holidays?
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david zawadzki
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
Hi folks,
I have a 2007 and some clown backed into my bike and bent the clutch. Time for a replacement. I always had an issue with the brake/clutch lever being so far to reach. Are there any brake/clutch mods out there for our baby?
Something that easier and quicker to grab in case of emergency? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Racing-Billet-Clutch-Levers/dp/B00E90VYRA/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413985428&sr=8-3-fkmr3&keywords=klr+650+clutch+lever
Thanks!--
David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com
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skypilot110
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:12 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
Havent seen one but Fred's andswer would be a more confirming response. Most of the adjustable ones are road race products. You could adapt one buy replacing the entire assembly but it will not survive long if you get into any off road.
You could also look at companies like ProTaper. They make handlebars and controls for the MotorX types. They spend more time building bikes to fit themselves than my wife spends picking out cloths 
Chris from CTa.k.a. Skypilot
Chris from CTa.k.a. Skypilot-
Fred Hink
- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
Anything is possible, but at what cost? There are no adjustable levers that I know about to fit the stock perches. For the clutch perch you would need to replace the complete LH switch assembly and for the right side you would need to replace the front master cylinder. This can be done but pretty soon the costs start to outweigh the advantages. You can change the reach on the stock clutch lever by adjusting the freeplay on the clutch cable. There isn t much you can do for freeplay adjustment on the front brake lever.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:21 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR 650 Brake and clutch lever
Havent seen one but Fred's andswer would be a more confirming response. Most of the adjustable ones are road race products. You could adapt one buy replacing the entire assembly but it will not survive long if you get into any off road. You could also look at companies like ProTaper. They make handlebars and controls for the MotorX types. They spend more time building bikes to fit themselves than my wife spends picking out cloths Chris from CT a.k.a. Skypilot
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mark ward
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
I have easily BENT a clutch lever by heating it. and had a piece of steel pipe on the end while doing so. (Repaired for a friend after a fall)
You must keep the flame (or heat-gun) moving back & forth over the area (& a little wider) while you have pressure on it in the direction you want to go.
OR YOU WILL (CAN) WEAKEN IT, OR BREAK IT.
On Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:34 AM, "'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Anything is possible, but at what cost? There are no adjustable levers that I know about to fit the stock perches. For the clutch perch you would need to replace the complete LH switch assembly and for the right side you would need to replace the front master cylinder. This can be done but pretty soon the costs start to outweigh the advantages. You can change the reach on the stock clutch lever by adjusting the freeplay on the clutch cable. There isn t much you can do for freeplay adjustment on the front brake lever. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:21 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR 650 Brake and clutch lever Havent seen one but Fred's andswer would be a more confirming response. Most of the adjustable ones are road race products. You could adapt one buy replacing the entire assembly but it will not survive long if you get into any off road. You could also look at companies like ProTaper. They make handlebars and controls for the MotorX types. They spend more time building bikes to fit themselves than my wife spends picking out cloths
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Norm Keller
- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
Hoping someone has matched these against the pivot assembly as otherwise it's a big risk. Levers usually don't swap into other pivot assemblies very well, IME.
I'm happy with the stock clutch lever action so long as I keep the pivot points lubricated and have a good cable such as the Yamaha ATV one I usually use. The lever positioning and arc of movement match my hand well which is likely a combination of good engineering and luck that my hands are fairly typical.
I haven't looked at swapping on another cable type clutch lever but would proceed by taking the stock assembly in hand and cruising friends' bike shops to check for a swap. Undoubtedly you've already considered that.
The modification which is attractive, just because it's so elegant technically, is a hydraulic clutch but hard to justify for me as the stock one works well. Perhaps you might do some searches for that option? There are so many hydraulic systems which use far heavier spring packs than the KLR so power should almost never be an issue. If you consider an option providing a longer stroke, that would offer some lever positioning variability.
Would you mind expanding on your concerns regarding grabbing in an emergency? I don't usually consider the clutch lever at all in an emergency stop, or at least not until the bike is nearly stopped and I have time to consider downshifting. Perhaps there are aspects which might be reexamined?
Please keep us in the loop.
