Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:37 pm**

Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. Tried testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances intermittently on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even then. Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. Thanks, Todd

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:57 am**

On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:

> Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5572edec2074d6dec09f6st02vuc

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:59 am**

Thanks Jeff, It's a Gen I. Brown lead to the tach had power. Black lead had the varying pulse of the engine rpm. Tried jumping the ground to better ground without success. The way the tach jumped when running made me think a bad connection somewhere. Di electric greased the 9 pin and the regulator/rectifier plugs. Might pull it apart again and look at the connection posts on the circuit board. t. On 6/6/2015 5:47 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com writes: > Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5572edec2074d6dec09f6st02vuc

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 11:14 am**

Todd, If I was working on it I would still try the three jumper wires. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? I've never seen a wiring diagram for the tach. The factory service manual for Gen I says this is how to check the tach: Tachometer Inspection Note: The tachometer inspection is explained on the assumption that the ignition system operates normally. -Turn the ignition switch ON. -With the BK/Y and the BR lead connected, open or connect the BK lead to the BR lead repeatedly using an auxiliary wire. Then the tachomter hand should flick. *If the hand does not flick, replace the tachometer unit. Based on what you've said I bet you do have a bad connection and a good tach. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 07:59:58 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Thanks Jeff, It's a Gen I. Brown lead to the tach had power. Black lead had the varying pulse of the engine rpm. Tried jumping the ground to better ground without success. The way the tach jumped when running made me think a bad connection somewhere. Di electric greased the 9 pin and the regulator/rectifier plugs. Might pull it apart again and look at the connection posts on the circuit board. t.

On 6/6/2015 5:47 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: > Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5572edec2074d6dec09f6st02vuc ____________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/55731c1b7acbd1c1b105dst04vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 12:13 pm**

1 vote for Jeff S. Years ago, I tested a Clothes Washer motor, I was getting 118 Volts, & Ground but not working, so New motor needed right? WRONG I installed the New Motor and still nothing, come to find out The wire was broken inside the insulation and barely touching.Touching enough for the Voltage to show, put No where near enough Amps. Like Pinching a Garden hose that is barely turned on, Hose feels full and strong when pinched tight, yet very little follow up pressure when "flowing". (tiny trickle) On Saturday, June 6, 2015 12:14 PM, "salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Todd, If I was working on it I would still try the three jumper wires. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? I've never seen a wiring diagram for the tach. The factory service manual for Gen I says this is how to check the tach: Tachometer Inspection Note: The tachometer inspection is explained on the assumption that the ignition system operates normally. -Turn the ignition switch ON. -With the BK/Y and the BR lead connected, open or connect the BK lead to the BR lead repeatedly using an auxiliary wire. Then the tachomter hand should flick. *If the hand does not flick, replace the tachometer unit. Based on what you've said I bet you do have a bad connection and a good tach. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 07:59:58 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Thanks Jeff, It's a Gen I. Brown lead to the tach had power. Black lead had the varying pulse of the engine rpm. Tried jumping the ground to better ground without success. The way the tach jumped when running made me think a bad connection somewhere. Di electric greased the 9 pin and the regulator/rectifier plugs. Might pull it apart again and look at the connection posts on the circuit board. t. On 6/6/2015 5:47 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: > Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL314 ... 9f6st02vuc __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. 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Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 4:02 pm**

Tried the jump the wires, but had trouble deciding if they meant connecting the wires together, or leaving them connected to the tach. Left them connected to the tach and jumped the BK to B and only succeeded in blowing the fuse. Riding today, I did notice the tach jumped a lot when the ride was early and settled to dead as time went on. Makes me think the tach unit is functional and that the problem is in the input or ground connection or on the circuit board. Since the wiring looked good, I'm suspicious that there is a diode or such that's failing as it warms up. Don't know much on the electronics side of life, so should be able to get into trouble pretty easily. Woohoo. All this for crying, at least the bike still runs great on this gorgeous spring day. Went to the gun show the long way round with my honey. That somehow makes everything ok... almost. Thanks for the input friends. t. On 6/6/2015 9:12 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Todd, If I was working on it I would still try the three jumper wires. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? I've never seen a wiring diagram for the tach. The factory service manual for Gen I says this is how to check the tach: Tachometer Inspection Note: The tachometer inspection is explained on the assumption that the ignition system operates normally. -Turn the ignition switch ON. -With the BK/Y and the BR lead connected, open or connect the BK lead to the BR lead repeatedly using an auxiliary wire. Then the tachomter hand should flick. *If the hand does not flick, replace the tachometer unit. Based on what you've said I bet you do have a bad connection and a good tach. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 07:59:58 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com writes: Thanks Jeff, It's a Gen I. Brown lead to the tach had power. Black lead had the varying pulse of the engine rpm. Tried jumping the ground to better ground without success. The way the tach jumped when running made me think a bad connection somewhere. Di electric greased the 9 pin and the regulator/rectifier plugs. Might pull it apart again and look at the connection posts on the circuit board. t. On 6/6/2015 5:47 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com writes: > Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5572edec2074d6dec09f6st02vuc __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/55731c1b7acbd1c1b105dst04vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 5:00 pm**

