helmet study

DSN_KLR650
Daniel Niide
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:45 pm

need help

Post by Daniel Niide » Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:45 pm

Hi, last month I changed the front drive shafts on my son' s Mazda MX6 cause cv joint boots were falling apart. Could not bust off the bolts/nuts connecting outter end to the wheel hub. Tried everything from Liquid Wrench, breaker bar w/ 3 ft. pipe extension, torching, and no luck. Was about ready to pay big bucks to the machine shop for them to do the job, but luckily read somewhere about PB Buster. PB Buster is a liquid in a spray can sold at most auto parts stores. Sprayed the frozen parts and let it sit over night. Next morning it came of like magic. Now, whenever I do work on parts that I think will give me a problem, I spray first, let sit overnight, seems to work all the time.From: Thomas Komjathy To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 7:25 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Need help Yes folks, the rotor on the new engine I just purchased has officially kicked my ass. Sequence of events are; 1. Rotor puller bolt stripped (took two hours to get it out). 2. Cur stripped portion of puller bolt off, cleaned threads on rotor, then stripped puller bolt again. Yes I gave it a couple of good whacks with a hammer. 3. Cut last portion of puller bolt, turned, wack, turn, wack, turn, wack......stripped puller bolt again, and now the rotor threads are shot. Oh, while wacking the rotor puller bolt, one of the magnets cracked and came off.... Yes, I heated the rotor prior the third attempt. 4. cut a relief in the rotor to help loosen it. I need help here, can anyone give me any suggestion as to how to get this mother F&*(ker off. Thankfully I have another rotor. TK Thomas Komjathy Diversified Safety Konsulting, LLC --------------------------------- All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

need help

Post by Norm Keller » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:43 pm

At this point you seem to be beyond the realm of pullers as I would be concerned about applying more force to the end of the crankshaft. Without seeing, which always worries one, my suggestion is that you are going to have to split the flywheel. If I were where I think you are, I would mask things off to prevent entry of grindings and other swarf into the engine, and use my air cut off tool. Good luck, it would be a time and attention to detail project but not difficult. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mr. Casian
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 3:48 pm

need help

Post by Mr. Casian » Thu May 05, 2011 4:48 pm

Hello everybody, I have some problems at the electric part at KLR 650, tengay, 1991. If somebody can help me with the repair manual please let me know. I have the motorbike in service right now and i need it quick to fix the problem. Tks and greetings! Octavian Dancila casiaan@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jeffrey
Posts: 367
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:07 am

need help

Post by Jeffrey » Thu May 05, 2011 10:50 pm

you would better off describing its problems...we can more likely help you that way than get you an antique manual

Greg May
Posts: 176
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:01 am

need help

Post by Greg May » Fri May 06, 2011 5:11 am

check the KLR650 FAQ, it has a copy of the wiring diagram http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#top ________________________________ From: Mr. Casian To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Fri, May 6, 2011 5:50:01 AM Subject: Fw: [DSN_KLR650] need help i don't have power at the spark plug and i need to set up the wires by colors. And I need the work shop manual for this, if someone can up load it on https://www.wetransfer.com/. Tks a lot! Octavian Dancila casiaan@... ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: mark ward To: Mr. Casian Sent: Friday, May 6, 2011 3:20 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] need help Tell us the Issue, Someone may have had the same issue Or at least know what to do. ALSO there's Schematics on the web.
--- On Thu, 5/5/11, Mr. Casian wrote: >From: Mr. Casian >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] need help >To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 9:47 PM > > > >Hello everybody, > >I have some problems at the electric part at KLR 650, tengay, 1991. If somebody >can help me with the repair manual please let me know. I have the motorbike in >service right now and i need it quick to fix the problem. > >Tks and greetings! > > >Octavian Dancila >casiaan@... > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

skypilot110
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:12 am

need help

Post by skypilot110 » Fri Nov 13, 2015 8:11 pm

Riding along on some very nice dirt roads in NJ at the Pine Barrens 500 and the bike stalled at an intersection. Would not turn over until cool then it will not start although the engine turns over. We pulled it with another bike and it started but when dropped to idle stalls. found oil was about 1.5 quarts low.  never burned that much before but maybe I forgot to check it after riding some hoghway last week.  Got it running and headed for home. Noticed temp stayed the same by the low end but it is cool out and I was running 45-50 on back country roads so temp should stay low. then the engine stopped. I think it actually siezed at speed. I grabbed the clutch and pulled over. would not turn over until it cooled again. then turns over fine but no pop, no bang. I can feel it huffing out of exasust pipe. I trailered back and put in my 1.5qts oil but still no pop. I dont know if the "no start" is secondary to the sieze or visa versa. I plan to pull panels in the morning to see if I find anything but some options would help. If I killed a valve or something like that then I need to go home and order a 685 top end and rebuild it. What do I need Chris from Canton, AKA Skypilot