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Norm Keller
- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
#ygrps-yiv-1025125049 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1025125049cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1025125049cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 .ygrps-yiv-1025125049plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 .ygrps-yiv-1025125049plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1025125049 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 .ygrps-yiv-1025125049plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1025125049 .ygrps-yiv-1025125049plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} I mounted one of these to my Gen1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-Front-Right-Brake-Lever-Master-Cylinder-for-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-500-R-ZX10R-/370886528553?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565a8f4e29&vxp=mtr The lever is better shaped, IMO, than the stock KLR lever; the lever has position adjustment; the master cylinder is complete with reservoir, mount, brake light switch, banjo bolt & washers- a simple bolt-on. The bore is 10 mm versus the stock KLR master's bore of 12 mm. This has advantages and disadvantages: the hydraulic pressure for a given apply force is higher for this master so braking application is increased significantly; the reduced bore provides less displaced fluid so the piston must move further making slack in the system and trapped air more of a problem. I'm very happy with the modification but it does require set-up to optimize: I don't know how well this will work with stock (stretchy) brake hoses as mine were steel braided before the install. Mike plans to bring his bike one of these days for the modification so we will install the master, test, and then install braided lines. I will report following that experiment. The lever needs to be shimmed, IME, for best results so I used a dime stuck to the end of the master cylinder piston & added a shim into the lever mechanism. My front brake went from stock/weak to pretty good as can get the front tire to squawk under many conditions. FWIW, I could pull the stock lever back to compress the hand grip rubber so expected to lose lever stroke but careful set-up has much improved application while still pulling to the grip. I'm waiting for Terry to finish making the adapter plate to mount a Suzuki front caliper and Gen2 rotor to see if that improves and is still compatable with the Ninja master. Much more background involved there but don't know that anyone is interested and tired of typing. 
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John Biccum
- Posts: 542
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:21 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
I'd like to see an adapter to fit the two-pot calipers as furnished on the V-Stroms to the KLR with a stock rotor.
There are lots of these calipers surplus since fitting 4-pot calipers sourced from the GSXR sportbikes is a common mod for the V-Stroms. There are a lot of surplus GSXR calipers since the GSXRs are frequently ridden by riders with more testosterone than ability From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 10/ 24/ 2014 12:18 PM
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR 650 Brake and clutch lever
I mounted one of these to my Gen1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-Front-Right-Brake-Lever-Master-Cylinder-for-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-500-R-ZX10R-/370886528553?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565a8f4e29&vxp=mtr The lever is better shaped, IMO, than the stock KLR lever; the lever has position adjustment; the master cylinder is complete with reservoir, mount, brake light switch, banjo bolt & washers- a simple bolt-on. The bore is 10 mm versus the stock KLR master's bore of 12 mm. This has advantages and disadvantages: the hydraulic pressure for a given apply force is higher for this master so braking application is increased significantly; the reduced bore provides less displaced fluid so the piston must move further making slack in the system and trapped air more of a problem. I'm very happy with the modification but it does require set-up to optimize: I don't know how well this will work with stock (stretchy) brake hoses as mine were steel braided before the install. Mike plans to bring his bike one of these days for the modification so we will install the master, test, and then install braided lines. I will report following that experiment. The lever needs to be shimmed, IME, for best results so I used a dime stuck to the end of the master cylinder piston & added a shim into the lever mechanism. My front brake went from stock/weak to pretty good as can get the front tire to squawk under many conditions. FWIW, I could pull the stock lever back to compress the hand grip rubber so expected to lose lever stroke but careful set-up has much improved application while still pulling to the grip. I'm waiting for Terry to finish making the adapter plate to mount a Suzuki front caliper and Gen2 rotor to see if that improves and is still compatable with the Ninja master. Much more background involved there but don't know that anyone is interested and tired of typing.
From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 10/ 24/ 2014 12:18 PM
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR 650 Brake and clutch lever
I mounted one of these to my Gen1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-Front-Right-Brake-Lever-Master-Cylinder-for-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-500-R-ZX10R-/370886528553?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565a8f4e29&vxp=mtr The lever is better shaped, IMO, than the stock KLR lever; the lever has position adjustment; the master cylinder is complete with reservoir, mount, brake light switch, banjo bolt & washers- a simple bolt-on. The bore is 10 mm versus the stock KLR master's bore of 12 mm. This has advantages and disadvantages: the hydraulic pressure for a given apply force is higher for this master so braking application is increased significantly; the reduced bore provides less displaced fluid so the piston must move further making slack in the system and trapped air more of a problem. I'm very happy with the modification but it does require set-up to optimize: I don't know how well this will work with stock (stretchy) brake hoses as mine were steel braided before the install. Mike plans to bring his bike one of these days for the modification so we will install the master, test, and then install braided lines. I will report following that experiment. The lever needs to be shimmed, IME, for best results so I used a dime stuck to the end of the master cylinder piston & added a shim into the lever mechanism. My front brake went from stock/weak to pretty good as can get the front tire to squawk under many conditions. FWIW, I could pull the stock lever back to compress the hand grip rubber so expected to lose lever stroke but careful set-up has much improved application while still pulling to the grip. I'm waiting for Terry to finish making the adapter plate to mount a Suzuki front caliper and Gen2 rotor to see if that improves and is still compatable with the Ninja master. Much more background involved there but don't know that anyone is interested and tired of typing.
