I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper...> Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > recommendation how old?
moron nklr a little help..
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gyb@sprynet.com
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2000 9:21 pm
ready to buy, but.....!!!
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Devon Jarvis
- Posts: 2322
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am
ready to buy, but.....!!!
Also, when they changed the balancer didn't the clutch basket change as
well? The kickstarter kit won't fit post-'96 KLR?
Devon
A15
gyb@... wrote:
> > > Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > > recommendation how old? > > I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and > how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A > new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on > the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper...> > I used to think that buying new bikes (or cars for that matter) was > better, since it came with that warm and fuzzy "warranty" cushion > to rely on. These days, with few exceptions, most bikes will do > tens of thousands of miles without any major problems, often > without any problems and with minimal maintenace. > > I bought my KLR used. It was (still is) cosmetically challenged. > Looked like it had the minimum maintenance, but no more than > that in it's first 9k. Changed the oil, filter, spark plug and > adjusted the valves, and it runs as well as any KLR that was > babied since new. I use it to ride off-road (something I had very > little experience with before I bought it), so the appearance > wasn't a concern. It was almost a given that I will be dropping it > often, so a cheaper bike hurts much less when you drop it...
> Almost 5k later, it still runs without a problem. > > KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > Good luck, > > Gustavo > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Arden Kysely
- Posts: 1578
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2001 8:18 am
ready to buy, but.....!!!
I believe there is an extra plate in the newer clutches, and no more
option for a kick starter even though the hole in the case is still
there. They also lightened the flywheel a big to help it rev quicker.
Arden Kysely
A11 "Mr. K"
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote: > Also, when they changed the balancer didn't the clutch basket change as > well? The kickstarter kit won't fit post-'96 KLR? > > Devon > A15 > > gyb@s... wrote: > > > > > Many of ya'll have 10k+ on your bikes and still going. Bottom line: > > > would ya'll get a new KLR or get a used one. If a used bike > > > recommendation how old? > > > > I guess it depends on what you intend to do with said bike, and > > how poor you really are (vs what you say in the message). A > > new KLR is not *that* expensive, compared to most bikes on > > the market. OTOH, a used KLR is even cheaper...> > > > I used to think that buying new bikes (or cars for that matter) was > > better, since it came with that warm and fuzzy "warranty" cushion > > to rely on. These days, with few exceptions, most bikes will do > > tens of thousands of miles without any major problems, often > > without any problems and with minimal maintenace. > > > > I bought my KLR used. It was (still is) cosmetically challenged. > > Looked like it had the minimum maintenance, but no more than > > that in it's first 9k. Changed the oil, filter, spark plug and > > adjusted the valves, and it runs as well as any KLR that was > > babied since new. I use it to ride off-road (something I had very > > little experience with before I bought it), so the appearance > > wasn't a concern. It was almost a given that I will be dropping it > > often, so a cheaper bike hurts much less when you drop it...
> > Almost 5k later, it still runs without a problem. > > > > KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > > > Good luck, > > > > Gustavo > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Be part of the Adventure! > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > > > Post message: DSN_klr650@y... > > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@y... > > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@y... > > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@y... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Brad Davis
- Posts: 496
- Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am
ready to buy, but.....!!!
Only two people report doing the engine balancer upgrade in the polls section. I was one of them. Brad> KLRs are almost identical save for a difference in the can chain > tensioner that happened in '96. So, if you worry about that (and > many here say you should), buy a '96 or newer. Others will tell > you their pre-'96 KLR has run fine since they got it. Check the > classifieds and Cycle Trader to figure out what the going prices > are, then decide how much is a new bike worth to you. > > Good luck, > > Gustavo
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Brad Davis
- Posts: 496
- Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am
ready to buy, but.....!!!
Todd,
The poll question refers to the balancer SPRING
upgrade..
Brad
--- zootpatutie wrote:
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger http://im.yahoo.com> Is that the solid balancer upgrade from Eagle > Machine, and any guidance on > pitfalls or directions? I'd appreciate info before > I attempt this one. > Thanks > Todd > A3 > A9
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Bogdan Swider
- Posts: 2759
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm
moron nklr a little help..
I believe the most effective rear suspension mod (especially for the money) is a Progressive rear spring mated to the stock shock. Did wonders for this KLRister. $ 90 with postage from Hinksta Fred. Bogdan> Yes, especially for the hefty man-sized rider. > I used to bottom out my stocker all the time, but now I only bottom out > the > Progressive shock once or twice a day in the tuff stuff. > CA Stu > > -----Original Message----- > I'm also real curious on how you guys with the after market shocks are > liking > them off road. Is it like a day/night difference to the stocker? > > Scott > A14 "thunderdog" > Sorrento, Fl > >
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