Re: Slow running control

[Peter Roberts]

Can anyone direct me to a good photograph or drawing of the fitment of the TC Slow Running Control?

Many Thanks,

_Peter

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cliffknight@tiscali.co.uk]

Hi List
May I ask a question about the slow running control?
I recently bought an original knob that goes on the dash. My quesion
is should the control cable be soldered into the screw part of the
knob, in which case the cable will twist as the knob is turned? If so,
is it rigidly fixed at the carbureter end or should their be something
to take up the twist?

If anyone has a spare carb end slow running lever thay want to sell
please let me know off list. I know they are available from the usual
dealers but I'd rather machine one out of a piece of brass than pay
those prices.

Best wishes
Cliff

PS., if anyone is interested in seeing my TA at the Greek Mountain
Classic Rally this month there are several utube videos - http://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=0LBHkAmdxIE




Get 50% off Norton Security 2009 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/security
________________________________________________________

[Clive Sherriff]

No, the metal "blob" on the dash end of the cable
stays static whilst the knob is screwed out, drawing
the cable and blob with it.

Clive
Oxford UK
'==============================

----- Original Message -----
From: cliffknight@tiscali.co.uk
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 8:46 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow running control





Hi List
May I ask a question about the slow running control?
I recently bought an original knob that goes on the dash. My quesion
is should the control cable be soldered into the screw part of the
knob, in which case the cable will twist as the knob is turned? If so,
is it rigidly fixed at the carbureter end or should their be something
to take up the twist?

If anyone has a spare carb end slow running lever thay want to sell
please let me know off list. I know they are available from the usual
dealers but I'd rather machine one out of a piece of brass than pay
those prices.

Best wishes
Cliff

PS., if anyone is interested in seeing my TA at the Greek Mountain
Classic Rally this month there are several utube videos - http://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=0LBHkAmdxIE

Get 50% off Norton Security 2009 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/security
________________________________________________________





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cliffknight@tiscali.co.uk]

Thanks Clive. How does the blob locate? My knob has a hole up the centre of the brass threaded bit. Does the knob unscrew from the threaded bit to feed the cable through? - I haven't tried to force it for fear of cracking the bakelite. Or perhaps there should be a separate blob holder that I am missing?

Thanks again

Cliff


----Original Message----
From: clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com
Date: 23/04/2009 9:23
To: ,
Subj: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow running control









No, the metal "blob" on the dash end of the cable
stays static whilst the knob is screwed out, drawing
the cable and blob with it.

Clive
Oxford UK
'==============================

----- Original Message -----
From: cliffknight@tiscali.co.uk
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 8:46 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow running control

Hi List
May I ask a question about the slow running control?
I recently bought an original knob that goes on the dash. My quesion
is should the control cable be soldered into the screw part of the
knob, in which case the cable will twist as the knob is turned? If so,
is it rigidly fixed at the carbureter end or should their be something
to take up the twist?

If anyone has a spare carb end slow running lever thay want to sell
please let me know off list. I know they are available from the usual
dealers but I'd rather machine one out of a piece of brass than pay
those prices.

Best wishes
Cliff

PS., if anyone is interested in seeing my TA at the Greek Mountain
Classic Rally this month there are several utube videos - http://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=0LBHkAmdxIE

Get 50% off Norton Security 2009 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/security
________________________________________________________

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














Get 50% off Norton Security 2009 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/security
__________________________________________________________

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Doug Pelton]

Hi Cliff,

Your concern for pricing is clearly understood. In the US the Moss "usual price" is $144.95. However, I have this listed in my catalog for $63. Your point is one of the reasons I started my business. Maybe I can help.

Doug Pelton
From The Frame Up, LLC
3754 E Nance Circle
Mesa, AZ 85215
602-690-4927
www.FromTheFrameUp.com



-----Original Message-----
From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cliffknight@tiscali.co.uk
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 12:46 AM
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow running control

Hi List
May I ask a question about the slow running control?
I recently bought an original knob that goes on the dash. My quesion
is should the control cable be soldered into the screw part of the
knob, in which case the cable will twist as the knob is turned? If so,
is it rigidly fixed at the carbureter end or should their be something
to take up the twist?