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Norm Keller
- Posts: 712
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
#ygrps-yiv-153338046 BLOCKQUOTE.ygrps-yiv-153338046cite { PADDING-LEFT:10px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:#cccccc 1px solid;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 BLOCKQUOTE.ygrps-yiv-153338046cite2 { PADDING-TOP:0px;PADDING-LEFT:10px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:#cccccc 1px solid;MARGIN-TOP:3px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 .ygrps-yiv-153338046plain PRE { FONT-SIZE:100%;FONT-FAMILY:monospace;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;FONT-STYLE:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 .ygrps-yiv-153338046plain TT { FONT-SIZE:100%;FONT-FAMILY:monospace;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;FONT-STYLE:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 A IMG { BORDER-TOP:0px;BORDER-RIGHT:0px;BORDER-BOTTOM:0px;BORDER-LEFT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 .ygrps-yiv-153338046plain PRE { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 .ygrps-yiv-153338046plain TT { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 #ygrps-yiv-153338046xbf865471b5d14f6c9ea722ca3f544d4c P.ygrps-yiv-153338046MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:11pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", "sans-serif";MARGIN:0cm 0cm 10pt;LINE-HEIGHT:115%;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 DIV.ygrps-yiv-153338046MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:11pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", "sans-serif";MARGIN:0cm 0cm 10pt;LINE-HEIGHT:115%;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 LI.ygrps-yiv-153338046MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:11pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", "sans-serif";MARGIN:0cm 0cm 10pt;LINE-HEIGHT:115%;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 #ygrps-yiv-153338046xbf865471b5d14f6c9ea722ca3f544d4c .ygrps-yiv-153338046MsoChpDefault { FONT-SIZE:10pt;} #ygrps-yiv-153338046 #ygrps-yiv-153338046xbf865471b5d14f6c9ea722ca3f544d4c DIV.ygrps-yiv-153338046WordSection1 { } You must be psychotic, John. ..... I mean psychic. The email message which arrived directly after yours was from Terry who will drop by tomorrow with the prototype. Will keep the thread posted. This adapter will mount the Suzi caliper to a Gen1 with Gen2 rotor (280 mm), rather than the stock 260 mm rotor. I doubt that there will be significant difference to make either adapter. Terry expressed an interest in having his company produce some of these if a quantity are ordered. I'm interested but guarded as the total piston area only increases by about 10% when going from Gen1 caliper to the Suzuki SV650 dual piston caliper. The flip side is that those who have reported installing one to a 320 mm rotor report significantly improved braking. One factor I cannot quantify is the difference in radius to the effective center of the pad material which doesn't have to be much further out to provide significant increase in friction. Norm
..... I mean psychic. The email message which arrived directly after yours was from Terry who will drop by tomorrow with the prototype. Will keep the thread posted. This adapter will mount the Suzi caliper to a Gen1 with Gen2 rotor (280 mm), rather than the stock 260 mm rotor. I doubt that there will be significant difference to make either adapter. Terry expressed an interest in having his company produce some of these if a quantity are ordered. I'm interested but guarded as the total piston area only increases by about 10% when going from Gen1 caliper to the Suzuki SV650 dual piston caliper. The flip side is that those who have reported installing one to a 320 mm rotor report significantly improved braking. One factor I cannot quantify is the difference in radius to the effective center of the pad material which doesn't have to be much further out to provide significant increase in friction. Norm-
landsail
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 10:32 pm
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
I am also in the availability of the adapter for mounting a sv650 caliper. I have a Gen 1 with the 320 mm rotor and stainless lines. Additional stopping power would be nice as I have that on my heavier sport bikes (License plate FASTFN and HAYBUSA). The KLR is more fun with only 37 hp and two sets of wheels for dual sport and dirt! Mark in Nevada
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david zawadzki
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm
klr 650 brake and clutch lever
Thanks to all. I mainly ride in the city and like to ride with 2 fingers on the front brake. Sometimes a millisecond makes a difference.Currently, the lever is far away and slightly uncomfortable..
-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.comOn Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 1:07 PM, landsail@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] I am also in the availability of the adapter for mounting a sv650 caliper. I have a Gen 1 with the 320 mm rotor and stainless lines. Additional stopping power would be nice as I have that on my heavier sport bikes (License plate FASTFN and HAYBUSA). The KLR is more fun with only 37 hp and two sets of wheels for dual sport and dirt! Mark in Nevada
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