need a rich mixture anymore. The engine can run at speed with the choke on but won't idle. And it'll also be hard to start. The first thing I'd check is the choke lever. : ) Hope this helps. Let us know how this works out. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT To add just a small thought to what Jeff said about the choke being left on, I recently had a problem with a sticking choke cable. When it first started I noticed that I would get the odd tank of gas that really disappeared a lot quicker then it should. The second thing I noticed was a slightly faster then normal idle right after I shut the choke off, still not up to operating temp, and slightly lower idle when warmed up. The problem turned out to be the choke cable outer cable being pushed out of the choke lever housing rather then the inner cable sliding through it which effectively meant that the lever was moving to the off position but the choke was still on, only enough to cause a messed up idle and poor mileage in my case but perhaps enough to cause stalling and failure to start until slightly cooled off in your case....just something else to check.....have a great evening ...Greg --------------------------------- Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[oldrider25]

Thanks, Jeff. I'll pull the float bowl this weekend. There goes my ride out to the desert... Yeah, I got the bike started tonight. It ran well as I warmed it up in neutral and ran it at about 3,000 rpms and blipped the throttle. Happy it passed that minor test, I rode around trying to simulate the conditions this morning: 3,000-4000 rpms steady in 2nd gear for 1/4 mile or so, then off the throttle. Sure enough, the rpms started to dip a little at idle and before I could blip the throttle again, the motor died. Distance from start: 0.5mi. I got it restarted by cranking the motor while holding the throttle halfway open (which would support the engine flooding theory) and rode the bike home, never letting the revs drop below 2000 rpms. When I pulled into my driveway, I let the engine idle down and it promptly died and would not restart. Prior to this morning, I had about 120mi on the tank of premium. I had ridden almost 200 miles on Sunday w/o problems. Normally, the problem is a result of the last thing done to the bike. The last thing I did was change the spark plug. I'm thinking some crud could have broken loose when I R&R'd the fuel tank. Like I said, I'll check the bowl this weekend. Other info: I use the bike as my daily commuter and average about 150miles/week commuting plus another 100-200 miles on weekends for fun. I normally get between 50-52mpg on or offroad, city or highway. This has been true since I bought the bike almost 26,000 miles ago. The last 2 tanks I got 46mpg and 48mpg, respectively. I thought this was indicative of a bad plug. But, the plug looked pretty good when I pulled it: normal color, sharp edges on electrode and conductor, and properly gapped. Oh well. Thanks, again, Jeff. I'll keep the list posted on what happens.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > John, > > I'm gonna make a wild guess that the float is sticking just a bit or the > needle seat is not sealing. Or, well one more guess at the end of the > post. This could I suppose cause too much fuel to enter the system. If > it's just a bit I think the bike might run with the throttle open as more > air would lean out the fuel rich mixture. When you went to idle the rich > fuel mixture couldn't be leaned out cause you closed the throttle cutting > the available air. This caused the engine to flood and stall. It then > wouldn't restart because it was flooded. You could smell the extra fuel. > Once the bike sat for a bit the extra fuel evaporated and you got to > where the fuel/air mix would burn and the engine started. Then it > flooded again and you started the entire process over again. > > I think the fix for this might entail removing the float bowl and > cleaning the needle seat and checking float action. > > Now the other item I suppose it could be is you left the choke on. You > need it to start on a cold morning but once the engine is warm (maybe 2 > minutes max) you don't need a rich mixture anymore. The engine can run > at speed with the choke on but won't idle. And it'll also be hard to > start. > > The first thing I'd check is the choke lever. : ) > > Hope this helps. Let us know how this works out. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

[oldrider25]

I checked for a sticking choke. The bike idles down from well over 3,000rpms to normal as I run the choke lever through its range. That is, until it decides it doesn't want to run anymore. Then it just dies. I'll go and check the cable again. I should be able to restart the bike now that it's sat for a bit and will run the adjuster a couple turns either way to see if that affects the idle. BTW, I know it's not me leaving the choke on. That's one of the 1st things I do before I ride away is push the lever to the full forward position. Thanks for your input, Greg. John

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Greg May wrote: > > To add just a small thought to what Jeff said about the choke being left on, I recently had a problem with a sticking choke cable. When it first started I noticed that I would get the odd tank of gas that really disappeared a lot quicker then it should. The second thing I noticed was a slightly faster then normal idle right after I shut the choke off, still not up to operating temp, and slightly lower idle when warmed up. The problem turned out to be the choke cable outer cable being pushed out of the choke lever housing rather then the inner cable sliding through it which effectively meant that the lever was moving to the off position but the choke was still on, only enough to cause a messed up idle and poor mileage in my case but perhaps enough to cause stalling and failure to start until slightly cooled off in your case....just something else to check.....have a great evening ...Greg

[yovern@juno.com]