If anyone has a spare carb end slow running lever thay want to sell
please let me know off list. I know they are available from the usual
dealers but I'd rather machine one out of a piece of brass than pay
those prices.

Best wishes
Cliff

PS., if anyone is interested in seeing my TA at the Greek Mountain
Classic Rally this month there are several utube videos - http://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=0LBHkAmdxIE




Get 50% off Norton Security 2009 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/security
________________________________________________________



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Ian Linton]

Hi Group,

My (new from Moss UK awhile ago) Slow Running Control lever has just fallen
apart after only a little use.

How do I repair it, please? The solid wire appears to pass a ball near the
end of the brass screw section, and there are two circular holes near this
end. I see mention in posts about a year ago of a "soldered blob", which
presumably sits above the ball and traps the wire end?

I'd use JB Weld, but then the wire will try to rotate, which dose not fit
with the solid clamp at the other end.

Any repair suggestions would be appreciated (although I should probably
return to Moss for replacement).

Best regards to all, and really enjoying taking TA3120 out now, except for
all these little niggles that stop me enjoying it.................
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex, UK

[Ian Linton]

Hi Group,

IMO not enough answers get circulated to the whole Group, so just so you know............

Regards,
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex UK

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: David Thoumine ; vze4xyru ; WS Hyatt
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control


Guys,

Thank you for your advice. I dug out my original Control which was seized and very rusty, but cleaned up OK with the help of some penetrating oil, sandpaper, etc.

Taking the plastic knob off each unit, the original had a steel ball drilled through the centre and a small radial groove. This allowed the central wire to turn through 90degrees and thus turn independently of the control knob. The Moss repro was similar in all respects, except the the top end of the wire ended in a soldered thick disk, which had sheared off the wire.

So it's gone back to Moss for a refund today, and I've reinstalled my original, oiled up and with a black plastic sleeve over it for cosmetic/cleanliness reasons.

Again, thank you all for your advice (the only 3 who answered). Moral: if it ain't broke, don't buy a modern repro!

Regards,
Ian

----- Original Message -----
From: David Thoumine
To: Ian Linton
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control


Ian
Return it to them I had exactly the same problem.
Regards
Dave T
Down under
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 4:28 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control



Hi Group,

My (new from Moss UK awhile ago) Slow Running Control lever has just fallen
apart after only a little use.

How do I repair it, please? The solid wire appears to pass a ball near the
end of the brass screw section, and there are two circular holes near this
end. I see mention in posts about a year ago of a "soldered blob", which
presumably sits above the ball and traps the wire end?

I'd use JB Weld, but then the wire will try to rotate, which dose not fit
with the solid clamp at the other end.

Any repair suggestions would be appreciated (although I should probably
return to Moss for replacement).

Best regards to all, and really enjoying taking TA3120 out now, except for
all these little niggles that stop me enjoying it.................
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex, UK






----------------------------------------------------------------------------



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Peter Lund]

Could you provide a diagram? Might be a good project!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2010, at 10:42 AM, "Ian Linton" wrote:

Hi Group,

IMO not enough answers get circulated to the whole Group, so just so you know............

Regards,
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex UK

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: David Thoumine ; vze4xyru ; WS Hyatt
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Guys,

Thank you for your advice. I dug out my original Control which was seized and very rusty, but cleaned up OK with the help of some penetrating oil, sandpaper, etc.

Taking the plastic knob off each unit, the original had a steel ball drilled through the centre and a small radial groove. This allowed the central wire to turn through 90degrees and thus turn independently of the control knob. The Moss repro was similar in all respects, except the the top end of the wire ended in a soldered thick disk, which had sheared off the wire.

So it's gone back to Moss for a refund today, and I've reinstalled my original, oiled up and with a black plastic sleeve over it for cosmetic/cleanliness reasons.

