steering head bearing races

[Tumu Rock]

I noticed while lubin' my chain that the piece of plastic on the swingarm under the chain has some pretty deep grooves. Is this normal? I haven't actually checked the slack yet as I am searching for a 20lb weight to hang off the chain (all the dealers I know use triple-beam scales and sell by the ounce ;') Anybody know how much an average cinder block weighs? It doesn't look like tightening the chain would prevent it from rubbing on the swingarm anyway, but I could be wrong - rare, but possible. dat brooklyn bum p.s. thanks for the responses to my bolts query. If anyone actually does come up with a kit, put me down for one. _______________________________________________________ Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp

[TexasThumpin@aol.com]

In a message dated 1/2/02 10:01:13 AM Central Standard Time, DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com writes:

> Better than a slide hammer puller in many cases I think is an air > hammer fitted with a straight 18" bit cut off to a blunt end with a > sharp edge. It has worked great for me in the past on wheel bearings > that have only a slight relief to get at them. Again, the KLR lower > race had a negative relief. For that I recommend a welder. > > A lot of times you can heat the area with a small torch, like a plumbing > torch, heat up the gooseneck and then using a mallet, or your slide hammer, > the race should come right out. When I pulled mine, I used a propane torch, > mallet, and drift punch. Took less than 30 minutes to do the whole thing. > Now for the quick tip. Put your new bearing races in your freezer for a > couple days. Make sure you put them in some kind of dry covering, like a > zip-lok back with no air in it. Why, you ask. Because your races will > shrink a bit and go in much easier than if done at ambient temperature. > Works even better if you have a partner that can heat up the gooseneck > while you are inserting the races. > > Jim > Texas Thumpin

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