Exact same thing happened to my KLR 250. Turned out to be a dirty carb. Remove carb, clean and check everything, put back together, then go for a ride. Hope this helps. Have fun & Ride safe, Anthony D16 '83 R100RS '03 GL1800A Re: KLR Stalled and Can't Start Up! Posted by: "oldrider25" the-wongs2453@... oldrider25 Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:15 pm (PST) I checked for a sticking choke. The bike idles down from well over 3,000rpms to normal as I run the choke lever through its range. That is, until it decides it doesn't want to run anymore. Then it just dies. I'll go and check the cable again. I should be able to restart the bike now that it's sat for a bit and will run the adjuster a couple turns either way to see if that affects the idle. BTW, I know it's not me leaving the choke on. That's one of the 1st things I do before I ride away is push the lever to the full forward position. Thanks for your input, Greg. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[telliott@aol.com]

We have a 93 that went a similar direction. Suddenly started running bad at low revs and then wouldn't start w/out the choke, then stopped starting at all. Turned out to be carbon buildup in the combustion chamber/head. We had to take it down and clean it out. That was several years ago and it is still running great. We had a mechanic do the diagnostics and repair. Maybe someone know how to get a look inside without pulling the head. Maybe a compression check, I think part of the problem was carbon causing the valves to stick open slightly. Terry ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[keithrstone]

I would pull the hose from the tank to the carb and see if it is flowing fuel (pour into a clean container so you can reuse it) for a good minute or so.

[Jeff Saline]

Bottom Posted. On Wed, 14 Nov 2007 06:05:42 -0000 "oldrider25" writes:

> Thanks, Jeff. > > I'll pull the float bowl this weekend. There goes my ride out to > the > desert... > > Yeah, I got the bike started tonight. It ran well as I warmed it > up > in neutral and ran it at about 3,000 rpms and blipped the throttle. > > Happy it passed that minor test, I rode around trying to simulate > the > conditions this morning: 3,000-4000 rpms steady in 2nd gear for 1/4 > mile or so, then off the throttle. Sure enough, the rpms started > to > dip a little at idle and before I could blip the throttle again, > the > motor died. Distance from start: 0.5mi. I got it restarted by > cranking the motor while holding the throttle halfway open (which > would support the engine flooding theory) and rode the bike home, > never letting the revs drop below 2000 rpms. > > When I pulled into my driveway, I let the engine idle down and it > promptly died and would not restart. > > Prior to this morning, I had about 120mi on the tank of premium. I > had ridden almost 200 miles on Sunday w/o problems. Normally, the > problem is a result of the last thing done to the bike. The last > thing I did was change the spark plug. I'm thinking some crud > could > have broken loose when I R&R'd the fuel tank. Like I said, I'll > check > the bowl this weekend. > > Other info: I use the bike as my daily commuter and average about > 150miles/week commuting plus another 100-200 miles on weekends for > fun. I normally get between 50-52mpg on or offroad, city or > highway. > This has been true since I bought the bike almost 26,000 miles ago. > > The last 2 tanks I got 46mpg and 48mpg, respectively. I thought > this > was indicative of a bad plug. But, the plug looked pretty good when > I > pulled it: normal color, sharp edges on electrode and conductor, > and > properly gapped. Oh well. > > Thanks, again, Jeff. I'll keep the list posted on what happens. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline > wrote: > > > John, > > > > I'm gonna make a wild guess that the float is sticking just a bit > or the > > needle seat is not sealing. Or, well one more guess at the end of > the > > post. This could I suppose cause too much fuel to enter the > system. If > > it's just a bit I think the bike might run with the throttle open > as > more > > air would lean out the fuel rich mixture. When you went to idle > the > rich > > fuel mixture couldn't be leaned out cause you closed the throttle > cutting > > the available air. This caused the engine to flood and stall. It > then > > wouldn't restart because it was flooded. You could smell the > extra > fuel. > > Once the bike sat for a bit the extra fuel evaporated and you got > to > > where the fuel/air mix would burn and the engine started. Then > it > > flooded again and you started the entire process over again. > > > > I think the fix for this might entail removing the float bowl and > > cleaning the needle seat and checking float action. > > > > Now the other item I suppose it could be is you left the choke on. > You > > need it to start on a cold morning but once the engine is warm > (maybe 2 > > minutes max) you don't need a rich mixture anymore. The engine > can run > > at speed with the choke on but won't idle. And it'll also be hard > to > > start. > > > > The first thing I'd check is the choke lever. : ) > > > > Hope this helps. Let us know how this works out. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

<><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><> John, Just one more thought on this. When did you last adjust the valves on this bike? No idle when hot is a classic symptom of tight exhaust valves. That doesn't explain the smell of fuel but a tight valve will get tighter when the engine gets hot. The engine will idle ok cold and run kind of ok hot at higher rpms. But won't idle when at operating temperature. Just one more rock on the pile. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT