Wilsons Sandbox

Hi Jim, I have two hammers like you describe, and one is heavier than yours. Somewhere I had a set of spare inserts. I'll flag your message so if I discover them I'll contact you. I inherited the lighter one from my father and picked up the heavier one at a local hardware store about a dozen years ago. I agree they work great. However they are still not as good (in my opinion) as a lead hammer, because there is no cast iron on the head of a lead hammer. These are more easily found. So my advise is to look for both. BTW the English Wire Wheel Co. in California sells lead hammers. Cheers, Peter

[quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Shirley Mink [mailto:mink@enter.net] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, August 28, 2001 2:56 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] wheel hammer Several years ago I bought a great knock off hammer at a flea market. It is now wearing out and I would like to replace it. Unfortunately I can't seem to find another one. The one I have is about 4/5 lbs. The head is made in two parts from what appears to be steel or cast iron. There is a large nut which slides up the handle and clamps the two parts together. This holds two rolled raw hide inserts which actually serve as the head when hitting something. The hammer is marked; BASA HAMMER, Greene, Tweed &Co., New York, NO. 3. I have been told that it might be a machinist's hammer but that is just a guess. The point is that after several years of beating on my knock offs they look like new. A quick check of Thomas Register failed to come up with this company name. Any ideas? Jim, TC8970 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[/quote]

Hi Jim,

2 lb. Thor hammers are available with copper on one end and rawhide on the other. Cost about $35.00 Cdn. I sell them but mail cost is a pain.

I am going to Lime Rock this weekend and could deliver.

BTW, you ever get that standard TC half shaft?

Bob

Several years ago I bought a great knock off hammer at a flea market. It is now wearing out and I would like to replace it. Unfortunately I can't seem to find another one. The one I have is about 4/5 lbs. The head is made in two parts from what appears to be steel or cast iron. There is a large nut which slides up the handle and clamps the two parts together. This holds two rolled raw hide inserts which actually serve as the head when hitting something. The hammer is marked; BASA HAMMER, Greene, Tweed &Co., New York, NO. 3. I have been told that it might be a machinist's hammer but that is just a guess. The point is that after several years of beating on my knock offs they look like new. A quick check of Thomas Register failed to come up with this company name. Any ideas? Jim, TC8970

Be cautious using dead blow hammers. You may not be getting the wheel on as tight as you would with a copper or lead hammer. I recently observed some damage to a hub where the wheel was not on tight enough. The wheel spines had dug into the hub. By experiment we put the wheel on with a dead blow hammer as hard as a grown man could swing. We then tightened it and watched the wheel advance at least three spoke widths tighter.

Bruce

-----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Victoria Vernon [mailto:vernons@ibex.co.za] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 31, 2001 12:22 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc; Shirley Mink [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer

Hi Jim,

although I have a copper mallet in the tool box I use a rubber mallet for removing the knock ons on my car. There is no damage and apart from the metal tubular handle no metal.

Clem TC7218

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

_filtered #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 { font-family:French Script MT;} _filtered #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 { font-family:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 P.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoNormal { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 LI.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoNormal { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoNormal { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 A:link { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoHyperlink { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 A:visited { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 P.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoAutoSig { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 LI.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoAutoSig { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1222415551MsoAutoSig { FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 TT { } #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1222415551EmailStyle18 { COLOR:navy;} #ygrps-yiv-1222415551 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1222415551Section1 { } Hi Bruce and the rest of you Whitworth Heads, I agree completely with Bruce. You will not tighten the knock-off adequately with a plastic "deal-blow" hammer and much less with a rubber mallet. A heavy raw hide hammer works well, but its cast iron head/clamp easily damages spokes or knock-off when blows land out of control. By far the best hammer, better than copper/rawhide lightweight type supplied with tool kits, is a three pound lead hammer (no cast iron on the head at all). It will not damage the chrome. Due to lead's greater ductility (it dents much more than copper each time blow lands) it does not scuff or slip from the ear of the knock-off, and it has more mass than copper. However due to this they will deform more readily over time. If you are enterprising you could make a mold of a fresh head in plaster or cement and reshape it indefinitely with a propane torch. I have been happy for years using lead hammers to tighten the knock-offs on my TC, B, Jag and Maser. So please keep them tight. You've all heard stories about wire wheels taking a different path. My B even came with a flat spot on the circumference on one of its disks, and I know just how and why that happened to a previous owner! Cheers, Peter

[quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Bruce J. Obbink [mailto:bruceobbink@mbayweb.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, September 01, 2001 11:23 AM [b]To:[/b] Victoria Vernon; mg-tabc; Shirley Mink [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer Be cautious using dead blow hammers. You may not be getting the wheel on as tight as you would with a copper or lead hammer. I recently observed some damage to a hub where the wheel was not on tight enough. The wheel spines had dug into the hub. By experiment we put the wheel on with a dead blow hammer as hard as a grown man could swing. We then tightened it and watched the wheel advance at least three spoke widths tighter.

Bruce

-----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Victoria Vernon [mailto:vernons@ibex.co.za] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 31, 2001 12:22 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc; Shirley Mink [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer

Hi Jim,

although I have a copper mallet in the tool box I use a rubber mallet for removing the knock ons on my car. There is no damage and apart from the metal tubular handle no metal.

Clem TC7218

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[/quote]

_filtered #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 { font-family:French Script MT;} _filtered #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 { font-family:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 P.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 LI.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 A:link { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoHyperlink { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 A:visited { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 P.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoAutoSig { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 LI.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoAutoSig { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1022540018MsoAutoSig { FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 TT { } #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 SPAN.ygrps-yiv-1022540018EmailStyle18 { COLOR:navy;} #ygrps-yiv-1022540018 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1022540018Section1 { } I thought I had read years ago that the wheel rides on the splines, and that overtightening could ruin the wheel by driving it against the hub taper. I lost a wheel on a TR-3 when I hit the brakes and the wheel spun over the splines-but that was obviously worn splines and had nothing to do with the spinner tightness. But I guess maybe there are two separate issues.: Check your splines.. if they have sharp top edges, better invest in new ones! Regards from Ohio Mark TC8126

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] pleitner@dundee.net [b]To:[/b] bruceobbink@mbayweb.com ; vernons@ibex.co.za ; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com ; mink@enter.net [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, September 01, 2001 9:30 PM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer Hi Bruce and the rest of you Whitworth Heads, I agree completely with Bruce. You will not tighten the knock-off adequately with a plastic "deal-blow" hammer and much less with a rubber mallet. A heavy raw hide hammer works well, but its cast iron head/clamp easily damages spokes or knock-off when blows land out of control. By far the best hammer, better than copper/rawhide lightweight type supplied with tool kits, is a three pound lead hammer (no cast iron on the head at all). It will not damage the chrome. Due to lead's greater ductility (it dents much more than copper each time blow lands) it does not scuff or slip from the ear of the knock-off, and it has more mass than copper. However due to this they will deform more readily over time. If you are enterprising you could make a mold of a fresh head in plaster or cement and reshape it indefinitely with a propane torch. I have been happy for years using lead hammers to tighten the knock-offs on my TC, B, Jag and Maser. So please keep them tight. You've all heard stories about wire wheels taking a different path. My B even came with a flat spot on the circumference on one of its disks, and I know just how and why that happened to a previous owner! Cheers, Peter [quote] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Bruce J. Obbink [mailto:bruceobbink@mbayweb.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, September 01, 2001 11:23 AM [b]To:[/b] Victoria Vernon; mg-tabc; Shirley Mink [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer Be cautious using dead blow hammers. You may not be getting the wheel on as tight as you would with a copper or lead hammer. I recently observed some damage to a hub where the wheel was not on tight enough. The wheel spines had dug into the hub. By experiment we put the wheel on with a dead blow hammer as hard as a grown man could swing. We then tightened it and watched the wheel advance at least three spoke widths tighter.

Bruce

-----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Victoria Vernon [mailto:vernons@ibex.co.za] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 31, 2001 12:22 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc; Shirley Mink [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] wheel hammer

Hi Jim,

although I have a copper mallet in the tool box I use a rubber mallet for removing the knock ons on my car. There is no damage and apart from the metal tubular handle no metal.

Clem TC7218

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. [/quote]