Todd, Leave the black/yellow (ground) and brown (switched battery positive) connected to the tach. Then using a jumper wire just touch and immediately pull away the black to the brown. Just kind of a tap, tap, tap action. Each tap should cause the tach needle to jump. The engine isn't running for this factory test. When I suggest using jumper wires I mean remove the stock wires from the back of the tach and use other wires connected to battery positive for brown, the frame (ground) for the black/yellow and to the coil black for the black wire. Then start the engine and see if the tach works. This method removes all bike wiring from the troubleshooting process. If the tach works with the jumpers then connect one factory wire at a time and test each time. When the tach doesn't work you know which wire is the problem. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 14:02:49 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Tried the jump the wires, but had trouble deciding if they meant connecting the wires together, or leaving them connected to the tach. Left them connected to the tach and jumped the BK to B and only succeeded in blowing the fuse. Riding today, I did notice the tach jumped a lot when the ride was early and settled to dead as time went on. Makes me think the tach unit is functional and that the problem is in the input or ground connection or on the circuit board. Since the wiring looked good, I'm suspicious that there is a diode or such that's failing as it warms up. Don't know much on the electronics side of life, so should be able to get into trouble pretty easily. Woohoo. All this for crying, at least the bike still runs great on this gorgeous spring day. Went to the gun show the long way round with my honey. That somehow makes everything ok... almost. Thanks for the input friends. t.

On 6/6/2015 9:12 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Todd, If I was working on it I would still try the three jumper wires. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? I've never seen a wiring diagram for the tach. The factory service manual for Gen I says this is how to check the tach: Tachometer Inspection Note: The tachometer inspection is explained on the assumption that the ignition system operates normally. -Turn the ignition switch ON. -With the BK/Y and the BR lead connected, open or connect the BK lead to the BR lead repeatedly using an auxiliary wire. Then the tachomter hand should flick. *If the hand does not flick, replace the tachometer unit. Based on what you've said I bet you do have a bad connection and a good tach. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 07:59:58 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Thanks Jeff, It's a Gen I. Brown lead to the tach had power. Black lead had the varying pulse of the engine rpm. Tried jumping the ground to better ground without success. The way the tach jumped when running made me think a bad connection somewhere. Di electric greased the 9 pin and the regulator/rectifier plugs. Might pull it apart again and look at the connection posts on the circuit board. t. On 6/6/2015 5:47 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 20:37:53 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: > Tachometer died today for no apparent reason. Signal to the unit is > > strong. No visible frying of the diodes or tortured wires inside. > Tried > testing it with a better ground with no effect. Dances > intermittently > on occasion when riding, but won't give an accurate reading even > then. > Anyone have advice as to a fix, or have a spare to sell. > > Thanks, > Todd <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Todd, It often helps if you tell us what year or generation of KLR you are having issues with. In this case it might not matter. Try using three jumper wires from the back of the tach to: Brown to 12 volt positive Black to coil/CDI/Ignitior Black/yellow to ground. Run the engine. If the tach then works correctly remove one jumper at a time and reconnect the wire that was removed to discover which part of the circuit is the issue. If the tach still doesn't work correctly it is probably the tach with an internal issue. If it is a Gen II KLR650 take a very close look at the wires near the steering head. Check especially close around brackets. Gen II KLR650s are known to have wire rub through issues which cause many weird issues. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5572edec2074d6dec09f6st02vuc __________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/55731c1b7acbd1c1b105dst04vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ____________________________________________________________ Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/55736d77996bf6d772330st04vuc [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:38 pm**

