Re: master cylinder

[pop.freeserve.net]

I had a similar problem with a new master cylinder (cast bronze body type) I found that three washers had been placed between the front end of the piston (where it connects with the push rod from the linkage) and the retaining circlip. This kept the piston too far back and prevented the pressure releasing in the "off" position. I removed one washer and it works fine. This may be a point that you could check on yours. Regards James Mumford

----- Original Message ----- From: Barc Cunningham barcc@auracom.com> To: T-ABCs Forever mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 6:25 PM Subject: [mg-tabc] Master Cylinder > Group; > My master cylinder is locked up solid. Probably the piston covering the > hole > to the tank. What is the amount to be trimmed off the end to allow it to > clear > the hole? All the best, Barc > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

[mgandrew43023]

I replaced this item several years and less than 300 miles ago. Recently I have noticed diminishing brakes and a leak which caused the rubber cover to harden and deteriorate so now it is time to rebuild, again. I have also noticed that there is poor allignment between the pedal mechanism and the plunger and what would be the best way to deal with that? Is there a compatibility issue with various brake fluids? If so what do I want to use. The wheel cylinders seem to be OK. Mark Andrew TC 5146

[davjak@aol.com]

Mark, Just went thru the brakes on TC 5041 and had the master cylinder and wheel cylinders sleeved in brass. Double check your master cylinder fluid reservoir for any rust that may result in leaks later after you have sunk a bundle in the brass sleeve process. The master cylinder is mounted thru an oval shaped hole and is adjustable by loosening the mounting nut and sliding the master cylinder assembly up and down. This description is in Mike Sherrells Book: TCs Forever Dave Long Island, NY TC5041, TC5228 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Peter Roberts]

Mark, I have just been through a complete brake overhaul, for the first time in many years. Unless you have been regularly flushing the brake system every year, given your low mileage, assume you have rust and pitting in the MC and at the wheel cylinders. This would be likely despite whether you use DOT 5 silicone, or DOT 3 or 4. If you are lucky, the MC and the wheel cylinders only need a simple honing to bring them smooth and shiny. This is a simple job. Plan to replace all rubber (i.e. wheel cylinder kits and MC kit). Beat the leaks. When you reassemble, go to EVERY union in the system and wrap the threads with Teflon tape before you tighten them up. Get new brass washers for the MC banjo and the brake hoses at the wheels. In my case, the brass washers at the MC banjo had hardened with age and began to leak. It was progressive and insidious and suckered me into believing there was no leak (i.e. no fluid on the ground!) If your hoses show any signs of age, replace them also. (A 19MM deep socket gets the nut off the back of the MC.) Choose your poison for brake fluid. Many of us prefer DOT 5 because it is so benign to paint and rubber. Others swear by DOT 4. Get plenty, because you will want to completely flush the system....and then some. Simplify your life with Speed Bleeders (Google will find them for you). Alignment of the pedal to the plunger is accomplished by adjusting the "cup" end of the pedal mechanism. Toy with it and you will see that you can modify the angle of the cup to the plunger. Try for as straight an angle as you can before the plunger actually moves the MC piston. _Peter

----- Original Message ----- From: "mgandrew43023" mgandrew43023@yahoo.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 1:51 PM Subject: [mg-tabc] Master Cylinder >I replaced this item several years and less than 300 miles ago. > Recently I have noticed diminishing brakes and a leak which caused the > rubber cover to harden and deteriorate so now it is time to rebuild, > again. I have also noticed that there is poor allignment between the > pedal mechanism and the plunger and what would be the best way to deal > with that? > > Is there a compatibility issue with various brake fluids? If so what > do I want to use. The wheel cylinders seem to be OK. > > Mark Andrew > TC 5146 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Terry Horlick]

I have a persistant leak from my master cylinder. I have done a honing and a kit to no avail. I can pull it out and replace it with a reproduction unit, but am thinking that it may make more sense to replace it with a dual master unit. Of course that will require separating the front from the rear to make it a true dual set-up. Has anyone else done this? Does this have any effect on driving? Is it difficult to get the two systems created balanced properly? Terry TC2285

[SEBRING222@aol.com]

