blue ridge motorcycle camp ground closed

[Andy Cohen]

Ok, You guys have stumped me. I had the cams out far enough to pick the shims out and never did have to deal with the cam adjuster. Is this a problem? I am not being a smartass (this time) i really have no idea what you are talking about. I removed the cam caps and lifted the cam up far enough to remove the shim/s and when i was done i laid the cam back in its cradle and put the caps back on. Andy Cohen Finishlinewest Home of the 470 HP "Quake" Kawasaki KLR 650 Police Special www.finishlinewest.com "our vehicles don't compete with other vehicles, they compete with sex"

[Kurt Simpson]

You guys have stumped me. I had the cams out far enough to pick the shims out and never did have to deal with the cam adjuster. Is this a problem? I am not being a smartass (this time) i really have no idea what you are talking about. I removed the cam caps and lifted the cam up far enough to remove the shim/s and when i was done i laid the cam back in its cradle and put the caps back on. Andy Cohen _____ Andy, if you didn't remove the bolt, washer and spring from the cam adjuster than the adjuster will do its thing and take up any slack that may have been created by you moving the cams around...The fix would be to remove the entire unit (do not move the engine at this point)...then "reload" the ratchet mechanism... Kurt

[Andy Cohen]

AAhhhh, ok i get it. thanks. -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson [mailto:dsneditor@...] Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 8:40 AM To: acohen@...; News, Dual Sport Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] KLR Valve Adjustment You guys have stumped me. I had the cams out far enough to pick the shims out and never did have to deal with the cam adjuster. Is this a problem? I am not being a smartass (this time) i really have no idea what you are talking about. I removed the cam caps and lifted the cam up far enough to remove the shim/s and when i was done i laid the cam back in its cradle and put the caps back on. Andy Cohen _____ Andy, if you didn't remove the bolt, washer and spring from the cam adjuster than the adjuster will do its thing and take up any slack that may have been created by you moving the cams around...The fix would be to remove the entire unit (do not move the engine at this point)...then "reload" the ratchet mechanism... Kurt

[Bogdan Swider]

> Andy, if you didn't remove the bolt, washer and spring from the cam > adjuster > than the adjuster will do its thing and take up any slack that may have > been > created by you moving the cams around...The fix would be to remove the > entire unit (do not move the engine at this point)...then "reload" the > ratchet mechanism... > > Kurt > > > Exactly, There are clear reload instructions in one of the manuals. Bogdan >

[Susan Moorhead]

Andy, Thanks for all the effort, this will help those 1st timers, like myself, A LOT!!! BTW, do you have a projected finish date for the "Police Special"? Just wondering. Marshall in Afton, Ok 95 KLXC3

----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Cohen

[Andy Cohen]

For all intents and purposes the basic configuration is complete. I am still waiting on the new LED strobes and the siren from the East German police. Once i have those i can begin to wire the bike and then it will go to Electrex to see if the stock electrical can handle it. From what i have been told by Federal Signal the new LED strobes will pull about the same as an electric vest. Only time will tell and I am sure you can imagine there will have to be plenty of testing with both law enforcement agencies and Kawasaki before it is accepted as a standard. On a side note, I spoke with Kawasaki today and they are eagerly awaiting the finished product for their testing. If the planets align correctly and the wind blows just right, maybe by years end the bike will be in full production. Nobody wants that more than me right now as i have ivested a considerable amount of resources into this project. Keep in mind that the bike is only half of the project though. We still have to build the Sport Trac RDS to carry it. -----Original Message----- From: Susan Moorhead [mailto:hooligan@...] Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 5:06 PM To: acohen@... Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] KLR Valve Adjustment Andy, Thanks for all the effort, this will help those 1st timers, like myself, A LOT!!! BTW, do you have a projected finish date for the "Police Special"? Just wondering. Marshall in Afton, Ok 95 KLXC3

----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Cohen

[Eric Grundin]

Andy, Great post. This is going to be a great help to me as I do my first KLR valve adjust. I taught my self (with the help of the COG list) how to do them on my Concours and it still runs! I have a manual butt no supplement(its on back-order). I have Eldon's instructions. I should be all set to get it done butt I am confused by this Cam chain tensioner thing.I understand I need to remove the bolt, washer and spring to prevent the unit from tensioning the chain when I am moving the cams. Which is the correct bolt? Are the washer and spring underneath the bolt? When looking at the motor, on the left side, The tensioner is held on by 2 bolts and on it is a larger bolt. Which is the bolt I am to remove? I think it is the large bolt and under it will be the washer and spring. Correct? When I am finished how does one replace it? just tighten it up? Lots of questions from a beginner mechanic! All help is appreciated. Thanks. Eric Grundin Salem, Wi. 99 Concours "Airbike" 01 KLR 650 COG #3728 AMA #75867 Silly Yuppie Trailers are for Boats.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Kurt Simpson" To: ; "News, Dual Sport" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 11:40 AM Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] KLR Valve Adjustment > You guys have stumped me. I had the cams out far enough to pick the shims > out and never did have to deal with the cam adjuster. Is this a problem? I > am not being a smartass (this time) i really have no idea what you are > talking about. > > I removed the cam caps and lifted the cam up far enough to remove the shim/s > and when i was done i laid the cam back in its cradle and put the caps back > on. > > Andy Cohen > _____ > > Andy, if you didn't remove the bolt, washer and spring from the cam adjuster > than the adjuster will do its thing and take up any slack that may have been > created by you moving the cams around...The fix would be to remove the > entire unit (do not move the engine at this point)...then "reload" the > ratchet mechanism... > > Kurt > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[richardm@gowinnt.com]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Eric Grundin" wrote:

>Are the washer and spring underneath the bolt?

Yes.

>When looking at the motor, on the left side, The tensioner is held >on by 2 bolts and on it is a larger bolt. Which is the bolt I am to >remove? I think it is the large bolt and under it will be the washer >and spring. Correct?

Correct. The only time that you need to remove the two little bolts is if, for some reason, you need to reset the tensioner. As long as you pull the large cap bolt and spring before removing the cap cams, there should be no risk of the tensioner ratcheting too tight when you disturb the cams. Be careful removing the large cap bolt. It will fly and so will the spring underneath it. Hold down on it whilst backing it out.

>When I am finished how >does one replace it? just tighten it up?

Just put the spring back in and re-install the large cap bolt. RM PS. One more thing I'll add about the whole process: Many people have broken valve cover bolts. The 12mm head and the requisite larger wrench makes one sub-consciously think "crank it down". They are funky little bolts and they only need a little tension. If they're too loose, you might have some oil seepage. Just add a little tightness if necessary.

[mnashsri]

Does anyone know how important this is? I just bought a 99 KLR about 2 months ago and i have about 8000 miles on it. The bike makes a weird sweaking noise that sounds like the brakes but it does it when the motor is at about 3,000 to 3,500 rpms so i thought it might be the valves. I was just wondering if the valves are simple for a non mechanical person such as myself. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks Madison

[Voice Man]

I just finished a valve adjustment job on my 2003. It had just over 5000 miles on it, and it was it's second valve check. First one at the 500 mile break in service. My valves needed adjusting, so I was VERY glad I got it done, but I was fortunate to have a friend who has a 2001 KLR, and also was a motorcycle mechanic for a number of years. I am NOT mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and I would never have been able to do that valve job alone. Now that I've been through it, the whole idea is pretty simple, but I would get some help. Just my two cents worth. Lance A17 Missouri --- mnashsri wrote:

> Does anyone know how important this is? I just > bought a 99 KLR about 2 > months ago and i have about 8000 miles on it. The > bike makes a weird > sweaking noise that sounds like the brakes but it > does it when the > motor is at about 3,000 to 3,500 rpms so i thought > it might be the > valves. I was just wondering if the valves are > simple for a non > mechanical person such as myself. Any help or advice > would be appreciated. > > Thanks Madison > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > >

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