ride report seattle to montana with my son
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:21 pm
The North Cascades Highway was described by the late Charles Kuralt as the
most beautiful road in America. Kuralt may well have been right, but Kuralt
didn't ride. Not surprisingly his description neglected to mention that
Washington Route 20 is also one of the premier motorcycle roads in the
nation. The road features miles and miles of linked sweepers, half-dozen
mountain passes and as Kuralt noted, world-class spectacular scenery. The
road embraces the Canadian border at high elevations so the road slumbers
each winter beneath a mantle of a dozen feet of snow, immune from the
free-thaw cycles that begat potholes. So the pavement tends to be great
condition as well.
So when my grad-school bound son and I decided to ride to our Montana
fly-fishing trip, we began our trip by droning north on Interstate 5,
working our way just north of Everett, WA - willing paying the slab-price to
pick up WA-20. I was on my WeeStrom with my son riding my 70K mile KLR, a
twin to the graduation present KLR waiting for him at grad school in NC. We
camped the first night near Kettle Falls, on Lake Roosevelt, a reservoir
created by a dam on the Columbia River.
My son had just returned just two days earlier from Spain, surviving running
with the bulls in Pamplona but falling victim to food poisoning that had
kept him close to a bathroom for the final day of his Spanish trip. At 5AM,
in tent in Kettle Falls, WA his food poisoning symptoms returned with a
vengeance.
After consulting the map, we decided to take the quickest route to Spokane,
the closest city with good access to health care. I asked the GPS to route
us to a hospital but the route took us right past another hospital so we
stopped at the first hospital we encountered. The ER physician diagnosed
food poisoning, prescribed prodigious quantities of Pedialyte and a
broad-spectrum antibiotic. The pharmacy across the street had both the
antibiotic and the Pedialyte in stock. My son spent two years in a
fraternity so was able to chug the first liter bottle of Pedialyte in one
long gulp. My tuition dollars at work! Our medical issues behind us, we
looked for an interesting route to get us to US-12. We settled on US-195
which was anticlimactic after the spectacular WA-20 but not a bad road none
the less.
At Lewiston ID we picked up US-12, a wonderful motorcycle road that
following the bank of Clearwater River as it ascends to the Continental
Divide at Lolo Pass, the border of Montana and Idaho. We stopped for the
obligatory photo (Sharp Curves Next 130 Miles) then began S-curving our way
up the gentle grade, never more than a fly-cast from the Clearwater. We
stopped for the night at one of my favorite overnight spots, the Lochsha
Lodge. We elected to stay in a "rustic" cabin, it had no running water but
the bathhouse was close.
In the morning my son wanted to lead with me following and filming using the
Go Pro camera we just bought for the trip. I noted that I had never failed
to see big game in the 10 or so miles that separated us from Lolo Pass and
that he should be VERY cautious, covering the brake lever and riding MOST
conservatively. I mentioned that we had already visited the hospital once
on this trip and had no desire for a return engagement!
Just a few miles short of Lolo Pass the Go Pro video camera on my WeeStrom
captured my son threshold braking to avoid a grizzly bear that decided that
NOW was the time to get to the other side of the road. The griz scrambled
up a steep talus slope, sending baby-head sized rocks tumbling down the
slope onto the road. We stopped at Lolo Summit to view the video and
congratulate ourselves for taking the time to have my son practice threshold
braking on the KLR before we began the trip. He had just a thousand miles
of riding experience with only 500 miles on the KLR. But his natural
athleticism, following instructions, and the threshold braking practice came
together just when we needed a break, or more correctly a brake.
At the town of Lolo we turned south on US93 to Lost Trail Pass then took
Montana 49 east over Chief Joseph Pass toward the Big Hole National
Battlefield. We stopped at the National Battlefield and listened to a Park
Ranger, a full-blood Nez Pierce; recount the story of the massacre Nez
Pierce women and children at the hands of US Calvary and irregular
volunteers. I bought my son a "Passport to Your National Parks', a
passport-sized binder to record his visits to sites administered by the
National Park system. I have been using such a Passport to record a decade
worth of motorcycle-borne visits to Park sites and I hope that he will
continue the tradition. Big Hole National Battlefield is worth a stop; those
that fail to study history are truly condemned to repeat it.
At Wisdom, MT after a stop for lunch we turned south on MT 278 and stayed on
278 to Dillon. At Dillon I usually pick up the (dirt) Blacktail Road and
run that to Yellowstone National Park. But the weather was looking like
rain and I had experienced the Blacktail Road in deluge a couple of times
before and had no desire for a repeat engagement on a Tourance-shod
WeeStrom. Imagine axle-deep clay in the middle of nowhere with a gale
force wind blowing the pouring rain parallel to the ground and you are
close. Discretion being the better part of valor, we took MT287 into Ennis
where we stopped for pictures next to the many-times-life-size statue of a
fly fisherman in the center of town. Fly fishing is the economic lifeblood
of this part of Montana and our fly rods and wade shoes marked us as
valuable contributors to the local economy to all that saw us on the bikes.
We took US 287 south out of Dillon into Yellowstone National Park where a
pleasant Park Ranger confirmed what I had earlier predicted: all the park
campsites were full. We left the park and camped instead on Rainbow Point
on Hebgen Lake in the National Forest, ten or so miles back north from the
national park entrance.
After breakfast in the morning we re-entered Yellowstone NP at West Glacier
and ran northeast to the Cooke City exit of the park picking up US 212 over
Beartooth Pass, reentering Montana. Yes the Tail of The Dragon in NC *is*
curvy but The Dragon is just a dozen miles long. Beartooth Pass is nearly a
hundred miles of equally tight twisties combined with top-of-the-world
scenery.
Our friends were waiting on the Boulder River for us so at Columbus, MT we
reluctantly hit I-90 west into Big Timber where we picked up the Boulder
River Road and rode south to our fishing spot. After four days of
spectacular catch-and -release fishing we bid goodbye and headed for home.
My son had flight to catch to Durham, NC to begin his graduate school so we
really didn't have time to repeat our ramble on the homebound leg of the
trip. So we decided to grit it out and stay on I-90 westbound into
Ritzville, WA where we took US195 south to WA 26, WA26 west to WA24 and
WA24 west to US-12. US-12 took us north to WA-133 which we took north into
Mount Rainier National Park where we picked up WA-410. From WA-410 we took
a variety of country roads from farm country into suburbia and home.
My son summed up the trip as follows:
Gas for 2300 miles $212
New Front Tire: $107
Time spent on a motorcycle trip with your Dad: Priceless.
GPS track here:
http://johnbiccum.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Montana-trip-with-B/25318657_KMF4J
2#!i=2081297699
http://johnbiccum.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Montana-trip-with-B/25318657_KMF4
J2#!i=2081297699&k=5RkvbfB> &k=5RkvbfB
Now that I have access to a minty KLR in Durham, NC it's time to start
planning a Blue Ridge Parkway trip the for the next time work takes me to
the east coast. The Dragon awaits!
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