--- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick wrote:
From: rick
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 1:40 PM
Greg,thanks for the response. As a builder and general handyman around
the house and motorcycle, I have used zip ties for years. I totally
understand your comments on support as I build with lots of engineered
plans so my building don't fail. That said, the stainless straps
(clamps) I use are actually hose clamps and hose clamps have no
structural value either( how many of us over the years have ever seen
a hose clamp on a hose fail?). I could go back to what has worked in
so many situations over the years, duct tape and bailing wire. But
what I would like to find is a neat setup that may work. I always
start with 4 clamps on my tube so even if 2 have broken, I have never
had the issue of the tool tube in the wheel even though I have had a
floppy tool tube. Trust me, I am aware of the consequences and that is
why I am looking for something that may last a longer period of time
rather than shorter. One of the things that causes the stainless
clamps to fail is the sharp angles of the radiator guards/skid plate
setup. I am not willing to compromise the integrity of that setup, so
I will continue to look for a long lasting alternative. I also noted
your comment on the ziptie with the metal catch. Some of my zipties I
use have them and some not. I have an account at my local electrical
supply, I'll go down and see what they have.
Maybe I will get a hold of one of my structural/civil engineers and
have them design something( can you imagine the end product). Then, I
too, will be a seller of KLR farkle. Thanks for your response.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Greg May wrote:
>
> Hi Rick, I don't use a tool tube so i can't comment on
how I mounted mine but I can pass on a little on the use of
ty wraps. Over the years I have used many many thousands of them
for securing various sizes of power and control cables, notice I said
securing not supporting. For quick and dirty use on cabling they are
hard to beat but they do have a few problems some real and some
perhaps precieved.
>
> Some of the issues I have found with ty wraps in
no real order would be if you bought them at a large chain store
there is a good chance that they are not fit for your intended use,
check inside the "head" where the little latch tab is that prevents
the strap from pulling back out of itself, if you don't see
a small stainless steel tab just a moulded tab I wouldn't use
them they will probably fail quite quickly if subjected to shock
loads. Also a trait of the moulded tab seems to be failing at any
nicks as the molded tab variety seem to be made of a more brittle
material. I have seen the molded tab type fail with not a lot of
strain on them in a rolling wire track after the first extensio n
retraction cycle where the stainless steel tabbed type would last
for a year maybe.
>
> Another issue and this is only from personal
experience unless the rating is on the bag the ty wraps come
in, avoid& nbsp;using the white one's outside, use the black ones.
UV exposure& nbsp;causes the white ones to get brittle and
fail where the black ones last for years. I'm not sure if this happens
because of their composition but I have been told that the black
ones are for outside use but I have never confirmed because I have
seen the white ones fail when used outside while the black ones
survive so I just use the black ones.
>
> For years tywraps were used to secure and
support flat and vertical runs of cable, several years ago
suddenly according to the Electrical Inspection department in
Nova Scotia were were no longer allowed to use them for supporting
cable, the reason given was because they don't have a listed load
rating so they can't be approved to support anything, at the time we
did check and could find no listed load rating for the couple types we
would use. I did lately notice that the tywraps that are made or
stainless steel rather the nylon do have a listed load rating but
these are expensive.
>
> Hopefully the above info is of use to you, a 3"
plastic tube coming off or partially off between your front
and read tire at speed is definitely not what I would consider a good
thing. The tywraps I use are made by Thomas and Betts and do have
the stainless steel tab and should be available at most
electrical suppliers but personally I would look at using a proper
metal pipe strap if you already had an aluminum skid plate installed.
Anyway all the above is personal experience and i'm sure others
will have different opinions. ..have a great day.....Greg& nbsp;
>
> --- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick colomtnbiker@ ... wrote:
>
> From: rick colomtnbiker@ ...
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube
> To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com
> Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 2:04 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Now this is fun. 10 years and 140,000 miles. Wow. Now I maintain 2
> klr's, my wife's and mine. They are 3 years old and together have
> 45,000 miles on them and have been to Canada, Alaska and most of
> Mexico and Central America. Whoopie doo for both of us. Now, I agree
> with EL. What a concept to use Gladiator Gear, aka, crash bars, and
> the tool tubes don't take the beating, especially when, as EL says,
> they are inside the crash bars. Wow, that EL guy is smart. Also, I
> personally, like the 3" size.
> Now what I have found is the stainless steel straps seems to die on
> their own whims. Last weekend on the way to Moab from Colorado, I had
> 3 stainless straps break for no apparent reason, I hadn't even
> crashed. But what I had read somewhere on one of these sites, is to
> use 18" zip ties. At the Canyonlands Classic last weekend, a small
> group rode up to Island in the Sky and I was mentioning the bands
> breaking. Tim from Sacramento was using the zipties and gave me one. I
> have since gone to Lowe's to pick up a couple of packs of zipties and
> I am giving them a shot. Plus Tim also uses a velco strap wrapped
> around the center of his tube.
> One thing I did find that cracked both of our tubes is the extra
> little nub of threads on the U bolt on the front of the skid plate. I
> have cut those off recently and made new tubes. So I will see how that
> does. I may take a small piece of rubber( old piece of bicycle tube,
> etc) and cover the two nuts that protrude from the U bolt for a bit
> more protection for the tube.
>
> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "E.L. Green" eric@ wrote:
> >
> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn
> > wrote:
> > > At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote:
> > > >Howdy,I' m surprised that no one has cautioned against
attaching your
> > > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall
caused it to
> > > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I
learned from
> > > >that.Jim A5
> > >
> > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open
like an egg.
> >
> > I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times
since
> > I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's
happened is
> > that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait...
> > crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash
> > bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring).
> >
> > > would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is.
> >
> > I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel
> > with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of
> > clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube
> > *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it
lower,
> > basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The
> > tire clears it at full compression at that location, and
because I cut
> > it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems
> > when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked
over
> > the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just
> > scuffed the paint a little heh!).
> >
> > -E
> >
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