I'm following this thread with considerable interest. The tach on the 07 I rode back from MI did the same thing before it died completely. I made it about halfway to Seattle before the tach died completely. When I got the new bike home I swapped the tach with my 02 (known good tach) and the good tach didn't work on the newer bike so I assumed an intermittent connection to the tach that became open over time. Bur after 80K miles of KLR seat time I find the tach as redundant as those little bells the Harley crowd advocates to bring about good luck. So after swapping the good tach back to the 02 I turned my attention to more pressing matters

. But now that I'm not the only Gen1 bike owner with the issue ill take another look at it. You all have shamed me into it! From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 6/ 6/ 2015 2:58 PM To: zootpatutie@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Tachometer death Todd, Leave the black/yellow (ground) and brown (switched battery positive) connected to the tach. Then using a jumper wire just touch and immediately pull away the black to the brown. Just kind of a tap, tap, tap action. Each tap should cause the tach needle to jump. The engine isn't running for this factory test. When I suggest using jumper wires I mean remove the stock wires from the back of the tach and use other wires connected to battery positive for brown, the frame (ground) for the black/yellow and to the coil black for the black wire. Then start the engine and see if the tach works. This method removes all bike wiring from the troubleshooting process. If the tach works with the jumpers then connect one factory wire at a time and test each time. When the tach doesn't work you know which wire is the problem. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Sat, 6 Jun 2015 14:02:49 -0700 "'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Tried the jump the wires, but had trouble deciding if they meant connecting the wires together, or leaving them connected to the tach. Left them connected to the tach and jumped the BK to B and only succeeded in blowing the fuse. Riding today, I did notice the tach jumped a lot when the ride was early and settled to dead as time went on. Makes me think the tach unit is functional and that the problem is in the input or ground connection or on the circuit board. Since the wiring looked good, I'm suspicious that there is a diode or such that's failing as it warms up. Don't know much on the electronics side of life, so should be able to get into trouble pretty easily. Woohoo. All this for crying, at least the bike still runs great on this gorgeous spring day. Went to the gun show the long way round with my honey. That somehow makes everything ok... almost. Thanks for the input friends. t.

On 6/6/2015 9:12 AM, salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Todd, If I was working on it I would still try the three jumper wires. Seems like you have a pretty good handle on it. Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? I've never seen a wiring diagram for the tach. The factory service manual for Gen I says this is how to check the tach: Tachometer Inspection Note: The tachometer inspection is explained on the assumption that the ignition system operates normally. -Turn the ignition switch ON. -With the BK/Y and the BR lead connected, open or connect the BK lead to the BR lead repeatedly using an auxiliary wire. Then the tachomter hand should flick. *If the hand does not flick, replace the tachometer unit.

[The entire original message is not included.]

Posted: **Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:19 pm**

#ygrps-yiv-1006538105 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1006538105cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1006538105cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 .ygrps-yiv-1006538105plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 .ygrps-yiv-1006538105plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1006538105 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 .ygrps-yiv-1006538105plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1006538105 .ygrps-yiv-1006538105plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Todd, here is some more detailed information on the Gen1 wiring which I put together. If it turns out that you have a wire issue, the routing and junctions may help to locate the problem. I'd also appreciate any feed back as to errors, what makes it hard to use/what would make it easier, etc. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uha92pqkxq4eoaw/AABwFh5AIevN4dlJeZUitdjsa?dl=0

Posted: **Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:33 pm**

I live in West Michigan, and have traveled to some far reaches of the Mainland USA,

Even been to Duluth Mn once on my way hm from Estes park Co. (Some say WAY out of the way) And the from Duluth to Soo Michign (& Soo Canadian Bridge)

So all I have been all along the Bottom of Superior but never up and around it.

Those I know that have been Snowmobiling UP there say it's DIFFERENT, Way out between towns NATURE, Forest etc.,

So Close yet so far away.

HMMM Maybe someday, on my way to Alaska, or Maine / Nova Scotia etc.

(Out of the way? hmmmm

Getting to Duluth alone would be an extra 500+- miles, let alone UP, OVER, AND AROUND THE BEAST OF THE GREAT LAKES.

Wilsons Sandbox

so close yet........

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

tachometer death

so close yet........