Terry- I can recommend sending your master cylinder to White Post restorations to have the unit brass sleeved and rebuilt. The turnaround is fast and the work is first rate. This should cure any leaking for the foreseeable future. Jim Dougherty TC 4931 TC 5382 -----Original Message----- From: Terry Horlick thorlick@sbcglobal.net> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:20:21 -0000 Subject: [mg-tabc] Master cylinder I have a persistant leak from my master cylinder. I have done a honing and a kit to no avail. I can pull it out and replace it with a reproduction unit, but am thinking that it may make more sense to replace it with a dual master unit. Of course that will require separating the front from the rear to make it a true dual set-up. Has anyone else done this? Does this have any effect on driving? Is it difficult to get the two systems created balanced properly? Terry TC2285 Yahoo! Groups Links

[MERLIN GARAGES]

Yes I have done this. No real problems I just made a long stainless steel rod that ran further back through the original cylinder mount to a master cylinder that was bolted to the chassis rail by a bracket. This had a socket drilled in it for the original push rod to fix into it and was rounded the other end as the standard to fit in the master cylinder. This bracket must be secure I did not drill the chassis but clamped the bracket to the rail. I only had to drill one hole in the chassis for a brake pipe to pass through because there was no clearance. The bore was the same as the T type cylinder but do not ask me what that was. The only problem is that there is considerable travel on the pedal if I circuit fails but it does work (I rear cylinder failed within 6 months). This was done 20 years ago filled with silicone never touched since. If you want photos can sort them out in a few days The Works cars had dual circuit brakes I think the master cylinder was from a SVW car but the original bracket was modified to fit it and I think they are as rare as hens teeth nowadays. David Darrell TA 0455 -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Terry Horlick Sent: 20 July 2005 15:20 To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] Master cylinder I have a persistant leak from my master cylinder. I have done a honing and a kit to no avail. I can pull it out and replace it with a reproduction unit, but am thinking that it may make more sense to replace it with a dual master unit. Of course that will require separating the front from the rear to make it a true dual set-up. Has anyone else done this? Does this have any effect on driving? Is it difficult to get the two systems created balanced properly? Terry TC2285 Yahoo! Groups Links

[davjak@aol.com]

If you do use White Post, inspect the parts carefully when you get them back. My hydraulic components were contaminated with residual brass machining byproducts some were keeping the bleeders from seating. Last time I used them there were no problems; possibly mine were done on Friday? They also want to do the full job. Others will complete the machining and let you rebuild them yourself for additional savings-the route I will take next time. Make sure you mark your parts! I got back some ones' leaking master (reservoir) cylinder along with assorted claw hammer/vise grip/ file marks! Dave TC 5228, TC 5041 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[1939mgtb]

"> Terry-

> I can recommend sending your master cylinder to White Post > restorations to have the unit brass sleeved and rebuilt. The turnaround > is fast and the work is first rate. This should cure any leaking for > the foreseeable future. > > Jim Dougherty"

Jim is quite right. White Post uses brass which does not react with the iron. There are, however, certain types of "stainless" steel that WILL react with the cylinder material over time. I have a friend who used another company to rebuild his old corvette (say what?) brakes, and over about five years electrolysis set in. Best, Ray "argent saoudien illimit , fanatiques islamistes Occidentalis s, tats de support de terroriste, technologie nucl aire de prolif ration. Un jour elle toute vient ensemble et l dispara t le voisinage."

> > I have a persistant leak from my master cylinder. I have done a > honing and a kit to no avail. I can pull it out and replace it with a > reproduction unit, but am thinking that it may make more sense to > replace it with a dual master unit. > > Of course that will require separating the front from the rear to make > it a true dual set-up. Has anyone else done this? Does this have any > effect on driving? Is it difficult to get the two systems created > balanced properly? > > Terry TC2285 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Mick Conde]

Dave - I agree. I quite using White Post and Apple years ago for the same reasons. I have recently heard of a shop on the west coast near the LA,CA area if I remember correctly that sleeves with 312/316 stainless steel. Anyone know them ? mick davjak@aol.com wrote:If you do use White Post, inspect the parts carefully when you get them back. My hydraulic components were contaminated with residual brass machining byproducts some were keeping the bleeders from seating. Last time I used them there were no problems; possibly mine were done on Friday? They also want to do the full job. Others will complete the machining and let you rebuild them yourself for additional savings-the route I will take next time. Make sure you mark your parts! I got back some ones' leaking master (reservoir) cylinder along with assorted claw hammer/vise grip/ file marks! Dave TC 5228, TC 5041 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]