Wilsons Sandbox

Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out.  Bogdan From: "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Norm Keller Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 3:07 PM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help!   New radiator, fan works with fan switch wire grounded. Two problems I see as possible:   1) New fan switch is also bad. Not that likely, IME.   2) The radiator is not grounded to the chassis. Try using a jumper wire to connect the radiator to a bare engine or chassis point such as a bare bolt or the end of a cooling fin. Sounds like the new radiator's rubber mountings may be isolating the ground side. Just had a real head banger diagnosing an ABS brake modulator which I had repaired and shipped back to Germany. The Honda test procedure concluded the modulator was at fault but the problem was that the shop had reconnected the ground wire to the bracket rather than the modulator itself. Couldn't ground through the rubber grommets.   Just a thought.   If that doesn't solve it, the fan switch needs to be tested. Jumper to the base, jumper to the spade connector, base jumper to battery negative, spade jumper to a test light or light bulb, light bulb to battery positive. Confirm by touching the spade jumper to the base: light should illuminate. Then place the switch into a small container of water and heat to a boil (jumpers hooked up). About the time the water is starting to boil, the light should illuminate. If you're at quite high altitude, the water may boil below 210 F (switch's set point) so you may have to use some coolant in place of water to achieve a higher boiling temperature. A meat or other cooking thermometer will do the temperature measuring duty but not necessary near sea level with water as will see the boiling.   HIH

This is why all fuses must be wrapped in thick aluminum foil before inserting them in their holders or be replaced with solid bars to avoid failures. Just kidding. Not really. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:10 AM, Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out. Bogdan From: "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Norm Keller Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 3:07 PM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help! New radiator, fan works with fan switch wire grounded. Two problems I see as possible: 1) New fan switch is also bad. Not that likely, IME. 2) The radiator is not grounded to the chassis. Try using a jumper wire to connect the radiator to a bare engine or chassis point such as a bare bolt or the end of a cooling fin. Sounds like the new radiator's rubber mountings may be isolating the ground side. Just had a real head banger diagnosing an ABS brake modulator which I had repaired and shipped back to Germany. The Honda test procedure concluded the modulator was at fault but the problem was that the shop had reconnected the ground wire to the bracket rather than the modulator itself. Couldn't ground through the rubber grommets. Just a thought. If that doesn't solve it, the fan switch needs to be tested. Jumper to the base, jumper to the spade connector, base jumper to battery negative, spade jumper to a test light or light bulb, light bulb to battery positive. Confirm by touching the spade jumper to the base: light should illuminate. Then place the switch into a small container of water and heat to a boil (jumpers hooked up). About the time the water is starting to boil, the light should illuminate. If you're at quite high altitude, the water may boil below 210 F (switch's set point) so you may have to use some coolant in place of water to achieve a higher boiling temperature. A meat or other cooking thermometer will do the temperature measuring duty but not necessary near sea level with water as will see the boiling. HIH

22 long rifle shell works well for this. PaulYes i'm kidding! Don't even try this at home.  Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 7, 2014, at 11:19 AM, "RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  This is why all fuses must be wrapped in thick aluminum foil before inserting them in their holders or be replaced with solid bars to avoid failures. Just kidding.  Not really. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/7/2014 9:10 AM, Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:   Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out.  Bogdan From: "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Norm Keller Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 3:07 PM To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help!   New radiator, fan works with fan switch wire grounded. Two problems I see as possible:   1) New fan switch is also bad. Not that likely, IME.   2) The radiator is not grounded to the chassis. Try using a jumper wire to connect the radiator to a bare engine or chassis point such as a bare bolt or the end of a cooling fin. Sounds like the new radiator's rubber mountings may be isolating the ground side. Just had a real head banger diagnosing an ABS brake modulator which I had repaired and shipped back to Germany. The Honda test procedure concluded the modulator was at fault but the problem was that the shop had reconnected the ground wire to the bracket rather than the modulator itself. Couldn't ground through the rubber grommets.   Just a thought.   If that doesn't solve it, the fan switch needs to be tested. Jumper to the base, jumper to the spade connector, base jumper to battery negative, spade jumper to a test light or light bulb, light bulb to battery positive. Confirm by touching the spade jumper to the base: light should illuminate. Then place the switch into a small container of water and heat to a boil (jumpers hooked up). About the time the water is starting to boil, the light should illuminate. If you're at quite high altitude, the water may boil below 210 F (switch's set point) so you may have to use some coolant in place of water to achieve a higher boiling temperature. A meat or other cooking thermometer will do the temperature measuring duty but not necessary near sea level with water as will see the boiling.   HIH

#ygrps-yiv-943181708 .ygrps-yiv-943181708ygrp-photo-title { TEXT-ALIGN:center;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708ygrp-photo { BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 P { PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;CLEAR:both;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-943181708 DIV.ygrps-yiv-943181708ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} On Thu, 7 Aug 2014 16:10:34 +0000 "Bogdan Swider bSwider@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   Maybe this has been covered or isn't relevant as I can't remember where the fuse is located. Don't assume that the fuse in line to the fan is not broken even if it looks fine. Test it for continuity. That was the reason my fan wouldn't engage. It had a crack that was closed and thus not visible to the naked eye when the bike was cold. When the bike warmed up it would open up and cut off current to the fan. When I finally put the meter to a warm bike, I found this out.   Bogdan <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   You don't have to check the fuse when you ground the wire and the fan works.   That proves the fuse is allowing current to pass.   Good reminder when the fan doesn't turn if the wire is grounded.   Normal location for the fan fuse on a Gen I KLR is the coolant bottle support on the right front side of the bike.  Prior to 1990 the fan circuit didn't have a fuse.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .     ____________________________________________________________ [b]The End of the "Made-In-China" Era[/b] The impossible (but real) technology that could make you impossibly rich. fool.com

#ygrps-yiv-1537878672 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1537878672cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1537878672cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 .ygrps-yiv-1537878672plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 .ygrps-yiv-1537878672plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 .ygrps-yiv-1537878672plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1537878672 .ygrps-yiv-1537878672plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Robert, you can use a propane or butane torch to solder lead wires to either 10 mm or 45 ACP. Shotgun shells are more difficult to solder onto so you may have to run the end of the shell on the belt sander until there is bare metal. Let me know which one offers the least resistance. 

Never admit to belt sander use on the internet.They might think you ride KLR's.

On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 7:28 PM, intoodeep48@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: ^^^^^^Now that is humor....

Anyone know if these will cool better than the original?

 

GregM

A-9

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 08, 2014 8:57 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: This fan issue is making me nucking futs. Help!

 

Thanks to Norm, Mark, and Jeff.  I borrowed a wire with alligator clips on both ends from my multimeter and attached one end to a mounting tab on the sweet new radiator and the other to a motor mount.  Works like a charm with that addition.  I'll be making a proper ground wire this weekend.

 

So, in summary: 

 

eBay has plenty of $15 EX500 two-wire radiator fan motors that will work on the KLR.  The lack of a ground wire with the EX500 motor IS an issue that will need to be addressed, however. 

 

Fan relay is a stock Japanese part and can be had at any auto supply store. 

 

Fan switch?  It's an expensive little bitch, but don't buy a used one. 

 

As for the ASI Performance radiator, it IS bigger than the stocker so fan blades will need a little adjustment to clear the head, as will all of the mounts, both to the bike and for the fan mount.  More capacity should help and the natural aluminum finish is pretty nice to look at. 

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

Lamar

A14