fork/steering head rebuild

[Ronald Criswell]

After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is this about right? Criswell

[Bogdan Swider]

> After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain > moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is > this about right? > > Criswell > >

Yes if you're not pushing too hard - just lifting with one or two fingers. ( I know you usually use two fingers to measure something else. ) Bogdan, who also wants to know if you're designing a new Moab T-shirt and if some will be available in kid sizes

[Doug Herr]

On Wed, 10 May 2006, Ronald Criswell wrote:

> After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain > moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is > this about right?

Yup, unless you have lowering links. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Rick]

So I have a 05 with 3" lowering links and 06 with 2" lowering links. What's the process for lowered bikes.

[Jimmy]

What should it be with the lowering links? Jimmy A6F Doug Herr wrote:

On Wed, 10 May 2006, Ronald Criswell wrote: > After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain > moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is > this about right? Yup, unless you have lowering links. -- Doug Herr doug@... Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Doug Herr]

On Wed, 10 May 2006, Jimmy wrote:

> What should it be with the lowering links?

I think this deserves to go into the FAQ: This method works regardless of lowering, others do not: http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/chain.html "A new, too-tight chain can, in no time at all, turn into history. The best way to check chain tension, the one used by many race teams, is too ask two of your biggest friends to sit on the bike and compress the rear suspension to the point where the wheel spindle, swing-arm bearing bolt and the front chain-sprocket centerline are all in line. That is the point of maximum chain tension. Or you can compress the bike's rear end with a ratcheting tie down. Free up and down movement at the middle of the chain's bottom run should be about half an inch (13 mm) with the suspension compressed." -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Jimmy]

Thanks Doug. I never thought I would ever be in search of 2 large men. I will try the tie down method. Jimmy Doug Herr wrote:

On Wed, 10 May 2006, Jimmy wrote: > What should it be with the lowering links? I think this deserves to go into the FAQ: This method works regardless of lowering, others do not: http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/chain.html "A new, too-tight chain can, in no time at all, turn into history. The best way to check chain tension, the one used by many race teams, is too ask two of your biggest friends to sit on the bike and compress the rear suspension to the point where the wheel spindle, swing-arm bearing bolt and the front chain-sprocket centerline are all in line. That is the point of maximum chain tension. Or you can compress the bike's rear end with a ratcheting tie down. Free up and down movement at the middle of the chain's bottom run should be about half an inch (13 mm) with the suspension compressed." -- Doug Herr doug@... Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[fasteddiecopeman]

Rick, Just remember that the TIGHTEST spot is when the countershaft, swing-arm pivot and rear axle are all in line, so, to check YOUR KLRs - compress the rear till the 3 are lined up and adjust till there's a 'little' slack there. Then de-compress the rear and check how much slack you have, on your side stand, and THAT'S your tighten-to amount. Ed

[Bogdan Swider]

> What should it be with the lowering links? > Jimmy A6F

The same method Ron C. asked about below. No unless. My bike is lowered 1 1/2"; I've been using just that for about 60k miles. Three chains so far; current one has 22k miles. Bogdan

> >> After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain >> moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is >> this about right? > > Yup, unless you have lowering links.

[Doug Herr]

On Thu, 11 May 2006, Bogdan Swider wrote:

>> What should it be with the lowering links? >> Jimmy A6F > The same method Ron C. asked about below. No unless. My bike is lowered 1 > 1/2"; I've been using just that for about 60k miles. Three chains so far; > current one has 22k miles.

Yes, that will work, but technically speaking the chain is "too loose". Now, it is mostly ok to have a chain that is a little loose, so you don't have a problem with it. But if you want the chain to be adjusted exactly right then you use the alternate method.

> Bogdan >> >>> After installing a new tire, the bike on the sidestand the chain >>> moved up and just barely touches the rubber swingarm protector. Is >>> this about right? >> >> Yup, unless you have lowering links.

-- Doug Herr doug@...