jeffsaline
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:37 am

need help

Post by jeffsaline » Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:51 pm

#ygrps-yiv-623279844 .ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-photo-title { OVERFLOW:hidden;FONT-SIZE:smaller;HEIGHT:15px;WIDTH:75px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-photo { BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 P { OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-TOP:15px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 DIV.ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp { BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;PADDING-LEFT:10px;MARGIN:10px 0px;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-RIGHT:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp HR { BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-623279844hd { FONT-SIZE:85%;FONT-WEIGHT:700;COLOR:#628c2a;MARGIN:10px 0px;LINE-HEIGHT:122%;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-623279844ads { MARGIN-BOTTOM:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-623279844ad { PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-623279844ad P { MARGIN:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-623279844 #ygrps-yiv-623279844ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-623279844ad A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;COLOR:#0000ff;} On 13 Nov 2015 18:11:05 -0800 "christopher.eckert@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   Riding along on some very nice dirt roads in NJ at the Pine Barrens 500 and the bike stalled at an intersection. Would not turn over until cool then it will not start although the engine turns over. We pulled it with another bike and it started but when dropped to idle stalls. found oil was about 1.5 quarts low.  never burned that much before but maybe I forgot to check it after riding some hoghway last week. Got it running and headed for home. Noticed temp stayed the same by the low end but it is cool out and I was running 45-50 on back country roads so temp should stay low. then the engine stopped. I think it actually siezed at speed. I grabbed the clutch and pulled over. would not turn over until it cooled again. then turns over fine but no pop, no bang. I can feel it huffing out of exasust pipe. I trailered back and put in my 1.5qts oil but still no pop.   I dont know if the "no start" is secondary to the seize or visa versa. I plan to pull panels in the morning to see if I find anything but some options would help. If I killed a valve or something like that then I need to go home and order a 685 top end and rebuild it. What do I need   Chris from Canton, AKA Skypilot <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Chris,   First thing I would do is remove the valve cover and inspect the valve clearances and the cam journals, especially the exhaust cam journals.   Running a KLR engine low on oil usually causes significant damage to the head cam journals.   Sharing the year of your KLR might be helpful.  There are a few differences between Gen I and Gen II KLRs.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650   ____________________________________________________________ Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.

skypilot110
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:12 am

need help

Post by skypilot110 » Fri Nov 13, 2015 10:00 pm

08 btw

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

helmet study

Post by Norm Keller » Sat Nov 14, 2015 12:22 pm

#ygrps-yiv-2146784473 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-2146784473cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-2146784473cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 .ygrps-yiv-2146784473plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 .ygrps-yiv-2146784473plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-2146784473 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 .ygrps-yiv-2146784473plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-2146784473 .ygrps-yiv-2146784473plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} A member of https://www.facebook.com/groups/klrmoto/  posted this link to a discussion of a German motorcycle helmet study: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TESS8hXDv24 I may be of interest and worth forwarding to those friends who favor half helmets and beanies.

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

need help

Post by Norm Keller » Sat Nov 14, 2015 12:22 pm

#ygrps-yiv-1684110983 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1684110983cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1684110983cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 .ygrps-yiv-1684110983plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 .ygrps-yiv-1684110983plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1684110983 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 .ygrps-yiv-1684110983plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1684110983 .ygrps-yiv-1684110983plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Endless speculation won't help you at this point, as Jeff suggested. IME, still having a quart in the sump should avoid cam damage but no guarantee. I bought my present bike sight unseen because it was making some bad top end noises which were noticed after the owner returned from a long ride and hadn't checked the oil. He put in 2 litres (bit more than 2 US quarts) to bring the level into the sight glass. The noises turned out to be something else and the cams are in nice condition. If you post your city, there might be someone close by who can give a hands on/ear to the question. I can give you Jeff's address....  ;-)

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