Good to hear from you. You can always find me lurking in the wings with
sage advise. Most of it valid!
Cheers;
Skip.............................
At 11:16 AM 4/4/00 +0800, Harry Pyle wrote:
>Thanks for your support Skip..we can always rely on you.
>I well remeber your concern when the Moss kit first came out.
>You made several phone calls to me in Australia about it. We both warned
>them as did Brian Darke from "Maintaining the Breed" ..he was an Oz Moss
>agent at that time..an Engineer..and also very concerned about the product..
>Surely it has been rectified by now..lets hope so.
>Regards
>Harry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Skip Kelsey
>To: Harry Pyle ; David Edgar
>; Bob and Carolyn Grunau
>Cc: T-ABC's Forever
>Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 1:05 AM
>Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Phil Marino and crank seal
>
>
>> Harry:
>>
>> I heartly concour with your assesment of the seal problem. When I received
>> the seal information while in Australia a few years ago, I contacted Al
>> Moss and the folks at Moss. I even sent them the information that the
>> "Nitrile" rubber seal would not stand up to the rpms of the crank flange.
>> They all ignored the warnings even with proof. So, why is it some people
>> wont listen. I understand that they could not find a seal of the proper
>> diameter, and so went with the only one available, be it wrong or not.
>>
>> Good on ya Harry:
>>
>>
>> Skip Kelsey...................................
>>
>> At 01:00 PM 4/2/00 +0800, Harry Pyle wrote:
>> >Hi everyone,
>> >There is absolutely nothing wrong with running the rear seal on the
>LARGER
>> >diameter flange...as long as you use the correct material seal.. ie the
>> >viton ones which are made for high surface speed/heat contact.
>> >The original designer of the rear seal was Bob Schapel ,TC owner
>> >'extraordinaire' from South Australia in approximately 1983. He always
>used
>> >a standard VOLVO crankshaft seal. I have had this set up in my TC since
>> >1988..did Around Australia that year in 28 days..my only car for every
>day
>> >use..then drove it around the world in 7 months in 1993 (with new Volvo
>> >seal)..still using it daily for work as it is my only licenced car..I
>still
>> >have a dry clutch and no oil drips from the 'split pin'.
>> >Its interesting that immediately after my visit to California with the
>TC,
>> >and showing and explaining the rear seal modification (with sketches) and
>> >also the Bob Schapel rear axle/wheel seal modification to anyone who was
>> >interested..Al Moss, Phil Marino,Chris Nowland etc included there
>appeared
>> >on the market exact replicas almost immediately with never any credit to
>the
>> >original designer Bob Schapel.. Phils rear wheel kit was very well done ,
>> >and so was the Moss crankshaft kit but they simply used the wrong
>> >material/seal.
>> >I have recently done a similar (1 off) conversion to a "hot' 1938 VA
>engine
>> >and am using a 5" diameter seal out of a truck crankshaft kit..its red
>viton
>> >material and made for the job. If the seal runs on a large diameter/hot
>> >surface the material must be suitable as in factory crankshaft seals on
>> >modern cars. The material is usually red or brown as opposed to the
>standard
>> >black seals.
>> >Regards
>> >Harry
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: David Edgar
>> >To: Bob and Carolyn Grunau
>> >Cc: T-ABC's Forever
>> >Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 3:22 PM
>> >Subject: [mg-tabc] Re: Phil Marino and crank seal
>> >
>> >
>> >> Phil and Mike use the exact same seal and both have the crank welded up
>> >> and ground where the slinger is (was). The difference is Mike had a
>jig
>> >> made up and if you ship him your bearing cap and the aluminum piece to
>him
>> >> he cuts them to accept the small block chevy seal. Nice set up. Mike
>and
>> >> Phil do not like the Moss set up as the the seal rubs on the larger
>> >> diameter flange at a higher surface speed. Phil puts the seal on
>exactly
>> >> where Mike does but bolts the cap to the block along with the aluminum
>> >> piece and machines it. Great if you are only doing one and you can get
>> >> the block to the machine shop (or into your own garage when you have
>your
>> >> own milling machine like Phil). Ship the cap and aluminum piece to
>Mike
>> >> and get it back in a week. Take the crank to your local crank repair
>to
>> >> have welded and ground. Have the shop dial indicate the rear flange
>when
>> >> done and dress it up if out of true. The welding may distort the
>flange
>> >> slightly but dressing it true by taking a couple thou off solves the
>> >> problem.
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, 29 Mar 2000, Bob and Carolyn Grunau wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > Hi Dave,
>> >> > How does the Goodman seal differ ? Is it a Moss type?
>> >> > I am going to rebuild my TC engine soon and was leaning toward the
>Chevy
>> >> > seal. But would like to know what else is out there.
>> >> > Thanks for any info.
>> >> > Regards from Canada, Bob Grunau
>> >> >
>> >> > ----------
>> >> > > From: David Edgar
>> >> > > To: Roger Furneaux
>> >> > > Cc: T-ABCs
>> >> > > Subject: [mg-tabc] Phil Marino
>> >> > > Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 8:52 PM
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Just saw Phil Marino at the TC Motoring Guild meeting last night.
>> >Still
>> >> > > moving a little slow but very active in the mind. He was showing
>off
>> >his
>> >> > > conversion to a small block chevy rear crank seal. Mike Goodman
>was
>> >> > there
>> >> > > also with his conversion idea and the two of them went on and on
>> >> > > about which was the best way to go. Both looked good by the way.
>> >Phil
>> >> > > still takes a cane with him but frequently forgets it when
>venturing
>> >away
>> >> > > from his chair.
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>>
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>> >>
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