Again, thank you all for your advice (the only 3 who answered). Moral: if it ain't broke, don't buy a modern repro!

Regards,
Ian

----- Original Message -----
From: David Thoumine
To: Ian Linton
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Ian
Return it to them I had exactly the same problem.
Regards
Dave T
Down under
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 4:28 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Hi Group,

My (new from Moss UK awhile ago) Slow Running Control lever has just fallen
apart after only a little use.

How do I repair it, please? The solid wire appears to pass a ball near the
end of the brass screw section, and there are two circular holes near this
end. I see mention in posts about a year ago of a "soldered blob", which
presumably sits above the ball and traps the wire end?

I'd use JB Weld, but then the wire will try to rotate, which dose not fit
with the solid clamp at the other end.

Any repair suggestions would be appreciated (although I should probably
return to Moss for replacement).

Best regards to all, and really enjoying taking TA3120 out now, except for
all these little niggles that stop me enjoying it.................
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex, UK

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2801 - Release Date: 04/10/10 04:32:00

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ian Linton]

Peter,

Not worth it, too simple, but I can take a photo of my original if you wish.

The repro has been returned to the supplier for a refund.

Ian

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Lund
To: Ian Linton
Cc: mg-tabc
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control



Could you provide a diagram? Might be a good project!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2010, at 10:42 AM, "Ian Linton" wrote:

Hi Group,

IMO not enough answers get circulated to the whole Group, so just so you know............

Regards,
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex UK

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: David Thoumine ; vze4xyru ; WS Hyatt
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Guys,

Thank you for your advice. I dug out my original Control which was seized and very rusty, but cleaned up OK with the help of some penetrating oil, sandpaper, etc.

Taking the plastic knob off each unit, the original had a steel ball drilled through the centre and a small radial groove. This allowed the central wire to turn through 90degrees and thus turn independently of the control knob. The Moss repro was similar in all respects, except the the top end of the wire ended in a soldered thick disk, which had sheared off the wire.

So it's gone back to Moss for a refund today, and I've reinstalled my original, oiled up and with a black plastic sleeve over it for cosmetic/cleanliness reasons.

Again, thank you all for your advice (the only 3 who answered). Moral: if it ain't broke, don't buy a modern repro!

Regards,
Ian

----- Original Message -----
From: David Thoumine
To: Ian Linton
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Ian
Return it to them I had exactly the same problem.
Regards
Dave T
Down under
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Linton
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 4:28 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Slow Running Control

Hi Group,

My (new from Moss UK awhile ago) Slow Running Control lever has just fallen
apart after only a little use.

How do I repair it, please? The solid wire appears to pass a ball near the
end of the brass screw section, and there are two circular holes near this
end. I see mention in posts about a year ago of a "soldered blob", which
presumably sits above the ball and traps the wire end?

I'd use JB Weld, but then the wire will try to rotate, which dose not fit
with the solid clamp at the other end.

Any repair suggestions would be appreciated (although I should probably
return to Moss for replacement).

Best regards to all, and really enjoying taking TA3120 out now, except for
all these little niggles that stop me enjoying it.................
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex, UK

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2801 - Release Date: 04/10/10 04:32:00

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Graham]

I have at long last, after 40 years' ownership, got round to fitting the correct slow running control, which helps fill another empty hole in the dash.
I will need to put a collar for the carb spindle to prevent the slow running lever from moving away from its correct positioning on the spindle. Hopefully, Burlen will have something suitable.

I have a concern though, about the strength of the hairpin spring which provides tension in the cable, and returns it to the closed position. It is not enough to fully return it, and I have had to add a long coil spring anchored down on the steering column tube, which is untidy and should be un necessary.
The hairpin spring also seems to be at risk of falling off, as it is only hooked around the cable anchorage at the end of the lever, plus through the hole in the top bracket.
The cable and spring were new from Doug Pelton, and quality is excellent, but has anyone else been in this situation, and is there a stronger version of this hairpin spring available?

Graham
Buckingham, where it is autumn again already.
TC3107

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