Oil Pump Leak on XPAG

[Peter Debruyn]

I've got a persistent weeping of oil at the joint of the pump body and the pump cover (where there is no gasket). The oil is wicking out of this joint (along the top surface, between bolts on either side) running down the front, beading up on the bolt heads and then dripping from there (at first I thought it was coming from the bolts). What can I do to stem this tide without resorting to drastic (engine removal) means - is blue silicone an acceptable solution? The bolts are as tight as I can stand to make them (they're stretching) HELP! Peter deBruyn TC 0252 TC 2903

[joecurto@aol.com]

Peter I would make sure that the cover is flat and has no nicks or scratches, you may have to have the cover ground flat on a surface grinder, the same holds true for the body (be careful) and I would use a little bead of loc-tite as a "gasket" on the surface, and do not use silicon as I that has a tendency to weep into the pump and than you will wind up with spaghetti in your pump and oil galleries, causing no end of problems. I have heard of guys using Hylomar gasket sealer but I heard that it is oil soluble so if you have a scratch exposed to oil than you are back to square one. Joe

[Willbowden@aol.com]

Peter..you didnt tell us what you did to the OP, change gears, engine rebuild, Did this just start? The bolts are Metric, with whitworth heads, 6mmx1.0,(?) carry one to the hardare store and test the threads, with a metric nut or hold new bolt up and set the old bolt threads into the new one. They should mesh evenly. Ace hardware.is a good convient source. Resurface the covewr, a machine shop or "LAP" it yourself on a flat surface ( pane of glass is good) with emery or wet and dry sand paper 400?. Use the new metric bolts with a flat washer only, brass,copper or alum. Good luck...........Will TC 9522

[Roland Taras]

The best way is to have the cover and body surface ground. Remember that the clearance between the end of the gears and the cover should be .0016" to .0035". I would advise, from a sad experience, not to take the clearance to the lower limit. The gears expand more than the body of the pump. Butch Taras -----Original Message----- From: Peter Debruyn [mailto:peterprod@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 10:47 AM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] Oil Pump Leak on XPAG I've got a persistent weeping of oil at the joint of the pump body and the pump cover (where there is no gasket). The oil is wicking out of this joint (along the top surface, between bolts on either side) running down the front, beading up on the bolt heads and then dripping from there (at first I thought it was coming from the bolts). What can I do to stem this tide without resorting to drastic (engine removal) means - is blue silicone an acceptable solution? The bolts are as tight as I can stand to make them (they're stretching) HELP! Peter deBruyn TC 0252 TC 2903 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Neil Nelson]

First, make sure all the bolts are torqued evenly. If the leak is definitely from the cover plate and not the bolts you might try this. Remove the cover plate and starting with some 2000 grit wet or dry on a piece of glass, sand the mating surface until it is level around the edges. If it is badly warped, you might try Emory cloth first then finish off with some 2000 grit wet or dry. Use oil as a lubricant when sanding. Use the finest grit paper you can and with patience it will come down smooth. Remember, only the mating surface around the edge is what you want to be even. This surface is a machined fit and no gasket sealer or gasket is supposed to be used here. I think replacement covers were available at one time, not sure if they are now. The only way the cover can leak if all bolts are torqued the same is if it is warped or damaged in some way. Ruling out damage, leveling the mating surface will make for a good machine fit again. Don't overdo it with the sand paper grit, use the finest and work down from there if it doesn't do the job. Be patient. You are trying to duplicate that machined surface and leveling the cap at the same time. Turn your work after every 6 to 8 strokes so you don't introduce scratches all in one direction. Don't overdo it! The clearance between the cap and the driven gear are critical to proper pump suction and pressure. Be sure to investigate a replacement cap. These were replacement items when the cars were younger. They would wear where the driven gear rides against the cap and eventually exceed the clearances allowed in the workshop manual. The manual gives the proper clearances to look for and describes a rebuild procedure. Good luck.. Neil Nelson TC 0526 -----Original Message----- From: Peter Debruyn [mailto:peterprod@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 1:47 PM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] Oil Pump Leak on XPAG I've got a persistent weeping of oil at the joint of the pump body and the pump cover (where there is no gasket). The oil is wicking out of this joint (along the top surface, between bolts on either side) running down the front, beading up on the bolt heads and then dripping from there (at first I thought it was coming from the bolts). What can I do to stem this tide without resorting to drastic (engine removal) means - is blue silicone an acceptable solution? The bolts are as tight as I can stand to make them (they're stretching) HELP! Peter deBruyn TC 0252 TC 2903 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Roger Furneaux]

Re: [mg-tabc] Oil Pump Leak on XPAG Hi folks - all the replies on this have been spot-on, the cover (like the top of the Bishop cam) should be absolutely flat and blemish free. But having a good machine shop do it on their surface grinder is a lot less hassle free than doing it by hand, unless you are snowed in and have nothing better to do... Incidently, I have always wondered why the pump bolts originally had copper washers, unless it was to seal the heads against leaking. But then the correct torque is VERY low (only [b]12[/b] lbs. ft.) so perhaps the procedure was to tighten up until the bolt head just started to cut into the copper (most torque wrenches don't go down this low). And how many cars have the correct washers nowadays? BTW, I make these bolts from 1/4" BSF so the heads are correct, so if you break one (easily done!) you know who to ask. oc[b]T[/b]agonally Roger

[quote]Peter..you didnt tell us what you did to the OP, change gears, engine rebuild, Did this just start? The bolts are Metric, with whitworth heads, 6mmx1.0,(?) carry one to the hardare store and test the threads, with a metric nut or hold new bolt up and set the old bolt threads into the new one. They should mesh evenly. Ace hardware.is a good convient source. Resurface the covewr, a machine shop or "LAP" it yourself on a flat surface ( pane of glass is good) with emery or wet and dry sand paper 400?. Use the new metric bolts with a flat washer only, brass,copper or alum. Good luck...........Will TC 9522

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