Wilsons Sandbox

Does anyone know the details of the removal and replacement of the oil return bushings on a TC? Looks like a special puller might be required and a mandrel of some sort needed to reinstall the new parts undamaged. The housing is still mounted on the chassis. TIA for any advice and help. Jim Merz

According to TCs Forever, some shims might be needed to "pinch up" the outer rear wheel bearing race. These would be required if the hub flange is too short to hold the bearing race in place in its housing. Anyone know of a source for some of these shims? None are shown in the Abingdon Spares or Moss catalogs. TIA Jim Merz

In a message dated 3/28/00 10:04:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
STLQB@earthlink.net writes:

>

Jim
I just did mine and I went to the auto parts store and bought bulk shim stock
of varying thickness. I then used plastigauge to check clearance of the hub
to the bearing surface with a little pressure from a press. Might be an
easier way to do it, but I didnt want to pop the axles out of the hub, so the
plastigauge works well. I then used snips to cut the shim stock.

Joe Potter

STLQB wrote: Does anyone know the details of the removal and replacement of the oil return bushings on a TC? If you mean the "oil slinger" pressed into the rear axle housing, you can use a "pilot bearing puller" which is often used to pull the pilot bearings on engine flywheels, generator, starters, etc. I got one through J.C. Whitney (of all places) when I did my wheels several years ago. Think I paid around $15US for it. Terry V.P.

----- Original Message ----- From: STLQB@earthlink.net To: mg-tabc@egroups.com Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 8:59 PM Subject: [mg-tabc] TC Rear Axle Rebuild
Does anyone know the details of the removal and replacement of the oil return bushings on a TC? Looks like a special puller might be required and a mandrel of some sort needed to reinstall the new parts undamaged. The housing is still mounted on the chassis. TIA for any advice and help. Jim Merz eGroups.com Home: http://www.egroups.com/group/mg-tabc
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Re: [mg-tabc] TC Rear Axle Rebuild These shims were mentioned in a pre-war Factory Service sheet, but I have never found them necessary. Probably back then, hubs varied a bit, but nowadays they are all CNC-machined and super-accurate.

I did an axle the other day and measured the gaps 'twixt carrier & hub flanges with feeler gauges and they came out at 6-thou. Then I found an old bit of paper gasket and that was 10-thou!!! So perhaps if you insist on using paper in there, you also need steel shims so that the bearing still gets pinched up.

For some time now, those in the know in the U.K. have been copying the racers' method of using "instant gasket". Loctite sell it, but the Hammerite version is nicer 'cos it's orange! If you put a thin smear of oil or grease on one face, say the carrier, and the goo on the other, it will come apart nicely and you can re-use the gasket as it will only stick to the other face.

Happy MotorinG!

Roger

Jim Mertz wrote:

According to TCs Forever, some shims might be needed to "pinch up" the outer rear wheel bearing race. These would be required if the hub flange is too short to hold the bearing race in place in its housing. Anyone know of a source for some of these shims? None are shown in the Abingdon Spares or Moss catalogs.

If the differential is out, it's a simple matter, using an appropriately sized socket and a broom handle, to drive them out from the other side.

hope this helps

regards

John Swanland
TC 7557

Please note new e-mail address:
john.swanland@wesley.vic.edu.au

>>> "STLQB" 03/28/00 11:59am >>>

Does anyone know the details of the removal and replacement of the oil return bushings on a TC? Looks like a special puller might be required and a mandrel of some sort needed to reinstall the new parts undamaged. The housing is still mounted on the chassis.
TIA for any advice and help.
Jim Merz


------------------------------------------------------------------------

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If the diff. is out, it is even easier to push them INTO the casing. Best to
turn up a simple stepped mandrel, which you can also use to push (i.e.
hammer!) in the new ones. Make the smaller diameter a snug fit in the bush,
and it will prevent distortion as you push it in. Some are VERY tight,
either the axles are under-size or distorted, or the bushes are made too
large.
If the diff. is not out, and you don't have an extractor or slide hammer,
use the bodger's last resort: using a broken hack-saw blade (preferably in a
handle) carefully cut through the bush (on the top side). If you are
careful, you can just break through the brass without damaging the case.
The new bush should be reamed using an adjustable reamer, to a diameter of
25.5mm, otherwise if the half-shaft is too tight in there, when it flexes it
will heat up on the bush and lose its heat treatment (I have seen them blued
from the heat generated, and a softened shaft will not last long!). Any
larger and they don't work very well, as most people have discovered!
One solution to all this is to use special bearing nuts with lip-seals to
keep the oil out of the hub. Phil Marino makes the "wrong" sort ('orrible
slotted things, as in MMM cars and incorrectly in T-types), whereas I make
them Hexagonal as Abingdon intended.
BTW, how is Phil doing?

ocTagonally

Roger

John Swanland wrote:

>If the differential is out, it's a simple matter, using an appropriately
>sized socket and a broom handle, to drive them out from the other side.

Does anyone know the details of the removal and replacement of the oil

>return bushings on a TC? Looks like a special puller might be required and
>a mandrel of some sort needed to reinstall the new parts undamaged. The
>housing is still mounted on the chassis.

In a message dated 03/29/2000 2:34:59 PM EST, roger.46tc@virgin.net writes:

. Phil Marino makes the "wrong" sort ('orrible

> slotted things, as in MMM cars and incorrectly in T-types),

I have never taken a TC rear axle apart and found anything but the
"orrible slotted nut" with eight tines. Are we sure that these were not
also original equipment for the TC?
Any replacement nuts I use now are MGA type octagonal nuts. You do need a
special socket but so much easier to torque.
regards, Bob

On Wed, 29 Mar 2000, Bob and Carolyn Grunau wrote to Roger Furneaux:

> I have never taken a TC rear axle apart and found anything but the
> "orrible slotted nut" with eight tines.

Ditto

> Are we sure that these were not also original equipment for the TC?

I wonder about that too.

--
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E
fold@bcpl.net